pinner420
Well-Known Member
N+1 lighting scheam x...o...x...o...x two plants 3 lights. Exhange air 2 x a minute. Loose the 1000 and do all 600s or gradually drop those new 315s in. Ahh ..
Last edited:
Ventilation HELP please
- Thread starter chickenhead420
- Start date
hondagrower420
Well-Known Member
Exactly right
My setup goes ac>passive intake>tent>hood>fan>filter
My temps speak for themselves. The top temp (out) is the tent. And the bottom temp (in) is the room. It's a 600w in a 40"x40"x80" tent.
Yes, the light is 24" away because they are seedlings.
chickenhead420
Member
I went with option #2, the 2nd fan is attached right to the chimney stack and it's blowing all the air out now, no back pressure falling back down. I can go outside and in the dead of the night if I listen, I can hear the air escaping the top of the chimney now, so I think I'm good. Temps are ROCK solid now.
As for the portable AC, I did do an "elephant" mod to it. I used a 8-6" reducer that fit perfect over the front, then I run a insulated duct to the tent. Not a drop of cold escapes, it all goes to the tent. I also took apart the AC and extended the thermostat so it reads the temp inside the tent, so when I set the portable AC outside of the tent to 75, it controls the temps based on the air at the top of the inside of the tent.
Since I'm in a basement, yes I could have cooled the room the tent is in, but it's not insulated and I figured 90% of that cold air would have been lost through the ceiling, etc and not in to the tent, thus forcing me to run it 10x longer.
Thanks for all the input though, it's running nicely now
As for the portable AC, I did do an "elephant" mod to it. I used a 8-6" reducer that fit perfect over the front, then I run a insulated duct to the tent. Not a drop of cold escapes, it all goes to the tent. I also took apart the AC and extended the thermostat so it reads the temp inside the tent, so when I set the portable AC outside of the tent to 75, it controls the temps based on the air at the top of the inside of the tent.
Since I'm in a basement, yes I could have cooled the room the tent is in, but it's not insulated and I figured 90% of that cold air would have been lost through the ceiling, etc and not in to the tent, thus forcing me to run it 10x longer.
Thanks for all the input though, it's running nicely now
since1991
Well-Known Member
My cousin had the portable that blew the cold air out the top of the unit. So she boxed it in with rectangular hvac ducting that transferred to round 6". The kind for heat/cooling floor and wall registers at h depot. Same exact setup as you. Its actually some of my old equipment i sold her. 4 air cooled 600"s in a 6x6 tent. She doesnt exhaust out a chimney is pretty much the only difference than yourn.
HydroRed
Well-Known Member
Why put the fan in the hottest point of the line though? Also, if you suck instead of push you risk pulling unscrubbed air through the lights/ducting & entire exhaust system allowing weed smell to escape. If you have it the way I pictured, there isnt any way for unfiltered air to escape the tent, plus the fan wont be on the hot end of the exhaust wearing it out prematurely.
since1991
Well-Known Member
Yeah hes pulling through a chimney....not so bad with the smell. Pulling you dont get heat trapped at the last lamp. Its a trade off. Ideally 2 fans one pulling and one pushing is the ticket. With one i always say negative pressure pulling. They get warm. But there outside the room.
chickenhead420
Member
I have two fans, one pulling air through the carbon filter, through pushing through the 3 lights and to the WYE pipe, and the 2nd fan at the chimney stack pulling that air and the portable AC hot air up through the chimney stack, about 25 feet up, so I need that fan there otherwise the air falls back down and creates back pressure in the portable AC forcing it to shut off. I've been at this for weeks trying new things, was all set until the portable AC came into the mix and now after days and days and days, 2 fans works great. One in the tent pushing air, the other at the chimney stack pulling air. I can set the portable AC and the tent drops down in no time to the temp the AC is set for and stays there. I was never able to get it so stable.
My lights are sealed all off, each light connected to the other with fast clamps, so no ducting to even leak and it's a very straight path. Each light is totally sealed off so nothing to suck through. If a tiny, tiny bit of scented air does get pulled in, at least it's being shot 30 feet+ into the air in the neighborhood and a lot harder to pinpoint than coming out a dryer sized vent or head level window.
My lights are sealed all off, each light connected to the other with fast clamps, so no ducting to even leak and it's a very straight path. Each light is totally sealed off so nothing to suck through. If a tiny, tiny bit of scented air does get pulled in, at least it's being shot 30 feet+ into the air in the neighborhood and a lot harder to pinpoint than coming out a dryer sized vent or head level window.
NwoodsGrower
Active Member
i'ev often thought of trying to locate the and extend the thermos sensor on an AC how hard was this and any tips as far as what to look for in locating sensor
chickenhead420
Member
It wasn't hard. Inside was a schmatic pointing me right to way wires were the correct ones, so followed them back and found the probe buried around the intake air vents. Cut the wire, soldered on a 10 foot extension, and it works greats. It's within a degree of my analog hanging thermometer, so the extension didn't effect it at all and it's awesome since you always it to be the temp inside the tent, so outside the tent. Pointless getting the temp in the hallway to know how hot the tent in, so now the tent temps control the AC which is also great during the dark period, the AC stays running in fan mode 24/7 but only kicks on to cool when the tent is warm, not the room surrounding the tent.