wallywonks
Well-Known Member
Harvest window is opening
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Trichromes everywhere omg starting to Amber
- Thread starter wallywonks
- Start date
twentyeight.threefive
Well-Known Member
Trichomes aren't the best way to determine when the plant is ready.
First you're checking trichomes on sugar leaves and those amber faster than the buds.
Second you can see physical damage to surrounding trichomes and it's possible the amber ones have sustained slight damage which will cause early ambering as well.
Your plant has a couple weeks left and looks great.
First you're checking trichomes on sugar leaves and those amber faster than the buds.
Second you can see physical damage to surrounding trichomes and it's possible the amber ones have sustained slight damage which will cause early ambering as well.
Your plant has a couple weeks left and looks great.
PopAndSonGrows
Well-Known Member
Don't scope your top buds. Scope something about halfway down the plant, and facing inward. This area has less degraded and/or damaged trichomes.
wallywonks
Well-Known Member
Thanks. Yeh those are the 8 wk flower skunks. I want them amber and fattening up a little more.
The shots are from calyxs with pistils. I tried to avoid shots from sugar leaves. The calyxs are turning purple too. Night Temps 68 to 70F
wallywonks
Well-Known Member
Interesting I was wondering which area to check trichomes. The top ones have 1 calyx still throwing out white. The one skunk she's 50/50 red-brown to white pistils but the calyxs are swelling nicely. These indicas supposed to ripen faster than the White widow autos that are on week 11 to 12 flower. They started showing amber trichromes this week
wallywonks
Well-Known Member
I'll post ya some shots. The 2 white widows got some light and heat stress cause I turned humidity down to 35 too early in flower and light up to 100%. Mars hydro ts3000 led
PopAndSonGrows
Well-Known Member
Sorry to thread jack but DO IT, they're great for the "floppy" plants. Anything that goes outside the cage you can kinda "lasso" to the cage if needed. Super helpful.
PopAndSonGrows
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't hate harvesting any of that but I'm 100% certain you're about to be met with "wait 1 or 2 weeks". They're probably right.
wallywonks
Well-Known Member
Yeah the tomato cages are nice. I waited till they were transplanted and grew to the first ring before inserting them. It's useful to coral the branches and space them out especially with the bamboo stake about 2 to 3 in from the main stem. I tied each bud branch to space them for light to reach mid to lower buds and support them. Defoliated below halfway over time and the top leaves covering the middle. I tried to leave 2 fan leaves on each branch so it can make energy to fatten the buds more.
Its my first grow and I'm happy with it. I'm just excited to harvest, trim and find out the weight.
I got 4 purple kush growing in the closet waiting to go into the tent. 2 Bubbleponic DWC and 2 organic soil for them. Using 2 different nute brands for the DWC. So far the soil ones are bigger and nicer looking. Just doing the hydro to see if I like it or not and for comparison. Using GH Maxibloom Lucas formula on one and Element Nutrients on the other.
NanoGadget
Well-Known Member
soil should never outperform hydro for growth rates. you may want to ask around in the hydro section for tips and pointers. insane growth rates are one of the defining characteristics of hydroponics and I'd guess you need to dial some things in.
wallywonks
Well-Known Member
I cut half a side branch off the one beat up white widow so I could use my USB microscope to check the trichromes. The jeweler loupe sucks lol. Sometimes my phone can take good shots but it's complicated camera keeps messing up when I try to zoom. It gave me 11g wet dried to 3 grams. It's curing now in a jar. Smells nice. Looks good too. Was also a test run on trimming. Think I got it figured out. Sticky fingers though lol. I made a tiny hash ball put in my grinder. Used peanut butter to get rest off. Works on pine tree sap. It's a miracle remedy for sticky sap removal
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wallywonks
Well-Known Member
Yeah Im new to growing a hydro setup. But I used to have vegetable gardens when I was a teenager.
So Im familiar with soil growing but not really container growing but the fabric pots work awesome for not overwatering and air pruning roots.
Yeh I have a setup for RDWC already premade with a 20 gal reservoir. Im also interested in hempy buckets too. I got a huge bag of perlite.
I think it may be because of the rapid rooters. There was a root just starting to come down into the one that looks yellower. I also raised the Giixer LED lights up a few inches in case it light burn. I used those for my current grow in the beginning and had to raise them cause of light burn.
I have the pH steady between 5.8 and 6.0. Took 2 days for it to stop going from 5.5 to 6.5. So I am learning about dealing with pH fluctuations in DWC in 5 gallon buckets. I also have Citric Acid and Potassium Bicarbonate which are really strong. Only a little tiny bit at a time moves pH.
The ppms were 425 last time i checked. 177 of them from the tap water. Using light nutes in the water for seedlings. Cotyledons still green.
Other plant already has roots in the water. Dropped water level 1 inch below the pots earlier today. Using a GH air pump supposed to be one of the best with replaceable diaphragms.
I read somewhere I think that in DWC the seedlings start slow until they hit the water below. Then it starts to pick up fast.
So we will see soon. Temp and Humidity is pretty close to where it needs to be. 60-70% humidity and 75-77F.
Water temps are 73F. I put 6ml Hydroguard in the DWC buckets. I also have UC Roots in case I decide to go sterile.
Going to try to go beneficial and the Element Nutrient line has Myco+ supposed to be a root booster use until flower. They have a feeding schedule for their line on the bag. Has a Bloom Booster as well in their line.
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Get your temp up for led. 80-82f. You will see much faster growth. I know I did.
75-77 is great for HID lights. As the IR gets your plants warmer
xtsho
Well-Known Member
It never fails. Someone posts some microscope pics of some amber trichomes thinking their plants are ready. When they show pics of the entire plant you see a plant that's not ready.
Some of us don't even bother looking at trichomes. Too many variables make it unreliable. I could care less what a bunch of websites ran by stoners say about trichomes.
That wasn't ready.
Some of us don't even bother looking at trichomes. Too many variables make it unreliable. I could care less what a bunch of websites ran by stoners say about trichomes.
wallywonks
Well-Known Member
Thanks for your input. This my first grow. I have experience growing in ground vegetable gardens as a teenager. I've never grown flowers or trees.
So yes im a newb. I've read so many forums, soil recipes, seed bank sites, and cannabis websites to try to collaborate the info. Even still hard to hammer down the info. Even Temps and humidity differ a bit. I've seen the VPD stuff which was interesting.
So now I know why my WW Autos got heat stress and dried curling up leaves. The Autos ill say are more touchy than the photo ones I grew. Light Temps nutes all of it. So I'll never grow Autos with photos again. Will save alot of adjusting.
Hydro is completely new. I'm making the pH 5.5 or 5.8 and letting it go up to 6.2 to 6.4 before I add a tiny bit of Citric acid. So this is a learning experience. So far I love organic soil so we'll see. No pH stuff just make good living soil plant and water and nail down the environmental and watch the plants.
I just transplanted the 2 purple kush today in the grow closet. One is Basic soil mix using 20% peatmoss 20% coco 20% combined rabbit shit and worm shit. Perlite 40 %. 1c Dolomite Lime. Then 1/2c Dr Earth tomato veg ferts blended in top 4 inches. Wait 1 week then following Dr Earth's expert feeding schedule .
Other one is Coots recipe 2c kelp meal 1c neem seed meal 1c 50/50 shrimp and crab meal. Rock dust 2c basalt dust 1cup perfect lime recipe 1c oyster shell flour and 1 cup gypsum dust. It has 40% peatmoss 20% pumice 10% perlite grade 3 15%worm shit 15% rabbit shit. The rabbit shit I used a food processor to grind up the pellets to dust then some medium grade and then couple quarts whole pellet shit.
So going to compare Dr Earth ferts to a Coots organic soil mix.
