What Do You Think?
- Thread starter jj7414
- Start date
Dan Kone
Well-Known Member
yeah. you kinda have to be out in the cuts to do a setup like mine. Just keep reinvesting until you end up with a system big enough!
calicko
Well-Known Member
JJ...I honestly think this is the most back and forth thread ive seen in this website!!!
Ditch the Halogen light!!!!! Get a 50W fluoro or even 35W for your lil ones, make sure its around 3500 Kelvin or near Daylight spectrum.
Invest in some REAL pots and transplant them soon.
Keep the MG, lose the the MG plant food though. With the Guano, you have more than enough fert for the plants life if watered right.
Its up to you wether you want to transplant and bury them to the coty's or not, either way, they'll live.
Lose that reflective shit you have up and replace it with some kind of white colored material. That reflective material you're using is sure to focus the light you have on some part of the plants and fry the shit out of them! Dont use a mirror, or aluminum foil, it'll reflect the light all crazy like. Mylar or a custom build plywood box painted flat white.
And please stop overwatering your babies for crying out loud....Im using MC MG with coco fiber and it never looks like your medium!!!
Im not here to say anyones ideas are bad or that mine are better, just giving you some positive feedback, so all you out there reading this, stop and think before you come with the bad mouthing.
Good luck JJ
Ditch the Halogen light!!!!! Get a 50W fluoro or even 35W for your lil ones, make sure its around 3500 Kelvin or near Daylight spectrum.
Invest in some REAL pots and transplant them soon.
Keep the MG, lose the the MG plant food though. With the Guano, you have more than enough fert for the plants life if watered right.
Its up to you wether you want to transplant and bury them to the coty's or not, either way, they'll live.
Lose that reflective shit you have up and replace it with some kind of white colored material. That reflective material you're using is sure to focus the light you have on some part of the plants and fry the shit out of them! Dont use a mirror, or aluminum foil, it'll reflect the light all crazy like. Mylar or a custom build plywood box painted flat white.
And please stop overwatering your babies for crying out loud....Im using MC MG with coco fiber and it never looks like your medium!!!
Im not here to say anyones ideas are bad or that mine are better, just giving you some positive feedback, so all you out there reading this, stop and think before you come with the bad mouthing.
Good luck JJ
I know this thread is ass backwards but I'm using mylar aka space blanket I'm not over wateringi water them once a week some weeks its dry by day 2-3 another week it won't by dry by day 5-7 so I'm watching the water I got rid of them lights and picked up 2 100 watt cfl and my soil is mg paralite and 1 part top soil and I got different nutes as well
My goal is to provide my wife with a beautiful flower I my self don't really smoke but she does for pain ( she is less of a bitch to me too when she smokes lol ) this is my first grow so I'm doing my beat to hear everyone out here are some new pictures below let me know what you think thanks
My goal is to provide my wife with a beautiful flower I my self don't really smoke but she does for pain ( she is less of a bitch to me too when she smokes lol ) this is my first grow so I'm doing my beat to hear everyone out here are some new pictures below let me know what you think thanks
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that fan closeup looks like you got spider mites....been a while since i had them but those yellow specks are an indication they are sucking chlorophyll out of your leaves. Hopefully I'm wrong but it doesn't hurt to look. they are almost too small to see so look really close, they look like black specks but they crawl.
have no idea what riddles method is....just water them by hand when they get dry, not like you have very many of them. The fan won't dry out the center and bottom, thats where your roots are. The top inch doesn't matter. You could put some clean rocks or hydroton on the top if you're really concerned about it.
They look good unless you have mites.
have no idea what riddles method is....just water them by hand when they get dry, not like you have very many of them. The fan won't dry out the center and bottom, thats where your roots are. The top inch doesn't matter. You could put some clean rocks or hydroton on the top if you're really concerned about it.
They look good unless you have mites.
You should invest in a HPS light too, those tubes don't cut it, its like trying to cook a gourmet meal with ingredients from 7-11.
In other words, you'r limiting yourself before you even begin. If you insist on not getting a real light, make sure they are T5's and get them as close as possible, they won't burn them unless they physically touch it.
In other words, you'r limiting yourself before you even begin. If you insist on not getting a real light, make sure they are T5's and get them as close as possible, they won't burn them unless they physically touch it.
The pic was blury but when you see yellow specks, always check the bottom of the leaves. Glad to hear it wasn't, can be impossible to get rid of. Nitrogen def won't speck the leaves, it'll yellow the whole leaf evenly from the bottom up, starting with lime green and then going to yellow, just means the plant is feeding on itself. they look fine, don't trip on your plants too much, you'll end up fixing something that doesn't exist and then they'll really be sick. Just go easy on the nutes, ph the water and don't water too much and you'll be fine. You still need a HPS though....lol
dannyboy602
Well-Known Member
there is soooo much misinformation on this thread my head is spinning.
i saw some minor burn issues...nadda prob...yet
u need more than the light u have to grow. ur gonna increase to mb a t5? or even 400W HPS? or even a 300W LED? even a 125 W full spectrum floro ($125.00)...the leaves are bleached out a little and that makes me think it's not getting enough light energy. but it could be the light fom the camera? no mites yet either. wanna test for mites? put a sheet of white paper under the plant. shake. some mites will fall off. if u wipe the paper with ur hand you'll see blood streaks. internodal spacing tells me they really want MORE light energy.
Be very careful how much u feed at this stage. MG? I've never used their brand of nutes but they are NO different from most others. the plant doesnt discern from MG or Jacks (UB used Jacks and Im not about to argue with a master grower)or any other form of NPK. there is no such thing as MJ specific fertilizer unless it's packaged that way and is meant to fool kids, not professional growers. at this juncture i think you're still in good shape. dont over fert . u can give them some molasses/sugar daddy. it won't hurt them and does help in two ways...first it benefits bacteria in the soil, breaking down organic matter into a form that plants can use. some of the molasses is actually absorbed into the vascular tissue and is really a great way to strengthen the whole plant.
lastly...you want to end up in a three gallon pot. but don't transplant too early. the whole rootball will fall apart. wanna test? turn the pot over with the main stem resting in between two fingers. the rootball will slide out into the palm of ur hand revealing the whole root mass. if it looks like there are toooo many roots for the pot they are in, it's time to repot into 3gal.
hit me up any time. i can sift through the bs faster than most
i saw some minor burn issues...nadda prob...yet
u need more than the light u have to grow. ur gonna increase to mb a t5? or even 400W HPS? or even a 300W LED? even a 125 W full spectrum floro ($125.00)...the leaves are bleached out a little and that makes me think it's not getting enough light energy. but it could be the light fom the camera? no mites yet either. wanna test for mites? put a sheet of white paper under the plant. shake. some mites will fall off. if u wipe the paper with ur hand you'll see blood streaks. internodal spacing tells me they really want MORE light energy.
Be very careful how much u feed at this stage. MG? I've never used their brand of nutes but they are NO different from most others. the plant doesnt discern from MG or Jacks (UB used Jacks and Im not about to argue with a master grower)or any other form of NPK. there is no such thing as MJ specific fertilizer unless it's packaged that way and is meant to fool kids, not professional growers. at this juncture i think you're still in good shape. dont over fert . u can give them some molasses/sugar daddy. it won't hurt them and does help in two ways...first it benefits bacteria in the soil, breaking down organic matter into a form that plants can use. some of the molasses is actually absorbed into the vascular tissue and is really a great way to strengthen the whole plant.
lastly...you want to end up in a three gallon pot. but don't transplant too early. the whole rootball will fall apart. wanna test? turn the pot over with the main stem resting in between two fingers. the rootball will slide out into the palm of ur hand revealing the whole root mass. if it looks like there are toooo many roots for the pot they are in, it's time to repot into 3gal.
hit me up any time. i can sift through the bs faster than most
JJ- Danny boy is right in everything he said, especially the part about there being a ton of misinformation on this and all other sites, you have to be careful about who you listen too. The only thing he said that wasn't wrong but I'll clarify a bit more into first timer language for you. Plants do not differenciate between fertilizers (NPK) but they do need to have the correct ratio. 3-1-1 is right for veg and stretch (the first few weeks after you go 12/12) and 1-3-2 is right for the rest of flowering. This is taken directly from the guy UB, or uncle ben, he is referring too. You don't have to be exactly at those ratios but those are ideal. Something like 20-20-20 (which is just 1-1-1 at a stronger concentration) can be used to veg as well, but again, ideal would be 3-1-1. Jacks makes 3-1-1, and 1-3-2 and are basically an orchid fetilizer not sold at MJ stores. The only reason you WOULD want to purchase at an MJ store would be to make sure you don't buy something that is time release. Time release ferts are those ones that have large "balls" in them that are not fully water soluable. The thing your mother might throw on a house plant once every six months, it might say miracle grow extended release or something, you don't want that cause you'd end up overfertilizing. Again, he's not wrong, I'm just expanding.
Oh, one more thing, when you transplant, make sure you don't use miracle grow, or any other soil that already has fertilizer in it, it has those balls I'm talking about in the mix, miracle grow products are just good to stay away from. Ask dannyboy what to use cause I'm mainly a hydro grower.
And no, don't use straight sugar. use something called blackstrap mollasses (try to find unfiltered)...i think the ratio is around 1TBL/gal.
Oh, one more thing, when you transplant, make sure you don't use miracle grow, or any other soil that already has fertilizer in it, it has those balls I'm talking about in the mix, miracle grow products are just good to stay away from. Ask dannyboy what to use cause I'm mainly a hydro grower.
And no, don't use straight sugar. use something called blackstrap mollasses (try to find unfiltered)...i think the ratio is around 1TBL/gal.
You might want to top that thing too, here's a good picture...just top, I wouldn't try to FIM it till maybe next round. Don't be afraid, you won't kill it.
http://www.420magazine.com/gallery/data/500/2d1ol5h.jpg
I don't know if I'd go as high as 1-5-1, i'll throw the link from uncle ben talking about ratios down on the bottom too, read it before putting that ratio on your plant. He's a master grower as dannyboy stated. The 20-20-20 is probably better for flowering if you HAD to choose between only those two, read up and make your own decision though. Buying some jacks orchid formula of 1-3-2 would be even better. Here's a copy paste written by Uncle Ben, the full link is below:
A common mistake for growers when they reach the flowering stage is to start hitting the plants with a high P fert like a 10-50-10, continuing to use this blend exclusively, and when their plants start experiencing a deficit of N, Ca, Mg or micros as reflected by the dropping of lower leaves and chlorosis, they wonder why. Plants flower as a response to long nights, not because of fert blends high in P. A ratio of 10-60-10 is WAY too high in P. The plant will only take what it needs and compete for other elements that may be more important at the time.
You may have heard that too much N can inhibit flowering. No question about it, exclusive use of a plant food that is rich in N such as blood meal, a 5-1-1 blend, or ammonium nitrate/sulfate may inhibit flowering especially if the phosphorous level is low, but most balanced blends have sufficient amount of P to do the job. The question is - "how much P is enough to support a good flowering response and still retain my leaves?"
Manufacturers/horticulturists will give you element analysis and what effect the elements have on plant growth, but remember this does not necessarily mean you will get better yields. Using a high P fert exclusively during flowering can actually work against you due to impending leaf drop. It's an abundant amount of healthy leaves going into 12/12 and maintaining their health that produces a lot of bud, not high P ferts.
I rotate fert blends as the plant *requires* them, not because it is "the thing to do." For example, when your plants are going thru the stretch phase during early flowering, they may need more N, especially if you're getting some yellowing in the lower leaves. Give up the cannabis paradigms and give them what they need. Go back to mild high P fert when the stretch ends, maintaining the foliage in a healthy state of growth until harvest for maximum yields. A 1-3-2 blend such as Peter's Pro Blossom Booster, 10-30-20, is one of the best flowering blends on the market because of several factors - it is higher in nitrate N and Mg. It is sold under the Jack's Classic label. An added benefit of Peters blends is their use of high quality, very pure salts that will eliminate root burn if used judiciously.
https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/158144-never-ending-abuse-phosphorous-bloom.html
http://www.420magazine.com/gallery/data/500/2d1ol5h.jpg
I don't know if I'd go as high as 1-5-1, i'll throw the link from uncle ben talking about ratios down on the bottom too, read it before putting that ratio on your plant. He's a master grower as dannyboy stated. The 20-20-20 is probably better for flowering if you HAD to choose between only those two, read up and make your own decision though. Buying some jacks orchid formula of 1-3-2 would be even better. Here's a copy paste written by Uncle Ben, the full link is below:
A common mistake for growers when they reach the flowering stage is to start hitting the plants with a high P fert like a 10-50-10, continuing to use this blend exclusively, and when their plants start experiencing a deficit of N, Ca, Mg or micros as reflected by the dropping of lower leaves and chlorosis, they wonder why. Plants flower as a response to long nights, not because of fert blends high in P. A ratio of 10-60-10 is WAY too high in P. The plant will only take what it needs and compete for other elements that may be more important at the time.
You may have heard that too much N can inhibit flowering. No question about it, exclusive use of a plant food that is rich in N such as blood meal, a 5-1-1 blend, or ammonium nitrate/sulfate may inhibit flowering especially if the phosphorous level is low, but most balanced blends have sufficient amount of P to do the job. The question is - "how much P is enough to support a good flowering response and still retain my leaves?"
Manufacturers/horticulturists will give you element analysis and what effect the elements have on plant growth, but remember this does not necessarily mean you will get better yields. Using a high P fert exclusively during flowering can actually work against you due to impending leaf drop. It's an abundant amount of healthy leaves going into 12/12 and maintaining their health that produces a lot of bud, not high P ferts.
I rotate fert blends as the plant *requires* them, not because it is "the thing to do." For example, when your plants are going thru the stretch phase during early flowering, they may need more N, especially if you're getting some yellowing in the lower leaves. Give up the cannabis paradigms and give them what they need. Go back to mild high P fert when the stretch ends, maintaining the foliage in a healthy state of growth until harvest for maximum yields. A 1-3-2 blend such as Peter's Pro Blossom Booster, 10-30-20, is one of the best flowering blends on the market because of several factors - it is higher in nitrate N and Mg. It is sold under the Jack's Classic label. An added benefit of Peters blends is their use of high quality, very pure salts that will eliminate root burn if used judiciously.
https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/158144-never-ending-abuse-phosphorous-bloom.html
