vegging plants under 40w t5's

jacksthc

Well-Known Member
14 days update

The tallest shoot is 15" high and there starting to smell very strong now
gave the plant a drink last night 1/2 tsp epson salts, 1/2 tsp of cal-mag, 1 tsp bio buzz fish mix, 2 tsp bio buzz bloom in 5ltrs of water
found my old ec wand, the ec strenth of the nutes is 1 :)

as the plants are starting to grow buds now I am going to cut down the nutes to
1/4 tsp epson salts, 1/4 tsp of cal-mag, 1/2 tsp bio buzz fish mix, 2 tsp bio buzz bloom in 5ltrs of water

here the pics




canopy.jpg


top view.jpg
 
14 days update

The tallest shoot is 15" high and there starting to smell very strong now
gave the plant a drink last night 1/2 tsp epson salts, 1/2 tsp of cal-mag, 1 tsp bio buzz fish mix, 2 tsp bio buzz bloom in 5ltrs of water
found my old ec wand, the ec strenth of the nutes is 1 :)

as the plants are starting to grow buds now I am going to cut down the nutes to
1/4 tsp epson salts, 1/4 tsp of cal-mag, 1/2 tsp bio buzz fish mix, 2 tsp bio buzz bloom in 5ltrs of water

here the pics




View attachment 3490911


View attachment 3490912
Looking lovely
 

jacksthc

Well-Known Member
Looking lovely
thanks mate
its getting interesting as the plants are still growing and the tallest shoot is now 16" high

The problem is I have real height problems, only 40" from the floor to the air cooled hood and now its at the max height

so the hood is 15" above the highest shoot, the cloest I can have the canopy to the hood is about 12"

may have to lst my plants if they keep growing, just to keep them under 20" high
 

jacksthc

Well-Known Member
The clones are 6 days old and looking heathy but no sign of roots yet, will put some more pics on in a few days, gave them a good water yesterday and now I will let them dry out to encourage the roots to grow



clones.jpg


16 days in flower and the plants still growing, here some pics

canopy.jpg



top view.jpg
 

jacksthc

Well-Known Member
update 19 days in flower
tonight I opened the door to flower room an hour before the light turn on, check for problems and there was a couple of thrips
only 2 or 3 (small back flys)

The buds started growing 5 days ago and I have still got 5 weeks left, so I am not messing around trying to keep my girls heathly
and loss half my yeild, I gave the plants a really good spray on the underside of the leaves with a strong bug killer spray I expect it to knock the plant back and affect the leaves a little but I should me getting any more bugs

here's the plants before I sprayed them,

flower.jpg
 

jacksthc

Well-Known Member
update 23 days in flower

The plants have grown to about 19" heigh and they look good, over feed them a little too much fish mix as the leaves are clawing also the leaves are looking a little too dark, as they are in full flower now and they have stopped growing, I will back off the nutes and give them 1 tsp of bio buzz bloom per 5ltrs and see how they get on

canopy.jpg



took the cutting 13 days ago and all the clones have roots now, I will be potting them up in the small veg cab tomorrow


clones.jpg

thanks :)
 

driel

Well-Known Member
Great journal, seems you got a lot of your clones to survive which is more than I can say for my last few attempts. Is your potting soil just regular black soil?
 

jacksthc

Well-Known Member
Great journal, seems you got a lot of your clones to survive which is more than I can say for my last few attempts. Is your potting soil just regular black soil?
thanks driel

I used Jiffy Peat Pellets and some other rubish coco Pellets a friend gave me

TBH it doen't make any difference coco, Pellets or soil.

In the propagator the temps need to be 20c- 30c
don't let the clones sit in water ( biggest mistake most growers make)
refresh air in the propagator once a day
only spray the clones for 3 days
after 5 days open vents or lift propagator corner an inch to allow the humidty to drop (but if the clones drop, spray them and close vents or drop the propagator for a day or two)
let the clones dry out before watering (top, sides look dry)
 

jacksthc

Well-Known Member
Your grow is looking Fucking great. You gunna put the clones under the t5s?
thanks mate
yer going to keep the best 6 clones and veg them in the cabnet :)

4 plants filled my room in flower so I may gain a little more yeild from 6 plants but thats all I need so I will bin the rest :(
 

jacksthc

Well-Known Member
first day in veg :)

group.jpg

potted up.jpg

veg room.jpg

I will give these plants 1/2 weeks and pot them up in my larger veg room under a 250mh
as the plants in flower are going to be in the last 2 weeks and i need the temps to be 25-30c or there a chance of bud root
I brought a temperature /hygrometer meter and my temps are 20c lights out and 23c lights on
checked the hygrometer with the wet salt as there alway wrong, my one's too high by 3 (reads 78 with wet salt)

my room has been between 58- 70 over the last too days and increasing my temps 5c will reduce the humidty, also I will lolpop the plants and remove a few fan leaves in the 2 next week as this will reduce the humidty further :)
 

jacksthc

Well-Known Member
about a week ago the weather changed and I got the odd cold day so I added a 120w tube heater, on a timer so it came on when the lights turned off
The thing I forgot about was the heat drying the pots out

also I had used buckets (2 x 12ltrs buckets and 2 square pots 10ltrs all fill up 80%)
one of the square pots was next to the heater so it dryed quick (underwatered) and the bucket the other side was getting over watered :wall:

so thats why I got the hooked leaves on the back left plant and they did'nt all dry out at the same time
still think the plants where over feed so I will be giving them A tsp of bio buzz bloom in 5lts of water from now on

lollipop the plants and remove half a carry bag of leaves, shoots in hope to reduce the humidty ( which was between 60-70 since last night)
 

jacksthc

Well-Known Member
update day 26 in flower (12/12)
I have sorted the grow room and gave the dry plant 300ml of water last night so all the plants would need a drink tonight
1tsp of biobuzz bloom in 5ltrs of water, the day temps dropped to min 17c and lights on 23c ( not canopy temp, meter hanging on the wall level with canopy so you could add 5c with the lights on ) so its a little cool and humidty 65- 72 so not great

couple of pics of my plants



bud.jpg


flower.jpg
 

Darth Vapour

Well-Known Member
sorry fellow but for 1 ft2 veg cabnet, 40w of t5 daylight tubes is a good amount of light for a small veg cab with Mylar on each wall, the veg room is very bright !!.
a plant @ 40 watts will not need much nutrients as one under 1000 watts (this doesn't make any sense)

its all down to the plant size and the size of the root mass, the bigger the plant the more light and nutrients the plant can use.

1000w covers a 5ft x5ft room but whats the point if you have a small single plant under it
best use a 250w hps as you save a lot on electric and its easier to keep the room cool, till it out grows the light

the other thing is the room it takes up (5ft x 5ft) and it would cost me £45 to run for the 4 weeks
my veg room cost about £2 and I don't think the results will be any different if I flower under a 600w hps

I have played around with 250w/400w/600w, mh/hps in veg and flower and its just not needed in the summer, I will be using the 250w mh on my next crop (in about 6 weeks time) as the heat from the mh will go in the flower room and keep the flowering plants warm as the temps drop for when the lights off in my flower room

4 phases Pre-flowering, Early flowering, Peak flowering, Late Flowering
more of a sale pitch than anything else

canopy shape is the main thing I go for in late veg/ early flower.
you can spend £100's on nutes, boosters etc and gain nothing (Advanced Nutrients Sensi Grow And Bloom+b52,big Bud,voodo cost £156 on ebay)
that cost more than all my electric, nutes, soil for the hole crop (veg and flower)
but to each there own.

Arguably the most vital part of any indoor grow is the lighting. While many new gardeners mistake nutrients for “food,” light is the real source of food for plants. Simply think of nutrients as vitamins. But which type of lighting should you choose? How many watts per square foot are optimal? Many factors, including genetics, Co2 uptake, medium, and nutrients, can all affect how much light your plants need. Let’s take a look at the optimal numbers for the three most common types of indoor grow lights: CFL, HID, and LED.

CFL’s are the most common type of light bulb (now that incandescents are being phased out) and are often characterized as those “little spiraly bulbs.” While the penetration and output of CFL’s are relatively poor, the heat output and upfront cost is very low. However, due to their relatively low efficiency, indoor growers should aim for 100 watts per square foot of canopy coverage with CFL lighting. Fortunately, with the vast variety of bulb sizes, and the lack of the need for ballasts like HID lighting, CFL lightning can be heavily manipulated and shaped to the plants as they grow.

HID lamps include two common types: Metal Halide (MH) and High Pressure Sodium (HPS). Based on their color spectrum, growers typically use MH bulbs for the vegetative cycle and HPS for the flowering period. While HID lamps tend to run hotter than any other form of lighing, and also require a ballast to operate, they also provide for some of the greatest canopy coverage and penetration. When using HID lighting, an ideal range is 60-75 watts per square foot. Plants can flourish with as little as 50 watts/sq ft but as mentioned before, light is their source of food. As long as everything else is dialed in, you should aim for 75 watts/sq ft.

While LED lighting is currently the most expensive per watt, there are a variety of other factors that have make it a great option. Some of these bonuses include a smaller vertical profile, a precise light spectrum, and focused light output. While you can get away with a lower amount of lighting with LED’s, an optimal amount is 50 watts per square foot.

As for the tent size 1 x 2 and 40 watts it will grow a plant but not at what its capable of ???? being your litterally 20 watts per Sq foot well below optimal and again adding efficiency even less wattage per Sq
More or less VEGGING RANGE MORE FOR CLONEING AREA IMO
hence the less nutrients needed doesn't matter what size of plant you got in there think of that plant as a battery running at 1/4 capacity its not going to give you more power when there is non to give light power dictates liquid uptake and plant growth speeds
like saying how come a 250 watt light is the same as a 1000 watt light a light is a light plants are getting light :) here 2 week old plants @ 40 watts plus per Sq foot and what they look like 10 days later 3 - 4 times the size there buddy with stalks that will hold its own weight rather then thin flimsy stalks that with less power needs to be staked up to support plant gallery_11738_4816_72830.jpggallery_11738_4815_2228341.jpg gallery_11738_4816_2376.jpg
I am just stating facts people grow in less desirable conditions but one thing new growers should take out of the equation of plant issues is having there grow lights in optimal areas one less worry right ???
 

Darth Vapour

Well-Known Member
Oh i forgot to say looking good what strain is this and average flower times ??? is it on target as per breeders times ??
 

jacksthc

Well-Known Member
Arguably the most vital part of any indoor grow is the lighting. While many new gardeners mistake nutrients for “food,” light is the real source of food for plants. Simply think of nutrients as vitamins. But which type of lighting should you choose? How many watts per square foot are optimal? Many factors, including genetics, Co2 uptake, medium, and nutrients, can all affect how much light your plants need. Let’s take a look at the optimal numbers for the three most common types of indoor grow lights: CFL, HID, and LED.

CFL’s are the most common type of light bulb (now that incandescents are being phased out) and are often characterized as those “little spiraly bulbs.” While the penetration and output of CFL’s are relatively poor, the heat output and upfront cost is very low. However, due to their relatively low efficiency, indoor growers should aim for 100 watts per square foot of canopy coverage with CFL lighting. Fortunately, with the vast variety of bulb sizes, and the lack of the need for ballasts like HID lighting, CFL lightning can be heavily manipulated and shaped to the plants as they grow.

HID lamps include two common types: Metal Halide (MH) and High Pressure Sodium (HPS). Based on their color spectrum, growers typically use MH bulbs for the vegetative cycle and HPS for the flowering period. While HID lamps tend to run hotter than any other form of lighing, and also require a ballast to operate, they also provide for some of the greatest canopy coverage and penetration. When using HID lighting, an ideal range is 60-75 watts per square foot. Plants can flourish with as little as 50 watts/sq ft but as mentioned before, light is their source of food. As long as everything else is dialed in, you should aim for 75 watts/sq ft.

While LED lighting is currently the most expensive per watt, there are a variety of other factors that have make it a great option. Some of these bonuses include a smaller vertical profile, a precise light spectrum, and focused light output. While you can get away with a lower amount of lighting with LED’s, an optimal amount is 50 watts per square foot.

As for the tent size 1 x 2 and 40 watts it will grow a plant but not at what its capable of ???? being your litterally 20 watts per Sq foot well below optimal and again adding efficiency even less wattage per Sq
More or less VEGGING RANGE MORE FOR CLONEING AREA IMO
hence the less nutrients needed doesn't matter what size of plant you got in there think of that plant as a battery running at 1/4 capacity its not going to give you more power when there is non to give light power dictates liquid uptake and plant growth speeds
like saying how come a 250 watt light is the same as a 1000 watt light a light is a light plants are getting light :) here 2 week old plants @ 40 watts plus per Sq foot and what they look like 10 days later 3 - 4 times the size there buddy with stalks that will hold its own weight rather then thin flimsy stalks that with less power needs to be staked up to support plant View attachment 3500661View attachment 3500666 View attachment 3500673
I am just stating facts people grow in less desirable conditions but one thing new growers should take out of the equation of plant issues is having there grow lights in optimal areas one less worry right ???
The plants uses nutes to turn sunlight into food but the amout of nutes the plant can use is down the size of the root mass and the amout of light the plant can use is down to the amout of leaves

The closer the light is to the leaves, the more light the plants can use but the lights will cover a smaller area, thats why I often use t5's over cfl's with smaller plants

t5's cover the same area but with less power
higher watt cfl pentrate the canopy much deeper than t5's

so you buy the light to cover your needs in veg and flower
plants in veg need less watts per square foot than plants in flower


sorry this don't make any sence
you don't need 2x 600watts in a 4ft x4ft room


not sure about 75 watts/sq ft. with hps thats way off, everyone know a 600w hps can cover a 4ft x 4ft room (16 ft square foot, thats 37.5 watts per square foot).
 
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jacksthc

Well-Known Member
Oh i forgot to say looking good what strain is this and average flower times ??? is it on target as per breeders times ??
thanks mate
its a skunk 1 (very fruity mellow high) (45-50 days)

average flower time for this strain is 8 weeks
breeders times are alway off so add a week or two, thats what I do
 

jacksthc

Well-Known Member
last friday I potted up my clones and they have double there size and are ready for topping :)

before I top my plants

before.jpg

and after I have topped all 6 plants :)

line up.jpg

after topping.jpg
 
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jacksthc

Well-Known Member
30 days in flower 12/12

The buds are growing quick in size and now I am very worried about bud root as the humidity is between 65-80 and the temps are between 20-22 with intake fan off lights out

so last night I got my tube heater and put it in the veg room ( intake fan blows cold air in there and then it goes into the flower room), so I can leave the intake fan on 24h and the tube warms the air up

put a 400w flat panel heater on the far wall in the flower room to heat the room up when the light off

now the temps have gone up to 25-28c (day and night temp) and the humidty has dropped to 45-50 :)

temp humidty.jpg

back plant.jpg


right plant.jpg

front.jpg
 
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