Vacuum purge ..... Is it a must?

I've read in some threads that guys say it's a 100% a must then other guys say it isn't. So I kept reading and time seems to be the factor. I plan on doing a batch tommorow . The plan is to leave the butane wash in the 8x12 dish over night on a heat matt for clones. Then let it sit in the oven for a undetermined amount of time. Hopefully some people can help me with this part. I'm unsure of the temp and duration of the oven stage. Im in no rush.......I just want quality. I plan on testing the final product in a vac chamber to see how well it got rid of the butane . Any advice would be nice thanks

wow .. i think somebody here can provide that

A vacuum is faster and does a more complete job, but you can do it without. What end product do you covet?

Nothing is a must..there are no rules.... Do whatever floats your boat homie but I'm learning that these guys know what they are talking about. You want to make some honeycomb? You need to vac it -but you certainly don't need to spend hundreds on a power vac pump & chamber. I do mine with a mityvac I got new for $27 & a jelly jar.... I use a $14 heating pad on high & wrap it around the jar to form a mini oven, pump it up to -25hg & release a few times then leave it for 20 mins to wax. Actually made some nice honeycomb last night but forgot to take pics... Will take some to share when j get home to show yup what you can make just by hand vac- ing your BHO. I've made wax/shatter without a vac but it takes a long time. If you don't wish to vac at all why not try an alcohol extraction or Winterizing your oil to purge. Pics coming soon

I never vac

Dannoo93

I just let the pyrex set out over night after I use the sink (hot water max, use flexy hose to spray water along bottom of pyrex, till bubbles cease)
I cover it in plastic wrap then put a bunch of wholes through the wrap



that's what's left a third or so of what I had
I only blasted an o of some mexican brick weed for that batch. Waiting on christmas reggies to blast.. that should yield

I should also add clarity and how dark the oil is, is determined by the starting materials.

this is some dark oil and I never exposed it to real heat...

Though If you do bring flame to it it will get darker. I used to put all the oil in glass vials and put a flame to it on and off till it stopped to bubble AT ALL
.. wasn't worth using the vials though.. they break after enough time and are nearly impossible to get your hash out of


I use fasfil butane as well I get it for 3$ a can so I can just do a blast on a whim


I also don't whip my stuff. thats why mine is all a dark amber blob. i either leave it out or just run a razer across the top of the whole thing a time or 2
I have never found the whipping to do anything for me
though I will admit I do have plans for a digital vacuum degassing oven


Anyone gotten into using those alcohol mixtures.. and what is winterization...

I hear winterization is where it is at

Why dont you search the threads ??
Yes many of us winterize.. many use polar solvents to start as well

winterizing removes the fats,waxes and other lipophillic (fat loving)compounds. What makes them lipophillic or hydrophillic is based on polarity... butane is non polar (lipophillic) ethanol and iso are relatively polar, meaning they won't allow lipophillic substances...

Solubility is largely based on polarity and temp. so if you heat the polar ethanol or iso it will absorb the extract left from a butane wash. After freezing it the solubility of the waxes and fats decreases. These lipophillic non polar waxes precipitate as a solid out of the solution. It can then be filtered

The waxes and fats removed make up the harshness and congestive properties smoked hash oil can sometimes bring. This process does not remove terpenes and will drastically increase the quality of a butane(non polar) extract... if you start with an iso or etoh wash its not as necessary and shatter can easily be produced using a single polar wash.. iso in the middle of butane and ethanol polarity wise giving the best extract only using a single wash......but for compounds such as thca and precursory cannabinoids to move about the plant (as well as all compounds within the plant) they must be relatively polar. Because of this iso or etoh can extract a dirty product if left in solvent too long....which is why a long soak in butane that's allowed to pull every last cannabinoid and wax/fat. And then winterized to remove the wax/fats will give a better yield of quality product than iso or etoh.

Fats and waxes are highly lipophillic. For a compound to have drug likeness it must be polar to a light degree(allowing crossing of the blood brain barrier and to be soluble in the blood).. this slight polarity helps keep them in the ethanol as all cannabinoids have a hydroxyl group when the also lipophillic fats get pulled, the fats and waxes are also larger heavier compounds which hinders solubility. winterizing is how commercial perfume/essential oils are made, and if done properly will not harm the flavor, though I should mention the waxes and fats pulled often are somewhat fragrant.. It should be noted thc itself is an aromatic terpene, anything affecting flavor effects potency. I do all my extracts in the dark and under 70 degrees even in the purge. 75 degrees or so is when lighter terpenes began to volatize into the air (I also dry/cure at 70 or under for this reason) vapor pressures aren't linear too

polarity is relative, butane does not have a polar hydroxyl group -oh while iso and etoh do . This is responsible for iso's high boiling point, even though its molecular weight is very similar to butane. and why water boils at a much higher temp, being much lighter than butane or iso. Hydrogen bonding is the strongest intra molecular force. Imfs are what determine solubility. Their is no defining line between polar and non polar. Its how polar or non polar. To find out,the biggest clue is molecular structure. ch bonds are non polar making hexane with more carbon a better non polar solvent. These hydrocarbon solvents lack the polar hydroxyl group that water iso and ever clear have.. but for them to hold cannabinoids in suspension and dissolve them they must also have anon polar side,which is why you can't winterize in water...likewise You can't winterize in a completely non polar solvent either. Iso is actually quite non polar, so is ethanol. Look at a ph index polar water is 9iso somewhere around 4 etoh 6and butane 0.. this is just an estimate off memory.. Etoh is best, iso will work butane will not. This is because of the waxes increasing solubility in the non polar solvents.

I found the best way is to extract butane right into cold everclear, winterize, then evaporate off at low heat. I have a vac chamber.....and don't seem to use as much anymore since I started using everclear to extract into....when I heat up the everclear to 100 after extracting the butane into it....it totally drives off all the butane....leaving the thc in the everclear....

I read up some more since posting and to ontario it seems like you can just use the vacuum purger without heat

hiluxphantom said:

I read up some more since posting and to ontario it seems like you can just use the vacuum purger without heat

Click to expand...

Once the skin forms on the puddle, evaporation grinds to a near halt, even under vacuum. You need enough heat for the puddle to stay liquid enough for the bubbles to readily escape.

The molecules are agitated by heat and ricocheting around the puddle, until they hit the surface with enough energy to escape. They escape faster with more heat, and when they are in a partial vacuum.

Even frozen, the solvent may sublimate away over time, but they will not do so very fast after the surface skin forms.

I use hot water purge and get good shatter or oil depending on material. Ill be running some trim soon hoping for some killer shatter

This is really all about time and yield properties. Butane wants to be a gas at room temperature and ambient pressure. After enough time most of it will naturally off-gas. To Quizoking's point, there is much more to it than getting rid of the solvent. For personal use, the Mason jar-food saver vacuum pump will do the trick. For anyone serious about supplying pure, consistent, reliable product to dispensaries or customers you need to look into equipment that can support that goal.

got beautiful budder from hot water purge today. used low heat and got shatter, went back to purge lil longer lil warmer and got some nice lil cookies