rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
i don't see why it wouldn't work. you might have to mess with fan speeds and how fast you pump the water thru it.
how many degrees F do you need to drop it do you think?
Which would produce more DO in a DWC?
- Thread starter JSB99
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how many degrees F do you need to drop it do you think?
JSB99
Well-Known Member
Probably 8 to 10 degrees. I'm getting two different readings. My aquarium thermometer shows 68, but my tds pen w/temp probe show high 70's. It felt cool to me, but I wouldn't be able to say how warm it was like that.
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JSB99
Well-Known Member
A few comments back, @Budley Doright posted a cool thermo switch that'd work perfect for this!
JSB99
Well-Known Member
I may not even need a chiller, depending on what my real temps are. My grow room stays cool, and I use a fan for evaporative cooling with my controller reservoir. Like I said above, the water felt pretty cool to me, but my digital thermometer was showing high 70's and low 80's. But again, my aquarium thermometer was always around 68. The reason I'm focusing on this is because my roots ended up kind of slimy, and darker yellow, so I was thinking this was the cause. But now I'm thinking there may be other factors causing it.
Budley Doright
Well-Known Member
If you can't maintain under 70 I would say the best investment you could make would be a chiller of some kind if you want to continue with a flooded root zone system IMO. Not saying it can't be done, I did it for years but things got a lot better with the addition of controlled water temps. As for running your res water through an outdoor coil, not sure if I would but I never considered it with my outdoor temps in the -30c's lol.
JSB99
Well-Known Member
Alright, I'm fairly convinced that my aquarium thermometer was correct @ 68f/20c. My new probe has a thermometer as well. So I put the aquarium thermometer in the reservoir and I read 60 degrees. Then I check it with my new probe and it was 60° as well. My old probe red 68°in the reservoir. So the temperatures in my rdwc were actually right where they should have been.
So that means something else is causing my slime. It wasn't bad, but my roots weren't shiny white either. I think I sterilized everything a lot more aggressively this time though. I scrubbed everything down and sprayed everything with bleach. Hopefully that'll help. Can anyone think of anything else that might be causing it?
Budley Doright
Well-Known Member
Light leaks will cause clear slime buildup as well but I'm still not convinced it's not res temps, even a day or two in my setup of higher temps would allow slime to gain a foot hold. I could be way wrong though and you may have other issues. Another issue may be iron bacteria but I've never seen it in a municipal system.
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
remind us what was you were using in the res? what nutes, additives, etc??
there is a product i've used called flying skulls z7 which is designed to fix the slime issue. if i remember, it's an enzyme
garagedays
Member
garagedays
Member
These work well
JSB99
Well-Known Member
After I cut my plants down, I let the roots sit idle in the totes, for a couple days. I'm wondering if that had a lot to do with it. I didn't realize slime could develop so quickly. Originally, I was using the yellow lids, as-is. After a while, u covered the lids with Hydroton to help block the light. Not sure how much that helped. But now, the lids have several layers of thick paint, so I really doubt any light's going to make it through now.
Now that I have access to the roots, so I can check on them, I'll see if slime develops again.
JSB99
Well-Known Member
Cool! That's pretty much what I was looking at last night, after it was suggested that these were transmission oil coolers. However, I'm not sure I'm going to need it. I'll see how this next grow goes.
Budley Doright
Well-Known Member
I saw a guy put the big square fans behind them and use them as hydronic heaters in his house, looked rather ghetto but worked lol.
JSB99
Well-Known Member
LOL!
Budley Doright
Well-Known Member
Hey thanks I may buy one for inside the lab for running chilled water cooling
.
JSB99
Well-Known Member
I'm redoing my pipes. Initially, I wanted to use real bulkheads, but didn't have the money. I was able to get them recently. I cleaned the silicon from the totes and removed all previous pipes and fittings. Even though the silicon and my diy fittings didn't leak and we're pretty solid, it didn't allow me to break everything down for cleaning as far as I wanted. With the pipes being permanently mounted to the totes, I was having to move both totes and pipes, as a single unit. This will work way better, and be much less prone to leaking.
I'm going to have to cut bigger holes in my totes for the bulkheads, but it's easy with a jigsaw.
I'm going to have to cut bigger holes in my totes for the bulkheads, but it's easy with a jigsaw.
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Budley Doright
Well-Known Member
Holesaw will still work if you keep it tilted and use the edge of the original hole as your guide and just before you break through angle it straight. Jigsaw will work as well if your very careful.....I'm not lol.
Edit: ditch the pilot bit if redoing the holes with the drill
JSB99
Well-Known Member
Thankfully, I have lots of experience cutting these holes. My biggest hole saw is 2", but this looks to be around 2 3/8" to 2 5/8". But I'm pretty good with my jigsaw and Dremel
Budley Doright
Well-Known Member
Oh ya Dremel I could do but nope not jigsaw lol.Thankfully, I have lots of experience cutting these holes. My biggest hole saw is 2", but this looks to be around 2 3/8" to 2 5/8". But I'm pretty good with my jigsaw and Dremel
Edit: and that's why I have a huge holesaw collection lol.