Under-nuted maybe?

ULMResearch

Active Member
Before I begin my journal, I just want to see if what I think was lack of food caused my problems. This entry will be used for my journal as well but I figured this would be a good place to start off. Here's the story:

I had some midgrade bagseeds in my paraph. tin just rolling around in a bag for like 6 months. On a lark I was like "let's put 'em in a wet paper towel and see what happens". Well about 6 of the 20 (and most of those 14 were obviously under or over mature to germ anyway) actually popped. A 7th popped later I think but it didn't do anything so I think a week of wet towel just cause the guts to swell up and mimic germination. Anyway... I had forgotten about them for a day or two and when I checked the roots of the 6 were about 1.5" long in the paper towel! I had nothing to do with them at the time because I wasn't even prepared for germination.

So I grabbed a rubbermaid box, about 12"X18"X10". Maybe a 5 gallon rectangle? I filled it with some 3 year old potting soil that had been used for a flower bed and then dumped in the yard. Pretty much inert stuff but I figured whatever, seedlings need nothing for a while anyway. Planted them and they became seedlings but after the first spear leaves popped they sort of stopped. Part of this was my fault. I never fed, didn't think they would need it. I watered (probably too much since this dirt had very little perlite in it and no drain holes in the bucket.)

I started them under a 15w 18" kitchen tube for the first few days. Then I got the bright idea of "let's do a guerilla grow outdoors!" So I took my 4 day old seedlings outside every morning and left them there most of the day. This is the south. Heat Indexes were triple digits and real temps were 99+ as well. Nevertheless, with inert soil, overwaterring and 100 degrees they lived. I could even see the little tops follow the arc of the sun all day. At night I brought them in and put them under the CFL (which I upgraded to 2x 23w 6500k spirals) Growth, however, was slow.

After a few days of that I went to wal mart, got some solo cups, 2 more 23w 6.5k bulbs and a bag of MG organic potting mix (I know I know). I got a bag of perlite too and made a 50/50 mix and transplanted into solo cups. I didn't just transplant, I took them up by the bare roots and put them in new soil. A bad idea. Bare roots from no nutes to hot organics shocked them a bit. They didn't get too bad though and in fact it was long (day or 2) before they adapted and new growth began. Everything was fine (other than me maybe over watering still - but I had hige drain holes and 50% perlite. Air/moisture wasn't an issue). At this time I have never checked ph or my tapwater or anything.

Plants began to grow, they got a couple of nodes and got a few inches tall quickly then growth slowed. I saw signs of damage, yellowing leaves at the bottom and some with a lot of brown/rust specks that in some cases grew large. I had never fed them and the soil/perlite mix I am using is like like .11 .7 .8% NPK by volume. No idea how this relates to feed that are more like 10% of each etc. The ratio was good though, so I figured it would be fine. I water with tapwater only and let them do there thing until the damage began.

So I went to the store and got some 10" 2.5gal or so pots and transplanted. I was forced to use the same medium (50/50 mg organic potting soil/mg perlite with that added food crap). I also had been ordering my hydro supplies for next grow (this is my test run on the room before I use quality seed). So at the bottom of each put I put a 1-2 ball layer of hydroton clay. Filled the pots with dirt, dug a solo cup sized hole in it, put another 1-2 ball layer of hydroton at the bottom so the roots would have strong airy moist things to first reach since they were rootbound in the cups.

Seems like a great idea to me and seems to be working. Lots of drainage with 50/50 soil/perlite, a bottom of hydroton and a middle layer of hydroton. It holds moisture for days but it isn't dripping wet. Of course this is probably why I still have one plant showing overwatering symptoms and one more just coming out of it. Watering too often! I've learned by now, don't worry! My last watering was with 1/4 strength Lucas Formula using GH micro/bloom. Has every micronutrient I need and NPK just right. It was meant as a temporary fix since the plants were just coming out of rootbound containers that they had obviously eaten all of the food in.

So anyway here is the question. The lower leaves on a plant or two (the first 3 prongs) turned yellow and had brown/rust spots all over them. I even saw one or two on another plant. I watered with some epsom salts (tsp in a gallon) and made a foliar spray at half that. Watered with it and sprayed a few times over a couple of days and all the upper leaves turned so green! I knew the yellow damaged ones wouldn't really ever recover but I swear between the spraying and the feeding that they were turning back green. The upper leaves which had been yellowing between veins slightly (more like lime green vs. dark green veins) just greened up over the course of half a day to a day. The damage seemed to halt and reverse like I said. I went ahead and cut the leaves off anyway so the plant would stop wasting energy.

Finally the questions: were my plants just starving or were they burning in the mg soil?

After my GH feeding I noticed a tiny bit of nute burn, likely due to the direct contact over the roots but it wasn't prolonged and seems to have stopped entirely. I probably won't feed them with anything more than 1/4 str Lucas Formula every other watering for now. I don't think I need a flush. Runoff is fairly clear and tests ok for PH, under 7 but not under 6 according to the drops (I know.. can't afford a digi this week).

Oh, and they are now under a 400w MH in a cooltube. Ambient temps are almost always 80-82, with swings from 77-86 depending on the conditions. (100+ outside, 80 inside despite tons of AC). The outer room and inner room are only 5-9 degrees different, so it's definitely not out of hand. They will never see 90 degrees. Radiant temps if I put the sensor at plant top level in the light can be close to 90, but that doesn't account for the fan. Plant leaves at the top are cool to the touch, no discomfort under the light. I can grab the tube 1/2" from the bulb and hold it without burning. I have a 240CFM inline fan (effectively 160-200cfm due to semi-passive intake - my plant "shaking in a slight breeze" fan sends a little pressure into the tube also. Closet passive intake is about 2x the exhaust fan. 16"x8" intake and 6" round exhaust. I get a slight negative pressure so I'm pleased with that.

Next question! Plants grew so well in the new medium and after feeding and I was able to keep the light 6-9" from the tops with no heat stress. Problem is the plants stopped growing up. I know this can be genetics and clearly I have 2 dark green fat leaved indicas, but I have 4 which show more sativa like leaves. They didn't stop growing though, they just decided to put on preflowers and now every leaf node is growing a branch. The plants are only 6-9" tall! Some of them have 3" branches already. Some may call this a great thing. Is it? I want compact plants but I don't want to hurt them. I backed the lights off some, up to 12"-15".

What's the story with that? The new growth is lush, thick and green with no signs of the nute burn I saw the first day of feeding. They are also ~ a month old. I find it a miracle that they all survived what they began life as but they have all recovered wonderfully (i think).

I water with ~7.0ph water. run off is slightly lower. My only issue is the TDS of my (filtered hah!) tapwater is 350-400. PH is over 7. Adding a few nutes or pH DOWN fixes it right up (or down lol.. to 6.5ish) though.

Going to add pics in a bit, so please bear with me. I apologize for the length. This is going to be copied into my journal and I will reduce this later.
 
Bro to cut a very long story short your plants took or are taking this long to recover from that damaging transplant u gave them. Always wait till rootbound so u get a tight root/soil ball.
 
What's that saying about a picture being worth a thousand words

What about two thousand?
 
Yeah, I totally knew that happened when I did the first emergency transplant. They recovered great from that. My main concern now is the lack of upward growth and the nodes along the stem filling out. It could be because my cooltube 400w MH can be 6-10" from the tops with no heat problems. Right now I'm sort of sure that one plant is overwatered and a couple have minor over-fert but they stopped showing signs quickly. Only like 2mm of the very end tip yellowed.

Should I flush with just that little bit of burn? The feeding really solved my other deficiencies though. I'm thinking that just a dose of fresh clean water next time will help. Does ANY sign of nute burn require a 3x flush?

Yeah, pics coming soon i swear. Sorry. The plants look good overall but I could be wrong.

Using dropbox to get my phone pics online now.. patience!
 
OK here is the pic of my setup on June 29. These are about 3-3.5 weeks old, not long after I transplanted them from some dried out potting soil in the backyard. This is in MG Organic Potting Mix/MG Perlite in a 50/50 ratio. 2 big drain holes on each cup. They were watered until I got 25% runoff or so. I probably overwatered them but the medium was really fluffy and airy. When I transplanted them by the bare roots they had one spear leaf and the cotyledons only. Took a couple of days to recover and within a week this is what they did.

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I transplanted them again on July 3rd or so. The closet was painted in Olympic Premium Ultra White Flat paint with ~30% titanium dioxide. Very white, very reflective. Cleans up with water and can be repaired with a brush stroke. My 400w digital cooltube was installed with a 400w MH bulb. 4000k, 36000 lumens. Not the best but 28 bucks at Lowe's /shrug!

So this is July 7.
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This one topped itself. I think something may have bit it when I was still hardening them to the sun before I decided to go indo.
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This one looks like it was overwatered. The soil is moister than others, but airy and fluffly like it should be.
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They are in ~3gal pots afaik can tell. Fucking walmart and their "inches" and holds "x quarts of dirt" labelling. I plan to flower asap since this is really just midgrades as a test run of my closet setup. They all have the green preflower blades at each node, just waiting on the first asymmetrical leaf before I go 12/12.

Next post will be of today. Coming up soon!

P.S. Those yellow spotted leaves were what I thought would be deficiencies and after a weak dose of GH Lucas Formula and some weak epsom salt water in a foliar spray. the damaged leaves greened up a bit and all damage halted. May have been a pH issue also? But that was their first ever feeding at ~4weeks.
 
Today I have them under this 400MH in the closet (and yes I do need to finish painting the bottom and very top but it's not in the light zone!

Temperature range over the last couple of days:
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No humidity gauge, but outdoors is 70-90% around here so I doubt it's too dry indoors or quite that moist with AC. I'll get a digi for it one day but I don't think it's an issue imo.

Door from the inside, passive intake louvre at the bottom.. works as a light trap too:
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Door on the outside, color matched louvre for extra light trapping. Once I finish the foam stripping on the latch side there will be no light escape (I usually have a towel on the floor on the inside so that big bright spot isn't usually visible at all.
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With my current ventilation I get about 8-9 degree difference between outer room and closet ambient temps. Not bad. With the door cracked it's down to 4-5. Thinking about adding an intake fan but temps are great. 78-86 usually, despite 100+ temps outdoors.

Some vent shots.. I don't like having a 90-turn but I can't do anything about it. :(
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This plant still looks overwatered. It was AWFUL looking last night, this morning it seems better. Despite knowing it's overrwaterd I gave it just a tiny splash of pure water since I disturbed some fresh roots when checking the soil moisture depth.
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Here it is with it's friends. All get the same exact treatment:
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Here is the exploding undergrowth I mentioned:
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And the self topper!
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This is my interior ventilation system. $10 fan from walmart hung from a coat hanger. At the top of the hanger I keep the wireless temp sensor just to get a good unbiased ambient temperature. I keep the main unit out of the room mostly unless I'm testing radiant temps when I move the light. I like to monitor my differential so I can plan adjustments to increase the security, privacy and self-contained nature of the room.

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The fan blows half the air into the tube to increase pressure for my inline exhaust rig in the attic. The other half cools the tube and gently stirs the plant tops.
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30 seconds later... could go all day but I don't want cancer. :)
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Sorry for the long post. I know it's a lot to wade through.

But the ultimate question I have is: how do they look for 4.5 weeks old or so, knowing the rough start they had, etc. And is the one I think that's overwatered really overrwatered or is something else wrong? I think I have a little nute-burn but the symptoms aren't progressing past the first days signs. Would clean water on the next watering (with a good bit of runoff - a small flush basically) be cool to even the nutes back out? The GH I hit them with spurred them on but I think they hit the soil and the combo of both was too much. I think washing out the GH and letting them just eat soil for a while would be okay until I flower in the next week or so. Thoughts?

Plants are all 5-7" tall, some of them are 9-10" wide though. The indica strains have 1/4" to 1/2" internode spacing, the clearly sativa strains have up to 1" node spacing. The self-topped one is just a ball of leaves so hard to measure haha.
 
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