UV Suppliment Lighting
- Thread starter DrGreenT420
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Keesje
Well-Known Member
Did you read also the science paper that it is referring to?
https://www.nature.com/articles/srep07383#ref15
It is is very unclear for me.
For example it says this: Lethal effects of UVB have been reported for spider mites, in which UVB irradiation strongly decreases survivorship and egg production. However, there are no reports that describe lethal effects of UVB or UVA (315–400 nm) on insects, although UVA irradiation slightly decreases adult longevity in the lepidopteran Helicoverpa armigera.
A spider mite is an insect... so what do they mean?
https://www.nature.com/articles/srep07383#ref15
It is is very unclear for me.
For example it says this: Lethal effects of UVB have been reported for spider mites, in which UVB irradiation strongly decreases survivorship and egg production. However, there are no reports that describe lethal effects of UVB or UVA (315–400 nm) on insects, although UVA irradiation slightly decreases adult longevity in the lepidopteran Helicoverpa armigera.
A spider mite is an insect... so what do they mean?
Moflow
Well-Known Member
Here another interesting article
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19508803
You'd need a uv-b tube and some spider mites - ain't got any at the moment, thank fook lol
Put the spider mites in a container of some sort then apply the uv-b and see what it does to them. How much, how long is needed before it effects the mites and will the dose of uv-b adversely effect the plants?
Or use the uv-b tube and manually run it through the plants to expose the underside of all the leaves and the critters to uv-b light
Obviously it would be easier to do this if the plant was defoliated!
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19508803
You'd need a uv-b tube and some spider mites - ain't got any at the moment, thank fook lol
Put the spider mites in a container of some sort then apply the uv-b and see what it does to them. How much, how long is needed before it effects the mites and will the dose of uv-b adversely effect the plants?
Or use the uv-b tube and manually run it through the plants to expose the underside of all the leaves and the critters to uv-b light
Obviously it would be easier to do this if the plant was defoliated!
radiant Rudy
Well-Known Member
In a wet lab type environment would there be any uv penetration to effect TSSM on leaf undersides?
Renfro
Well-Known Member
I am sure someone on here can help you out. lol
pulpoinspace
Well-Known Member
A spider mite is technically classified as an arachnid so maybe you answered your own question
Insects and arachnids are both Arthropods so you could look up uv affect on arthropods
Keesje
Well-Known Member
I had to visit Wikipedia for all this information
Will do more research as it is an interesting field.
As a specialist (you know all the official words at least)... would there be a way to get mites somewhere?
TEKNIK
Well-Known Member
I have heaps of spiders around my house you can have some big hairy cunts too if you want to experiment on them.I had to visit Wikipedia for all this information
Will do more research as it is an interesting field.
As a specialist (you know all the official words at least)... would there be a way to get spider mites or other mites somewhere?
Keesje
Well-Known Member
I read on Wikipedia that the mites that are hurting plants are Red Spider Mites and the Two-Spotted Spider Mites. You can fight them with predatory Mites. If I would buy those predatory mites and do the test on them, would it be the same? Or is any specific type of mites different (I mean will one species be killed by UV-A and the other species not?)
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
If you have already spider mites or something similar it will probably take a while until they dissapear. The eggs they have hidden under the leaves are may not affected but the mites will be affected and with the time their eggs too. So depending on ambient temps maybe between 20 and 60 days. These beasts reproduce themself pretty fast with 30°C ambient temps so it maybe takes two or three generations.
I have usually no mites or other insects in my groom cuz with neem cake and some diatom earth in the soil you can keep them away easily. Neem cake aginst all sucking insects in the arir and diatom earth to destroy any soil living insect like some sort of tripse or fungus gnats larvea. These bulbs also emit some visible blue light so its no wonder they will fly around if they can. It maybe needs more time like with more harmful UVC but over time insects will for sure dissapear.
It's better used to prevent your groom against any manifestation as to remove/kill insects immediately. And if you want something with even stronger effect you can install a small 11w UVC ponds clearer bulb running24/7 inside the air intake hose. Such systems are used for clean rooms to keep them free from any flying pathogens or spores. You get them as 1U cfl bulb, 7, 9 or 11w but I'm sure you can get even bigger ones. But these bulbs are potential dangerous so keep them away from children. But when you have you tent in a cold garage or wet basement they do a pretty good job.
I have usually no mites or other insects in my groom cuz with neem cake and some diatom earth in the soil you can keep them away easily. Neem cake aginst all sucking insects in the arir and diatom earth to destroy any soil living insect like some sort of tripse or fungus gnats larvea. These bulbs also emit some visible blue light so its no wonder they will fly around if they can. It maybe needs more time like with more harmful UVC but over time insects will for sure dissapear.
It's better used to prevent your groom against any manifestation as to remove/kill insects immediately. And if you want something with even stronger effect you can install a small 11w UVC ponds clearer bulb running24/7 inside the air intake hose. Such systems are used for clean rooms to keep them free from any flying pathogens or spores. You get them as 1U cfl bulb, 7, 9 or 11w but I'm sure you can get even bigger ones. But these bulbs are potential dangerous so keep them away from children. But when you have you tent in a cold garage or wet basement they do a pretty good job.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
I have this bulb used in a handheld to protect the plants in my greenhouse. Oct./nov. it get's pretty wet here and usually you get but rot and PM like crazy. I've lost a whole run because of bud rot and 3 days before there was absolutely nothing.
With the painter suit, the thick gloves and the sunglasses I surely looked like some sort of mad professor, lol!
With the painter suit, the thick gloves and the sunglasses I surely looked like some sort of mad professor, lol!
Moflow
Well-Known Member
SSGrower
Well-Known Member
^^^^^evidence this might indicate you would be contributing to the delinquency of minors?
....snip But these bulbs are potential dangerous so keep them away from children......
....snip But these bulbs are potential dangerous so keep them away from children......
radiant Rudy
Well-Known Member
In my garden UV via agromax pure uv was not remotely as effective as micro biological innoculation of phyllo and rhizosphere.
For some fungus UV is a signal to induce sporulation.
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/248610160_Effect_of_light_on_the_growth_and_sporulation_of_Botrytis_cinerea
Effect of light on the growth and sporulation of Botrytis cinerea
Sporulation of Botrytis cinerea Pers. ex Fr. was stimulated by near ultraviolet light. Infrared, red and yellow light were also slightly effective, but blue and green light were ineffective.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Near UV means 400-410nm, that's so called black light which has fluoro effects(disco, pinkish nail, teeth, ...).
I have 6 pureUV bulbs myself(2footers) and their spectrum starts around 275nm which is actually UVC! 75% of the output is between 280 and 320nm(UVB), 25% is 320-400nm(UVA). But there is a bit visible blue too so these numbers are not 100% correct.
But these bulbs are not perfect for plants cuz they have an unnatural 3:1 ratio UVB : UVA. Plants are used to natural ratios which can be between 1:3(2000m, Mexico City) to 1:20(Cornwall, GB). So always more UVA like UVB even in higher areas with strong UVB.
With the opposite ratio you danage the plant cells pretty fast and for this reason you can only work with a pretty low dose of 4x 15 minutes or so. Even less like 16-18" are already too stressful and cause damage on the fan leaves. I've even used "superspreaders" in front of the bulbs to lower the center hotspot. In theory they are good but reality tells a different story. I'll for sure sell the unused 4 bulbs and rather take something with better ratio. The Solacure bulbs are much better because they too mimic natural ratios, the only downside is the old bulb standard.
Another example..
Lets say you use pureUV's for 2h per day(which is too much already), 24" distance. Their website says 170μW/cm² at 2ft height, in 2h that's a dose of 12,24kJ/m2 UVB(2x 170 x 0,036).
An Arcadia 14% bulb has 150μW/cm² at 16" but can run easily 6h the day. That's almost a three times higher dose of 32,4kJ/m²(6x 150 x 0,036) and you'll see no damage because these bulbs minic the natural spectrum reptiles are used to.
For this reason they are much better siuted for plants and someone should tell Agromax to throw the pureUV's finally in the bin and develope something with natural UVB:UVA ratios. Actually I should not sell them since I know this cuz I would not have bought 6 of them when someone had told me that before... Its somehow unfair..
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i just blast them with my diy uv-c clean light a few times in veg
Keesje
Well-Known Member
But doesn't it hurt the plants as well?
And with less then a 4 x 4 it might be ok.
But let's say you space a larger and you can't reach the leaves that are further away
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Nope! With such a UVC treatments each leaf is only radiated for seconds and that's far less stressful. UVC kills spores and pathogens within seconds.