World Of Hempy

yankeetransplant

yankeetransplant

Well-Known Member
I use MOST of my runoff for outdoor ornamentals AND veggies....Every stick a tomato plant in a hempy bucket outdoors....Peppers, cukes whatever...Hempy buckets grow ANYTHING you want...great place to use your runoff......
I give tomatoes and cukes away cause the buckets produce so many......Maybe your rural enuf to have a cpl outdoor weed plants you can sweeten with runoff mix...
 
MannyPacs

MannyPacs

Well-Known Member
yankeetransplant said:
I dump it on my outdoor flower and vegetable beds if thats what you mean...If your talking about reusing it in buckets, I wouldn't even consider a negligent chance like that...It maybe cost me $3 per bucket (If I had to guess) to cover the cost....My 6 buckets would cost UNDER $20 worth of mix (total)....I get an AVERAGE of about a 2lb return for less than $20 in mix...The time alone to reclaim, clean, disinfect/bake would be totally foolish...NOT TO MENTION the chance of MISSING any bacteria that could easily form on particles of roots all thru it.....If I CANT COME OFF A WHOLE $20 FOR A 2 LB RETURN OF HIGH GRADE BUD, I SHOULDN'T EVEN BE GROWING....
This is also a Drain To Waste system....So I'm guessing you might consider REUSING the mix that RUNS OFF when watering...DONT DO THAT EITHER....ITS Drain to WASTE....I'm not trying to be sarcastic but if you would consider reusing medium, you would probably consider reusing your runoff...BAD PRACTICE for the returns you SHOULD expect....The pH will be off (which could be adjusted), But your RATIOS of nutrients can never be determined....just HORRIBLE PRACTICE....I use a Bottle of Dyna FOLIAGE PRO for vegging (not even a whole qt. total), And about 1.5qts of Dyna's BLOOM formula for flowering.......MAYBE $65 worth of nutes per crop....I water to a 40-50% run-off too...It keeps everything stable as can be cause its VERY SELF FLUSHING that way...Other than electric, the medium and nutes expense is $80-$90......You can do the math for prices for an oz in your area, TIMES the return you should be getting.....The expenses are CHUMP CHANGE, as its called around my parts...
Short cuts and PENNY PINCHING will always come back to bite you...
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I just had this same debate with someone regarding reusing coco coir. Sure you can do it but the time it takes to do it right and the risks that you listed make it not worth the couple dollars saved. It's just the wrong place to try and "recycle"
 
.Smoke

.Smoke

Well-Known Member
I found this thread when I first started growing. Made my buckets pretty much following the instructions in the first few threads.

After 3 years I still can't find anything to complain about when it comes to Hempy. It sure does make life simple and grow some beautiful plants.
IMG_20220326_102353.jpgIMG_20220326_102334.jpg
 
yankeetransplant

yankeetransplant

Well-Known Member
right on...I've used them all over the decades and it BY FAR simplifies growing, with the quality results...not sure if you ever investigated defoliation methods???....If not, you can bring your yields way up....Looks pretty thick with foliage in there...Beautiful and healthy no doubt, but preflower and Especially a cpl weeks into flower, you want to open budding sites up to strong light....
BEAUTIFUL LOOKING TENT!!!!
www.growweedeasy.com

Cannabis Defoliation Tutorial To Increase Yields | Grow Weed Easy

Controversial defoliation can increase your yields dramatically indoors... but removing leaves is for advanced growers only! When done wrong, defoliation can kill your plants!
www.growweedeasy.com www.growweedeasy.com
 
yankeetransplant

yankeetransplant

Well-Known Member
The title of that Defol Link is pretty misleading...It was written yrs ago but the technique is the same....as you can see, its saying its for advanced growers only...NOT SO....
They were afraid someone might cut every pc of green matter out of their garden....The world is full of ppl without a lot of common sence....I always use a rule about the leaf PETIOLE (Leaf stem)...If you can get your fingers on the petiole, it can be removed during your defol session....
It leaves plenty of green on them....It allows a LOT of tops up in your canopy, and lets light down in far enuf for jar worthy secondary nugs...Check it out sometime..You seem VERY READY for techniques that will WAY UP your yields...SHIT, maybe you already use defol techniques...If so, share your experience and maybe some full bloom pics if you have some...I NEVER get bored talking shop..LOL....pic is from last Hempy crop...current one is 5 weeks into flower....YT2022-01-29_13-26-22-768.jpg
 
yankeetransplant

yankeetransplant

Well-Known Member
These 2 pics (and a 3rd I'll mention later), are my current one but about a week old now...Need to get some week 5 pics....The left side is all known Do-si-dos cuttings..the right is Gelato from seed...Already grew some Gelato last crop, but I'm looking for a better pheno than I got the 1st time...I find it helps me to ponder over MY OWN pics...Sometimes you see something at a different time and state of mind....Nice to have a flash drive for your smart phone to document your crops....Pics are a valuable tool these day to view results of ANYTHING you might do different...The seedling close up (3rd pic) Is a technique I like to use if I start any NEW SEEDS...I grow mostly from cuttings of my BEST phenotypes I find....The seed game is tough these days...typically out of a group of 10, I'm lucky to find a cpl worthy of reproducing (cuttings)..If a lot of SEEDLING look pretty and you only have room for a certain amt of plants, I DO THIS...I take a few pics of grow tips...crop them so I can see them close up....you will find that plants that will be VERY resinous as adults, will show premature resins 3-4 weeks after sprouting...I will usually grow out 3-4 plants out of a group of 10 seeds, and using closeup pics, like this, is a nice TOOL to choose plants that SHOULD grow into great specimens....Its pretty accurate method if your up in the air on which seeds to grow all the way out....It WAY UPS your odds of NOT GROWING OUT mediocre plants and helps you find the best in seed groups....In this case, I only have 2 of these Double Chocolate seeds, but room for just one of them next crop....The other had virtually NO premature resins on it....I ALWAYS TELL PPL, the seed game is like playing scratch off lotto tickets.... SOMETIMES you find a winner, but most are losers...Keep your standards high and you will have a collection of epic cuttings in no time...YT2022-03-19_01-05-33-565.jpg20220320_155930~4.jpg2022-03-25_01-12-13-352.jpg
 
yankeetransplant

yankeetransplant

Well-Known Member
.Smoke said:
Hempy goodness...
View attachment 5115568View attachment 5115569
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Your set up and nutrient regime OBVIOUSLY is working for you....They are THICK AND LUSH AS THEY GET.....Thick and Lush makes for pretty pictures, but becomes a MAJOR ISSUE when you finally figure out that growing BUDS is far more rewarding than growing LEAVES.....EVERYTHING in that pic is going to end up in trash or compost pile....SO WHY NOT PREP THEM FOR PRODUCING BUDS....That canopy is SO THICK, it looks like you could get on top of it and take a nap....NOT LIGHT CANT PENETRATE IT.....the only decent buds, will be on branching that elongates above the canopy....Your cutting yourself WAY short on what those plants COULD YIELD for you......
I GET THAT you've only grown a cpl yrs and are VERY PROUD OF THOSE, AND YOU SHOULD BE....What your doing is working excellent for you.... But they require defoliation techniques to get light DOWN INTO THE PLANT BETTER.....I'm NOT shooting from the hip about this..I've been growing INDOORS since 1979.....It can more issues than just low yield and a boatload of less than quality buds (Due to low light levels)...Circulation is also a big issue when its that thick and choked with leaves....MOLD can become a concern.....Defol is important just prior to flower and.VERY important a cpl weeks into flower...But it also advantageous to keep them reasonably open to light during veg....your plants will have a better structure and all the secondary branching, That will have good chunky buds, Will greatly benefit....
From the pic alone, you can see how DARK it is underneath....Dont the crickets keep you awake at night, LOLJK....We do this for the buds, NOT FOR LEAVES....You KNOW HOW TO GROW A HEALTHY PLANT, its time to start some techniques that will get you the MOST buds...without it, when your in a trimming session, YOUR SHAKE pile will be lot bigger than your JAR WORTHY BUD PILE....Dont cut yourself short....SHADE IS THE ENEMY!!!!!....YT
 
.Smoke

.Smoke

Well-Known Member
yankeetransplant said:
Your set up and nutrient regime OBVIOUSLY is working for you....They are THICK AND LUSH AS THEY GET.....Thick and Lush makes for pretty pictures, but becomes a MAJOR ISSUE when you finally figure out that growing BUDS is far more rewarding than growing LEAVES.....EVERYTHING in that pic is going to end up in trash or compost pile....SO WHY NOT PREP THEM FOR PRODUCING BUDS....That canopy is SO THICK, it looks like you could get on top of it and take a nap....NOT LIGHT CANT PENETRATE IT.....the only decent buds, will be on branching that elongates above the canopy....Your cutting yourself WAY short on what those plants COULD YIELD for you......
I GET THAT you've only grown a cpl yrs and are VERY PROUD OF THOSE, AND YOU SHOULD BE....What your doing is working excellent for you.... But they require defoliation techniques to get light DOWN INTO THE PLANT BETTER.....I'm NOT shooting from the hip about this..I've been growing INDOORS since 1979.....It can more issues than just low yield and a boatload of less than quality buds (Due to low light levels)...Circulation is also a big issue when its that thick and choked with leaves....MOLD can become a concern.....Defol is important just prior to flower and.VERY important a cpl weeks into flower...But it also advantageous to keep them reasonably open to light during veg....your plants will have a better structure and all the secondary branching, That will have good chunky buds, Will greatly benefit....
From the pic alone, you can see how DARK it is underneath....Dont the crickets keep you awake at night, LOLJK....We do this for the buds, NOT FOR LEAVES....You KNOW HOW TO GROW A HEALTHY PLANT, its time to start some techniques that will get you the MOST buds...without it, when your in a trimming session, YOUR SHAKE pile will be lot bigger than your JAR WORTHY BUD PILE....Dont cut yourself short....SHADE IS THE ENEMY!!!!!....YT
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My eyes could only get through half of that post.

It's only day 13 since the flip. No defoliation will be done until day 21. This isn't my first grow.
 
H

hoskie

New Member
Hi folks, I'm planning my first hempy grow and am planning a system based on the passive, self-watering system shared by Scotty of TheDudegrows shown here:
This design keeps a constant water level in all buckets at all times by connecting all buckets to a separate water reservoir containing a float valve that controls the water level. That reservoir is in turn fed by another water tank whenever the float valve goes down a bit. I will still have holes in each bucket about 2" from bottom (just above the water l set) to avoid overwatering if there there's a problem with the float valve and to allow me to switch to top-watering if there's problems with system. It will look similar to the system in the attached picture, but without any pumps or top watering rings.

I do understand that there could be issues with standing water--I will use black plastic buckets and avoid organic nutes in tank to try and avoid algae issues. I also have read posts by guys that have automatic self-watering systems using pumps & timers, but I am trying to go super simple here as I have had timer problems before when away.

My goal in trying this system is not to maximize yield, but rather to reduce maintenance and be able to go away on short trips without coming back to dying plants. In fact, I want to grow small plants as I have limited indoor space (2x4 tent w/100w Spider Farmer LED), only grow for myself, and am now seeking variety. So I will use square buckets that are between 1 to 1.5 gallons as my pots

In line with my goals, I was hoping to use a controlled release fertilizer in the medium (likely coco & perlite) and only feed with PH'd water and Cal-Mag if needed. Unfortunately, I live far from the US and cannot obtain Grow Dots or Osmocote Plus (15-9-12) The local Osmocote here only comes in 13-13-13 or 12-25-6. I've read WattSaver's posts and it seems the 13-13-13 runs out of steam. However, I am growing autoflowers, so perhaps my cycle will be shorter? Alternatively, I could skip the CRF and use a synthetic nutrient line in the tank, but that raises questions about how much can I mix in advance and keep in the feed tank. Does anyone here have advice on how to move forward here? Or, if anyone has tried this kind of system before and has any advice (including "Don't do it"), I'd really appreciate that. Thanks!
 

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yankeetransplant

yankeetransplant

Well-Known Member
hoskie said:
Hi folks, I'm planning my first hempy grow and am planning a system based on the passive, self-watering system shared by Scotty of TheDudegrows shown here:
This design keeps a constant water level in all buckets at all times by connecting all buckets to a separate water reservoir containing a float valve that controls the water level. That reservoir is in turn fed by another water tank whenever the float valve goes down a bit. I will still have holes in each bucket about 2" from bottom (just above the water l set) to avoid overwatering if there there's a problem with the float valve and to allow me to switch to top-watering if there's problems with system. It will look similar to the system in the attached picture, but without any pumps or top watering rings.

I do understand that there could be issues with standing water--I will use black plastic buckets and avoid organic nutes in tank to try and avoid algae issues. I also have read posts by guys that have automatic self-watering systems using pumps & timers, but I am trying to go super simple here as I have had timer problems before when away.

My goal in trying this system is not to maximize yield, but rather to reduce maintenance and be able to go away on short trips without coming back to dying plants. In fact, I want to grow small plants as I have limited indoor space (2x4 tent w/100w Spider Farmer LED), only grow for myself, and am now seeking variety. So I will use square buckets that are between 1 to 1.5 gallons as my pots

In line with my goals, I was hoping to use a controlled release fertilizer in the medium (likely coco & perlite) and only feed with PH'd water and Cal-Mag if needed. Unfortunately, I live far from the US and cannot obtain Grow Dots or Osmocote Plus (15-9-12) The local Osmocote here only comes in 13-13-13 or 12-25-6. I've read WattSaver's posts and it seems the 13-13-13 runs out of steam. However, I am growing autoflowers, so perhaps my cycle will be shorter? Alternatively, I could skip the CRF and use a synthetic nutrient line in the tank, but that raises questions about how much can I mix in advance and keep in the feed tank. Does anyone here have advice on how to move forward here? Or, if anyone has tried this kind of system before and has any advice (including "Don't do it"), I'd really appreciate that. Thanks!
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What your doing at that point is NO LONGER a Hempy bucket...One you start automating, your introducing more potential problems...Hempy is a DTW (Drain To Waste), system, with the added feature of having your drain hole higher up on the side if the bucket (Usually 2in with 3-5gal buckets)....All this does is gives you convenience of going LONGER btwn waterings since there is then a Built-in 2inch deep internal reservoir....
NEVER USE TIME RELEASE NUTES IN A HEMPY OR ANY DTW SYSTEM....It defeats the purpose and the beautiful balance of HYDROPONIC nutes you feed them....
the added work of maintaining an external res is not worth the effort and potential issues.....WHY DONT YOU USE A STANDARD HEMPY DESIGN AND A QUALITY NUTE????...Its a tried and true system....DONT SKIMP ON SHITTY NUTES....THERE ARE plenty of nutes on the market which are available to anyone, anywhere....YOU HAVE NO CONTROL over time release crap...Use a quality nute thats readily available for uptake....I dont care if you live in Timbuk2 or Timbuk3, You can get nutes that will work fine....Dont settle for crap nutes to avoid a little leg work....quality nutes are imperative for success....Your top watering to RUN-OFF (Min of 20%), and use moderate levels every watering with your pH set.....THEN YOUR GROWING.....
It really sounds like your putting the cart ahead of the horse with this....CHECK A REPUTABLE SITE FOR ALL GROW INFO....Growweedeasy.com comes to mind...I've reviewed their site and its has SOLID information....If you think your going to get growing by surfing forums, YOUR DOOMED FOR FAILURE....Too many ppl offering advise that have no business doing so....STICK WITH KNOWN METHODS until you can comfortably grow quality buds every crop....THEN you can introduce more complex systems or ideas....With Hempy, You just make your nute mix, pH set the mix, top water and repeat when they NEED more water....THATS REALLY ALL THERE IS TO IT....
As far as lights, TARGET FOR 50watts per square foot of grow space.....LOTS OF OPTIONS like HID or MANY different LED systems...DO YOUR HOME WORK BEFORE YOU CHOOSE ONE...
START DOING SOME RESEARCH TO LEARN MORE ABOUT GROWING...Asking on forums IS NOT RESEARCH THAT WILL TEACH YOU ANYTHING BUT FRUSTRATION....Graet place to share pics and ideas, but DONT EXPECT TO LEARN HOW TO BE A GOOD GROWER FROM FORUMS.....YT
 
H

hoskie

New Member
yankeetransplant said:
What your doing at that point is NO LONGER a Hempy bucket...One you start automating, your introducing more potential problems...Hempy is a DTW (Drain To Waste), system, with the added feature of having your drain hole higher up on the side if the bucket (Usually 2in with 3-5gal buckets)....All this does is gives you convenience of going LONGER btwn waterings since there is then a Built-in 2inch deep internal reservoir....
NEVER USE TIME RELEASE NUTES IN A HEMPY OR ANY DTW SYSTEM....It defeats the purpose and the beautiful balance of HYDROPONIC nutes you feed them....
Click to expand...
Thanks YT, I appreciate the feedback and suggestions. I realize now that you're right, this isn't a hempy system and I see that Scotty didn't call it that, he called it a self-watering bucket system. I am completing my 3rd grow (in soil) in the next 2-3 weeks and have learned so much over the past 3 cycles about PH, nutrients, conditions, lighting, training, etc. But the most difficult part for me is not being able to leave the plants untended for more than a couple of days (without them nearly dying) and I don't have someone that can cover for me while I'm away so that's why I'm seeking a non-standard design that gives me the ability to get away for say a week. I completely understand that I'm adding risks by automating, and that's why I'm reading the boards and seeking advice from experienced growers like you in the hopes that I can avoid big mistakes.

What do you think of this idea? Do a traditional hempy set-up and top water with hydro nutes, except that I have the run-off go into tubes connected to each pot at the 2" level. I have enough headroom in my tent to raise the pots a couple of feet so that gravity will take the waste from tubes into a collective run-off container on the floor outside the tent (makes it easier for me to dispose). Then, if I have to go away, I can use a pump on a timer to do top-watering out of a separate feed reservoir (will do a lot of testing to figure out how long timer needs to run each time). My question about this setup would be whether it's ok to leave a weeks worth of nutes in the feed reservoir. Should I add a circulation pump in the feed reservoir to stir up the nutes say once a day?
 
H

hoskie

New Member
rkymtnman said:
i'd get more light
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Thanks, I think you're right. Been considering if I should add one more 100w LED alongside the SF1000 or get a completely new light, say Mars Hydro TSL-2000. I want to stick with LEDs as I'm in a tropical climate and even with a/c running 24/7, my temps are around 80-84 degrees in the tent.
 
rkymtnman

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
hoskie said:
Thanks, I think you're right. Been considering if I should add one more 100w LED alongside the SF1000 or get a completely new light, say Mars Hydro TSL-2000. I want to stick with LEDs as I'm in a tropical climate and even with a/c running 24/7, my temps are around 80-84 degrees in the tent.
Click to expand...
i'd go for about 300 to 400 watts total in 8 sq ft
 
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