URDWC what size pump?

JSB99 said:

I always went to HD, up until this past year. Lowe's really beats them in prices with PVC!

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Now I think about it maybe should have done 3" between the totes and then ran 1.5 for the 10ft run to my res in my furnace room concrete. right now my only concern seems to be the roots traveling at the return and then into the adapter from 1.5" to 3/4". Maybe a project I could do in the summer is to try to drill those out somehow...maybe clamp a piece of wood so there is somewhere for the mandrel to drill.

SmokeyMcChokey said:

Ouch the good old home Depot was my friend. 2" is standard home drain size for my local code. So it's all dry cheap. I used regular old tees at like 3.50 each. The sweeping 90° was like 2 bucks the 10 foot stick was like 8. I did have to order the uniseals online. They were probably the most expensive part. Like 4 each. Well the 12 gallon tote. They were I think 7 each and I had to get a 6th because I prefer to just drill holes without planning too well. I do have all the tools needed though. So if you had to buy a drill and a hole saw and a miter saw or hack saw it could add up quick

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Yeah I had to buy some tools, most were cheap the most expensive was the 6" hole saw lol. But yeah, I bought extra totes just in case I messed up. I got the 12 gallon strong boxes on clearance for very cheap $2-$3 so if I needed to replace im kinda screwed.

Next time buy an adjustable hole saw

Cuts plastic much cleaner

And you can size it for damn near any size net pot

kingtitan said:

Yeah I had to buy some tools, most were cheap the most expensive was the 6" hole saw

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I know it's a little after the fact, but the easiest way to do this, and by far the cheapest, is to use a jigsaw with a steel blade. It's so easy to cut your big holes this way.

JSB99 said:

I know it's a little after the fact, but the easiest way to do this, and by far the cheapest, is to use a jigsaw with a steel blade. It's so easy to cut your big holes this way.

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You need to try the adjustable

I use a jigsaw before too, but i have found nothing cleaner cutting then the adjustable for plastics

Since its a blade like a knife it doesnt.make burrs or plastic saw dust that takes a year to get completely out of every thing


Saws tend to grab soft plastic and tear or crack more so then the knife blade action

Run hole saws in reverse for plastics to start your cut then switch to forward for best results in my experience

Cold$moke said:

Run hole saws in reverse for plastics to start your cut then switch to forward for best results in my experience

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Exactly!

Cold$moke said:

You need to try the adjustable

I use a jigsaw before too, but i have found nothing cleaner cutting then the adjustable for plastics

Since its a blade like a knife it doesnt.make burrs or plastic saw dust that takes a year to get completely out of every thing


Saws tend to grab soft plastic and tear or crack more so then the knife blade action

Run hole saws in reverse for plastics to start your cut then switch to forward for best results in my experience

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I found running in reverse high speed and just weight of the drill made it hot and just mostly melted through, no burrs. Took a few holes at first to figure this out.

kingtitan said:

I found running in reverse high speed and just weight of the drill made it hot and just mostly melted through, no burrs. Took a few holes at first to figure this out.

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On 2" holes and below, I use standard hole saw bits. If the blades are sharp, I run it forward, lightly, and slowly. It'll cut a beautiful hole, with barely anything to clean up around the edges. But this takes some practice, and courage, because we all know how easy it is to rip or chip that thin plastic. If I think the plastic is too delicate, or my bit isn't as sharp as I'd like, then I'll run it in reverse, and clean up the edges with my dremmel, and a sanding bit.

On anything larger, I drill a pilot hole for the jigsaw blade, then just cut the hole. It's so easy, and the plastic cuts like butter. But, you have to use the right blade. Use "metal" blades. Anything else, and you risk grabbing and tearing the plastic.

I had to expand my 2" holes when I got my bulkheads. I used nothing but a jigsaw and a piece of sandpaper, to smooth the edge.

I cheated, and made a bucket drilling fixture jig lol

Made all holes in the same location within a 1/16th