what tempture dose the reservoir have to be?

Roseman said:

60 to 75 is good for the water temp in the reservoir and 65 is best!

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And you base this upon what, soil grows, CO2 starved grows, cold temperature grows of 75 and below wher the limiter is ambient CO2 levels or your ever touted fabulous collection of comic book grade growing books?

fatman7574 said:

And you base this upon what, soil grows, CO2 starved grows, cold temperature grows of 75 and below wher the limiter is ambient CO2 levels or your ever touted fabulous collection of comic book grade growing books?

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allow me to wise you up just a little here.

We don't use soil in a reservoir tank. We don't use a reservoir tank in a soil grow either. duh????

(ya might want to read the question and the post again)

I'm going have to put you back on the Ignore List, fatman. I don't like to argue like you do for the sake of argueing..

Fatman, keep putting chlorine and peroxide in your res's, i really dont care, thats fucked up though

Im just not gonna let you pass on shitty info to new growers

If your ignoring the fact that roots uptake just as much oxygen as the leaves, then go ahead

U can ignore science all you want, but the truth is the key to explosice growth is oxygen, im sure all of your degrees told you that

Have you ever heard of oxygen burn????? NO, thats because its not possible, YOU CAN NOT POSSIBLY GIVE GREEN PLANTS ENOUGH OXYGEN

But i mean im sure your nugs are just absoulutly HUGE in your oxygen starved AREO system, and ur nice warm res temps

To each is own

U just cant be telling new growers the wrong shit and making up some BS about high DO levels being better, its just COMPLETE BS

Listen numb nuts. Read what I wrote, every proper aero systsem with misters is getting huge amounts of O2 without there being any need to raise the DO level of the nutrient water prior to it being pumped out of the reservoir. The very misting into tiny droplets of water is oxygenating that water n more than annything your going to do with it in the resrvoir. That is why an aero system is effecive. Because the misted water provides a more oxygenated water than an aerated reservoir water dumped onto soil. If you want to see explosive growth look at an atomized aero or a high pressure atomized aero system. Neither one of those systems uses water that is aerated or circulated or anything else to increase the DO of the reservoir water. The very misting exposes all the little droplets to a huge amount of air due y to the massive sursce areas exposed to the )2 in the air. Wa la high DO water. It has nothing to do with high reservoir do water.

I have explained the DO levels and explained the difference in preferrred environments of both protozoa and bacteria and explined in increased toxic effect that chlorine and H2O2 has on protoza over bacteria so as to explain they are the preferrred organism to combat not the bacteria that prfers the high DO environment that is harder to irradicate. I have explianed the differences between soil and aero and hydro environments. If you are incapale to see the disadvatges of the high DO reservoir water you are pretty lam, and definitely therefore do not have an opion of any importance.

I have provided no misinformation or wrong information.


Thee is no wrong shit being told. If you have a misted or a opem well draining inert hydro media you gain nothing by increasing the DO of yur reservoir water but you di o incraese bacterial logical problems. Period. Fact not fiction. Perhaps ypu should pick up anf read a professional refernce book or a college level text book rtaher than just regurgiatting forum myhts and coimic book level growing book banter. Do you think people spend many yeras in colleges just to sit in the college Pub and drink or to go to dormiatort y slumber parties. You obviously must think so.

It is a pretty standard practice for the green house industry, and many aero and hydro gt rowers to use chlorine and H2O2. What do you think Pythoff is. Why do you think there are so many people askinh what doses of H2O2 to use. If you want to grow using last decade methods that is fine, but it is absurd to be saying that those methods are the best or only methods, as they are only best when combined with a bunch more old methods such as trying to supply CO2 needs w by growing at low temps and using huge amounts of ventilation etc. It is true using all those old growing methods such as soil, low temps ,low CO2 that a proportional low reservioir temp and high reservoir water DO is advantageous, but this the aeroponic/hydroponic section and those old ways are huge roadblocks to fast growth and heavy yields with aeroponics. For real sc ucess you gotta change improve, learn and grow or otherwise your just fooling your self and wasting a lot of time and money.

Yes, I obtain rapid growth and very large yields. In a few weeks I will have completed the construction of some large pod air atomization pods. their nutrients wil be gravity fed to the air atomizers. The nutrients will not be circulated or aerated or cooled. They will be drain to waste pods. They will be atomized about 2 seconds about once every two minutes. Do you also think that will not work because the reservoir water will not have a high DO? If you can not understand what I have written I will try to dummy it down like the Sunday School Teachers preachings. However I really do not like writing as if I am writing to elementary school children as he seems to prefer for a writing style.

Did he come back and explain how he used soil in the reservoir tank, or a reservoir tank in a soil grow?

LOL

Some people are just amazing!!

LonghornFan said:

Some people are just amazing!!

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they get their head stuck up their rectum so far, they can't see the light!

and try to razzle dazzle you with a lot of 50 cent words. (words you have to put 50 cents with to get a cup of coffee, or they are worthless)

i really dont think theres much point in all ye fighting! roseman you have helped me out since i started my grow on a few of my strings so i ask u! if i keep my reservoir tank at 65 with an air stone in it. my grow room at about 78 and turn my pump on for 15 mins every 4 hours should this be ok???

weedpot said:

i really dont think theres much point in all ye fighting! roseman you have helped me out since i started my grow on a few of my strings so i ask u! if i keep my reservoir tank at 65 with an air stone in it. my grow room at about 78 and turn my pump on for 15 mins every 4 hours should this be ok???

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You'd be just fine. Very good, matter a fact.

You mean the water pump, don't you?

Air pump runs 24/7.

Roseman said:

allow me to wise you up just a little here.

We don't use soil in a reservoir tank. We don't use a reservoir tank in a soil grow either. duh????

(ya might want to read the question and the post again)

I'm going have to put you back on the Ignore List, fatman. I don't like to argue like you do for the sake of argueing..

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No problem Sunday School Teacher, you never write anything posted worth reading so your nearly always on my ignore list.

you never write anything posted worth reading so your nearly always on my ignore list.

This makes sense!!!

ya thats right my water pump 15 mins every 4 hrs the air stone will be on 24/7

LonghornFan said:

you never write anything posted worth reading so your nearly always on my ignore list.

This makes sense!!!

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Would pert near always be better to your cow boying manner of jawing.

Very interesting post Fatman7574 Some members may still just want to argue about stuff they know little about. Although I didn't see any info about the differences in time-exposures, versus gas-uptake and relief through the different systems, I was impressed by your article.
The better information we have, the better decisions we can make.

I gotta agree with highaltitude, nice writeup fatman7574. You make good points.

highaltitude said:

Very interesting post Fatman7574 Some members may still just want to argue about stuff they know little about. Although I didn't see any info about the differences in time-exposures, versus gas-uptake and relief through the different systems, I was impressed by your article.
The better information we have, the better decisions we can make.

Click to expand...

The time-exposures is not as important as the aspect of air movement. With a spray the droplets are constantly in contact with moving air as the droplet is in movement. With the air interface in a reservoir the water movement at the surface can vary a lot so the air exchanged at the surface can vary greatly, especially in an enclosed reservoir (lidded). To kick a aero tube systems DO to its max just put your airstones in through the capped end of the aero tubes rather than in the reservoir. The actual air exhange at the air water interface is almost instantly as long as there is an air movement and if the water is not already saturated. Over saturating water with oxygen is much easier with a spray or even a trickle system that with airstones. Usually most the increased DO with the amount of air used in reservoirs comes from the air exchage at the waters turbulent surface not from exchange with air bubbles even with deep reservoirs with long contact times. I could post the equations for DO increases from air bubbles but I don't think they would be appreciated or used.

When industry uses air in water basins to increase DO they use huge amounts of air (roots/gear type blowers) and have the water surface looking like its rapidly boiling or even more turbulent. Even then they attribute most of the gained DO from exchange at the surface. Equations and emperical tests show this readily. The large amount of air bubbles does add some to the DO but mainly it creates surface turbulance cheaply and provides mixing at the same time.

Too many people try to use principals and myths for soil grows and organic nutrients and say they also apply to aero and soil less hydro. Most seldom do. Reservoir temps and DO is one of those areas.

Organic Nitrogen sources are typically still in a form where they need be converted to nitrites and then to nitatres so as to be readily usable by the plants that is not the case with chemical fertlizers except ammonical nitrogen. The chemistry involved in an organic and soil system is much different and temperature and DO levels in the reservoir are much more important than in a chemical reservoir where temp and DO realy does not matter unless organics are introduced.

Thank you fatman7574 for another enlightening article. More facts less woodoo! I gave you a positive rep.

Okay guys I need a quick check. I've read through all the articles and arguing here and I'm starting to get the picture, but you all are arguing so much its hard to get a final answer. Let me set something straight, we are all adding and asking advice from different experiences, different variables have revealed different secrets and boosts to everyone's system. Aero and hydro are booming because we are all getting better at it, but we do garage grows, cheap grows, start up grows and try to cut corners and simplify systems to fit our needs. While a lot of the stuff in here is contradictory, if you read everything to preface it you can get an idea of what will work best for you.

Good for you, you inc your rep on a weed forum!! You've just recorded something on the internet and you're bragging about it. That's almost as dumb as it gets, and to get bent out of shape about it is even dumber.

I have been a long time supporter of the GREEN INITIATIVE since HS. I don't hate on anybody who supports, its about love people.

Now I'm going to explain what I have going on in my room with my temps and I hope I can get some straight answers and MINIMIZE the senseless bickering.

I'm trying to make a true Aero system, not DWC NFT or EBB & FLOW.

I custom built my tray, to fit my space, it's about a foot and a half deep. Deep enough to let the roots hang, but they're not going to sit in a pool of water. My tray is drained completely. My res is next to it and the water temps are pretty high, pushing past 75-80. Yes I realize this is very warm. And am trying to fix it, but I'm trying to determine the possible risks as to letting it be. I've already lengthened my intervals from 2.5 to 4 on and off. While the res is pushing into the 80s, my grow tray isn't, I think it is 75 MAX.

The plants are grown in 3x3 rockwools sitting in 6" net pots, they have about a buffer layer of leca on the bottom and an inch of leca on all sides, so it breathes and isn't trapped in the heat and moisture, yet. The roots aren't dangling yet, they will be in a week as long as they can survive in my 75 degree tray.

The reason my res is so warm is because I have a big ass sump pump in there. The reason I'm using such a huge as sump pump is because its powerful enough to turn my misters into the kind of aero system I want. The increase pressure was my goal, giving the roots the true aero system I'm trying to design. I do have airstones in my res, but now I'm thinking I dont need them, because I'm going for true aero. And my roots will breathe just fine from the misting they are already receiving.

I do have CO2 generators to supplement plant growth, which is why I'm also less worried about the heat, because if I'm trying to make sure they won't be limited by a lack of any of the basic elements of growth, i.e. water, nutes, CO2, air, light.

Cleanliness has been the biggest rule in my room, thereby eliminating the risk of pathogens.

So my questions are:

1. How safe are my roots? They can breathe, it is warm, and no water is touching light.

2. How safe is it to flush the system using H2O2? I understand it kills the pathogens, anything growing in the water because of the light and nutes, and I used it to clean my system before I started my grow. But I am still scared to wash my system with it while my plants are in it.

3. Eliminating my airstone will also decrease the chances of unwanted growth in my res, right?

As long as you throw fdow a layer of cheese cloth or root matting to sperate te roots thar will lay omn the tray bottoms and provo ide some tilt to the trays (s) so it drains well things will be fine. The temp will not make a difference as long as you do not have roots lieing in oxygen free stagnant water. That is what the cheese cloth should prevent as it will assure drainage under the roots. I would suggest Chlorox bleach rather than H2O2.

Chlorox bleach sold for home use: One drop is nominally considered equal to 0.06 ml, so it would 1.6 drops per gallon to add 0.10 ml (1 ppm). 8 drops per gallon would equal 5 ppm. If you actually had a root rot problem that would be a fine dosage initially if added over a period of say 30 minutes as most of it would be used up oxidixing all the existing dead roots so your residual chlorine would likely be less than 1 ppm. This would drop to xero within 24 to 36 hours or less depending upon your reservoir aeration and if your using misters/sprayers etc.

I pretreat my water at 5 ppm of chlorine 24 to 36 hours before its use then aeratte it until using it. For preventative tretament I add 0.05 ml per gallon of reservoir water per day to maintain a 0.5 ppm residual of chlorine. I inject with a peristaltic pump and a timer. I test for the residual chlorine level every 3 to 4 days.

It takes both high temps and high DO to encourage an aerobic bacterial blossom. It takes even hotter temperatures and a lack of oxygen to cause an anerobic bacterial blossom. This means that a reservoir bacterial problem will not be an issue. the main thing to watch for is that the water drains well from the tray(s) as you do not want roots laying in warm water. Aero systems with their roots entirely out of water (totally in air) actually take up nutrients better when the water is the same temperature as the plant. Air holds 270000 ppm of O2. Water at 85 degrees F holds about 7 ppm.

fatman7574 said:

The time-exposures is not as important as the aspect of air movement. With a spray the droplets are constantly in contact with moving air as the droplet is in movement. With the air interface in a reservoir the water movement at the surface can vary a lot so the air exchanged at the surface can vary greatly, especially in an enclosed reservoir (lidded). To kick a aero tube systems DO to its max just put your airstones in through the capped end of the aero tubes rather than in the reservoir. The actual air exhange at the air water interface is almost instantly as long as there is an air movement and if the water is not already saturated. Over saturating water with oxygen is much easier with a spray or even a trickle system that with airstones. Usually most the increased DO with the amount of air used in reservoirs comes from the air exchage at the waters turbulent surface not from exchange with air bubbles even with deep reservoirs with long contact times. I could post the equations for DO increases from air bubbles but I don't think they would be appreciated or used.

When industry uses air in water basins to increase DO they use huge amounts of air (roots/gear type blowers) and have the water surface looking like its rapidly boiling or even more turbulent. Even then they attribute most of the gained DO from exchange at the surface. Equations and emperical tests show this readily. The large amount of air bubbles does add some to the DO but mainly it creates surface turbulance cheaply and provides mixing at the same time.

Too many people try to use principals and myths for soil grows and organic nutrients and say they also apply to aero and soil less hydro. Most seldom do. Reservoir temps and DO is one of those areas.

Organic Nitrogen sources are typically still in a form where they need be converted to nitrites and then to nitatres so as to be readily usable by the plants that is not the case with chemical fertlizers except ammonical nitrogen. The chemistry involved in an organic and soil system is much different and temperature and DO levels in the reservoir are much more important than in a chemical reservoir where temp and DO realy does not matter unless organics are introduced.

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I know this is an old thread but I was wondering if I could pick your brain. I am doing high pressure aero and I was wondering if you have any experience in using a rail system with hpa? In using a fine mist 50 microns or less, would a rail system 6” still be optimal growing in root systems and plant health? I can utilize much more space using a rail system and even stack my grows. I’m afraid to make the move and I’ve been running in circles trying to find the correct answer between a large root chamber or a smaller rail system using high pressure aeroponic. Thanks in advance for any input.