Two weeks into grow - still concerned

What lights are you using?

Nevermind I blew through that one didn't read it all the way. Imo 6 in. Is to high to have your cfls. 2-3 is ideal, at least that's what I found out when growing with cfls. I also would not start nuting at week 1 something is wrong and we will all do our best to help you but imo adding more variables right now is probably not going to make it any easier. Most plants start getting nutes at week two at the very earliest. I waited almost a month and they came out okay. How are you checking your waters ph cuz it def looks like some kind of burn.

fenderburn84 said:

What lights are you using?

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· [FONT=&quot]6 - 100w equivalent CFLs[/FONT]

^^ He already said that...within 1-2" from the plant...

Ok so you are using unnuted promix, and your cotyledons are yellow...yes its time for nutes...also your humidity is REALLY low...after you water throw a plastic ziplock bag over the top of the cup, and you can move the lights to 4"+ away as a baby doesn't need 6 lights that close As it gets larger you can start moving em in. But yeah get that RH up on the plant and start giving it 1/4 strength nutes and it should pull through

Also are you still keeping them in a humidity dome? Young girls love it warm and wet even a cut pop bottle will work.

fenderburn84 said:

Nevermind I blew through that one didn't read it all the way. Imo 6 in. Is to high to have your cfls. 2-3 is ideal, at least that's what I found out when growing with cfls. I also would not start nuting at week 1 something is wrong and we will all do our best to help you but imo adding more variables right now is probably not going to make it any easier. Most plants start getting nutes at week two at the very earliest. I waited almost a month and they came out okay. How are you checking your waters ph cuz it def looks like some kind of burn.

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he already had the lights 1-2" away as his details said...hes using a nutritionless soil mixture, he needs to add nutes now as the cotyledons are yellow and his plant is pulling nutrients from his leaves now to stay alive(the yellowing at the tips)

With nothing but the Pics, I'd say you need some neuts in, looks like general defs in N, S and possibly P. If the soil you use has no ferts in it to start (some don't, check for feeding instructions or some such on your bag), then you need neuts as soon as the ones in the seed run out, which is about the 1st or 2nd set of leaves.

Try taking your veg neuts, watering them down to 1/2 or 1/4 strength and giving your plants a bit of food. Keep it week to avoid over feeding such a young plant tho.

My bad on not reading the whole thing I was litteraly on the shutter waking up my bad.

fenderburn84 said:

My bad on not reading the whole thing I was litteraly on the shutter waking up my bad.

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*passes the coffee*

Get rid of the distilled water. Its ok for cloning but a poor choice for growing.

watchhowIdoit said:

Get rid of the distilled water. Its ok for cloning but a poor choice for growing.

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Not if your tap/well water is utter crap

Many thanx all! I introduced humidity dome today (zip lock bag) and will prep 1/4 strength nutes for application tomorrow. My grow medium (Promix) is definitely without nutes - bag directions state "..... add fertilizer after 7 days". I'm checking water ph with electronic ph meter (can't recall brand right now) and adjusted ph using vinegar to approx ph 6.5.

Since "some type of burn" was suggested as cause for plant's appearance, anyone have thoughts on backing away from my ph adjusted water and just using my tap water (non-chlorinated well water; ph of approx 8.2)?

My well water is 250-275ppm and pH 7.8-8.0 and works fine for me. I dont pH anything, just add nutes and water. no matter what pH you adjust your feeding too within 30 minutes or so of applying it will buffer to the mediums pH anyways. Dolomite lime and worm castings in the mix are a growers best friends...

I second the notion of dolomite lime and worm castings Especially the lime...mix up about a 1/4 cup per 2-3gallons into the promix and it will help keep your PH where it needs to be, also adds calcium and magnesium...you wont have to really worry about your water PH at that point as its the soil PH that is what should be in the 6.5 area, not the water you are putting into it...if you overwater it constantly then you'll cause the PH of the soil to drift, but if you only water when needed it wont change all that much when its buffered with lime.

More good advice- much appreciated mates!

when u say your checking the hole , well of course the soil near the hole is going to be dry, your overwatering. when u water it, try to just water within 1in by the roots are, dont water the whole cup.

just because its dry right by the hole doesnt mean your allowing it to dry out all around/near the roots

if u got 1 plant left, u only need 1 cfl, keep it farther away than 2-3 inches, a good way to test heat problems is to put back the back of your hand up by the plant and feel how much heat the plant is getting, The back of your hand will be more sensitive. but you want the plant to stretch to the light so having it 2-3 inches away is too close. quit fucking with it and maybe it will get better, seems like u keep changing up the setup/light distance/overwatering/etc. Let the damn thing dry completely, and when u water it, only water it a little bit so that the hole cup doesnt get watered. glug a lil big righ on the stem so that only near the roots get water and not the whole cup.

U can give it small nutes if u want, but i.m.h.o seems more like basic problems like light distance,overwatering, etc... ima go read up on your post again to see if i can help anymore

after looking at your pics again, i still come to the conclusion of your overwatering. Dont water the whole cup, just water the dirty around the nuts(which is only a glug or two on the root). You want the plant to stretch and reach for that dry dirt, and u want the plant to reach for the light, so leave one 100w light on and keep it atleast a foot away.

remember everytime you change something like light distance or something, the plant has to adjust to that. which equals more stress on your plant

bighomey said:

You want the plant to stretch and reach for that dry dirt, and u want the plant to reach for the light

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Neither of these two statements make any sense...

You want the plant roots to search out for water...they don't search and reach for dry dirt...if you water the outside of a pot as opposed to directly at the stem the water leaches back in towards the roots, but dries out quickly at the roots making the roots go outward and down to find the water.

You don't want your plant "reaching" for light...that's what causes stretching and a weaker stem...you want tight node spacing and a bushier plant which is conducive to keeping a light closer to the plant