transporting pm in soil

chemphlegm · Mar 9, 2017

I use a dehumidifier to prevent pm. I dont use sprays.
it works, always has, for years and years even. removes a gallon or so a day of humidity year round here. set it and forget it, I never changed the settings I read in the grow bible. without it 'd have pm no matter what spray s or washes I used, the shit would still be present on my weed, along with those nasty fungicides. I hate inferior weed too, kind of a pot snob, I hate the taste of sprays, and plant losses, plant issues even. I dont buy moldy fruit, I discard moldy strawberries from the market, I dont eat them, or inhale them either. I pay extra or grow my own veggies/fruit to be semi assured no sprays were used(good luck with that)

I know weed is expensive, and maybe a dehuey is too, but its an easy choice, when compared to the cost of a new lung

chemphlegm · Mar 9, 2017

esh dov ets said:
anybody know if pm persists in or on soil?
i just want to know how long it lasts on soil. or if i can kill it from the soil without baking it?

dude, its in all soil, in all air, all around you. when you abuse your grow space without proper controls it thrives, often right on the sweet overfed yummiest leaves of marijuana. lower your humidity or gtfo. lol(just kidding, but really)

esh dov ets · Mar 9, 2017

chemphlegm said:
dude, its in all soil, in all air, all around you. when you abuse your grow space without proper controls it thrives, often right on the sweet overfed yummiest leaves of marijuana. lower your humidity or gtfo. lol(just kidding, but really)

how come i have grown in the same conditions but never had it b4? also didn't have it until i brought in one clone and a day later left clothes contaminated with pm from grapes near my grow.
it's because my grow was contaminated not because it's ever present. it thrives in the same conditions as cannabis. if it was ever present every one would have to fight it all the time. i should keep it below 50 rh for other molds and diseases and it won't hurt for pm but is not the cure. thanks though.

esh dov ets · Mar 9, 2017

Budley Doright said:
I honestly think it's everywhere , I have strains that never get it (outdoors) and have grown others that are covered so I tend to stop using those. I have never had it indoors touch wood. My veggy garden zucchini get it every year and I spray with milk and baking soda that seems to knock it down but not out.

yea milk has scientific benefit but i won't fuck with it baking soda not so much. i have one strain thats my own cross that doesn't get but a spot after all the rest are bad. it's resistant. the gsc is some what resistant but the one it started with and the next one get it bad one in all stages one shows up after harvest. i will not use the last to as the where average anyway.

it's on the wind often especially in certain conditions in certain areas but chances are you are not bringing in enough viable spores or infected plants which is why you don't get it indoors. @chemphlegm same

Budley Doright · Mar 9, 2017

esh dov ets said:
yea milk has scientific benefit but i won't fuck with it baking soda not so much. i have one strain thats my own cross that doesn't get but a spot after all the rest are bad. it's resistant. the gsc is some what resistant but the one it started with and the next one get it bad one in all stages one shows up after harvest. i will not use the last to as the where average anyway.

it's on the wind often especially in certain conditions in certain areas but chances are you are not bringing in enough viable spores or infected plants which is why you don't get it indoors. @chemphlegm same

Pretty sure it's not the fact that I don't bring spores in as the veggy garden is 50' away and I use continuos intake. I do believe that some strains are prone to it as well as keeping the room at optimal conditions or leaning on the dry side. Touch wood most of my strains seem to be some what resistant. High temps and humidity are the things that I strive to control which is not hard where I am using passive controls. I also limit my indoor to the cooler 8 months of the year

.

chemphlegm · Mar 10, 2017

esh dov ets said:
how come i have grown in the same conditions but never had it b4? also didn't have it until i brought in one clone and a day later left clothes contaminated with pm from grapes near my grow.
it's because my grow was contaminated not because it's ever present. it thrives in the same conditions as cannabis. if it was ever present every one would have to fight it all the time. i should keep it below 50 rh for other molds and diseases and it won't hurt for pm but is not the cure. thanks though.

if thats true then one pm plant in the room would infect EVERY plant in the room. mold is ever present, trust me. your infected plants are susceptible is all. PM will not thrive in proper growing conditions, like under 50% RH, we all know this by now. sorry this happened to you

esh dov ets · Mar 10, 2017

chemphlegm said:
if thats true then one pm plant in the room would infect EVERY plant in the room. mold is ever present, trust me. your infected plants are susceptible is all. PM will not thrive in proper growing conditions, like under 50% RH, we all know this by now. sorry this happened to you

Maybe i can find the links. Pm growth conditions.. there is a risk index ... When it's over 100 for 24 hours it dies when it's cooler then 60 f or the rh in lower then then 40 the risk is low almost none. This is for pm on grapes where some pm servives in the area and when the index goes back in range pm has to be fought. But you can kill it in soil filter your air intake not bring it in by your clothes and or you can keep the index low. In my case i should keep the index lower however my plants and area already has it so lowering the index will only slow it and stave it off a little and my buds will be ruined. I have to start over. I wish i could use sulfur.

Tangerine_ · Mar 10, 2017

The one and only time I had a bout of PM was the result of bringing in an already infected clone. (Critical Hog)
Every plant that came into contact with the CHs leaves became infected - with the exception of my Headband. I battled and fought that shit with everything I had. Finally, I came to the realization that I needed to nix everything and start over. I managed to bring the lightly affected plants to harvest with the help of Green Cure and knocking down the RH to 30%. Everything else (vegging clones an established plants) went straight to the fire pit. I scrubbed down hard surfaces with Tilex, and sprayed everything else down with h202. That was about 2yrs ago and I've been PM free since.
Unfortunately esh, I think you're right. Follow your instincts and start over with a clean room and fresh PM free clones or start new seeds. GL...I feel for ya....I really do.

Edited to add;

I see your concern is re-using your soil. I think you'll be fine as long as you treat it and leave it for a bit. I make it a point to not add any infected plant material to my compost but the soil I would definitely re-use. I may be overly cautious but for indoor cultivation you just cant be too careful. I have to treat areas around my home for PM as well. I live on the Northeast coastline and its plentiful here. Especially when the cold damp nights come in late summer.

chemphlegm · Mar 10, 2017

all growing soil/compost/grow pots are chocked full of powdery mildews, many fungi and molds live in it. good luck killing fungus in the soil web. I water washed off a tray of pm infected mj vegging in my greenhouse and put them in my sealed veg room. The pm has never been seen in my veg room, although it existed soon as I had dirt growing plants. NO plants here have been infected.

get advice from those who have it?
get advice from those who do not?

my wifes friends avoid us too when they're having marital problems, (we married 30+) they flock to the others in the divorce circle for their marriage advice, funny shit

carry on.

overdose420 · Mar 10, 2017

Here you go..ive had my battles with PM. TO HELL WITH IT! So hoping you have plants in veg still.. do what you have to do to bring humidity to a 40 to 60% prefer 50%. Go to the store and find Spectracide Fungicide (Immunox) and a 2oz bottle of Transport[both usually found at grow shop...] mix one oz (Immunox) and 2 oz bottle of Transport[helps with the folliar application as a wetting agent and allows you to spray plants with the lights on] to a gallon of distilled water and spray plants untill it completely wets your plants and drips off the leaves.. do this 2wice within 10 days <thats it>.. "what spores!" It kills the spores and stops pm from spreading. Ive tried a lot of other products and everything else just keeps it at bay untill you get careless and forget to treat. Immunox is the shit!!! You want to be done with it.. fix your environment and apply like i said.. everyone has their opinions.. and i respect that. Thats how i learned. The most important thing to a remedy is learning to prevent it in the first place. If your in flower and you just wanna save your crop.. use serenade like your life depends on it. And let the battle be enough for you to work harder at preventing it in the future..****dont use immunox on flowering plants****hope my ideas help someone. I speak from experience as a home growet as well as a commercial grower for a collective taking care of thousands of plants. Grow well..... i use immunox for every new plant i bring ito the garden... good luck

overdose420 · Mar 10, 2017

Indacouch said:
Sorry didn't see this post .....as far as I know and have read .....PM is associated with certain plants themselves/tissue ....

Pm is systemic. It is in the stem.. if it shows itself as spots on the leaf its slightly advanced. It can be spread to any strain. Some plants are very resistant but can very well be infected. To cure a vegging plant is easy if you do it right.
[[Immunox/Transport]] 2wice in 10 days and you should be good to go...

Tangerine_ · Mar 10, 2017

overdose420 said:
Pm is systemic. It is in the stem.. if it shows itself as spots on the leaf its slightly advanced. It can be spread to any strain. Some plants are very resistant but can very well be infected. To cure a vegging plant is easy if you do it right.
[[Immunox/Transport]] 2wice in 10 days and you should be good to go...

Exactly. PM is systemic and its a generic term that refers to a group of related fungi that are plant-specific and share common symptoms. The PM that can infect ornamentals will not necessarily spread to your vegetable garden or vise versa. However, it does spread easily from plant to plant from active spores. Understanding the difference is important.

The hyphae rapidly produce conidium, or asexual spores. This does NOT happen in a healthy rhizosphere, so advising someone with an active infection to treat their soil with beneficial microbes is just good gardening practice. PM is probably one of the most common nuisances that gardeners must always be proactive against. (obviously not placing clones from outside sources into quarantine would go against this) My point....I don't know a seasoned gardener that hasn't had to deal with pests or pathogens at some point. Knowing what do in the event of an infection is key to being successful...though this requires that one must always be a "student" no matter how long they've been at it. Dumbass moves (always quarantine, lol) are part of the learning process, however, unforeseen circumstances that are beyond control do occur. Best to be prepared with the correct knowledge.

Also, many of us keep "cuts" and over time and they lose vigor and resistance. I still have my Headband cut. It proved to be very hardy and pathogen/pest resistant. The others not so much even though I know I could have taken fresh cuttings and treated them. Its just not worth the chance of a re-infection.

Just my humble opinion.

Johnhorror · Mar 12, 2017

Tangerine_ said:
Exactly. PM is systemic and its a generic term that refers to a group of related fungi that are plant-specific and share common symptoms. The PM that can infect ornamentals will not necessarily spread to your vegetable garden or vise versa. However, it does spread easily from plant to plant from active spores. Understanding the difference is important.

The hyphae rapidly produce conidium, or asexual spores. This does NOT happen in a healthy rhizosphere, so advising someone with an active infection to treat their soil with beneficial microbes is just good gardening practice. PM is probably one of the most common nuisances that gardeners must always be proactive against. (obviously not placing clones from outside sources into quarantine would go against this) My point....I don't know a seasoned gardener that hasn't had to deal with pests or pathogens at some point. Knowing what do in the event of an infection is key to being successful...though this requires that one must always be a "student" no matter how long they've been at it. Dumbass moves (always quarantine, lol) are part of the learning process, however, unforeseen circumstances that are beyond control do occur. Best to be prepared with the correct knowledge.

Also, many of us keep "cuts" and over time and they lose vigor and resistance. I still have my Headband cut. It proved to be very hardy and pathogen/pest resistant. The others not so much even though I know I could have taken fresh cuttings and treated them. Its just not worth the chance of a re-infection.

Just my humble opinion.

If I could ask a question on PM. I have a few strains that are in the 5th week of flowering and have been battling PM since right before I put into flowering, I don't get much only on a few leaves and as soon as I see it I mix up 1.5-2 tablespoons of baking soda to my tap water to bring ph past 10. Anyways it seems the PM comes back at least once a week then I spray with solution and its gone, or at last looks to be to the naked eye.my question is that I'm wondering if the baking soda is going to affect the buds that are growing and if I am keeping it under control using this method do you think it will suffice until a few days before harvest? There is probably about 5-6 weeks left till harv

Johnhorror · Mar 12, 2017

Johnhorror said:
If I could ask a question on PM. I have a few strains that are in the 5th week of flowering and have been battling PM since right before I put into flowering, I don't get much only on a few leaves and as soon as I see it I mix up 1.5-2 tablespoons of baking soda to my tap water to bring ph past 10. Anyways it seems the PM comes back at least once a week then I spray with solution and its gone, or at last looks to be to the naked eye.my question is that I'm wondering if the baking soda is going to affect the buds that are growing and if I am keeping it under control using this method do you think it will suffice until a few days before harvest? There is probably about 5-6 weeks left till harv

I believe because of the PM is in my in my basement my humidity and my flower tent is less than 40% I have used air conditioning filters for my Intake air next one I will use HEPA filters hopefully this will fix the problem after of course I clean the shit out of my tents. My strains are 3 white widows, 3 cbdutch treat, 4 Pineapple Express, and 1 chocadilli. my conditions are 2000watt raptors with luminik ballast, 5x10x6.5 tent , a awesome ass homemade 10 gallon carbon filter, two 5x5 scrog nets, 5 gallon smart pots, two 4" clip fans and two six inch stationary fans, a digital heater for when lights go off set at 74*, a hurricane 8inch exhaust fan. plants look awesome except when I see a bit of powdery mildew on them each week it is only on a few leaves usually near the intake and near the exhaust this is what Leads me to think that The powdery mildew is coming in from my basement.any help or constructive criticism him would be appreciated thank you

Tangerine_ · Mar 12, 2017

I'm not so sure its coming "in" from your basement. I think the "conditions" near your intake/exhaust are creating the perfect environment for it to kick up. The plants you see with spots are already infected. PM is systemic, meaning its "inside" of the plant. It will always be inside of those plants now...even the clones you take. Depending on severity, if it were me, I'd treat affected plants with this http://www.greencure.net/ (careful not get on flowers) and drop the humidity as low as possible, keep the temps up and hope for the best. PM will thrive in the right conditions, especially if the plants are weakened by stressors. Once harvested, you could also do a H2o2 bath. I wouldn't distribute it either without full disclosure.

Los Reefersaurus · Mar 12, 2017

Have you taken you fans apart to see what lurks within?Fans can be a source of pathogens as well

Johnhorror · Mar 12, 2017

Los Reefersaurus said:
Have you taken you fans apart to see what lurks within?Fans can be a source of pathogens as well

Fans where brand new and this is happing in my veg tent as well

overdose420 · Mar 12, 2017

Greencure is a good one to try.. ive had it work.. and ive had it fail.. but you can use the green cure into flowering. .id do it asap if I were you 5 weeks into flower. The h202 bath after harvest works too but your flower wont be nearly as potent as it should be. Next time your dealing with plants in veg that have powder mold.. dont flip them to flower untill your almost certain its gone. If you have pm weekly during your whole flower period.. i can almost guarantee your going to have some issues with your final product. You can beat the nasty stuff... but try to dobit before you flower.......

overdose420 · Mar 12, 2017

Spectracide (immunox)@1 oz per gallon in vegative stage 2wice in 10 days.. and it will systemicly kill your powered mildew issue accompanied by correcting your environmental issues. For best results in immunox application.. mix with Transport foliar at 1-2 oz per gallon. And feel safe applying to plants during lights on. Hopebive helped someone.

esh dov ets · Mar 13, 2017

overdose420 said:
Here you go..ive had my battles with PM. TO HELL WITH IT! So hoping you have plants in veg still.. do what you have to do to bring humidity to a 40 to 60% prefer 50%. Go to the store and find Spectracide Fungicide (Immunox) and a 2oz bottle of Transport[both usually found at grow shop...] mix one oz (Immunox) and 2 oz bottle of Transport[helps with the folliar application as a wetting agent and allows you to spray plants with the lights on] to a gallon of distilled water and spray plants untill it completely wets your plants and drips off the leaves.. do this 2wice within 10 days <thats it>.. "what spores!" It kills the spores and stops pm from spreading. Ive tried a lot of other products and everything else just keeps it at bay untill you get careless and forget to treat. Immunox is the shit!!! You want to be done with it.. fix your environment and apply like i said.. everyone has their opinions.. and i respect that. Thats how i learned. The most important thing to a remedy is learning to prevent it in the first place. If your in flower and you just wanna save your crop.. use serenade like your life depends on it. And let the battle be enough for you to work harder at preventing it in the future..****dont use immunox on flowering plants****hope my ideas help someone. I speak from experience as a home growet as well as a commercial grower for a collective taking care of thousands of plants. Grow well..... i use immunox for every new plant i bring ito the garden... good luck

we are having low humidity lately; 26 -46 usually around 30 in the grow. i skipped one application of em one and it's back humidity control is not the tits. i won't use anything i wouldn't smoke so fuck those products man. thanks. i see there is someone else experiencing pm. i recommend sulfur or baring that like in my case starting over and cleaning and don't go throwing shit from walmart on them.

transporting pm in soil

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