Finally getting to wiring my light and trying to finalize a plan of how I want to put it all together. Can I use the 18/2 with the full output of the driver? I am using a MW HLG-185h-48a ( 48v @ 4a )and running it to 4 CXM22 leds. What I am wondering if I can do is use that wire from the driver output about 8 feet away to a distribution block on my light where it will be split into 4 for parallel wiring. I have seen the wiring rated at 150v and 300v so I am not sure what to go by and how amps play in to those ratings. Also lastly, would I be ok using thermostat wiring for 120v @ 2a? Thank you for the help!
Wiring question about types and ratings
- Thread starter phishguy
- Start date
CobKits
Well-Known Member
look at the rating stamped on the cable assembly. the thermostat wire i use and sell on the site is CMR/CLR2 rated - 300V
http://www.cerroretail.com/electrical/product-line/specialty-wire/thermostat/
voltage is a function of insulation
ampacity (i.e current carrying capacity) is a function of wire gauge, and is required to be reduced when 3 or more conductors are in a cable/conduit/etc. is not usually spec'd on cable because it varies how you use it (free air, conduit, buried, etc)
Note 8 to the ampacity tables in the NEC contains the requirement columns for derating ampacity because of adjacent current-carrying conductors. This note states that when the number of conductors in a raceway or cable exceeds 3, the ampacities are to be reduced by the appropriate percentage.
18 ga per NEC is 5.6A ampacity continuous. since there are only 2 conductors in t-stat cable it is rated for full 5.6A continuous. most of us run 2A or less so there is plenty of headroom.
http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Electrical/Resources/solution-center/industrial_control_panels/BUS_Ele_Small_Conductor_Protection.pdf
for long runs always upsize your wires to reduce voltage drop. google "voltage drop calculator" theres tons of them online. if youre mounting a big high-current driver like an HLG 320 or 600 in another room, 12/2 romex is cheap and widely available
a 13A HLG-600-48 will lose 0.41V over 10 feet of 12 ga, but will lose 1.04V over 16GA - thats 17 watts thats going straight to heat, where it could be less than 6 with adequate wire sizing.
voltage drop is particularly important when youre running a driver near its voltage limit (like 50V cobs on a 48A, or 4 36V cobs on an 185-1400b
http://www.cerroretail.com/electrical/product-line/specialty-wire/thermostat/
voltage is a function of insulation
ampacity (i.e current carrying capacity) is a function of wire gauge, and is required to be reduced when 3 or more conductors are in a cable/conduit/etc. is not usually spec'd on cable because it varies how you use it (free air, conduit, buried, etc)
Note 8 to the ampacity tables in the NEC contains the requirement columns for derating ampacity because of adjacent current-carrying conductors. This note states that when the number of conductors in a raceway or cable exceeds 3, the ampacities are to be reduced by the appropriate percentage.
18 ga per NEC is 5.6A ampacity continuous. since there are only 2 conductors in t-stat cable it is rated for full 5.6A continuous. most of us run 2A or less so there is plenty of headroom.
http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Electrical/Resources/solution-center/industrial_control_panels/BUS_Ele_Small_Conductor_Protection.pdf
for long runs always upsize your wires to reduce voltage drop. google "voltage drop calculator" theres tons of them online. if youre mounting a big high-current driver like an HLG 320 or 600 in another room, 12/2 romex is cheap and widely available
a 13A HLG-600-48 will lose 0.41V over 10 feet of 12 ga, but will lose 1.04V over 16GA - thats 17 watts thats going straight to heat, where it could be less than 6 with adequate wire sizing.
voltage drop is particularly important when youre running a driver near its voltage limit (like 50V cobs on a 48A, or 4 36V cobs on an 185-1400b
Last edited:
CobKits
Well-Known Member
if its on the AC side id just use regular 14, 16 ga grounded cable. you want 3 conductors and you want something durable since its AC. cut up an extension cord if you have to.
Thanks for the replies.. I was attempting to bring the DC voltage as well as AC for fan drivers to my light with a single 18/6 t-stat wire for simplicity.. I've realized it's not that much simpler than running proper wiring to the light so that's what I'm doing.. Thanks again for the replies!
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