HondaVixen
Member
Oh wow, not as expensive as I though, awesome. Do they make any that take pictures?
Waited too long to flush... now what?
- Thread starter HondaVixen
- Start date
StaySmokin206
Active Member
Some do but they will be more expensive.. I saw one on the Cannabis Cup documentary that you can hook up to a tv and look on the tv 
HondaVixen
Member
haha.. yea I'm not that high tech yet - but would look nice on the new 40in the bf and I just invested in
So the trichromes are what I would call the "crystals".. yes?
So the trichromes are what I would call the "crystals".. yes?
StaySmokin206
Active Member
yes that is righthaha.. yea I'm not that high tech yet - but would look nice on the new 40in the bf and I just invested in
So the trichromes are what I would call the "crystals".. yes?
HondaVixen
Member
Hmm. Okay. Well atleast that is covered. thanks, appreciate it!
jcdws602
Well-Known Member
Sorry for assuming that.....if you need any help I can help you to the best of my knowledge pm me with any q's you have....you can use epsom salt for mag deficiency...you can get it at wal mart...or any drug store.......you can use it as foliar but keep read the bottom first.....
When is it okay to use epsom salt?
-When you have diagnosed your plant as being Magnesium deficient or locked out. The leaves appear evenly striped, with a pale streak running cleanly down the center of each interveinal region on the fan leaf,and or cupping of leaves.....
-When you are already correcting the CAUSE of the initial deficiency or lockout. This means identifying and fixing all soil, water, fertilizer, and envrironmental problems and actively addressing them.
How should you apply Epsom salt?
-Using a Magnesium compound as a foliar spray is less risky than adding it to your fert solution (unless you have calculated what you need or are using CalMag Plus). Fill a spray bottle with lukewarm tap water. Add one drop of dish soap and 1/4-1/2 teaspoon of Epsom salts. Allow to dissolve. Mist lightly, not to runoff or beading, onto affected leaves just when the lights come on. Repeat daily until pale stripes disappear.
When is it okay to use epsom salt?
-When you have diagnosed your plant as being Magnesium deficient or locked out. The leaves appear evenly striped, with a pale streak running cleanly down the center of each interveinal region on the fan leaf,and or cupping of leaves.....
-When you are already correcting the CAUSE of the initial deficiency or lockout. This means identifying and fixing all soil, water, fertilizer, and envrironmental problems and actively addressing them.
How should you apply Epsom salt?
-Using a Magnesium compound as a foliar spray is less risky than adding it to your fert solution (unless you have calculated what you need or are using CalMag Plus). Fill a spray bottle with lukewarm tap water. Add one drop of dish soap and 1/4-1/2 teaspoon of Epsom salts. Allow to dissolve. Mist lightly, not to runoff or beading, onto affected leaves just when the lights come on. Repeat daily until pale stripes disappear.
HondaVixen
Member
Please don't apologize... you're help is always appreciated!! Luckily, I have epsom salt already for relaxing baths.. Would you like me to send you some better pictures of the yellowing leaves? The leaves don't really seem striped to me... nothing going straight down the vein, but I could be wrong as I'm not 100% positive what I'm looking for.
jcdws602
Well-Known Member
Magnesium is a component of the chlorophyll molecule and serves as a cofactor in most enzymes.
Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green though as can be seen in figure 15.
Notice how in Figure 16 and 17 the leaves curl upwards like they're praying? They're praying for Mg! The tips may also twist.
This can be quickly resolved by watering with 1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.
If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout or invest into a reverse osmosis water filter.
Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green though as can be seen in figure 15.
Notice how in Figure 16 and 17 the leaves curl upwards like they're praying? They're praying for Mg! The tips may also twist.
This can be quickly resolved by watering with 1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.
If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout or invest into a reverse osmosis water filter.
Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
Figure 16
Figure 17
Da420Monkey
Active Member
so how are the ladies looking?
HondaVixen
Member
Not very well at all, at this point Ive lost 3 of my ladies. I checked the ph run off that evening, and all was well. I started a foilage spray with epsom salt, and next feeding also added epsom salt to the reservior. Over the next week things have just steadily gotten worse.
I dont understand, 3 weeks ago they looked GREAT. Lucious, tall, strong, smelled beautiful. A few days later, shit hits the fan, and only went downhill from there.
Attached are some pictures taken from today. I'm heavy flushing today and chopping tomorrow just to salvage what I can. But beyond fucked doesnt even describe what I am feeling right now. So disappointing. This is my 3rd run with these 'unknown' ladies, and Ive never seen anything quite like this. FML.
I dont understand, 3 weeks ago they looked GREAT. Lucious, tall, strong, smelled beautiful. A few days later, shit hits the fan, and only went downhill from there.
Attached are some pictures taken from today. I'm heavy flushing today and chopping tomorrow just to salvage what I can. But beyond fucked doesnt even describe what I am feeling right now. So disappointing. This is my 3rd run with these 'unknown' ladies, and Ive never seen anything quite like this. FML.
Attachments
Da420Monkey
Active Member
Phosphorus (P) Mobile Element and Macro Element
Benefit: Phosphorus does a lot of things for the plant. One of the most important parts of Phosphorus is: It aids in root growth and influences the vigor of the plant and is
one of the most important elements in flowering as well helps to germinate seedlings.
Phosphorus is an essential plant nutrient, and since it is needed in large amounts, it is classified as a macronutrient. Phosphorus is a MAJOR important nutrient in the plants reproductive stages. Without this element the plants will have a lot of problems blooming without proper levels of Phosphorus.
When your plants are deficient in phosphorus, this can overall reduce the size of your plants. Not enough causes slow growth and causes the plant to become weak, to little amount of Phosphorus causes slow growths in leaves that may or may not drop off. The edges all around the leaves or half of the leaves can be brownish and work its way inwards a bit causing the part of the leaves to curl up in the air a bit. Fan leaves will show dark greenish/purplish and yellowish tones along with a dullish blue color to them. Sometimes the stems can be red, along with red petioles that can happen when having a Phosphorus deficiency. This isn’t a sure sure sign of you having one though, but can be a sign. Some strains just show the red petioles and stems from its genes.
So pretty much the overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint to the fan leaves is a good sign of a Phosphorus deficiency. Having Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can make phosphorous absorption very troublesome for plants.
Many people get a Phosphorus deficiency confused with a fungus problem because the ends of the leaves look like a fungus problem, But the damage occurs at the end of the leaves. side of the leaves and has a glass like feeling to it as if it had a ph problem. Parts affected by a phosphorus deficiency are: Older Leaves, Whole plant, Petioles.
Too much Phosphorus levels affect plant growth by suppressing the uptake of: Iron, potassium and Zinc, potentially causing deficiency symptoms of these nutrients to occur def in plants. A Zinc deficiency is most common under excessive phosphorus conditions,
As well as causing other nutrients to have absorption troubles like zinc and copper. Phosphorus fluctuates when concentrated and combined with calcium
Problems with Phosphorus being locked out by PH troubles
Cold wet soils, acid or very alkaline soils, compacted soil.
Soil
Phosphorus gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0-5.5
Phosphorus is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-7.5 (wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus deficiency.
Hydro and Soil less Mediums
Phosphorus gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 6.0-8.5.
Phosphorus is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0- 5.8. (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus Deficiency.
Solution to fixing a Phosphorus deficiency
Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Any chemical or organic fertilizers that have Phosphorus in them will fix a Phosphorus deficiency. If you have a phosphorus deficiency you should use any N-P-K ratio that is over 5.Again Peters all purpose 20-20-20 is a good mix. Miracle grow Tomato plant food, Miracle grow All purpose plant food (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!) Other forms of phosphorus supplements are: Bone meal, which is gradual absorption, I suggest making it into a tea for faster use, where bone/blood meal is slow acting, but when made into a tea it works quicker! Fruit eating bat guano, which is fast absorption, Worm castings, which is gradual absorption, Fish meal, which is medium absorption, Soft Rock Phosphate, which is medium absorption, Jamaican or Indonesian Guano, which is fast absorption. Crabshell, which is slow absorption. Tiger Bloom , which is fast absorption.
Here is a list of things to help fix a Phosphrus Deficiency.
Chemical
Advanced nutrients Bloom (0-5-4)
Vita Bloom (0-7-5)
BC Bloom (1.1-4.4-7)
GH Flora Bloom (0-5-4)
GH Maxi Bloom (5-15-14)
GH Floranova Bloom (4-8-7)
Dyna-Gro Bloom (3-12-6)
Fox Farm Tiger Bloom (2-8-4)
Awsome Blossums
Organic
Dr. Hornby's Iguana Juice Bloom (4-3-6)
Advanced Nutrients Mother Earth Bloom (.5-1.5-2)
Fox Farm Big Bloom (.01-.3-.7)
Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1)
Pure Blend Bloom (2.5-2-5)
Pure Blend Pro Bloom (2.5-2-5)
Buddswell (0-7-0)
Sea Island Jamaican Bat Guano (1-10-0)
Indonesian Bat Guano (0-13-0)
Rainbow Mix Bloom (1-9-2)
Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1)
BIO BLOOM (2-6-3.5)
AGE OLD BLOOM (5-10-5)
ALASKA MORBLOOM (0-10-10)
METANATURALS ORGANIC BLOOM (1-5-5)
Any of these will cure your phosphorus deficiency. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will appear normal.
Now if you added to much chemical ferts and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.
Note: Blood Meal, Dried Blood, Guanos, Kelp Meal, Cotton Seed Meal, Peat Moss,
Sulfur and fish meal are all acidic and can bring your ph down, so if you add these please monitor your ph when using those.
Note: Bone Meal, Rock Phosphate, Wood Ashes pretty much all ashes, Shellfish Compost and Crab Meal are all alkaline and can make your ph go up, so if you add any of these please monitor your ph.
Picture 1 is a Phosphorus deficiency during vegetative growth.
Picture 2 is what a phosphorus deficiency looks like in flowering.
(Picture 1 is Mine)
Benefit: Phosphorus does a lot of things for the plant. One of the most important parts of Phosphorus is: It aids in root growth and influences the vigor of the plant and is
one of the most important elements in flowering as well helps to germinate seedlings.
Phosphorus is an essential plant nutrient, and since it is needed in large amounts, it is classified as a macronutrient. Phosphorus is a MAJOR important nutrient in the plants reproductive stages. Without this element the plants will have a lot of problems blooming without proper levels of Phosphorus.
When your plants are deficient in phosphorus, this can overall reduce the size of your plants. Not enough causes slow growth and causes the plant to become weak, to little amount of Phosphorus causes slow growths in leaves that may or may not drop off. The edges all around the leaves or half of the leaves can be brownish and work its way inwards a bit causing the part of the leaves to curl up in the air a bit. Fan leaves will show dark greenish/purplish and yellowish tones along with a dullish blue color to them. Sometimes the stems can be red, along with red petioles that can happen when having a Phosphorus deficiency. This isn’t a sure sure sign of you having one though, but can be a sign. Some strains just show the red petioles and stems from its genes.
So pretty much the overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint to the fan leaves is a good sign of a Phosphorus deficiency. Having Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can make phosphorous absorption very troublesome for plants.
Many people get a Phosphorus deficiency confused with a fungus problem because the ends of the leaves look like a fungus problem, But the damage occurs at the end of the leaves. side of the leaves and has a glass like feeling to it as if it had a ph problem. Parts affected by a phosphorus deficiency are: Older Leaves, Whole plant, Petioles.
Too much Phosphorus levels affect plant growth by suppressing the uptake of: Iron, potassium and Zinc, potentially causing deficiency symptoms of these nutrients to occur def in plants. A Zinc deficiency is most common under excessive phosphorus conditions,
As well as causing other nutrients to have absorption troubles like zinc and copper. Phosphorus fluctuates when concentrated and combined with calcium
Problems with Phosphorus being locked out by PH troubles
Cold wet soils, acid or very alkaline soils, compacted soil.
Soil
Phosphorus gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0-5.5
Phosphorus is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-7.5 (wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus deficiency.
Hydro and Soil less Mediums
Phosphorus gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 6.0-8.5.
Phosphorus is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0- 5.8. (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus Deficiency.
Solution to fixing a Phosphorus deficiency
Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Any chemical or organic fertilizers that have Phosphorus in them will fix a Phosphorus deficiency. If you have a phosphorus deficiency you should use any N-P-K ratio that is over 5.Again Peters all purpose 20-20-20 is a good mix. Miracle grow Tomato plant food, Miracle grow All purpose plant food (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!) Other forms of phosphorus supplements are: Bone meal, which is gradual absorption, I suggest making it into a tea for faster use, where bone/blood meal is slow acting, but when made into a tea it works quicker! Fruit eating bat guano, which is fast absorption, Worm castings, which is gradual absorption, Fish meal, which is medium absorption, Soft Rock Phosphate, which is medium absorption, Jamaican or Indonesian Guano, which is fast absorption. Crabshell, which is slow absorption. Tiger Bloom , which is fast absorption.
Here is a list of things to help fix a Phosphrus Deficiency.
Chemical
Advanced nutrients Bloom (0-5-4)
Vita Bloom (0-7-5)
BC Bloom (1.1-4.4-7)
GH Flora Bloom (0-5-4)
GH Maxi Bloom (5-15-14)
GH Floranova Bloom (4-8-7)
Dyna-Gro Bloom (3-12-6)
Fox Farm Tiger Bloom (2-8-4)
Awsome Blossums
Organic
Dr. Hornby's Iguana Juice Bloom (4-3-6)
Advanced Nutrients Mother Earth Bloom (.5-1.5-2)
Fox Farm Big Bloom (.01-.3-.7)
Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1)
Pure Blend Bloom (2.5-2-5)
Pure Blend Pro Bloom (2.5-2-5)
Buddswell (0-7-0)
Sea Island Jamaican Bat Guano (1-10-0)
Indonesian Bat Guano (0-13-0)
Rainbow Mix Bloom (1-9-2)
Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1)
BIO BLOOM (2-6-3.5)
AGE OLD BLOOM (5-10-5)
ALASKA MORBLOOM (0-10-10)
METANATURALS ORGANIC BLOOM (1-5-5)
Any of these will cure your phosphorus deficiency. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will appear normal.
Now if you added to much chemical ferts and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.
Note: Blood Meal, Dried Blood, Guanos, Kelp Meal, Cotton Seed Meal, Peat Moss,
Sulfur and fish meal are all acidic and can bring your ph down, so if you add these please monitor your ph when using those.
Note: Bone Meal, Rock Phosphate, Wood Ashes pretty much all ashes, Shellfish Compost and Crab Meal are all alkaline and can make your ph go up, so if you add any of these please monitor your ph.
Picture 1 is a Phosphorus deficiency during vegetative growth.
Picture 2 is what a phosphorus deficiency looks like in flowering.
(Picture 1 is Mine)
HondaVixen
Member
pictures arent going through - so one person says mag. deficiency and you're saying phosphorus......... Now I'm at the point where they should be flushing, and I'm just chopping them down to not fuck anything anymore... So, whatever. Never had this issue before, hope never will.
mygirls
Medical Marijuana (MOD)
go the full flower cycle feeding them then the last few days give them water..
Dude,
Those plants aren't even close to done. Pick out the dead leaves and let them finish. It looks like you have another 2-3 weeks minimum... Then, you must remember that you have a "window" of peak harvest that is about a week. I would probably just let them go for another 2 weeks minimum before I started to flush.. Just flush with RO water or Distilled water. Are you using any type of boost at all? Did you use a PK solution during flowering? Just don't look like your buds are swelling much..
Those plants aren't even close to done. Pick out the dead leaves and let them finish. It looks like you have another 2-3 weeks minimum... Then, you must remember that you have a "window" of peak harvest that is about a week. I would probably just let them go for another 2 weeks minimum before I started to flush.. Just flush with RO water or Distilled water. Are you using any type of boost at all? Did you use a PK solution during flowering? Just don't look like your buds are swelling much..
Da420Monkey
Active Member
i would suggest not to foliar feed ever while flowering!!!
Da420Monkey
Active Member
it is either one or the other check out thhis link ther pics are they it will show mag and phos, you can see the differences....http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688
HondaVixen
Member
Lessons Learned, thanks for the information everyone. Luckily that was my last bout with soil, and have moved on to StinkBuds system. Looking forward to many more trials and triumphs with you guys,
thatdjsnow
Well-Known Member
btw... you're flowering under 400w Metal Halides? since that is all you have right.... or are they HPS? I'm not totally clear...
if you are using MH, try to get an HPS up in that bitch... try to sell or trade a mh for hps... something... you need that lower light spectrum.
if you are using MH, try to get an HPS up in that bitch... try to sell or trade a mh for hps... something... you need that lower light spectrum.