Uncle Bens Dyna Grow Love

tree king said:

homebrewer, quick question for you. you said you always add grow with the bloom to prevent yellowing but have you ever just tried using only the bloom and raise the ppm higher? i remember you said you dont like going above 600 ppm but is it possible that going to 7-800 ppm will fix the problem of the yellowing when using bloom only? it just makes it alot more complicated when your using 2 bottles you know

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I've used bloom and protekt only in flower and the plants stayed green. BUT, I normally use magpro in bloom so I feel like I need to add grow to that mix to even out the N-to-P ratio if that makes sense.

Also, I feed between 1 and 1.2 EC in flower which is around 750-900ppm (442 scale). I view N, P, K, Ca and Mg as a balancing act and the gauge is the color of my leaves. I've reached a balance and it was easy to find in hydro. In promix, I just go 50/50 with grow and bloom and protekt is added first to balance the pH. It works really well with RO but my 220+ppm tap water gave me issues no matter what food I was using. Base water can be a killer if it's too hard.

o ok i didnt know you were able to keep them green without the grow. you said using bloom and protekt but the protekt doesnt have any nutes in it correct? if not than im guessing that would be the same if i used bloom by itself what it comes to plants not yellowing.

what would your magpro to bloom ratio be if you only used bloom homebrewer? do you use the magpro every week of flower?

tree king said:

o ok i didnt know you were able to keep them green without the grow. you said using bloom and protekt but the protekt doesnt have any nutes in it correct? if not than im guessing that would be the same if i used bloom by itself what it comes to plants not yellowing.

what would your magpro to bloom ratio be if you only used bloom homebrewer? do you use the magpro every week of flower?

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Using bloom by itself in the dirt gives me a pH in the 4's unless you've adjusted it. Protekt is 0-0-3, potassium silicate I believe and it balances my pH.

I don't use magpro in the dirt and I would not use magpro and bloom only, just too much P. In hydro, I use magpro every week but I do not use magpro in the dirt.

sorry about that homebrewer all my questions were related to hydro. im trying to get the ratio that you would use for bloom and magpro

also that 750-900ppm in flower that you use, does that include your tap water? im guessing yes right? when i was talkin about you using 600 tds (ec x 500) before i was talkin about nutes only minus the tap so it looks i was pretty close to what your doing. tell you the truth if that includes the tap water than that seems like some very light feeding. curious to know

bump..........

tree king said:

sorry about that homebrewer all my questions were related to hydro. im trying to get the ratio that you would use for bloom and magpro

also that 750-900ppm in flower that you use, does that include your tap water? im guessing yes right? when i was talkin about you using 600 tds (ec x 500) before i was talkin about nutes only minus the tap so it looks i was pretty close to what your doing. tell you the truth if that includes the tap water than that seems like some very light feeding. curious to know

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I use RO water but if I used tap, i would include the ppm of my tap water in that 750-900ppm total.

homebrewer said:

I use RO water but if I used tap, i would include the ppm of my tap water in that 750-900ppm total.

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thanks for the info homebrewer. ok i see what your saying, you only use magpro if you use bloom and grow together, got it.

Why does the OP constantly refer to UB despite the fact the UB has not posted in this thread at all? Even when homebrewer replies, he referes to Hombrewer as Uncle Ben!

Anyway, I can't really think of a reason to use RO if your not using organic. MAybe if you have well water or abnormally hard water, but 90% of people have perfectly useable tap water. If your houseplants grow from nothing but your tap water, so willl your MJ.

Dyna-Gro is not the be all end all of nutrients. It is however highly affordable, highly concentrated (which makes it even more affordable), highly stable, and more complete than the vast majority of nutrients. On top of that there is no doubt in my mind that there is any imoral shilling coming from dyngro in any way whatsoever. I can't say the same for Advanced and many of the rest of them.

Your growing environment is going to have far more influence on your plants than your prefered nutrient. If you look at it with this perspective it makes sense to choose the cheapest, most complete, most concentrated, easiest to use and most stable product possible. Concentrate on the environmental parameters and you willl have far better results than worrying about food.

Im sure anyone could pick Dyna to bits all day, but overalll the pro's outweigh the con's...

He's calling him HB, for homebrewer, not UB for uncle ben.

My tap water is 380ppm. Burns seedlings and stuff. Good for cloning though

Coals said:

Anyway, I can't really think of a reason to use RO if your not using organic. MAybe if you have well water or abnormally hard water, but 90% of people have perfectly useable tap water. If your houseplants grow from nothing but your tap water, so willl your MJ.

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My tap is 230ppm and I know exactly what it's made up of since I had my water analyzed for my homebrews. I never make a batch of beer without cutting back my water with RO and adding back brewer's salts and that is essentially what I'm doing with RO, cutting everything back and adding what I believe to be a great balance of salts for the plants. When 80ppm is calcium, 4 ppm is magnesium, 90 ppm is chloride, you get the idea of why one would want to use something cleaner and more balanced for their plants.

shnkrmn said:

He's calling him HB, for homebrewer, not UB for uncle ben.

My tap water is 380ppm. Burns seedlings and stuff. Good for cloning though

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he uses the word "Ben" 3 times!

Well said Coals and HB! I also agree that Dynagro is one of the better companies and products out there.

One advantage of using RO over tap as there are to many to list here is that you start with a level playing field so to speak.

You can easily build a nutrient profile when starting from 0PPM with RO water.

Another thing to worry about with tap is that there can be all sorts of nasty bacteria in it (especially a danger with well water) that will screw you up or at least be fighting against your efforts if your using a hydroponic setup like DWC or RDWC.

Not to say that tap water cant be used, but if you do use it, then you need to get a water analysis done as suggested earlier so you are not "mixing blind" as the Pro's say! LOL! A TDS meter will tell you that there is x amount of solids in the water, but it will not tell you WHAT those solids are made of which is what you REALLY need to know in the first place.

Cheers!

Coals said:

he uses the word "Ben" 3 times!

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lol, You are right. I do not know what is up with that.

HB you say you run 750-900 ppm 442 scale?
I thought on your thread you said you use..7 is that the same as 442 scale?I have a .5 meter.
Ihave a cannastats conversion chart and it has .5 .7 & ec coversions but no 442 scale.
Im trying to follow your #s.Can you clarify?

Im ebb & flow 3 wks veg im getting yellowing like the other guys. i switched from an too.Icalled dg thier #s are on the .5 conversion.
I was running 600 ppm with grow pro tec & magpro.Still lower than dgs chart shows.Icut back to 520.

You said you run 400ppm in veg if your on .7 thats 286ppm .5 Iwas running alot higher than that with an. Didnt yellow till about 2-3wks 12/12.
The yellowings not that bad,I just need to find the sweet spot for dg.
Ill watch em and maybe cut back another 100ppm.

Whats your wisdom on this HB
Thanks

Im in the same boat as the op if i hadnt run across HB & UBs threads i was gonna switch to flora nova too but decided to go with dg.
They(dg) ought to give yall a cut just for all the peep on riu that have started buying dyna-gro.

PEACE BRO.

beans davis said:

HB you say you run 750-900 ppm 442 scale?
I thought on your thread you said you use..7 is that the same as 442 scale?I have a .5 meter.
Ihave a cannastats conversion chart and it has .5 .7 & ec coversions but no 442 scale.
Im trying to follow your #s.Can you clarify?

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442 is just another name for .7 conversion. 1.0-1.2 EC seems to work great for flower in my ebb and flow system.

Im ebb & flow 3 wks veg im getting yellowing like the other guys. i switched from an too.Icalled dg thier #s are on the .5 conversion.
I was running 600 ppm with grow pro tec & magpro.Still lower than dgs chart shows.Icut back to 520.

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I do not use magpro in veg because it's basically a bloom booster. Would you use overdrive or koolbloom in veg?

You're getting yellowing because you're over feeding. Even though you cut back your nutes, you're still over 1.0 EC. Why are you feeding little vegetative plants so much?

You said you run 400ppm in veg if your on .7 thats 286ppm .5 Iwas running alot higher than that with an. Didnt yellow till about 2-3wks 12/12.
The yellowings not that bad,I just need to find the sweet spot for dg.
Ill watch em and maybe cut back another 100ppm.

Whats your wisdom on this HB
Thanks

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I usually run 500ppm or about .7 EC in veg. DG doesn't require a 'sweet spot', it does need to be used correctly just like any other fertilizer .

H.B. the reason i was feeding that much in veg is the dg site feeding chart says wk 3 veg 990ppm .5 scale.
I use ro water, tap is 450-625ppm, im surounded by chemical plants.I used 1ml mag-pro gal. wk 3 veg per dg feeding chart recirc. system.
Ill cut back to 400ppm.
So if i follow dgs feeding chart Ill burn my shit up?That aint cool!
Thanks alot man.

Hey coolman, im interested in flora nova.What #s you running?You using any adatives?
My story is same as yours,had to stop b/c of kids.

What diff duz it make if coolman mistakenly puts ub or hb on his post?We all know what he is saying.
Some of us are new to this shit.No need to nit pic,hell i dont even know what 1/2 the shit on the key board duz.
My 10yr old nephew could beat the cum outa me on a pc.Didnt have pcs when i was growing up & very limited use in my chosen proffesion.

peace man
TJ

beans davis said:

So if i follow dgs feeding chart Ill burn my shit up?That aint cool!

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'Feeding charts' are just basic guidelines and the point of a TDS meter is to tailor your feeding program to your plants. My orchids aren't going to feed like my Ak47s and knowing the potency of each bottle allows me to feed each of my house plants or veggies properly regardless of my chosen nute brand. It is impossible for any basic feeding chart or 'back of the bottle' to be a happy medium for all plants.

beans i respect homebrewer alot but let me just tell you what happen with me cause it might help you out. i switched from a.n to dynagrow and my plants in veg started yellowing with leaves drooping at 310 tds .5 calc (water is 110 tds). i quickly switched back to a.n at the same tds and they werent getting better. as the week went on i slowly kept raising the tds 100 a day. i started realizing that the more nutes i gave them the better they started looking with leaves starting to stand up again. even when i got to 7-800 the plants were a tiny bit droopy. as soon as i hit around 900-1000 tds the plants began to look totally normal again. at that point i realized o my god i was just starving my plants like crazy! since the problem first started when switching to dynagrow i came to the conclusion that you have to keep the tds higher if your switching from a.n. im not saying you have to raise your ppm as high as me cause every strain is different but i think you should do what i did and let your reservoir speak for itself. top off your res and write down the ppm. after you flood the tray and top off again the ppm should be lower. if it ends up being higher than your overfeeding. so if you notice a problem with your plants that may be over or underfeeding that pay attention to what your res is doing. if your ppm's are going down after top off than its not overfeeding and thats a signal to up your nutes if your having a problem with your plants like yellowing or leaves sagging.

TK,I ran my AN 400-700 veg 800-1000 bloom with koolbloom.After using conni & alot of other AN shit$$$$ ifoud just sensi ab w/ kool bloom did best
and to be truthful i dont know if KB helped b/c i hadnt tried not using it.Ive used AN 4yrs i have to add more now than i did 4 yrs ago to get same ppm.
It use to be hotter.

I cut bk to 420 this morning flood x 2 1 plant i topped 2nd node was as yellow as a bright lemon yesterday now its green w/ a little yellow & burn on some leaves the other 6 are green.

I think HB was rite on the $$$$.I cut from 3 to 2 on the flood, think i was over watering too.

Thanks for the tips on the reservoir & trying to help me.feel free to help me out anytime you want,always trying to learn.