Who uses reverse osmosis with super soil?

Hey now! What's up? Just got a well drilled and have high iron and manganese (not magnesium) you can see the particles settle out in Britta filter, for drinking water. Plants were not happy but they still flowered, lockout.
So I picked up hydrologic 300 gpd. Plants are doing better but will show some minor leaf twist.
Does anyone buffer water with cal/MG or rely on the cal/mg that is in the super soil.

You should use calmag when using RO water.

Renfro said:

You should use calmag when using RO water.

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Is calmag organic? Why do you need to use calmag with RO water? If the PH is 6.5-7, you would still use it?

Thanks

Normally tap water had some calcium and magnesium in it. After filtering it's all gone. There is a brand called True Organic that makes a cal mag supplement.

I've read some cal/mag can harm micro flora if you are not careful to select a good brand. I have a bottle of general hydo but I think it will be harsh to micro.
Some forums suggested top dressing with Epsom salt (magnesium sulphate) others have suggested foliar with Epsom salt, don't recall ratios.
Renfro are you growing in an amended soil? Or have experience with that. Just checking you're creds, don't take it as an insult. Thanks for help.
Peace from the northeast

Renfro said:

You should use calmag when using RO water.

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super soil has all the Ca and Mg it needs. no use for calmag with properly amended soils

Right on Shluby. Thanks alot. That is what the guy at grow store said, where I got ro machine.

One more question I'm hoping to get a reply about. I am running 2 6kwatt rooms next to each other. Keep getting pm, and the question is would the excessive iron and manganese cause that pm or old genetics that had pm even though no pm was showing, I know these cuts were prone to it. My dehumidifier stopped in middle of last flower cycle ( humidity spike).or I'm in a sealed room. Or combo of all these?
So I killed off all old genetic, gonna miss that royal dutch cheese.
Cleaned room over and over.
Burned sulfur
And started trying to be more proactive with IPM using neem, photosynthesis plus or triathalon
I have no pm now so I'm hoping for some other tips or hints.
Thanks from Maine

Dolldolphinfin said:

One more question I'm hoping to get a reply about. I am running 2 6kwatt rooms next to each other. Keep getting pm, and the question is would the excessive iron and manganese cause that pm or old genetics that had pm even though no pm was showing, I know these cuts were prone to it. My dehumidifier stopped in middle of last flower cycle ( humidity spike).or I'm in a sealed room. Or combo of all these?
So I killed off all old genetic, gonna miss that royal dutch cheese.
Cleaned room over and over.
Burned sulfur
And started trying to be more proactive with IPM using neem, photosynthesis plus or triathalon
I have no pm now so I'm hoping for some other tips or hints.
Thanks from Maine

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a podcast i listened to recently talked about plants that are given too much N are more prone to PM and insect infestations. the key to creating a tough environment for PM is having minimal temp swings between night and day. less than 10deg. is ideal. preventing rapid cool down between day and night temps is also critical. one of the reasons why i have my exhaust on a photosensor temp controller. soon as the lights go off, so does my exhaust fan. you must have environmental control during night still though, so circulating fans on, dehumidifier on, etc. another help with PM is trying to prevent leaves from laying on top of one another where humidity is trapped, and a microclimate is created for a PM spore to land, stick, and germinate. another thing noted by some growers is, if you grow in a room with an exposed cement floor, having some of buffer (like barn stall mats) over the floor will also help room temp gradually decrease when lights go out.

you did the right thing though, sulfur burn the environment and whatever plants are still around in it. i've had PM a couple times throughout my journey with this plant. the first time i got it, it took me a year to figure out how to break the lifecycle.

something else you can do is buy a box fan, and then buy a contractor merv 12 filter. tape the filter to the back of the box fan and leave no gaps between fan and filter untaped. seal it good. then turn the fan on full power. this will filter spores out of your environment (same as a hepa air unit but waaaaaaaaaaaay cheaper and filters more air much faster)

could old genetics make a plant more vulnerable? maybe so, hard to quantify that if your environment is not in check.

PM likes an acidic environment. PM also likes large swings in humidity, wet / dry / wet / dry.

Thanks for responses ShLUbY,Renfro and Mantis. Need all the help I can get! Will keep an eye out for overlapping leaves and wet dry wet dry conditions. I am likely to let the soil dry more than I should, and have read this might stress/weaken plant and allow pm to get a start.

Dolldolphinfin said:

Thanks for responses ShLUbY,Renfro and Mantis. Need all the help I can get! Will keep an eye out for overlapping leaves and wet dry wet dry conditions. I am likely to let the soil dry more than I should, and have read this might stress/weaken plant and allow pm to get a start.

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Soil should remain consistent moisture all the time, no more wet dry soil cycle. More harmful to your microbes than your plant in the short term, but long term yes will weaken the plant. Focus on your environment for the PM, that’s the major factor.

If you don’t monitor your daytime/nighttime temp swings, start doing that. Costs you 10-15$ for an indoor thermometer/hygrometer. Then you can make proper decisions based on actual information. Less than 10deg swings, try not to go below 70deg, insulate insulate insulate, stop running your exhaust at night (long as you have a dehuey that doesn’t shut off)

OK, I will keep soil moisture up by watering more often. I have a 2.5 ton a unit so i can stay at 70 it has a heat pump too. The fresh air vent is on timer so ithat won't bring in air during night cycle. I have the dehumidifier with a hose that runs to drain but the water filled bucket and shut dehumidifier down going to plug those holes in dehumidifier so it doesnt drain in bucket.
Should I still treat plants with sulfur burner just to be proactive.
Or neem and photosynthesis plus/ triathalon for IPM?
Thanks for the help. Going out to water with more confidante right now. Am about to switch over to flower.

Dolldolphinfin said:

OK, I will keep soil moisture up by watering more often. I have a 2.5 ton a unit so i can stay at 70 it has a heat pump too. The fresh air vent is on timer so ithat won't bring in air during night cycle. I have the dehumidifier with a hose that runs to drain but the water filled bucket and shut dehumidifier down going to plug those holes in dehumidifier so it doesnt drain in bucket.
Should I still treat plants with sulfur burner just to be proactive.
Or neem and photosynthesis plus/ triathalon for IPM?
Thanks for the help. Going out to water with more confidante right now. Am about to switch over to flower.

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sulfur burner always worked best for me. do not use sulfur burner if you have put neem on within the last 5-7 days. i would do a sulfur burn again, and then a week later start using neem on a weekly basis until you flip. i used to put cinnamon oil (just a few drops) with the neem/aloe/agsil concoction. cinnamon is a good antifungal.

Isn't coconut water high in cal/mag?

Just looked it up. Coconut water has alot of magnesium but only a little bit of calcium. But at least you can use coconut water as a organic source of mag...

Right on lemmy I've got some powdered coconut water in stock. And it says mag

Hey now!
I have got the temp and rh monitors, im at12 degrees temp swing. Humidity in check no pm so far.
We are still having trouble with ro'd water. Most all plants are happy but one in flower is locking out. the ro'd water ph is 5.4
So my question is do I need to ph up?
Does super soil have enough lime to balance out such a low ph?

You should PH up if the water is 5.4. Bone meal in the dirt can help. Whats the PH of your well water before RO? Whats the TDS reading before and after RO?

You want to avoid the sulfates if your water is overly acidic.