Various kind of spots...ph lockout?

Do you know everything the guy used in the soil? It could have been pretty hot to begin with and you didn't need to add "grow, bloom, phosphorus plus and booster". I'd just feed it plain water when it needs watering for awhile. You don't want the roots sitting in soaking wet soil.

The thing is that the ppm readings you're getting in the runoff are not necessarily what the plant has at the root zone. There is the organic matter and usually perlite and compost, worm castings, etc... which makes up the bulk of the soil. Amendments like guano, bone meal, azomite, kelp, alfalfa, etc... will leach out of the soil which could be why you're ppm's are so high in the runoff. You may be able to get an idea of the ppm's with runoff from an inert growing material like coco or promix but not with an organic super soil which sounds like what you're growing in based on the fact that rabbit humus is a component.

I have no exact knowledge, but i can tell you that he told be that is meant to use along with fertiliziers.
I ran water through it and it added 200ppm to my tap water.

So the rabbit humus is the main fertilizer found in the mix.

JHake said:

I have no exact knowledge, but i can tell you that he told be that is meant to use along with fertiliziers.
I ran water through it and it added 200ppm to my tap water.

So the rabbit humus is the main fertilizer found in the mix.

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Rabbit humus isn't hot at all on it's own and can supposedly be used without composting unlike other manure's. I'm sure there are other amendments in the blend as well which is why as
@kingromano stated I was thinking potential nutrient antagonism causing a lockout of one or more nutrients. I'm not a soil expert just throwing out my two cents so take it with a grain of salt. But a few grows back I mixed up my own blend of super soil, didn't follow a proven recipe, didn't let it cook long enough, and ended up with plants that looked just like yours. I'm back to growing in coco for now. Anyway, I hope you figure it out. You won't be able to fix the damaged leaves but you can stop further damage if you figure out what's going on. Good luck.

Nutrient Antagonism
https://www.rxgreentechnologies.com/rxgt_papers/nutrient-antagonism/

Thanks for your answers man.

I don't buy anymore from the guy/grow shop that makes this soil not because i don't like it, but what i do not like is lack of more technical data on products they sell.

The soil it's supposed to be made mostly of sphagnum peat moss, a little of coco coir and "cortex compost" (im making a literal translation from spanish to english on this one). On their web site the claim this mix to have and ec of 0,3-0,45. Another spec says: "NPK and micros: 1,5L" (!?).
To that soil mix is that i added the rabbit humus.

Defs on calmag and N were the first signs i saw on the plant, according to your link it could be due to Potassium excess.

Right now i think the two main options are just keep watering the plant when need; or flush the hell out of it on next watering, im talking about thinks i read like give it 3x times the volume of the pot.

I think that a many of the posts people make when they are having issues is from too much of something not enough of something. The typical response many people give is to say it's a deficiency and to add this or that when in fact the issue is not a lack of something but an abundance of something else. The first response is too look at the cannabis deficiency chart many use as a guide, assume it's deficient in a nutrient and then add more stuff to make up for that deficiency. That can lead to even more issues making matters worse. I'd just go with normal waterings with plain water myself but you'll have to decide what to do.

Good luck

You are right. By now i just cannot understand how my thoughts weren't along that line: seeing the deficiencies but suspect the cause was in the plan't being able to eat rather than no having food.

And also the change in my watering strategy allowed for more built up salts.

But what's done it's done.

I'll just water it then.

A little update:

Yesterday found another overnight runoff. Measured it for a lecture of almost 4000ppm
Buds are a little more fat and put on a little more trichomes/sugar.

Today i will be watering with a product that has ascorbic acid and citric acid; i understand ascorbic acid can help with salt removal on the soil. I have AN FF at disposal, but it has magnesium and i just don't want to add nothing more lol. I also emailed AN and they told me to use FF only for pre harvest flush, not a flush at my stage of flowering.
Ascorbic acid is very water soluble i believe.

I will try to take a sample of the soil and measure it's ec with a method read here, where i mix the soil sample with twice water volume, let it sit for 20 minutos, read ec and multiply for 2.4.

Hello piratebug. Would you tell me a little bit more about magnetizing the water? Size and power of the magnets? How run the water through a north and south pole? I've seen some videos of putting the magnets down the recipient and other ones that put one pole on each side of the container, but not sure how to do it.

Update:

Day 39 since 12/12 switch.

Looks somewhat better now. Removed some burnt leaves these days.
Day 35: watered until 50% runoff
Day 37: watered until 15% runoff

I watered 48hs after last flush/heavy watering, because it felt like she needed it.
Maybe its recovering and drinking more? Also because a later stage on her life cycle?

What could mean the bright/lime new growth?
Do you think it will benefit frome a mild nutrient solution? I believe new growths looks a bit overfed still, but maybe the micros can be beneficial?

Lots of questions today, lol.

Will be updating in a few days.

I'm not exactly sure why it was posted that runoff pH doesn't matter but its the only way I've ever been able to maintain a steady pH. If you feed @ 7.4 and runoff is 6.5 obviously your rootzone is lower than 6.5 and your feeding pH needs adjusted he higher or your medium needs a buffer. First signs of a calcium deficiency in soil ,90% of the time it's due to low pH

I was using those ph reactive paper indicators, and got a misreading on my interpretation of it; but it was like at the end of Veg.
I borrowed a friend's ph meter and i by comparing i realized i was lowering the ph more than needed. I wasn't something like below 5,5 i would say.
But after that i started to lowered a little less, even sometimes didn't lower it at all. Tapoff ph is something about 7,2-7,5; sometimes even 7, or at least after a few days being on the buckets.
Lastly, my bloom nutrients adjust ph of the solution.

But yes, there was a phase on the life of the plant were i was a using a lower ph.

hotrodharley said:

Poor poor advice on watering IMO. Runoff pH is useless. Runoff PPM is not. Have you supplemented calcium yet? You’re in the window for calcium deficiency.

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This is what I was referring to brotha. Both runoff numbers are important... Chances of your pH being in the "zone" when your runoff ppm is high are slim but if your ppms are low your pH can still be out of whack.

Another update:

Watered yesterday, wanted little runoff; ended up being 10%.

The pot clearly is needing water more often; i suspect it will last a few more days and then would proceed to drink less since harvest approaches.

Next watering, if it continues to be 48hs apart, will be on day 41 of flowering.
Do you think giving nutes at 1/4 strength will be ok?

I'll keep updating this every 48hs or every watering.

Plant is putting on resin; buds didn't get a lot fatter.

Watered on day 41 of flower with nutes at 1/4 strength.
Will keep on with just water until harvest.

I remove a few of the burnt leaves every day, realized they weren't getting better so decided to pluck them so underneath green leaves get more light.

Looking foward to next crop and hoping to be able to keep it green and healthy from start to finish.

Still watering every other day for a little runoff. Some pictures