Why use less molasses? I want my bud as sweet and dense as possible

The White Buffalo

Active Member
Hey King! In regards to the lack of taste in soiless...I have had good success with Earth Juice. Taste seems to be there pretty close to soil and it actually seems to be pretty easy to use and foregiving since it's organic. A little mis measure and not a big deal. The girls won't freak out on ya. I always bubble for 24 hr and never PH. Never had a problem. Might be worth looking into.
I do add a few ammendments to the "soil less" mix as well.
 

kingofqueen

Well-Known Member
I dont blame the soiless , it's running it with no ammendments . I've seen good comments about earth juice . I use Dyna Gro and Jacks Classic .
 

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
:oI don't get this. I use a tablespoon per gallon in bloom and half that when in veg. And i cant see why i should cut back on this
Then don't! Those amounts aren't going to hurt anything and the molasses police aren't interested. LOL

I've cut down on the amounts and frequency of my molasses usage. This came about from experience and observation, not from reading anything. It should be the same for you. Keep using the molasses, observe. Vary the amounts and frequency and observe some more. You'll see what works best for you and your situation and that's what it's all about.

Wet
 

Plowboy

Member
LOL Dipshit Edition? hahaha! I'm definitely not an expert (currently on my 4th grow all organic soil.) I do not use store-bought cal/mag or micro-nutrient formulas. I didn't use molasses on the first 2 grows. The third grow I used 1 tsp. molasses/1 gal. water throughout veg and flower except for the last 2 weeks. I noticed an improvement in taste that wasn't there the first 2 grows. It wasn't necessarily sweeter but brought more of the plants natural flavors. I like the effects and will continue to use molasses.

Peace
PB
 

Nullis

Moderator
If there is ANY nutrient which is limited, you'll have inferior bud. Molasses with its potassium and broad trace mineral content can indeed help to fully nourish a plant.
 

watchhowIdoit

New Member
correct in the sense of high level stress but a good unstressed plant wont notice and if you going w/ dolomite or something i especially wouldn't do it. but your just getting rid if buildup salts nutes sugar ect. and thats why you do it 2 weeks b4 harvest so if it does go into shock it will only be 4 a few days. when you get rid of all the buildup it leaves room for your plant to drain out its nutes back into the soil hence why we harvest b4 lights on.
A plants drains nutes back into the soil? And this happens during likes out? Please explain...
 

Da Almighty Jew

Well-Known Member
Then don't! Those amounts aren't going to hurt anything and the molasses police aren't interested. LOL

I've cut down on the amounts and frequency of my molasses usage. This came about from experience and observation, not from reading anything. It should be the same for you. Keep using the molasses, observe. Vary the amounts and frequency and observe some more. You'll see what works best for you and your situation and that's what it's all about.

Wet
wetdog i have a question for you. Since you cut back on your molasses then what do you use as a carb load during flowering time? bongsmilie
 

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
wetdog i have a question for you. Since you cut back on your molasses then what do you use as a carb load during flowering time? bongsmilie
Just what's in my teas. I really don't go along with all this 'carb load' stuff, not if the micro herd is healthy and thriving. They can only absorb and eat so much, just like a plant can only absorb so many nutes. You get nute burn in a plant, or one hell of a bacteria 'bloom', neither of which is a good thing.

Balance is the key word here.

I don't flush, but I do just water only the last couple of weeks and no molasses. I did notice once, when I was doing a 'molasses flush/watering' I really got the ol snap crackle pop in my smoke. Found out later it was probably the molasses supplying too much in the way of minerals and the excess causes that condition. So now, I add nothing the last couple of weeks. The soil still has stuff in it of course, just nothing new added. Haven't had any more of the SCP since.

Wet
 

skiweeds

Active Member
i've grown in soil both with molasses and without. i noticed virtually no difference. magnesium and sulfur are what brings out the flavors in your buds. but you still want to flush with plain water or a flushing agent at the end. i save my molasses for beer brewing.
 

skiweeds

Active Member
A plants drains nutes back into the soil? And this happens during likes out? Please explain...
yes, during darkness the nutrients go back into the soil. the plant is basically in sleep mode. also this is why a lot of people put their plant in the dark for 2-3 days before harvest. makes your smoke a little smoother. even in dark though, without a flush, your plants will taste like chemical. i've tested it out before.
 

skiweeds

Active Member
also if you want your buds as sweet and dense as possible, molasses wont do that. your main thing is light. 1000w hps are too hot imo so i use 2 600s in place of each 1000w. i use 30''x40'' cool tubes and a 720cfm exhaust. lots of circ fans also. my plants can literally touch the glass and not burn. also co2 will really help dense up buds. you may also see a 60% yield increase if done properly. but you need a generator or the tanks with a control unit to measure the ppms for best results. co2 pucks and carbonated water are junk, they wont do shit because its such a small increase. also use a hardener to dense up buds. they're basically just a high phosphorus nutrient and usually have sugars/carbs to help the plant take in more nutrients. your main thing for hard buds is lighting though. i wouldnt use anything less than a 400w hps with efficient cooling. people always bitch about the price and electricity but you will easily get your money back. for sweet buds use a sweetener, but if you look at their active ingredients its just sulfur and magnesium.

also maintain a proper ph. your ph determines your nutrient uptake. too high of a ph and your plants wont take in enough macronutrients and too many micronutrients. too low of a ph and your plants will take in too much macro nutrients especially phosphorus, and too little micronutrients. hydro check as often as possible. soil is easier and the ph may even stay balanced if you add enough lime in the soil mix. i dont mix my own soils, i use foxfarm, but i do add lime because they usually test too hot(too low of a ph).
 

Cooter@666

Well-Known Member
well i have only just started using molasses in my plants but i don't use it alone, in fact here we mix it about 1 part molasses 3 parts water and 1 part EM (effective micro organisms) these will not only help break down the molasses better but after activation they will have a feeding frenzy which will result in nitro, and as they multiply they will end up breaking other plants mater down in the soil, which means any manure or compost you have in the soil will get converted slowly allowing your plants food gradually. i am just beginning to do this in pots with mj but we do it with all our other plants here and it works great, it ensures no top dressing with any chems so we stay very organic.
EM-1 is great! I also use it the same way you do and i've never had healthier plants!
 

mugan

Well-Known Member
YA our whole farm runs on it, i d k where we would be right now waiting years for cow shit to break down :3
 

Nullis

Moderator
yes, during darkness the nutrients go back into the soil. the plant is basically in sleep mode. also this is why a lot of people put their plant in the dark for 2-3 days before harvest. makes your smoke a little smoother. even in dark though, without a flush, your plants will taste like chemical. i've tested it out before.
And you heard this info from... ?? The theory just doesn't appear to hold water. Arguably plants don't go in "sleep mode". They photosynthesize during the day to make sugars from light, carbon dioxide and water. In the dark\without light the stomata close up and photosynthesis stops; but the plant still has all of this stored energy it can utilize. Most of the nutrients they assimilate are ultimately being used to assemble compounds that are physically needed to give the plant its structure and carry out it's basic life processes as well as synthesize the much more complex compounds found in cannabis that give it aroma, taste and medicinal\psychoactive effect.

Roots exude various compounds into the rhizosphere to attract micro-organisms, but if the nutrients "go back into the soil" at night then how would plants even exist?
 

LRGenius420

Member


Has anybody ever tried using Humboldt Honey ES with their soil amendment? its completely organic. ingredients are derived from: Pure cane molasses, volcanic ash, yucca extract, seaplant extract, Quillaja saponaria, and Montmotillonite. Total N. 0.45 Total P. 0.25 Total K. 1.80%. I thought this would be almost good to add throughout the whole flowering phase every other watering..
Has anybody else every used something similar? this stuff smells like an even stronger blackstrapp molasses almost!!!
Also should i still leave cal-mag out of this with what mollases it has?
 

SMOKEnCHOKE

Active Member
Has anybody ever tried using Humboldt Honey ES with their soil amendment? its completely organic. ingredients are derived from: Pure cane molasses, volcanic ash, yucca extract, seaplant extract, Quillaja saponaria, and Montmotillonite. Total N. 0.45 Total P. 0.25 Total K. 1.80%. I thought this would be almost good to add throughout the whole flowering phase every other watering..
Has anybody else every used something similar? this stuff smells like an even stronger blackstrapp molasses almost!!!
Also should i still leave cal-mag out of this with what mollases it has?
I use humboldt honey es every week...works great
 
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