Water and PH spikes? Please help?

Bareback

Well-Known Member
I did notice after 24 hrs of using the distilled that it only jumped .5 instead of 1.4 so that's already reassuring. I'm still planning to go to my local walmart to find out if I can get RO water. I'm pleased to find at least it's a slower rise. I actually like the concept of a ph swing to allow access to nutrients at all levels but obviously I don't want to add more ph down than necessary.
I got a RO system 5 stage 99$ off eBay / Amazon . My RO is 2 , it was 170 .
 

Harvester315

Well-Known Member
I got a RO system 5 stage 99$ off eBay / Amazon . My RO is 2 , it was 170 .
I refuse to use ebay based on a bad experience. My account was hacked and I decided I would close it. But since I had "made a purchase" within 90 days (by said hacker) they wouldn't let me close it. Instead I had to change all my security info, and it got hacked and had purchases made again within a week. Started the whole issue all over again.

Completely irrelevant but I cannot use ebay as I no longer have nor will have an account lol.

I definitely would like an RO system but I may just wait until I move in the near future when I plan to have a larger operation anyways.

I am however pleased to report that I have had only a .6 ph swing up in the last 48 hrs using the distilled. If I get less than 1 point all week I'll be very pleased, like previously mentioned I like the concept of a swing through the range to allow more nutrient uptake.
 

Harvester315

Well-Known Member
Well for anyone following this thread, tap water certainly caused the swing as ecery other variable was the same but for the change to distilled water. I did go to Walmart and found out that they do indeed have an RO machine here. And much cheaper than my distilled which is about .89 a gallon. The RO will fall about 2.00 for 5 gallons. So my final question:

Besides for the obvious cost savings, is the RO the better option?
 

CannabisNerd

Well-Known Member
I prefer my tap water. As long as the pH is decent, tap water has chlorine in it which fights bad stuff that can grow in the res and plants use as a micro nutrient. All tap water is different, though. With ro you'll need calmag. My tap water is public water but is only .15ec (100ppm) and 7.0ph. The pH swings for the first 24-48hrs with most tap water, it never stays the same after mixing nutes or just letting it sit out. That is completely normal. My pH swings about .5 within 24 hrs but then stays put until I add more water and nutrients.
 

Harvester315

Well-Known Member
Thanks for that insight. I may end up doing a mix of tap and RO just for the positive qualities in each. The bad thing with my tap (like you said it varies greatly) is the ph swing in less than 24 hours was more than 1.3. Not so great. My distilled was about 1 in 4 days. And when I do my next change I will try just RO. Then I will have a solid base for 3 different water types and go from there.
 

CannabisNerd

Well-Known Member
Thanks for that insight. I may end up doing a mix of tap and RO just for the positive qualities in each. The bad thing with my tap (like you said it varies greatly) is the ph swing in less than 24 hours was more than 1.3. Not so great. My distilled was about 1 in 4 days. And when I do my next change I will try just RO. Then I will have a solid base for 3 different water types and go from there.
Sounds like a great idea. Just make sure to add calmag first to the ro water, ro water needs to be cleated (I think that's the term lol, I may have used the wrong word though) but at any rate, it needs the calmag to bond the water, or something along those lines
 

Harvester315

Well-Known Member
Well, to anyone who may be following this...

I did another change with distilled water (I was unable to get the RO water yet, and by unable I mean too lazy to drive the 15 mins when distilled is 2 mins away..., however when I do go I have about 12 x 5Gallon water jugs I can fill up and only go once per grow or so :-D )

The good news is that the plant is responding WONDERFULLY to the distilled water. The PH swung exactly 1.1 in 7 days which I deem acceptable, especially for the benefits the plant gets from the nutrients it can uptake in each range. I bumped up my nutes, I am following this schedule

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=GH+DWC+nutrient+chart&view=detailv2&&id=4031A3FAB056B1B76EB8D6777D3ADD94D43866C4&selectedIndex=12&ccid=3RYvTyCT&simid=607995747709485380&thid=OIP.Mdd162f4f209349a15e92e0eaacd83fb9o0&ajaxhist=0

... I am not recirculating but bubbling, but so far seems to be responding well. I started a grow journal that I am hoping to keep up on.
http://rollitup.org/Journal/harvester315.930847/
 

ThaMagnificent

Well-Known Member
I refuse to use ebay based on a bad experience. My account was hacked and I decided I would close it. But since I had "made a purchase" within 90 days (by said hacker) they wouldn't let me close it. Instead I had to change all my security info, and it got hacked and had purchases made again within a week. Started the whole issue all over again.

Completely irrelevant but I cannot use ebay as I no longer have nor will have an account lol.

I definitely would like an RO system but I may just wait until I move in the near future when I plan to have a larger operation anyways.

I am however pleased to report that I have had only a .6 ph swing up in the last 48 hrs using the distilled. If I get less than 1 point all week I'll be very pleased, like previously mentioned I like the concept of a swing through the range to allow more nutrient uptake.
Get a Hydrologic. I think some of the older models are on sale because they got some new ones coming out
 

whitey78

Well-Known Member
Be on the watch for algae as well... nothing like root rot/pythium but thrives like a boss in the same conditions that our plants do, highly oxygenated, nutrient rich water, all it needs is a smidge of light to set it off... you can do I did being the seasoned (soil) grower I am... I went out n bought my first flood n drain tray for my first hydro grow and I bought a white table that holds a little water each flood in the channels after it drains that gives algae the perfect place to grow so by the time my weekly res change comes around I have snot on my pumps and hoses etc.... but what I was getting at is it'll fuck with your ph as well... usually up... down u gotta worry about root rot... but even after light proofing all my hoses n went nuts cleaning n bleaching n whatever else... it comes back to the white table being the perfect harbinger of algae so I'm gonna throw some of that weed block stuff over it n hopefully that does it.. but the algae and my hydroton (even after washing it and soaking it 9000 times) drove me ph crazy for the first couple weeks...

I've been using a hydrologic RO maker that has a permeation pump which adds back 15-30ppm of cal/mag after it strips the water of everything... still gotta add some calmag after the fact but not as much...

A bit pricey but it makes 1:1 usable:waste water which is pretty decent since RO is a fairly wasteful setup unless u buy.a decent one... but 130 gallons per day has been enough for me up till recently but I get by with it... I will eventually need to get either a second RO maker or a bigger one in general... but I have mine hooked up to a 55 gallon drum with a float valve that refills as I use it...

http://www.theperfectwater.com/Tap-Master-Artesian-Hydro-Gardener-Pro-Remineralizing-Reverse-Osmosis-Water-Filtration-System.html

I didnt notice if u we're running a sterile res or an organic setup but a sterile res product like h202 is a good investment... there's quite a few products that do the same thing but I like the h202... I run my simple 3 part nutes, blue planet but I just ran out, I use pro-tekt silica, and general organics cal mag... zero veg clones on my first run are looking good even though I am battling the algae issue on and off but plan to have it worked out....

Once you get your nute levels based on plant age/requirements and your water situation straight your ph issues will go away... if u need to adjust up, try using a silica product...down either some cal mag or a small amount of nutes when u top off... RO water is all over the place if u don't know what to expect because it has nothing to hold the ph steady so the most minute amount of ph up or down sends it way in whatever direction which is why I try to use small amounts of nutes....

But good luck man... I have more than 5 years in soil n hydro is like starting new again... I recently moved and my tons of recycled soil that needs mixing etc isn't a possibility so I decided to try hydro going from organic water only soil... talk about a hypocrite.... but good luck.... I know I need it...
 

Sanctifried

Member
Thanks for that insight. I may end up doing a mix of tap and RO just for the positive qualities in each. The bad thing with my tap (like you said it varies greatly) is the ph swing in less than 24 hours was more than 1.3. Not so great. My distilled was about 1 in 4 days. And when I do my next change I will try just RO. Then I will have a solid base for 3 different water types and go from there.
Honestly I would not obsess with RO so much, it has nothing to do with PH. PH fluctuates all of the time, it changes every time the water rinses through your hydroponic media. It's one of those things we all need to check(usually) every other day at the least.

The only reason i would go RO is if: 1. your tap water sucks badly, and 2. if you want to max out your ppm with pure nutrients.

There is a lot more to growing than PPM and keeping your PH perfect, don't sweat the fluctuations.. that's just what happens with Ebb and Flow and as long as it doesnt stay around 4 or 7 for too long then you're fine.

Also, PH with lower numbers is a higher PH and vice versa, so from going from 6.5 to 5.5 that would be raising the PH.
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Honestly I would not obsess with RO so much, it has nothing to do with PH. PH fluctuates all of the time, it changes every time the water rinses through your hydroponic media. It's one of those things we all need to check(usually) every other day at the least.

The only reason i would go RO is if: 1. your tap water sucks badly, and 2. if you want to max out your ppm with pure nutrients.

There is a lot more to growing than PPM and keeping your PH perfect, don't sweat the fluctuations.. that's just what happens with Ebb and Flow and as long as it doesnt stay around 4 or 7 for too long then you're fine.

Also, PH with lower numbers is a higher PH and vice versa, so from going from 6.5 to 5.5 that would be raising the PH.
Actually tap water does fuck with PH due to the buffers in it, not all tap water mind you, but lots. I use well water and I have to add 3-4x the amount as I would with RO but it is stable. Took me a bit to dial it in re nutes and a few additives but it's working nicely. I would use RO but it's not feasible.
 

Sanctifried

Member
Actually tap water does fuck with PH due to the buffers in it, not all tap water mind you, but lots. I use well water and I have to add 3-4x the amount as I would with RO but it is stable. Took me a bit to dial it in re nutes and a few additives but it's working nicely. I would use RO but it's not feasible.
Yeah, my tap water requires 1 dose of acid per gallon and its always at 5.8 after.. everyone just has to get used to their water! RO is faking expensive... But yeah, Harvester315, use Silicate it really helps stabilize PH if you're having issues.
 

Harvester315

Well-Known Member
Be on the watch for algae as well... nothing like root rot/pythium but thrives like a boss in the same conditions that our plants do, highly oxygenated, nutrient rich water, all it needs is a smidge of light to set it off... you can do I did being the seasoned (soil) grower I am... I went out n bought my first flood n drain tray for my first hydro grow and I bought a white table that holds a little water each flood in the channels after it drains that gives algae the perfect place to grow so by the time my weekly res change comes around I have snot on my pumps and hoses etc.... but what I was getting at is it'll fuck with your ph as well... usually up... down u gotta worry about root rot... but even after light proofing all my hoses n went nuts cleaning n bleaching n whatever else... it comes back to the white table being the perfect harbinger of algae so I'm gonna throw some of that weed block stuff over it n hopefully that does it.. but the algae and my hydroton (even after washing it and soaking it 9000 times) drove me ph crazy for the first couple weeks...

I've been using a hydrologic RO maker that has a permeation pump which adds back 15-30ppm of cal/mag after it strips the water of everything... still gotta add some calmag after the fact but not as much...

A bit pricey but it makes 1:1 usable:waste water which is pretty decent since RO is a fairly wasteful setup unless u buy.a decent one... but 130 gallons per day has been enough for me up till recently but I get by with it... I will eventually need to get either a second RO maker or a bigger one in general... but I have mine hooked up to a 55 gallon drum with a float valve that refills as I use it...

http://www.theperfectwater.com/Tap-Master-Artesian-Hydro-Gardener-Pro-Remineralizing-Reverse-Osmosis-Water-Filtration-System.html

I didnt notice if u we're running a sterile res or an organic setup but a sterile res product like h202 is a good investment... there's quite a few products that do the same thing but I like the h202... I run my simple 3 part nutes, blue planet but I just ran out, I use pro-tekt silica, and general organics cal mag... zero veg clones on my first run are looking good even though I am battling the algae issue on and off but plan to have it worked out....

Once you get your nute levels based on plant age/requirements and your water situation straight your ph issues will go away... if u need to adjust up, try using a silica product...down either some cal mag or a small amount of nutes when u top off... RO water is all over the place if u don't know what to expect because it has nothing to hold the ph steady so the most minute amount of ph up or down sends it way in whatever direction which is why I try to use small amounts of nutes....

But good luck man... I have more than 5 years in soil n hydro is like starting new again... I recently moved and my tons of recycled soil that needs mixing etc isn't a possibility so I decided to try hydro going from organic water only soil... talk about a hypocrite.... but good luck.... I know I need it...

I noticed I had a bit of slime in my first two res changes, then when I started to cover the hydroton with a mylar sheet its practically zero when I change it out, it would coat my air lines the first few weeks.




Also as far as water, distilled has a reasonable swing for me, but my tap was making it swing insanely high, and at the time that was the ONLY change I had made in 3 weeks so I know it was the water causing the PH swing.
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
I noticed I had a bit of slime in my first two res changes, then when I started to cover the hydroton with a mylar sheet its practically zero when I change it out, it would coat my air lines the first few weeks.




Also as far as water, distilled has a reasonable swing for me, but my tap was making it swing insanely high, and at the time that was the ONLY change I had made in 3 weeks so I know it was the water causing the PH swing.
Are your lines light proof? The algae could be a cause of the swing as well.
 

Yesdog

Well-Known Member
get a big bucket or water butt or 60 to 200L waste bin

and a good air pump

ph to ph5.......... I like to add some potassium silicate then I use ph down get it to ph5, then add a water butt treatment and some bennies and trycorr I add fulvic acid too

your probably just need to use ph down and a water conditioner but potassium silicate is good stuff I use it 1st as it puts the ph up a bit

Ok so leave your water to bubble, you`ll notice ph5 in a week should end up around ph6.5 depends on your water, keep the light out of your water

doing hydro with tap water without chambering it and conditioning it for 3 days to a week or so is just silly unless you your there for 3 days when you do the res change and ph every few hours or have a big uber system that you`ve dialed in to be able to take topping up or 50% to 90% res changes

Good luck mate
This is great advice! I only recently started conditioning my tap water for use, and it's a very long process, but at the end you can definitely get a stable pH. Day 1 is getting rid of any trapped CO2 and chlorine (air stones), your pH will rise, but the water is now set to actually break the carbonate buffers and gets rid of extra chlorine.

I'm still trying to figure out exactly when/how to try and break the carbonate buffers. Silica additive are best dissolved at a low ph, and breaking Calcium Carbonate without causing precipitation is pretty hard- best acids are nitrate, acetate, sulfate, citrate (in order). So it's best to actually break the buffers with nitric acid, but still trying to figure out how to handle silica in that time frame.

Phosphoric acid (GH pH Down) is the worst thing to use for dealing with carbonate buffers. Citric acid is supposed to complement calcium carbonate well (as a cooperative buffer), and chelates Calcium, but still need to play around with that one more.

you using phosphoric acid based ph down ? maybe use a nitric acid based for your 2nd ph`ing comboing nitric based and phosphoric base may stabilize out what ever is reacting

If using a citric based ph down I`d expect to have to re-ph every 1 to 4 days for sure
I'm figuring out the key is different acids at different times. GH pH down makes most sense to use for ph adjustments after things are neutralized- it replaces N and P which are naturally removed by your plants and make the ph rise. Nitric acid seems to be best for breaking carbonate buffers, and sulfuric acid seems to be a good substitute for nitric, but if you have really hard water you might want to use nitric.

I finally got this sorted solubility list, and I have literally been pasting it everywhere... but its definitely helpful.

Calcium nitrate 121.2
Magnesium nitrate 69.5
Magnesium acetate 53.4
Magnesium sulfate 35.1
Calcium acetate 34.7
Magnesium citrate 20
Calcium sulfate 0.255
Calcium citrate 0.095 (25 °C)
Magnesium carbonate 0.039
Calcium phosphate 0.002
Calcium carbonate (Calcite) 6.17×10−4
Magnesium phosphate 2.588×10−4
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
I had a hell of a time stabilizing using sulphuric acid and went back phosphoric acid at 85%, still adding 30ml per 100L, I also use an amino acid product that seems to help as well, it got rid of the leaf blotching also :).
 

Yesdog

Well-Known Member
I had a hell of a time stabilizing using sulphuric acid and went back phosphoric acid at 85%, still adding 30ml per 100L, I also use an amino acid product that seems to help as well, it got rid of the leaf blotching also :).
Yea the GH pH down will definitely be more stable (I think phosphates in general) so pretty sure that'll be my main one after the mix ready. Which amino acid thing?
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
get a big bucket or water butt or 60 to 200L waste bin

and a good air pump

ph to ph5.......... I like to add some potassium silicate then I use ph down get it to ph5, then add a water butt treatment and some bennies and trycorr I add fulvic acid too

your probably just need to use ph down and a water conditioner but potassium silicate is good stuff I use it 1st as it puts the ph up a bit

Ok so leave your water to bubble, you`ll notice ph5 in a week should end up around ph6.5 depends on your water, keep the light out of your water

doing hydro with tap water without chambering it and conditioning it for 3 days to a week or so is just silly unless you your there for 3 days when you do the res change and ph every few hours or have a big uber system that you`ve dialed in to be able to take topping up or 50% to 90% res changes

Good luck mate
I have never let mine sit but it's well water so no chlorine. I ph at time of refill and it's stable for 1-2 weeks then starts to rise quickly, and that's when I swap it out. Only took three years and a chiller to dial it in though lol.
 
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