What is your favorite pH??

olds442

Well-Known Member
Your ph is ok at that level because you are still growing in soil. You cant grow in soil and grow hydro, this is impossible, you would be growing in terraponics.
nothings impossible my freind im growing in soil and a DWC at the same time and i know of two other people that have been growing this way for years and they have been growing since the late 70s so i say agin nothings impossible my freind
 

jacgrass420

Well-Known Member
honestly i grow in soil and dont have, nor never needed to even have a ph scale let alone check it? i just replace the soil every 2 harvests and it goes pretty smooth, i got a rythem down i guess, i dont yeild very much tho at the most a qp every 4-5 months, enough for personal use and some play cash on the side tho
 

daddychrisg

Well-Known Member
Thanks Russ, I have been waiting for that chart to show up! Big + to you Russ, nice work...I hope it answers some questions for folks. I have studied it a bit, I just wonder how accurate it is. I mean, taking all the variable into consideration, I can't see how that chart is perfect..Like what type of Nuts you are using, what is the temp, humidity, how old the plant is...I am sure a list can be compiled very fast.
 

chabnock

Well-Known Member
I do think it differs's between strains, and even what kind of nuts and such you use.. but only a few points.

I am still waiting for my plants to speak to me, and tell me what they want..:?
 

FilthyFletch

Mr I Can Do That For Half
I grow aero and 5.8 is ideal for these type grows.Soil will be higher since you dont feed as much or as often and the soil filters stuff off.In aero or hydro the feeding is constant and all day long.My plants feed and water 24 hours aday.Much higher then 6 you get droopy soft plants and unhealthy growth. Water in your res should be around 60-65 so by time it hits roots its bewtween 68-70 F no higher or root roy and algae grow killing your root zone
 

potroast

Uses the Rollitup profile
Well, one thing for certain is that the pH should be below neutral, and that is 7.0, because we all know that cannabis is an acid-loving plant.

I'll stand by what I've said before, optimum pH for hydro is high-fives, and soil is mid-sixes.

Here is part of one of the best explanations that I have found on the subject: I'll highlight some good points.

Most varieties of vegetables grow at their best in a nutrient solution having a pH between 6.0 and 7.5 and a nutrient temperature between 20 and 22 degrees Celsius

In low light ( overcast days or indoor growing environments) plants take up more potassium and phosphorous from the nutrient solution so the acidity increases (pH drops). In strong intense light (clear sunny days) plants take up more nitrogen from the nutrient solution so the acidity decreases (pH rises). pH can be controlled in two ways.

Extremes in pH can result in precipitation of certain nutrients. For plant roots to be able to absorb nutrients, the nutrients must be dissolved in solution. The process of precipitation (the reverse of dissolving) results in the formation of solids in the nutrient solution, making nutrients unavailable to plants. Not all precipitation settles to the bottom of the tanks, some precipitates occur as very fine suspension invisible to the naked eye. Plants can tell us their problems through leaf symptoms (e.g. iron [Fe] deficiency) when it's too late. Iron (Fe) is one essential plant nutrient whose solubility is affected by pH which is why it is added in a chelated form (or daily), Fe deficiency symptoms occur readily. At pH values over 7, less than 50% of the Fe is available to plants. At pH 8.0, no Fe is left in solution due to iron hydroxide precipitation (Fe(OH)3 - which eventually converts to rust). As long as the pH is kept below 6.5, over 90% of the Fe is available to plants. Varying pH of summer lettuce nutrient solutions also affects the solubility of calcium (Ca) and phosphorus (P). Due to calcium phosphate precipitation (Ca3(PO4)2) the availability of Ca and P decreases at pH values above 6.0. All other nutrients stay in solution and do not precipitate over a wide pH range. Poor water quality could exacerbate any precipitation reactions that may occur. Generally in the pH range 4.0 to 6.0, all nutrients are available to plants. Precipitation reduces Fe, Ca and P availability at pH 6.0 and over .

Adjusting pH The addition of acids or alkalis to nutrient solutions is the most common and practical means to adjust pH, and can be easily automated. There are ways to minimise pH variations and they are worth some consideration. Nitrogen is the essential inorganic nutrient required in the largest quantity by plants. Most plants are able to absorb either nitrate (NO3-) or ammonium (NH4+) or both. NH4+ as the sole source of nitrogen or in excess is deleterious to the growth of many plant species. Some plants yield better when supplied with a mixture of NH4+ (ammonium) and NO3- (nitrate) compared to NO3- alone. A combination of NH4+ and NO3- can be used to buffer against changes in pH. Plants grown in nutrient solution containing only NO3- as the sole nitrogen source tend to increase solution pH, hence the need to add acid. But when approximately 10%-20% of the total nitrogen is supplied as NH4+, the nutrient solution pH is stabilised at pH 5.5. NH4+ concentration needs to be monitored as it has been shown recently that micro-organisms growing on plant root surfaces can convert the NH4+ to NO3-. Since hand-held ion-selective electrodes for measuring both NH4+ and NO3- are now available, it should be possible to accurately monitor and maintain a predetermined NO3-/NH4+ ratio throughout the life of the crop. Phosphorus is required in large amounts by plants. Interestingly, there are two forms of fertilisers containing both K and P - KH2PO4 mono-potassium phosphate (MKP) and K2HPO4 di-potassium phosphate. Equal quantities of both can be used to maintain the pH at 7.0. Using a higher proportion of K2HPO4 increases pH. MKP can be used to lower the solution pH. Buffers are solutions which resist pH change and are used to calibrate pH electrodes. Buffers can be added to nutrient solutions in an attempt to maintain pH stability. One such buffer is called 2-(N-morpholino) ethanesulfonic acid - abbreviated to MES. Many of the companies who claim better pH control with their 'specially' formulated nutrient solutions add MES to their mixes. It is important to remember when using MES, that after MES addition the pH is low and needs to be adjusted to your required level with an alkali such as potassium hydroxide (KOH). Another method of pH stabilisation is to use ion- exchange and chelating resins. Generally, these resins are small beads which have nutrients absorbed or chelated onto them - the nutrient solution circulates through the beads or the beads can be suspended in the nutrient tank. As plants absorb nutrients, more nutrients are released by the resins. The aim is to achieve controlled release of nutrients into the solution in an attempt to mimic the way the soil releases nutrients. Ideally, such release can adequately supply the growing plants' nutritional requirements and maintain pH stability.

Is pH Adjustment Critical? pH is not as critical as most hydroponicists believe. The main point is to avoid extremes in pH. Plants grow on soils with a wide range of pH. For most plant species there is an optimum pH in the region of pH 5 to pH 6.
Hey, It's me, I'm back. Yeah, I know that this is just some other guys write up, but it jives with everything that I have read on the subject.

Jorge Cervantes latest edition has the same chart with the lower values for the minor elements. He says for soil feed with pH 6.5 - 7.0 and for hydro to use 5.8 - 6.8. Then he says that most cannabis growers report best growth at the lower end of those ranges.

Like I said, For soil growing, your nutrient feed pH should be in the mid 6's, and for hydro it should be in the high 5's.

HTH :mrgreen:
 

daddychrisg

Well-Known Member
Very nice PT, I think with this post it about sums up this thread...Unless anyone else has something they have to share... Thanks for creating a vn thread you guys...
 

fat sam

Well-Known Member
im growing in coco and keep it at 6-6.5 i think that the super low 5's ph is for rockwool mostly, you have to counteract the glue in them, thats why you have to soak rockwool cubes first
 

FilthyFletch

Mr I Can Do That For Half
I know this is an old post but 5.5 is the best keep it 5.5-5.8 and your gravy..Now you got 80 degree res water thats way way to warm get it down to around 65-67 max..Better get a chiler or take the res out the grow area
 
I have been growing for some 30 years,I run a 8 x 8 bloom room, to closets one for cloning the other for mother plants.... and now a 10 x 20 shade house for the summer grows. In all cases I ph the water to 5.75 through out there life cycle. I use Dutchmasters gold and cal-mag that keeps the plants from going deficent. at that level All the plants remain a lush green lighter in the new growth.

3 18 2011 test hr 003.jpgbud size 001.jpg bud size 003.jpg 3 18 2011 test hr 004.jpg bud size 002.jpg
 
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