Vermicomposters Unite! Official Worm Farmers Thread
- Thread starter Rising Moon
- Start date
Crab Pot
Well-Known Member
Now I'm nervous to use the BuffaLoam compost (even in the veggie garden). It seems to me that if the worms died in there... how can microorganisms possibly live in there??
The compost is really dry out of the bag. The only thing that I did was hydrate the compost with Aloe Tea before adding the worms.
The compost is really dry out of the bag. The only thing that I did was hydrate the compost with Aloe Tea before adding the worms.
SpicySativa
Well-Known Member
It still could contain deworming medicine, along with a variety of other persistant nasties (pesticides, broadleaf herbicides, etc). Do a google search on "contaminated compost" and you'll find that this is a very real issue with commercial product.
As far as I know, compost can be called organic once it's been "composted"; doesn't seem to matter much what the inputs were. For example, compost made from municiple green waste is commonly labelled as organic. It's made from people's yard waste, and we aall know people love to spray their yards with all manor of toxic substances.
Crab Pot
Well-Known Member
Interesting... I didn't know that inorganic matter could be turned into organic matter... lol...
This kind of stuff really pisses me off!! As a consumer, I buy 'Organic', but who knows if what I get is really organic or not. The same goes with 'wild fish'... who the hell knows? When there is money to be made... some people will do anything.
I sent an e-mail off to BuffaLoam and I will let you know their response is.
This kind of stuff really pisses me off!! As a consumer, I buy 'Organic', but who knows if what I get is really organic or not. The same goes with 'wild fish'... who the hell knows? When there is money to be made... some people will do anything.
I sent an e-mail off to BuffaLoam and I will let you know their response is.
Rrog
Well-Known Member
They expressed concern in Teaming With Microbes regarding the use of animal manure. Only because of the antibiotics and wormers. Microbes will degrade a lot of these and I seem to recall that they are generally accepted as OK. Many pesticides are broken down eventually through microbial action.
There are some molecules that can persist, obviously.
There are some molecules that can persist, obviously.
SpicySativa
Well-Known Member
Yeah, you just never know... A little extra motivation to invest the time and create your own humus. I harvested another 10 gallons of black gold from my bins just last weekend. 
turnip brain
Active Member
Regarding ***-"cides" in worm bins, I have a serious gnat problem in my bin. I have treated with judicious amounts of BT, but didn't do much at all. So have added a light spray of spinosad and heavier amount of BT. Still a lot of gnats, but seems a bit reduced population. Trying to take it slow with amounts, but the worms still seems just fine. Wondering about resorting to a full drench of spinosad. Any experience here?
Rrog
Well-Known Member
Same with any soil:
Here's my arsenal for pests:
#1 Vermicompost. Fresh stuff will help protect both the soil and leaves.
#2 Neem Meal- Also good nutritionally when it decomposes, this is a great pest suppressant, especially in its whole form. http://www.neemresource.com
#3 BTI dunks Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis bacteria. Mosquito dunks. Any hardware store has mosquito dunks. These feed on larvae. http://www.thatpetplace.com/mosquito-bits-larvicide-36oz?gdftrk=gdfV2226_a_7c268_a_7c6967_a_7c196070&ne_ppc_id=1463&ne_key_id=26452429&gclid=CLTRrJ_2gLkCFYxcMgodrQsA8A
#4 Nematodes- These will travel around in search of larvae to infect and explode. http://www.naturescontrol.com/thrip.html#pn
#5 Crab Shell- The shell contains chitin. This attracts bacteria that eat chitin, and these bacteria multiply like crazy. Larvae have jawbones made of chitin. Bacteria then eat the jawbones. Shell releases a lot of great minerals and Calcium also. www.OrganicGrowers.com
Here's my arsenal for pests:
#1 Vermicompost. Fresh stuff will help protect both the soil and leaves.
#2 Neem Meal- Also good nutritionally when it decomposes, this is a great pest suppressant, especially in its whole form. http://www.neemresource.com
#3 BTI dunks Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis bacteria. Mosquito dunks. Any hardware store has mosquito dunks. These feed on larvae. http://www.thatpetplace.com/mosquito-bits-larvicide-36oz?gdftrk=gdfV2226_a_7c268_a_7c6967_a_7c196070&ne_ppc_id=1463&ne_key_id=26452429&gclid=CLTRrJ_2gLkCFYxcMgodrQsA8A
#4 Nematodes- These will travel around in search of larvae to infect and explode. http://www.naturescontrol.com/thrip.html#pn
#5 Crab Shell- The shell contains chitin. This attracts bacteria that eat chitin, and these bacteria multiply like crazy. Larvae have jawbones made of chitin. Bacteria then eat the jawbones. Shell releases a lot of great minerals and Calcium also. www.OrganicGrowers.com
turnip brain
Active Member
Thanks Rrog,
A little confused about #1 vermicompost in your list there. That's what is in the bin already isn't it?
I forgot that I was considering ladies in red, and I'll add neem and crab shell to the shopping list.
A little confused about #1 vermicompost in your list there. That's what is in the bin already isn't it?
I forgot that I was considering ladies in red, and I'll add neem and crab shell to the shopping list.
turnip brain
Active Member
I started just adding crumbled dunk to the bin, then same with BT granules. No visible effect
Latest tactic just a few days ago, soaked a handful of granules and lightly drenched the bin with the water.
Crab Pot
Well-Known Member
From my experience, over-feeding is a sure way to get a gnat infestation (too much food = gnat infestation).
Remove the food in the worm bin until the gnat infestation is under control and coverup any remnants of food with castings, compost or bedding. The BTI take care of the larva over time. Spinosad will poison/kill the microbes that your worms are feeding on... You don't need it. Use a sprinkle of diatomaceous earth (DE) over the content of the bin. DE is sharp and causes cuts and serious wounds on the adult gnats. DE is effective when dry but not when wet and DE won't cause harm to your worms. DE consists largely of silca.
After the gnat infestation is under control start feeding the worms slowly, hiding the food under/inside castings, compost or bedding and look for the correct balance of bedding, compost, castings and food.
The most important thing that I did to improve the balance in my worm bin was to add homemade compost. The worms feed on the compost, sleep in the compost and gnats aren't attracted to the compost.
Remove the food in the worm bin until the gnat infestation is under control and coverup any remnants of food with castings, compost or bedding. The BTI take care of the larva over time. Spinosad will poison/kill the microbes that your worms are feeding on... You don't need it. Use a sprinkle of diatomaceous earth (DE) over the content of the bin. DE is sharp and causes cuts and serious wounds on the adult gnats. DE is effective when dry but not when wet and DE won't cause harm to your worms. DE consists largely of silca.
After the gnat infestation is under control start feeding the worms slowly, hiding the food under/inside castings, compost or bedding and look for the correct balance of bedding, compost, castings and food.
The most important thing that I did to improve the balance in my worm bin was to add homemade compost. The worms feed on the compost, sleep in the compost and gnats aren't attracted to the compost.
turnip brain
Active Member
Not really, the other thread is about re-amending a soil mix. This is about the worms, Really appreciate your replies in both cases.
turnip brain
Active Member
Can you point me to references for this? I've read pretty in depth about spinosad and have not found any evidence/discussion to back up this statement other than conjecture.
Crab Pot
Well-Known Member
I started a lactobacillus culture last night, which I plan to use to make bokashi. This is my first attempt. I was just going to throw food scraps in a 5 gallon bucket, add the culture, put the top on the bucket and give it a few weeks. Is this a good method?
Wetdog- You offered to help me out with a bokashi recipe, using alfalfa as I recall?
Wetdog- You offered to help me out with a bokashi recipe, using alfalfa as I recall?
