Dude watching him trim that thing hurt my soul. Like i know it needed to be defol'ed but that was painful lmao. When i do pruning i try and do it over a week or a couple days as to not freak it out so much, but to each their own. Im pretty sure he knows what he is doing too, apparently hes been in the game for a little while.
I had no clue about the drift phenomenon you're talking about. I was hoping I could ask you the best way to go about the flush. I know there are flushing products out there. I was looking at the FoxFarm "Bush Doctor" Sledgehammer product earlier. I don't know if something like that would be in order? Or, if I could simply pH adjust some tap water and give the plant that. Like GreenestBasterd stated, I am probably getting pretty close to the point where I should be concluding my nutrient regimen anyway.
Go with good ole plain ph'd water with a very very light feed in it to leach the soil.
That sounds nice and easy to do. The only reservation I have about your suggestion stems from what I have read in the past. From my understanding, when a person flushes their plant towards the end of the grow, the leaves change dramatically in a yellowing fashion. So, I am afraid to do it early like this if it might result in more discoloration.
Hence the light ,full nutrient dose...the amount you put through will clear any built up salts, whilst leaving food behind. You should have a better understanding of what may be happening after.
Next up in my feeding regimen (details in my first post) are 6 Teaspoons of FoxFarm Big Bloom (the organic fertilizer) and 1/5 Teaspoon of Molasses. If I cut that down to say 2 Teaspoons of Big Bloom and no Molasses, I am wondering if that could do anything beneficial.
Molasses is mostly for the beneficial bacteria that are in the soil anyway, a little over doing it wont give it any nutrient burn. I imagine way too much could possibly lock some other nutrient out tho, but i dont know for sure. Yeah i second what FastFreddi said about flushing but with a low dose of nutrients in the regular tap water that you use. That way you are flushing out any stupid excess that you might have any are still leaving the plant with some to work with.
All of this is most excellent Sir.
Yes I do believe he knows what he's talking about. I followed his advice of getting rid of anything that didn't break the halfway point in plant height. Admittedly, the plant did look pretty sparse afterward, but I gave it a few days to recover before flipping. Over the course of a week or two it really filled out nicely. I am going back to growing Auto-flowers next time. With recovery time being an issue, I probably won't be able to do it the same way.
Hmm. So far on the two photoperiods that i have growing ive only done LST and i guess i plan on topping it at one point. II am in the process of germinating an auto for the hell of it and knowing it will be fairly easy to just blast it with light, dont screw it up, and just let it roll. I suppose ill see how it goes haha. I know with autos you have to be careful because of the limited time frame, but i am really curious how you would treat an auto. I suppose just LST and light defol if possible, maybe no topping?
They say LST is completely safe for Autos. Many Auto growers get all the results they really need from that in terms of yield. Topping has always been a controversial subject with Autos. Though, this article seems to indicate yes it's OK if the plant is healthy:
www.growweedeasy.com
Haha no worries. I tried something like that too and my "clone" was a complete fail!They say LST is completely safe for Autos. Many Auto growers get all the results they really need from that in terms of yield. Topping has always been a controversial subject with Autos. Though, this article seems to indicate yes it's OK if the plant is healthy:
Can I top an auto-flowering cannabis plant? | Grow Weed Easy
by Nebula Haze Yes, you can top an auto-flowering plant that is growing fast and healthy. For example if it has grown at least 4-5 nodes (pairs of "real" leaves) by the end of week 2. Otherwise it may not be growing fast enough to handle topping without getting stunted. Read on to learn more!
I would personally approach defoliation on a leaf-by-leaf basis. I don't think I would do a broad sweep with an Auto like I did with Wilma Wonka.
On a side note, you might be on to something with that "red stem" thing. I reviewed an older photo of my plant and don't see the red stems as much. Now I am starting to question whether or not the pen tester I have been using for pH testing is calibrated right. Then again, I suppose red stems could be a genetic trait that comes out with maturity for this strain, too.
30 days from soil breach (pictured)
80 days from soil breach currently
View attachment 4766851
Please ignore my poorly executed first attempt at cloning on the right
I dunno man. curious2garden says turn the lights up. You say turn the lights down.
Ok, youre right. I would take our advice, use it too see if you can narrow down the problem and when you think your pretty sure, apply one of our solutions and see if it works. Thats really the only way when working with things like this. I can give you advice based on just what i see, but only you are there hand and hand with your plants. Ill shut up and if you need someone to shout out to im here.
You know, the more I think about it, the more I am starting to believe some of the earliest posters on this Thread had the right idea. I am going go simply let the plant "fade out." It's approaching the end of it's life cycle.