Veg issues from the jump [Helpthenoob]

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DJAYCOOLBREEZE

Member
The Girls are being stubborn and Ive read my eyes :wall:out on so many pages and forums... [not to say there isnt more to read]:neutral: but im kinda wondering can they recover now....

PROBLEM Having excessive droopyness, purple stems, still havent decided if I wanna go tap or RODI after reading distill strips nutes...

  • Im using Mothers Earth: Cocoperilite mix
  • 600w 24hrs MH
  • Pots need to change to smartpots
  • Humidifier
  • Water ph 5.8-6.1 usually20191212_110147.jpg
 

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coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Raise your light, use your reflector properly and cut your light down to at most 20h on.
What EC are you feeding?

Your concentrating an awful lot of light on young (clones?) all day every day.
 
Jypsy Dog

Jypsy Dog

Well-Known Member
Don't know where to start so I won't. Here's MORE THAN ENOUGH to fix your tent. Good Luck.

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DJAYCOOLBREEZE

Member
coreywebster said:
Raise your light, use your reflector properly and cut your light down to at most 20h on.
What EC are you feeding?

Your concentrating an awful lot of light on young (clones?) all day every day.
Click to expand...
Tbh.. just raised my light last nite to where the bottom of the reflector is 18-19in from canopy.. at first I was measuring from mid light bulb to canopy..... can you elaborate on use reflector properly?

Will change timer now... gotta pick a good time .. rather lights be off while im sleeping i.g. so i can see while im awoke for monitoring..

Can you put EC into lamens terms... I do use a Bluelab Ph pen If thats in the ball park of what your asking...
 
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DJAYCOOLBREEZE

Member
The T5s are in there jus to spread light around but honestly dont need them probably... they dont burn hot so wasnt a main concern as long as I keep plants 6in away
 
coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
DJAYCOOLBREEZE said:
Tbh.. just raised my light last nite to where the bottom of the reflector is 18-19in from canopy.. at first I was measuring from mid light bulb to canopy..... can you elaborate on use reflector properly?

Will change timer now... gotta pick a good time .. rather lights be off while im sleeping i.g. so i can see while im awoke for monitoring..

Can you put EC into lamens terms... I do use a Bluelab Ph pen If thats in the ball park of what your asking...
Click to expand...
The reflector should be spread wide so it distributes light across a bigger footprint , right now its concentrating it all on a smaller space and thus is more intense. Just google Dutch barn reflector or batwing.

I would aim for 4 hours (minimum)off in the middle of the day when its warmest for the least temp difference between lights off and on and it still gives you plenty of time to look in and manage /water them.

By EC I mean electrical conductivity , or PPM parts per million, as in how strong is your nutrient solution. If you don't have a truncheon/meter then just tell us the ml per litre of what your feeding with.
 
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coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
DJAYCOOLBREEZE said:
Havent been giving any nutes tbh.... just watered with 5ml[1tbs] of calmag to 1g of distilled water for the 1st time... and within the time of my post it appears the color is coming back ...
Click to expand...
They need food, nutrients, coco is not soil.

DJAYCOOLBREEZE said:
Another question to add to the mix... i cut a leaf with my finger nail ... leaving a residual stem.. is that bad... what is the proper way [ cut at stem?]
Click to expand...
No ,don't worry about that.
 
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DJAYCOOLBREEZE

Member
Craigson said:
Possibly over watering being in those big pots.
Thats the main reason most start in smaller pots or solos.
Easier to control
Click to expand...
I water slow from center [stem] to edge of pot.. kinda making a few slow pour lines.. while twisting the pot... so if it were a clock every 5-10min marker would get a small drizzle spread evenly... waiting for excessive run off after 500ml or so of water there good
 
PSUAGRO.

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
Next time use soil, it's easier for beginners and also no autos==can't veg out any issues, it's not amateur friendly.

But yes, treat Coco like hydro, read up
 
Richard Drysift

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
DJAYCOOLBREEZE said:
Tbh.. just raised my light last nite to where the bottom of the reflector is 18-19in from canopy.. at first I was measuring from mid light bulb to canopy..... can you elaborate on use reflector properly?

Will change timer now... gotta pick a good time .. rather lights be off while im sleeping i.g. so i can see while im awoke for monitoring..

Can you put EC into lamens terms... I do use a Bluelab Ph pen If thats in the ball park of what your asking...
Click to expand...
They need nutrients badly. Droop is almost always caused by either too much or too little moisture at the root zone. They look dry to me. If you push in a finger and it's not moist they need water/nutes. You don't need to use smartpots or a humidifier, well, unless maybe you live in the desert. Be sure your containers have drainage holes in the bottom and don't water to runoff if you can help it. Once you have a good well hydrated mix lift up on the pot to gauge the weight. Compare against a dry pot full of mix to determine if they need water or not. With that much aeration (perlite) in your mix its doubtful you have drainage issues; likely the opposite. Try to keep the mix as moist as a damp towel.
Coco & perlite is a hydroponic mix. You need to mix up your nutrients to the proper ppm and adjust ph in range before adding to the plants. Don't cut anything off until they recover. Go look at other growers topping/fim jobs for reference. As a rule of thumb wait at least til the 5th set of nodes before topping and dude...use a blade or something. If you are using nutrients tap water should be fine; no need for RO or distilled.
Ph or EC can be hard to wrap your head around but that are the same thing in different forms of measure. PH has to do with the percentage of hydrogen available to the plants.,,,that's what it stands for: percentage of hydrogen. Plants exchange one molecule of hydrogen for every molecule of nitrogen, potassium, or phosphor or whatever they need. This is a cation exchange. Sounds complex but it means the plant can only absorb what it needs if the correct amount of hydrogen is present. This is the ph range. EC is measured by electric conductivity and is closely related to ph; the same thing just a different way of measuring. In soil the ph is balanced by minerals and/or active raw materials whereas a sterile hydro medium is inert. It has no ph buffers at all so you must adjust ph in range so the plants can absorb all the nutrients you provide.
 
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DJAYCOOLBREEZE

Member
Richard Drysift said:
They need nutrients badly. Droop is almost always caused by either too much or too little moisture at the root zone. They look dry to me. If you push in a finger and it's not moist they need water/nutes. You don't need to use smartpots or a humidifier, well, unless maybe you live in the desert. Be sure your containers have drainage holes in the bottom and don't water to runoff if you can help it. Once you have a good well hydrated mix lift up on the pot to gauge the weight. Compare against a dry pot full of mix to determine if they need water or not. With that much aeration (perlite) in your mix its doubtful you have drainage issues; likely the opposite. Try to keep the mix as moist as a damp towel.
Coco & perlite is a hydroponic mix. You need to mix up your nutrients to the proper ppm and adjust ph in range before adding to the plants. Don't cut anything off until they recover. Go look at other growers topping/fim jobs for reference. As a rule of thumb wait at least til the 5th set of nodes before topping and dude...use a blade or something. If you are using nutrients tap water should be fine; no need for RO or distilled.
Ph or EC can be hard to wrap your head around but that are the same thing in different forms of measure. PH has to do with the percentage of hydrogen available to the plants.,,,that's what it stands for: percentage of hydrogen. Plants exchange one molecule of hydrogen for every molecule of nitrogen, potassium, or phosphor or whatever they need. This is a cation exchange. Sounds complex but it means the plant can only absorb what it needs if the correct amount of hydrogen is present. This is the ph range. EC is measured by electric conductivity and is closely related to ph; the same thing just a different way of measuring. In soil the ph is balanced by minerals and/or active raw materials whereas a sterile hydro medium is inert. It has no ph buffers at all so you must adjust ph in range so the plants can absorb all the nutrients you provide.
Click to expand...

The soil around the base seemed moist when i stirred it using a fork...but I believe you are correct about my EC and ppm. Before using the Ph reader it was hit and miss using Ph Down..
 
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