What now? Good girls going bad!

I need a little help, my girls are showing orangy looking edges on the leafs. Maybe you might call it brown but it looks orange to me. I use LED light (nextlight core) 22" from the top of plant. My leaf tips showed signs of problems and I cut down on nutrients thinking nutrient burn or light burn. At the same time I moved the light up from 18". I use Advanced Nutrients Micro, Grow and Bloom along with Cal-Mag.

My light is LED, nextlight core, advanced nutrients micro, grow, bloom and Cal-mag. I top feed recharge and molasses 1 teaspoon a week. I use promix hp in autopots with airdomes. I also have a waterpump in the reservoir running 20 minutes every hour. My light schedule is 18/6. My Temps run 74 to 77 degrees F., and the humidity runs 55 to 57%.

I basically grow with the same stuff you do but just plastic pots and HID lights. Definitely some mild nute burn happening but that first pic is a bit different. Do you spray anything on your plants as it looks like water damage more than burn in that pic? I've found that kind of brown burn when one leaf is draped over another so moisture from the upper leaf gets trapped between them and the lower leaf gets that kind of brown/orange burn on it.

I use an airstone and 50W aquarium heater in a 5gal water jug in my grow room and just turn it on a few hours before I plan to water my plants. Warm water makes the bugs in the pots happy as I'm using organic in my HP and also adding DynoMyco plus a bit of unfiltered water that comes from the dugout on my property to add all sorts of micro-flora to the pots. The plants seem to love it.

OldMedUser said:

I basically grow with the same stuff you do but just plastic pots and HID lights. Definitely some mild nute burn happening but that first pic is a bit different. Do you spray anything on your plants as it looks like water damage more than burn in that pic? I've found that kind of brown burn when one leaf is draped over another so moisture from the upper leaf gets trapped between them and the lower leaf gets that kind of brown/orange burn on it.

I use an airstone and 50W aquarium heater in a 5gal water jug in my grow room and just turn it on a few hours before I plan to water my plants. Warm water makes the bugs in the pots happy as I'm using organic in my HP and also adding DynoMyco plus a bit of unfiltered water that comes from the dugout on my property to add all sorts of micro-flora to the pots. The plants seem to love it.

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No I don't foliar spray. I suspected nutrient burn too and cut back on nutrient dosage. Meaning 40 ml of each of the three part advanced set in 4 gallons. Advanced recommends 48 ml. I also thought about light burn so I raised the light from 18 to about 23 inches above the plants. I have a 12.5 gallon reservoir with a water pump for circulation 20 minutes per hour. Then air domes at the bottom of my containers (3.9 gallon).

In the first pic I see yellowing between the leaf veins, that usually means mag def. those burns around the edges look like a potassium def but it usually runs the whole length of the leaf edges.
I’m pretty sure Advanced puts cal/mag in all of it’s base nutes, plus you’re adding cal/mag too so that should be lots, unless it’s a real low dose. What’s the ppm/EC of the nutes you’re feeding and what’s the PH? How’s your water?
Doesn’t look like light burn to me.

MustGro said:

In the first pic I see yellowing between the leaf veins, that usually means mag def. those burns around the edges look like a potassium def but it usually runs the whole length of the leaf edges.
I’m pretty sure Advanced puts cal/mag in all of it’s base nutes, plus you’re adding cal/mag too so that should be lots, unless it’s a real low dose. What’s the ppm/EC of the nutes you’re feeding and what’s the PH? How’s your water?
Doesn’t look like light burn to me.⁰

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Well for water I use Filtered tap. I have a Cuzn UC200 that even filters chlorine. The ph in my reservoir was 6.80 and the ec was 360. I adjusted the ph down to 5.50. Damn it! PH was the only reason advanced was my choice of nutrition. Could cal mag screw up the mix that much? Only used 4ml in 4 gallons the last time I used it.

Fahn2k said:

Well for water I use Filtered tap. I have a Cuzn UC200 that even filters chlorine. The ph in my reservoir was 6.80 and the ec was 360. I adjusted the ph down to 5.50. Damn it! PH was the only reason advanced was my choice of nutrition. Could cal mag screw up the mix that much? Only used 4ml in 4 gallons the last time I used it.

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I’m not familiar with autopots, but you’re running pro mix in hydro. I run hydro clay in mine and keep the ph close to 5.8.
Advanced does claim to have ph perfect technology, but it only lasts so long. I think it‘s a week, maybe 10 days. You run the same solution for a long time?
Is it the Advanced cal/mag or another brand?
4ml in 4 gallons is very little, and like I mentioned it’s not ”supposed” to be necessary with their base nutes.
Your EC can’t be 360. Do you mean 360 ppms? That seems like a pretty low dose.
Cannabis does need a very small amount of chlorine.

Fahn2k said:

Well for water I use Filtered tap. I have a Cuzn UC200 that even filters chlorine. The ph in my reservoir was 6.80 and the ec was 360. I adjusted the ph down to 5.50. Damn it! PH was the only reason advanced was my choice of nutrition. Could cal mag screw up the mix that much? Only used 4ml in 4 gallons the last time I used it.

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Leave the damned pH at 6.8.

Fahn2k said:

Well for water I use Filtered tap. I have a Cuzn UC200 that even filters chlorine. The ph in my reservoir was 6.80 and the ec was 360. I adjusted the ph down to 5.50. Damn it! PH was the only reason advanced was my choice of nutrition. Could cal mag screw up the mix that much? Only used 4ml in 4 gallons the last time I used it.

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I've used AN for over 20 years. Long before they brought in the pH Perfect ones which I use now with the 3-part for my base and one thing I'll tell you for certain is don't fuck with the pH. pH pens don't read them right and I'm a chemist so know about such things at depths the average user has never seen. pH is a much more complex animal than most realize.

I've done about 50 DWC grows since '01 when even Ed Rosenthal told me he didn't think it would work well but has long since changed his tune about that. I use Rubbermaid tubs and would go 3 days between top ups. I would top up with RO water then give it some time to mix in well with the air bubbling then check pH and ppm. It would have risen to about 6.2 - 6.4 so I'd drop it back with a few drops of concentrated sulphuric acid to as low as 5.2 sometimes then add a small amount of nutes to raise the ppm back up to my target level. I was so regular that I would only test the pH every 3rd or 4th top up.

Once the pH Perfect came along it was a few years before I ran out of nutes and got them. I f'ed around with testing pH and adjusting but everything went to shit so I stopped testing and trusting the tech. I would only change my nutes when I was switching to flower and even then wait 'til after the stretch and start feeding Lucas Formula style. A ratio of 1ml Micro to 2mls Bloom with no Grow. Or 2ml M to 4mls B whatever it took to get to the ppm I wanted. Then I went a whole grow without once changing nutes and it worked just as well so that's what I did my last 20 grows or so.

There is no need to change nutes every week especially in veg when the plants are smaller. Maybe a change just before flipping to flower when the plants go thru a huge growth spurt and the ppm can drop up to 4X faster for 3 or 4 weeks then goes back to normal drops once stretch is over. I kept track of that thru 4 or 5 grows and it was consistent. I've had up to 16 plants in one tub and they eat lots. Nute makers love guys that throw away perfectly good nutes so they run out faster and have to buy more.

I'm mostly growing in ProMix HP but adding organics to it and feeding with the AN as needed. All I use is the 3-part, Big Bud and sometimes Rhino Skin for the silica. Epsom Salts and any old Calmag will do for the rest. All the rest of those pricey supplements are not needed unless you like spending lots of money for little return.

Watch your humidity and if it's low feed less and if high feed more to prevent nute burn and Toxic Salts Buildup. I never follow the nute charts and find that 2ml/L is the most that is needed every 2nd watering in pots unless you have a heavy feeder then might go 3ml/L one watering to catch it up. Better to see a little yellowing going on than burning. I never water to get extra runoff either as I feed just enough that the plants can eat up all the salts so no buildup to wash out.

Oh yeah. What's the ppm of your filtered tap water and have you ever got a water report from your supplier to see what's in it?

I never use anything but RO except to feed once some unfiltered water from the dugout which is what we use for tap water and is 400+ppm and 8+ pH so really shitty water.