If your all-caps condition is applied to hydro, your objections disappear. But both camps are equally at risk of being swayed by fancy rainbow graphics in the hydro store. I've seen'em on both sides of the aisle: full hydro and soil/organic, gaudily selling various degrees of ophidian lubricant. On the practical plane both have their constellations of advantages or features. Hydro is agile and appeals to the tinkerer. Soil/organic is stable, low-maintenance and appeals to the traditionalist. Jmo. cnThats just the thing... With hydroponics, you can pump the plant with way more nutrients than it needs because you are applying nutrients in salt form. When they mix in water, they break into their ionic form. This means the plant can't "drink" without guzzling down whatever ions you've dumped into your res. In organics (IF DONE PROPERLY) the plant is in full control of what it takes in. By releasing specific exudates (high-energy carbon based foods for microlife) the plant is able to attract the appropriate microbiology to its root zone. This microlife (bact, fung, arch, Protozoa, nematodes, etc) then releases only the nutrients the plant has "requested" by releasing a certain exudate. Get it set up properly, and you cruise through entire seasons with very few additions or issues. No pH checking, no EC checking, no res temp to monitor, no pumps to break, no risk of flooding, etc.
Bottom line is we're all gonna do what works for us. I suggest you all at least give it a try .
If your all-caps condition is applied to hydro, your objections disappear. But both camps are equally at risk of being swayed by fancy rainbow graphics in the hydro store. I've seen'em on both sides of the aisle: full hydro and soil/organic, gaudily selling various degrees of ophidian lubricant. On the practical plane both have their constellations of advantages or features. Hydro is agile and appeals to the tinkerer. Soil/organic is stable, low-maintenance and appeals to the traditionalist. Jmo. cn
They are not a joke if you stay away from the "snake oils", and buy the products your plants need. All manafacturers/retail outlets use marketing to sell products; the hydroponic (marijuana) industry is no different and if you expected it to be shame on you!Yeah... Hydro stores are a joke, if you ask me. They carry a fantastic variety of high potency snake oil. :/
I agree. Its always funny when I see someone buying a $90 tub of mycorrhiza and a $40 tub of some schmancy 0-50-50 or whatever "bulking agent" or "Bud explosion" or whatnot. I feel like telling them "you know... the thing in your left hand will actually kill the thing in your right hand"... Ha!They are not a joke if you stay away from the "snake oils", and buy the products your plants need. All manafacturers/retail outlets use marketing to sell products; the hydroponic (marijuana) industry is no different and if you expected it to be shame on you!
Usually grow shops carry the full range of products, cheap and "worthwile" through to expensive and "snake oil"; the consumer needs to be educated to but the correct product.
regards,
would be applicable to outdoors and feasible, but in containers NOT...NOT enough time for all that to occur, resources to sustain such nor volume to properly establish, leaving the grower to having to resort to "organic" fertilizer additions....whereas with the synthetics no need to worry about keeping two things alive, only the plant, and the plant also only uses what it needs or wants....the reasoning for the bennies and mychos becoming dormant in soils with synthetics is because they are not needed as the plant is able to get the ready to go nutrients on its own....imo organic is a major pia with little to no way of correcting...just try fixing an over application of blood meal for instance...idk where you get this thinking that synths allow force feeding of plants as they do not...it still will only take what it needs and if overfed even in soiless a simple flushing of the medium will correct it....not the case with organics in containers...Thats just the thing... With hydroponics, you can pump the plant with way more nutrients than it needs because you are applying nutrients in salt form. When they mix in water, they break into their ionic form. This means the plant can't "drink" without guzzling down whatever ions you've dumped into your res. In organics (IF DONE PROPERLY) the plant is in full control of what it takes in. By releasing specific exudates (high-energy carbon based foods for microlife) the plant is able to attract the appropriate microbiology to its root zone. This microlife (bact, fung, arch, Protozoa, nematodes, etc) then releases only the nutrients the plant has "requested" by releasing a certain exudate. Get it set up properly, and you cruise through entire seasons with very few additions or issues. No pH checking, no EC checking, no res temp to monitor, no pumps to break, no risk of flooding, etc.
Bottom line is we're all gonna do what works for us. I suggest you all at least give it a try .
The soil food web very much DOES apply to organic gardening in containers if you build your soil in advance and make sure it is inoculated with beneficial life. The "organic fertilizers" you speak of (blood, bone, alfalfa, compost, kelp, molasses, etc) are food for the life in your soil, thus, they are a very real part of a living soil food web within your bucket of soil. Can you burn a plant with blood meal? Sure you can, but I bet you won't do it twice. There's always a learning curve whatever method you choose.would be applicable to outdoors and feasible, but in containers NOT...NOT enough time for all that to occur, resources to sustain such nor volume to properly establish, leaving the grower to having to resort to "organic" fertilizer additions....whereas with the synthetics no need to worry about keeping two things alive, only the plant, and the plant also only uses what it needs or wants....the reasoning for the bennies and mychos becoming dormant in soils with synthetics is because they are not needed as the plant is able to get the ready to go nutrients on its own....imo organic is a major pia with little to no way of correcting...just try fixing an over application of blood meal for instance...idk where you get this thinking that synths allow force feeding of plants as they do not...it still will only take what it needs and if overfed even in soiless a simple flushing of the medium will correct it....not the case with organics in containers...
well imo more trouble for no benefits...slower growth , less yield, and even taste and smell have not been better so why the extra trouble and lil to no way of correcting... and excuse me but no you cannot build your web in a container...was already stated in previous post...The soil food web very much DOES apply to organic gardening in containers if you build your soil in advance and make sure it is inoculated with beneficial life. The "organic fertilizers" you speak of (blood, bone, alfalfa, compost, kelp, molasses, etc) are food for the life in your soil, thus, they are a very real part of a living soil food web within your bucket of soil. Can you burn a plant with blood meal? Sure you can, but I bet you won't do it twice. There's always a learning curve whatever method you choose.
I do not know why you are either...you obviously knowitall already so must be trying to educate us know nothings I presume....fyi I have been doing this since before any of these stupid ass forums with these knowitalls (see above) even existed...as again you fail to see my point...why bother with feeding bennies then have them feed the plants when you can just feed the plants...you made my point also when you stated you have to add shit to keep it going ...it is not a complete nor sustainable web in containers...I really hope you stop wasting your time...also do you not realize that if we stopped using Chems as you desire in Agriculture half the world will not get food? oh yeah you dont care about that...no you worried about the dying swimming dogs...laughable if it wasn't so idioticOk... So I mix a soil with alfalfa in it, then I apply a compost tea. Chunks of aflalfa are obviously too big for the plant to "eat". Instead, bacteria eat the alfalfa, then protazoa eat the bacteria, then the protazoa crap out plant available nutrition, right in the root zone. Explain to me how that is NOT a soil food web? Do you have any scientific research to back this up? Published articles? Anything? Have you ever taken a class in microbiology? Biology? Chemistry? Botany? Soil science? Or are you just regurgitating stuff you've read on hydroponics forums? Not sure why I'm even wasting my time here...
obviously you do not know much about cannabis genetics either as you use subfool's pollen chunking pheno hell strains...have fun with that...to quote youOk... So I mix a soil with alfalfa in it, then I apply a compost tea. Chunks of aflalfa are obviously too big for the plant to "eat". Instead, bacteria eat the alfalfa, then protazoa eat the bacteria, then the protazoa crap out plant available nutrition, right in the root zone. Explain to me how that is NOT a soil food web? Do you have any scientific research to back this up? Published articles? Anything? Have you ever taken a class in microbiology? Biology? Chemistry? Botany? Soil science? Or are you just regurgitating stuff you've read on hydroponics forums? Not sure why I'm even wasting my time here...
Ok... So I mix a soil with alfalfa in it, then I apply a compost tea. Chunks of aflalfa are obviously too big for the plant to "eat". Instead, bacteria eat the alfalfa, then protazoa eat the bacteria, then the protazoa crap out plant available nutrition, right in the root zone. Explain to me how that is NOT a soil food web? Do you have any scientific research to back this up? Published articles? Anything? Have you ever taken a class in microbiology? Biology? Chemistry? Botany? Soil science? Or are you just regurgitating stuff you've read on hydroponics forums? Not sure why I'm even wasting my time here...
keep on growing yellow plants in shit with shit genetics ....read above quote again...later
as stated before you don't know jack...you call this nice? YELLOW IS NOT GOOD FOOL...done with your idiocy...have a great existence
Hydro massively out yields organics, so there is that too.If your all-caps condition is applied to hydro, your objections disappear. But both camps are equally at risk of being swayed by fancy rainbow graphics in the hydro store. I've seen'em on both sides of the aisle: full hydro and soil/organic, gaudily selling various degrees of ophidian lubricant. On the practical plane both have their constellations of advantages or features. Hydro is agile and appeals to the tinkerer. Soil/organic is stable, low-maintenance and appeals to the traditionalist. Jmo. cn
PC vs mac is a good analogy. Like a mac, with organics you're paying a whole lot more for a look while getting less in return.It's kinda like Mac Vs. PC... Ford vs. Chevy... no matter what side you come down on and your reasons why, in the end they both do the same thing, with the real difference and the greatest variable being the operator.