Well water analysis

Hello,

In the past I've used RO water for hydroponics but now I'm wanting to get away from it. Instead of the hassle using\getting multiple RO units and holding tanks for refilling large reservoirs (ebb and flow).

My well water is around 270 ppm. Can I just get a water analysis done by someone such as jr peters labs and see what components are in my water?

I have nutrient salts, and could customize my nutrient formula to my well water.

I imagine this is done quite a bit in commercial agriculture.

Anyone around here do this?

thanks,

- Jiji

Yep. Just account for the calcium and iron in the well water.

pH stability will be the issue to contend with

Just use nitric acid as pH down, and use slightly less calcium nitrate. You're using dry salts, right?

CaCO3 + 2HNO3 --> Ca(NO3)2 + CO2 + H2O

So you end up with the same thing.

Yup, all correct. You could use sulfuric acid (sold at auto stores), or phosphoric acid (sold as a powder to create your own concentrate) as well and account for them the same way.

churchhaze said:

Just use nitric acid as pH down, and use slightly less calcium nitrate. You're using dry salts, right?

CaCO3 + 2HNO3 --> Ca(NO3)2 + CO2 + H2O

So you end up with the same thing.

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Yes. Thank you.

- Jiji

jijiandfarmgang said:

Hello,

In the past I've used RO water for hydroponics but now I'm wanting to get away from it. Instead of the hassle using\getting multiple RO units and holding tanks for refilling large reservoirs (ebb and flow).

My well water is around 270 ppm. Can I just get a water analysis done by someone such as jr peters labs and see what components are in my water?

I have nutrient salts, and could customize my nutrient formula to my well water.

I imagine this is done quite a bit in commercial agriculture.

Anyone around here do this?

thanks,

- Jiji

Click to expand...

No, but that would be the best way to get where you want to go. 270ppm is not bad. My well water is 830! I collect rainwater in a 305 g. Norwesco tank.

What is the bicarbs ppm? Alkalinity?

jiji to get your water tested call your local ag agent for your state or county, they should do it or point you in the right direction. i use these guys for a lot of things even pest control questions. they are there for anything related to farming and live stock.

This is where I get my soil and water tested. The reports are very comprehensive and easy to understand....just what this old pHart needs.
http://soiltesting.tamu.edu/

I actually prefer my well water ( 330 ppm, 220 ppm of calcium Carbonate, 50 ppm of iron) over my RO water.

jarvild said:

I actually prefer my well water ( 330 ppm, 220 ppm of calcium Carbonate, 50 ppm of iron) over my RO water.

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Considering plants love both of those elements, I'd go with the well water too.

Have never had mine tested but very high calcium so I use low calcium nutes or I get mag lockout. Epsom salt foiler feed has remedied that as well as adding to res for long term fix.

Uncle Ben said:

No, but that would be the best way to get where you want to go. 270ppm is not bad. My well water is 830! I collect rainwater in a 305 g. Norwesco tank.

What is the bicarbs ppm? Alkalinity?

Click to expand...

I'll post the results when I get them, it will take probably a week.

It seems like there's frozen temps about 8 months of the year here, so no rainwater collection now.

- Jiji

Many countys/towns will pay for you to have your well tested every so many years ,Some even do it themselves

Right now at 'home depot' Their doing free tests trying to sell RO systems (I have no clue how accurate their tests are but their free)

Also dig around the USGS site, they archive well water tests/results , Wont be exact but it should give you a idea

LIBERTYCHICKEN said:

Many countys/towns will pay for you to have your well tested every so many years ,Some even do it themselves

Right now at 'home depot' Their doing free tests trying to sell RO systems (I have no clue how accurate their tests are but their free)

Also dig around the USGS site, they archive well water tests/results , Wont be exact but it should give you a idea

Click to expand...

Maybe your thinking of drinking water quality? My well tested positive for coliform bacteria, bleached it, and now tested negative. In my municipality I had to pay.

- Jiji

Yup free here as well but only fecal and chloroform. You should get a uv light if it tests positive for it.

Submit tests to a certified lab that will test for pH and all minerals, alkalinity, EC, etc. TX A&M is one such lab.

Well, I finally got the my analysis report back. I submitted it to Texas A&M just for you UB.

I was off a lot on what I thought the ppm was, I'll have to check that out again.

- Jiji

That's fairly hard water and the pH is high but not near as "limiting" as mine. Suggests the source is limestone based. You could always bring the pH down with sulfuric acid and once that's done it should be OK for hydro. Depends on your management.

I don't do hydro but I would think your plants would love the sulfates of Ca and Mg. Boron content is about right on, B being required for good flowering and pollination performance.

Good luck

Yeah you have a lot of bicarbonate so you're going to use a crap lot of acid. The sulfuric acid is probably fine for dirt(buffers nutes) and fine for older plants but just remember that if you're starting seedlings...

30% sulfuric acid = 30g/100mL = 30000mg/100mL = 30000ppm/100mL

Now if you use say 2mL of acid per gallon (you'll likely need more though) you have (30000/100mL)*2mL = 600ppm H2SO4
the molecular weight is ~90 and sulfur is ~30 so roughly one third of that would be just from the sulfur itself. So now you have 200ppm of pure sulfur per gallon of water. Again, probably fine in a soil that can buffer and for older plants but don't be dumping that on your seedlings.

Your sodium is also a bit high...you did run your water for a few minutes too right before you took the sample? You need to do that so that any precipitate in your pipes doesn't throw off the readings.

Wait...you have a water softener don't you? You took this sample from softened water...didn't you? I just ask because your bicarbonate is super high, your magnesium and calcium aren't tiny, and your hardness is super low 15grains/gallon.

A water softener replaced the Mg and Ca ions on the CO3 with a Na ion. Na can kill your plants because it is taken up first before all other minerals. I don't really grow your plant so I can't say for sure if this is a no go or not because I've heard it both ways.