What is YOUR "Golden" rule for a heavy healthy yield?

PJ Diaz said:

I don't ph in soil and I don't have that problem. My non-ph soil grows are yielding the same as my ph'd hydro grows did. The potting soil and nutes I use buffer the ph well.

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I didnt /dont PH in soil either. Never understood why soil growers PH for. My rain water is a fairly neutral though. Ive heard of some people in America with a starting ph of water of 8s- crazy stuff, so i can understand why they might.

I just came across this in another thread and found it interesting. Has anyone else found the PH is more stable in Veg in a Hydro system than in flower? Could it be the natural make up of the plant to adjust its PH more in flower to pick up what it needs?

"DIY RDWC
-No medium, clones set in neoprene collars set in netcups directly into recirculating system
-Mineral nutrients current using GH Trio (Lucas Formula)
-35 Gallons total
-This sounds pretty interesting, during veg my pH stays relatively solid entire grow. I don't get the pH swings till mid flower on"

This is a pretty good read. I dont understand most of it...lol. But its damn interesting.

Father Ramirez said:

View attachment 4403436View attachment 4403437
5z in this bagView attachment 4403436View attachment 4403437

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That’s old school way of curing weed I clipped. Kind of liked that better

Lucky Luke said:

I just came across this in another thread and found it interesting. Has anyone else found the PH is more stable in Veg in a Hydro system than in flower? Could it be the natural make up of the plant to adjust its PH more in flower to pick up what it needs?

"DIY RDWC
-No medium, clones set in neoprene collars set in netcups directly into recirculating system
-Mineral nutrients current using GH Trio (Lucas Formula)
-35 Gallons total
-This sounds pretty interesting, during veg my pH stays relatively solid entire grow. I don't get the pH swings till mid flower on"

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Short answer no

Lucky Luke said:

This is a pretty good read. I dont understand most of it...lol. But its damn interesting.

Hydroponic Substrate Science | Manic Botanix

HYDROPONIC SUBSTRATE SCIENCE: OXYGEN MOISTURE RATIO AND IRRIGATION FREQUENCY Excerpt from Integral Hydroponics Evolution (coming soon!) Having looked at nutrient science, there is now one other…

medteknutrients.com.au

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Huh...idk about that...

This thumbnail was taken from the article...makes very little sense

greencropper said:

this is all you will get from me in the future lukey boy...

View attachment 4409924

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Haha! So it was you! lmao. lol. So fkn funny.

greencropper said:

this is all you will get from me in the future lukey boy...

View attachment 4409924

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Dude, pick a different thread to be an asshole in.

greencropper said:

fuck you too dude, wheres your plants? i cant find any, plenty of hot air but no grows, just another wannabe i guess, click on my blue journal link to see a real grower

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I need a bit more time on what I currently have in the tent, but it's looking good to me at 8 weeks 12/12. Sorry, didn't realize that you were here to compare dicks, or I woulda put my cock ring on sooner.

I've grown in hydro and soil for many years,and can conclusively say soil is way better because it's organic. Just kidding I'm a total noob. One question: how can hydro compete with outside behemoths over 6, 7 ft tall?

GreenHighlander said:

I am talking in the same time frame. A hydro plant dial in will fill the canopy in a shorter time frame then a dial in soil plant. Obviously all that goes out the window if I can veg my soil plants longer.

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Mollywhopper said:

Buds were slightly bigger in hydro was heavier too.canopy on the soil had more filler branches but smaller buds that as a whole didn't weigh quite as much as the hydro. I grow wierd I drop the lights real close without burnin and raise the temp in the room way up to 90 or so last 2 days to make them push resin seems to work and the bigger nugs seem to dense up better than small ones those last 2 days. Budsites started way bigger in hydro. soil seemed to be more focused on stem strength I think there's more effort put into stems in soil hydro absolutely had to have stakes soil was staked but probably could of held it's own. Soil leaves have more of a rigidity and resilience to bending hydro couldn't take to much bending it would just stay bent. Soil seemed healthier and more plant friendly but hydro was pumping out that beaten house wife better make my sandwich as big as you can stuff.

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In hydro the rootsystem can have access to water plus its dissolved minerals for 100% of the time.

In soil indoors that's hardly the case. Some of the earth will get dry eventually and roots in the these regions won't be able to function until one waters again (if roots there get too dry for too long it may die). Somehow that's always the case with the topsoil.
Then, there's the additional problem of rootboundness.

So I think hydro indoors can perform better but none of the aforementioned stiffle will apply to an outdoorsoil-scenario. Have you ever examined the rootsystem of an outdoor-cannabis plant grown from seed there with one grown indoors using soil plus transplanting from tiny container to larger ones? --> it will be totally different. There will be no huge taproot indoors just plenty of little roots.

There's a huge difference between indoors & outdoors soil grows not only because of the artifical light vs sun...

Rob Roy said:

Weed rafts. Green styrofoam and a swamp....no watering needed.

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Hey, have you ever seen this for real? What does it net in comparison? Can this outdoor-hydro setup beat outdoor-soil?

Lucky Luke said:

Thats my main point. its the same veg time at 30 days. The canopy will be bigger on the hydro side as it grows faster. Therefore it will yield more due to the larger size of the canopy.

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I think a proper comparison would call for the same canopy because for some grower space may be the limiting factor. So, hydro may be able to cut down vegging time (if possible?)

Lucky Luke said:

I just came across this in another thread and found it interesting. Has anyone else found the PH is more stable in Veg in a Hydro system than in flower? Could it be the natural make up of the plant to adjust its PH more in flower to pick up what it needs?

"DIY RDWC
-No medium, clones set in neoprene collars set in netcups directly into recirculating system
-Mineral nutrients current using GH Trio (Lucas Formula)
-35 Gallons total
-This sounds pretty interesting, during veg my pH stays relatively solid entire grow. I don't get the pH swings till mid flower on"

Click to expand...

think about something else please. in an outdoor soil scenario the roots can grow into different types of soil (downwards more clay etc) all coming with different abilities to e.g. hold water, nutrients and perhaps presenting different pH. Here, a plant can maybe choose to go this-or-that direction in order to get what it needs whereas in hydro, it's presented with always the same.

Kassiopeija said:

In hydro the rootsystem can have access to water plus its dissolved minerals for 100% of the time.

In soil indoors that's hardly the case. Some of the earth will get dry eventually and roots in the these regions won't be able to function until one waters again (if roots there get too dry for too long it may die). Somehow that's always the case with the topsoil.
Then, there's the additional problem of rootboundness.

So I think hydro indoors can perform better but none of the aforementioned stiffle will apply to an outdoorsoil-scenario. Have you ever examined the rootsystem of an outdoor-cannabis plant grown from seed there with one grown indoors using soil plus transplanting from tiny container to larger ones? --> it will be totally different. There will be no huge taproot indoors just plenty of little roots.

There's a huge difference between indoors & outdoors soil grows not only because of the artifical light vs sun...


Hey, have you ever seen this for real? What does it net in comparison? Can this outdoor-hydro setup beat outdoor-soil?


I think a proper comparison would call for the same canopy because for some grower space may be the limiting factor. So, hydro may be able to cut down vegging time (if possible?)

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I've seen outdoor that was hydro. Hydro is faster growing and hydro yeilds more.
Outdoor hydro beats outdoor soil indoor hydro wins... Some ppl don't realize you can grow "indoors" but have no roof aka a green house, controlled environment growing in the ground no root binding with the sun for light. Outdoor light for I guess indoor grow. Hydro in this same room getting sunlight at 72deg will be better all around. Il veg in soil rinse the roots and put it in hydro next to a plant that stays in soil. Hydro will bounce back and still win

Wow, nice intriguing post. Gives me me something to think about... well, let's just say that you've shattered my (own personal) vision of what is a indoor/outdoor grow. Because that

Mollywhopper said:

green house, controlled environment growing in the ground no root binding with the sun for light.

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yeah, is behind doors but carries lots of traits of a classical outdoor grow...

Mollywhopper said:

Il veg in soil rinse the roots and put it in hydro next to a plant that stays in soil. Hydro will bounce back and still win

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if this is true (and I have absolutely no reason to disbelieve you) then this is strong evidence of hydro being better because of the shock this plant will receive by the switch.

Mollywhopper said:

Hydro in this same room getting sunlight at 72deg will be better all around.

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May I ask you what's up with the 72° angle? Can Cannabis use more light this way? I'm growing indoors under 600W MH + HPS, scrogging, but for my next grow I wanna switch to vertical (covering all the sides of my tent, too just like Sedan does in his thread). Still thinking baout the pros and cons, so that's why I'm asking

Kassiopeija said:

Wow, nice intriguing post. Gives me me something to think about... well, let's just say that you've shattered my (own personal) vision of what is a indoor/outdoor grow. Because that

yeah, is behind doors but carries lots of traits of a classical outdoor grow...


if this is true (and I have absolutely no reason to disbelieve you) then this is strong evidence of hydro being better because of the shock this plant will receive by the switch.


May I ask you what's up with the 72° angle? Can Cannabis use more light this way? I'm growing indoors under 600W MH + HPS, scrogging, but for my next grow I wanna switch to vertical (covering all the sides of my tent, too just like Sedan does in his thread). Still thinking baout the pros and cons, so that's why I'm asking

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Sorry I was talking about temp. I have never tried the virtical grow but after studying that and staking I've found the plants seem to yeild more with staking every single branch with zipties spreading it out making it as short as possible at 1212 switch or if the stems aren't too stiff try to wait a week or 2 into flower. If you support each cola they grow HUGE.

Mollywhopper said:

Sorry I was talking about temp. I have never tried the virtical grow but after studying that and staking I've found the plants seem to yeild more with staking every single branch with zipties spreading it out making it as short as possible at 1212 switch or if the stems aren't too stiff try to wait a week or 2 into flower. If you support each cola they grow HUGE.

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Oh sorry - my bad (english is not my native language).

Yes I agree, if you can support a cola in such a way that it will always stand in the same direction towards the light it'll grow stronger than these unsupported cola's that bend down once they achieve some weight.
It's my impression that Cannabis seems to "loose interest" in adjusting its fan-leaves (towards the light if the direction was varied) once it hits mid-to-late-flowering.

Actually I wanna try & combine alot of manipulation techniques in order to fill in the V-Scrog like: topping, super-cropping & monster-cropping & lollipopping. Not so sure about defoliation right now, some say the plant needs the big fanleaves to store sugar in them in order to grow during the night-phase, some say it's better if the budsites get direct light (I could bind some of the fanleaves behind the V-screen, but surely not all of them.)

Sorry for the offtopic but what do you think about this? I wanna do something extraordinairy like getting 2kg dry from 600W @ 1,44m^2 using the 3 sides of tent, some of the floor and perhabs even a bit of "the roof"...

Kassiopeija said:

think about something else please. in an outdoor soil scenario the roots can grow into different types of soil (downwards more clay etc) all coming with different abilities to e.g. hold water, nutrients and perhaps presenting different pH. Here, a plant can maybe choose to go this-or-that direction in order to get what it needs whereas in hydro, it's presented with always the same.

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Not sure what you are getting at here. The post i did you quoted is DWC (Hydro) not soil or soiless.

Mollywhopper said:

I've seen outdoor that was hydro. Hydro is faster growing and hydro yeilds more.
Outdoor hydro beats outdoor soil indoor hydro wins... Some ppl don't realize you can grow "indoors" but have no roof aka a green house, controlled environment growing in the ground no root binding with the sun for light. Outdoor light for I guess indoor grow. Hydro in this same room getting sunlight at 72deg will be better all around. Il veg in soil rinse the roots and put it in hydro next to a plant that stays in soil. Hydro will bounce back and still win

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We have lots of greenhouse hydro farms here. Mainly Tomatoes but some flower ones as well. Huge advantage being able to grow all year round.

Lucky Luke said:

We have lots of greenhouse hydro farms here. Mainly Tomatoes but some flower ones as well. Huge advantage being able to grow all year round.

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Yeah, they do that at the College I work at..

Kassiopeija said:

Oh sorry - my bad (english is not my native language).

Yes I agree, if you can support a cola in such a way that it will always stand in the same direction towards the light it'll grow stronger than these unsupported cola's that bend down once they achieve some weight.
It's my impression that Cannabis seems to "loose interest" in adjusting its fan-leaves (towards the light if the direction was varied) once it hits mid-to-late-flowering.

Actually I wanna try & combine alot of manipulation techniques in order to fill in the V-Scrog like: topping, super-cropping & monster-cropping & lollipopping. Not so sure about defoliation right now, some say the plant needs the big fanleaves to store sugar in them in order to grow during the night-phase, some say it's better if the budsites get direct light (I could bind some of the fanleaves behind the V-screen, but surely not all of them.)

Sorry for the offtopic but what do you think about this? I wanna do something extraordinairy like getting 2kg dry from 600W @ 1,44m^2 using the 3 sides of tent, some of the floor and perhabs even a bit of "the roof"...

Click to expand...

I never bind up leaves or let any big leaves sit on each other that's where p.m. grows best I trim middle leaves but leave any towards the outer edge that don't block anything