What kind of heating element for heat purge do you use?
- Thread starter shockys
- Start date
twistedj420
Active Member
heating pad maybe
charface
Well-Known Member
Warm water bath.
Take the element put a large pot of water on it.
Then place the container with the goo on that water.
Use a temp gauge and remove from heat as needed.
budbro18
Well-Known Member
Ive been wanting to try something like that with a cheap walmart griddle. Throw a pid and thermocouple on it and get it all dialed in since id basically just be making a re-arranged e-nail.
Do the heat pads come with a thermocouple?? I figure they dont but thatd be nice. Trying to place it to get a consistent heat would be annoying.
Ive been lookin at these but not sure if the digital is reallly worth it. They have similar analog ones for less than half the price i just dont know if ill be able to tune it as well with just a temp probe checking the temp and just how low id have to set it to not go over 110 ish.
http://www.enasco.com/product/SB41623M
Sirdabsalot462
Well-Known Member
As FD said...
^ That is absolutely the best way to maintain a steady consistent source of heat.
The griddle is 16$
50 lb of sand is 3.50$
Digital probe thermometer 20$
Its just as effective as an oven imo..
I can control temps in 1° increments.
By verifying the temp with the digital probe in the sand and correlating that temp with an IR reading of the oil..
My setup..if the digital in the sand reads 138° F... My oil temp is 115°
You will have to verify this with every batch, as some resins are more/less viscous than others...
I've converted quite a few folks to this method with excellent feedback.
^ That is absolutely the best way to maintain a steady consistent source of heat.
The griddle is 16$
50 lb of sand is 3.50$
Digital probe thermometer 20$
Its just as effective as an oven imo..
I can control temps in 1° increments.
By verifying the temp with the digital probe in the sand and correlating that temp with an IR reading of the oil..
My setup..if the digital in the sand reads 138° F... My oil temp is 115°
You will have to verify this with every batch, as some resins are more/less viscous than others...
I've converted quite a few folks to this method with excellent feedback.
Sirdabsalot462
Well-Known Member
Thank you sir..
I will give this a try on my next batch! Is your pot just sitting right on top of the sand?As FD said...
^ That is absolutely the best way to maintain a steady consistent source of heat.
The griddle is 16$
50 lb of sand is 3.50$
Digital probe thermometer 20$
Its just as effective as an oven imo..
I can control temps in 1° increments.
By verifying the temp with the digital probe in the sand and correlating that temp with an IR reading of the oil..
My setup..if the digital in the sand reads 138° F... My oil temp is 115°
You will have to verify this with every batch, as some resins are more/less viscous than others...
I've converted quite a few folks to this method with excellent feedback.
Right now i'm using a griddle with a pryex dish upside down.
Griddle - 175
Dish - 136
Chamber - 112
oil - round 100
Sirdabsalot462
Well-Known Member
^ Very innovative...
If you have some...
The rings that come with Mason jars can be used as a buffer as well..
It would be a little more efficient, because the heat will be more consistent...
I'm currently working on finding a way to implement slotted racks inside my chamber, two of them.
Not only will I be able to purge two slabs in the same chamber, but, raising the oil above the bottom of the chamber will create a more oven like environment..
Allowing the heated air to travel in the chamber heating the oil from the top & bottom.
I also use a level with this setup..
After I nestle the chamber into the sand, I place a level on the chambers lid, most all times I think it's even...
It is not...this will cause vertical (uneven) heating.
So, put a level on the lid and adjust the chamber until it's level ..
Check this on all angles..
For example.
Lay the level straight across, adjust.
Lay it perpendicular, adjust.
Diagonally each way and adjust.
Run your IR laser across the entire bottom of the chamber...
It should be 115° throughout the Entire surface.. The very edges will be a tad higher, maybe 116°..
Once I figure out how to implement a raised rack...
This is the closet to an actual Vac oven that I've been able to foresee.
Maybe I'll use the Mason Jar rings... cut slits in the lid..
Still weighing options.
If you have some...
The rings that come with Mason jars can be used as a buffer as well..
It would be a little more efficient, because the heat will be more consistent...
I'm currently working on finding a way to implement slotted racks inside my chamber, two of them.
Not only will I be able to purge two slabs in the same chamber, but, raising the oil above the bottom of the chamber will create a more oven like environment..
Allowing the heated air to travel in the chamber heating the oil from the top & bottom.
I also use a level with this setup..
After I nestle the chamber into the sand, I place a level on the chambers lid, most all times I think it's even...
It is not...this will cause vertical (uneven) heating.
So, put a level on the lid and adjust the chamber until it's level ..
Check this on all angles..
For example.
Lay the level straight across, adjust.
Lay it perpendicular, adjust.
Diagonally each way and adjust.
Run your IR laser across the entire bottom of the chamber...
It should be 115° throughout the Entire surface.. The very edges will be a tad higher, maybe 116°..
Once I figure out how to implement a raised rack...
This is the closet to an actual Vac oven that I've been able to foresee.
Maybe I'll use the Mason Jar rings... cut slits in the lid..
Still weighing options.
Thanks for the information, can't wait to try that out. What temperature do you have your skillet on?
Sirdabsalot462
Well-Known Member
Directly on the” warm” setting.
you got a nice ass griddle though...
Try setting it to 120°, with a 2” buffer
Does it go up and down in 1° increments?
I helped another felluh on a different forum with the same exact question.. He too had bought a flat griddle before seeing my post.
You could find a large stock pot, Aluminum or Stainless Steel...Even a large clay pot (gardening)
Empty a thick layer of sand into the pot..
Put your chamber in that, and pour some more sand around the sides of the vessel...
Basically bury the chamber about 1/2 - 3/4 into the sand...
Since your griddle has a digital reading, calibrate accordingly..
With this specific method, start at 138° Edit: Start a bit higher to compensate for all the buffering...Then read the temp of the oil surface with a IR temp gun, with my setup 138° F Sand temp = 115° F Oil surface temp.
Adjust your temps as necessary, until you've got it ” calibrated”
*You will have to verify with each run though...
Different strains (even different buds from the same plant), will produce different levels of viscosity.
Thicker resins require a bit more heat to reach molten state.
you got a nice ass griddle though...
Try setting it to 120°, with a 2” buffer
Does it go up and down in 1° increments?
I helped another felluh on a different forum with the same exact question.. He too had bought a flat griddle before seeing my post.
You could find a large stock pot, Aluminum or Stainless Steel...Even a large clay pot (gardening)
Empty a thick layer of sand into the pot..
Put your chamber in that, and pour some more sand around the sides of the vessel...
Basically bury the chamber about 1/2 - 3/4 into the sand...
Since your griddle has a digital reading, calibrate accordingly..
With this specific method, start at 138° Edit: Start a bit higher to compensate for all the buffering...Then read the temp of the oil surface with a IR temp gun, with my setup 138° F Sand temp = 115° F Oil surface temp.
Adjust your temps as necessary, until you've got it ” calibrated”
*You will have to verify with each run though...
Different strains (even different buds from the same plant), will produce different levels of viscosity.
Thicker resins require a bit more heat to reach molten state.