Uncle Ben's Gardening Tweeks and Pointers
- Thread starter Uncle Ben
- Start date
Jack in the Bud
Active Member
madcatter, deflator, doogleaf
I've eye balled the underside of quite a few of these leaves that have these spots with a 20x magnifier and I've seen no bugs. I've had both aphids and spider mites before so I know from first hand experience what they look like. I'm not exactly sure what a thrip looks like but I'm guessing I'd have seen them if they were present. I know I have a few fungus nats (I almost always do) but I don't think they're the cause of this. For the most part this silvery white spotting is not visible on the underside of the leaf.
The mystery continues.......
Jack
I've eye balled the underside of quite a few of these leaves that have these spots with a 20x magnifier and I've seen no bugs. I've had both aphids and spider mites before so I know from first hand experience what they look like. I'm not exactly sure what a thrip looks like but I'm guessing I'd have seen them if they were present. I know I have a few fungus nats (I almost always do) but I don't think they're the cause of this. For the most part this silvery white spotting is not visible on the underside of the leaf.
The mystery continues.......
Jack
Jack in the Bud
Active Member
UB,
Thanks. I'll do some more leaf inspection looking for a bug that could be causing this. I've already looked pretty diligently though and haven't found a trace of one.
Jack
swishatwista
Well-Known Member
if your organic neem oil should 4sure take care of them, gl
To UB, thanks for throwing the Scotts page w/ chart, do they have an organic line or is it all chemical based mediums?
and thanks again for this thread, very insightful and practical, thats what we like, giving creditablity to life, much thx
To UB, thanks for throwing the Scotts page w/ chart, do they have an organic line or is it all chemical based mediums?
and thanks again for this thread, very insightful and practical, thats what we like, giving creditablity to life, much thx
Jack in the Bud
Active Member
Guys,
I've done quite a bit more looking top and bottom of these leaves with a magnifying glass and haven't found bug one that could be responsible for causing this. I've also had several yellow sticky traps set out with these plants since the day the seeds went in the dirt and with the exception of several house flies and a few fungus nats there's no other bugs on them.
One thing I did notice on some of the leaves that have had this spotting on them the longest (and most severe) were micro-scopic black dots in the affected area on both sides of the leaf. These black dots are only visible on the older leaves that have had this splotching for a while. When this first becomes visible it's confined to the top side of the leaf and seems to be more of a stain on the surface of the leaf than actually damage in the leaf tissue it's self (like a bug bite would be).
My humidity has been staying a little higher than I would prefer. It's usually in the 60 to 70 % range but has gotten as high as 80 to 85 after watering. With that in mind I'm kind of leaning to this being some kind of plant disease (possibly fungal based) rather than an insect or nutritional problem.
What ever it is I don't think it's going to keep this coming harvest from being the best one I've ever had. Of course I've still got plenty of time to screw that up some other way.
Jack
"Nothing is fool proof to a sufficently talented fool".
I've done quite a bit more looking top and bottom of these leaves with a magnifying glass and haven't found bug one that could be responsible for causing this. I've also had several yellow sticky traps set out with these plants since the day the seeds went in the dirt and with the exception of several house flies and a few fungus nats there's no other bugs on them.
One thing I did notice on some of the leaves that have had this spotting on them the longest (and most severe) were micro-scopic black dots in the affected area on both sides of the leaf. These black dots are only visible on the older leaves that have had this splotching for a while. When this first becomes visible it's confined to the top side of the leaf and seems to be more of a stain on the surface of the leaf than actually damage in the leaf tissue it's self (like a bug bite would be).
My humidity has been staying a little higher than I would prefer. It's usually in the 60 to 70 % range but has gotten as high as 80 to 85 after watering. With that in mind I'm kind of leaning to this being some kind of plant disease (possibly fungal based) rather than an insect or nutritional problem.
What ever it is I don't think it's going to keep this coming harvest from being the best one I've ever had. Of course I've still got plenty of time to screw that up some other way.
Jack
"Nothing is fool proof to a sufficently talented fool".
Bernie Lomax
Member
Hey UB. Just wanted to say thanks for all the info. I've been lurking your threads for a while. Quick ?. What do you think about monty's joy juice 8-16-8 for feeding the veg stage? I have them in promix bx w/ extra perlite right now. Any info would be much appreciated.
DaveCoulier
Well-Known Member
UB, Ive got a weird question for you. How well do the underside of leaves photosynthesize?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Jack in the Bud
Active Member
madcatter,
Good Lord man, I've got them too. Finally saw them this morning while looking on the upper surface of the leaves. I can hardly believe I didn't see them with all the looking I did yesterday.
So what's your drill with the neem oil? Do you use some kind of spritzer bottle to mist it on? And at what strength?
And Uncle Ben do you know of any thing sold at Casa dePot that you'd recommend for dealing with these little bastards?
Jack
swishatwista
Well-Known Member
Neem oils legit, ne size spray bottle, regular strength if you'v got a problem. Some plants can be sensative so its recommended to go half-3/4 strength mixtures and mist every other day so, and your problem should we clear in a week id say. they'll tell you the reg. strength on the bottle, gl
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
Too high in P for me.
Considering that the palisade cells are located in the top 2/3 of the leaf tissue, I doubt if very well, one reason why I can't buy off totally on bare lamps hung down into plants. However, R and FR do pass thru the leaves is my understanding.
Good luck, at least you're on the right trail.
Malathion would be my choice.
UB
Jack in the Bud
Active Member
UB,
Malathion huh? Just happen to have some of that already in my pile. What do you think for a dosage? About 1 Tbls (15 ml) in a gallon of water and then applied liberally with a hand pumped spray bottle?
Jack
IceWaterBong87
Well-Known Member
thx uncle ben always seen u around
-even at times when some idiot was arguing u about the guy stealing ur work n presenting it as his own lol
quick question 24hr - 48 hr dark period
when switching to flower not natural so skip it? even with all the benefits
-even at times when some idiot was arguing u about the guy stealing ur work n presenting it as his own lol
quick question 24hr - 48 hr dark period
when switching to flower not natural so skip it? even with all the benefits
doc111
Well-Known Member
I know I'm not UB but I can tell you that it does jumpstart flowering a couple of days earlier but stresses the plants. IMO, not worth it.
Jack in the Bud
Active Member
O.K. Had to do something about these thrips which I identified this morning and since I already had some Malathion 50 on hand I used it. Did some on line research and found recommendations for using any where from 5 to 20 ml / gallon. I went with 10 ml / gallon. Set each plant one at a time in the bath tub and spritzed it down good with this mix thru an old windex bottle. Did this right before lights out. Guess the only other thing I can do now is wait for tomorrow mornings inspection with the magnifying glass to see what it turns up.
Jack out.
Jack out.
curious old fart
Well-Known Member
I'm fighting the mite battle, what do I use to eliminate the little bastards? I have been using neem oil....but I still have a few mites left.
peace
cof
peace
cof
doogleef
Well-Known Member
Floramite works really well on spidermites and their larvae. I think it's the best mite product on the market right now and I've used a bunch of em. Trouble is, its an agricultural product so its only sold by the manufacturer in a qt bottle that is about $275 and makes 768 gallons of spray 
. Thats a bit severe for most of us.
Some entrepreneurial soles are selling 1/2 oz (makes 12 gallons) bottles on ebay for about 15-20$ each. Well worth it at that price to be rid of the little fuckers
. Thats a bit severe for most of us. Some entrepreneurial soles are selling 1/2 oz (makes 12 gallons) bottles on ebay for about 15-20$ each. Well worth it at that price to be rid of the little fuckers
DaveCoulier
Well-Known Member
UB, can you suggest a good book on plant physiology to me? Particularly blooming plants. Id like one that has true information. Ive been getting a head-full of contradictory info when researching stuff like Phytochromes. Its hard to know whats true and whats not. On the subject of contradictory info, can you tell me if its Pr-->Pfr during dark period, or is it Pfr--->Pr during this time. Ive read from two different sites its Pfr--> to Pr, but then Ive got this message from a user here:
A man named D. Kroeze MSc (Horticulture) is the source of the information... I sent him the email you sent me and this was his response:
"Well it is actually a little more involved than just the red light since blue regulates the Circadian rhythms which also have to be right. The reality is that the plant wants to flower and is only "held back" by the saturation of the far-red phytochrome pigments which converts them to red phytochrome.
Then this saturation has to erase during the dark period with Pr reverting back to Pfr. Pfr is the physiologically active phytochrome. Far red light will change the Pr back to Pfr a little faster. The sequence is, during the day the plant absorbs red light converting the available Pfr to Pr which blocks floral initiation. At night, the Pr converts back to Pfr like grains in an hour glass. Once a level of Pfr is achieved, conversions begin to occur. Soon as red light is realized again, the process stops and Pr accumulates again. The secret is in converting Pr fast enough to Pfr so that the plant has time to shift characteristics prior to being stopped again.
Research suggest that it may be possible to affect this time with far red light, however, red light and blue light have effects on the overall cycle of the plant and everything has to be in line to work. The most effective wavelength of red light is between 620-640 nm (660 maximum), where as far red is most effective at 700- 725 nm maximum.
Hope this answers your question, your book is mistaken."
I hope you can help clear some confusion up for me. Thanks.
A man named D. Kroeze MSc (Horticulture) is the source of the information... I sent him the email you sent me and this was his response:
"Well it is actually a little more involved than just the red light since blue regulates the Circadian rhythms which also have to be right. The reality is that the plant wants to flower and is only "held back" by the saturation of the far-red phytochrome pigments which converts them to red phytochrome.
Then this saturation has to erase during the dark period with Pr reverting back to Pfr. Pfr is the physiologically active phytochrome. Far red light will change the Pr back to Pfr a little faster. The sequence is, during the day the plant absorbs red light converting the available Pfr to Pr which blocks floral initiation. At night, the Pr converts back to Pfr like grains in an hour glass. Once a level of Pfr is achieved, conversions begin to occur. Soon as red light is realized again, the process stops and Pr accumulates again. The secret is in converting Pr fast enough to Pfr so that the plant has time to shift characteristics prior to being stopped again.
Research suggest that it may be possible to affect this time with far red light, however, red light and blue light have effects on the overall cycle of the plant and everything has to be in line to work. The most effective wavelength of red light is between 620-640 nm (660 maximum), where as far red is most effective at 700- 725 nm maximum.
Hope this answers your question, your book is mistaken."
I hope you can help clear some confusion up for me. Thanks.