World Of Hempy

stoneslacker

Well-Known Member
Here's a few from a couple of days back. Today is day 60 from switch (11/13 at first, now they are under 10/14)

I'm thinking of adding some coco to my buckets next time. I was thinking all perlite rez, then a gradient of perlite and coco and final layer 2 inches of straight coco for capping reasons.
My question is do I need to chase with a CalMag additive? I'm using General Hydroponics 3 part solution
I have been using an all perlite medium capped with 2-3 inches of coco with great results my last few grows.
I use cal/mag at around half recommended dose for all my hempy mediums. If using coco, I use a 1/2 str
nute solution with 5mL cal/mag to expand my coco brick.

SS! Good to see you still enjoying the ride Bro!

I always refer to your activities when the topic of low-Watt yield comes up. :0)

Those breeds are looking very tasty. I will take the SD whatever the yield. Wow.

I started Cali Connections SD recently and will be flipping my first in another month or so.

JD
Thanks JD! These 2 girls are in fact CaliCon. Very impressed with them.
 

Javadog

Well-Known Member
Awesome. My SD is from Cali Conn also.

I got a pack of SD on an impulse when I reached out to get their Green Crack again.

That was one of the strongest smokes that I have grown and regretted not keeping her.

So I got packs, which I do not normally do, and will get that thing again. :0)

JD

P.S. Since then I have gotten packs of CCs Deadhead and Chem '91 also. :0)
 

grapefruitmarmalade

Well-Known Member
I have been using an all perlite medium capped with 2-3 inches of coco with great results my last few grows.
I use cal/mag at around half recommended dose for all my hempy mediums. If using coco, I use a 1/2 str
nute solution with 5mL cal/mag to expand my coco brick.


Thanks JD! These 2 girls are in fact CaliCon. Very impressed with them.
Those were exactly my thoughts: half recommended dosage for a small coco cap. But since I need to buy coco AND the calmg it appears to me like a lot cheaper solution if I just cap with hydroton.
Also nice to see you're back... I bought my 250 watt thinking of you and your grows :D
 

gr865

Well-Known Member
Posted some info on my Exodus Cheese harvest and the clones to my Journal today.
Will harvest the White Rhino next Monday or so..
 

gr865

Well-Known Member
Well I am not sure what happened, my journal flew the coop. :wall:
I have contacted RIU in hope of recovery.
If not I will start anew and bid adieu to the old ones. :cuss:

Here are a few recent pics, I am two weeks into 12/12 with the clone SOG or sort of a SOG I guess. So until then I will just post a few pics and give info on this grow.

Twelve clones, 6 of each, White Rhino and Exodus Cheese.

I am going to HOme Depot to pick up a shelve system to level all the plants, the EC being sativa dominate is beginning to tower over the WR which is indica dominate. So I plane on installing a shelf system to be able to adjust the height of the WR.
I still have one more week to do some super cropping, and then any thing I do beyond that will only be LST.
WR
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Group pic
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WR
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Group
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Group
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WR
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EC
20160125_155413.jpg
WR
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EC
20160125_155355.jpg

GR
 
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Javadog

Well-Known Member
Those do seem to have a great amount of frost for where they
are at in the cycle. Sorry about the Journal though.

Thanks for sharing.

JD
 

gr865

Well-Known Member
Thanks JD,

My journal pulled a disappearing act on me. LOL!
It could be either to much or not enough :weed:.

So instead of redoing my journal I will just post updates here, like I used to do.
As you have seen earlier pictures from the early part of this grow I start my post again now.
Today is day 14 of 12/12

Twelve clones 6 of each.
What strain is it? White Rhino and Exodus Cheese Clones from my fall grow.
Is it Indica, Sativa or Hybrid? What percentages? White Rhino is highly Indica dominate, Exodus Cheese is sativa dominate.
Is it in Veg or Flower stage? Flower
If in Veg... For how long? Clones taken on 11/12/15, started flower on 1/10/16
If in Flower stage... For how long? 10 days as of 1/20/16
Indoor or outdoor? Indoor
Soil or Hydro? Hydro, DTW Hempys
If soil or Hydro what is in your mix? 75/25 Bontania Coco/Growstones
If soil or Hydro, What size pot? 3 lb. Folgers plastic coffee cans, exactly 1 gallon.
Size of light? 400W
Is it aircooled? Yes, Cooltube
Temp of Room/cab? High 82 Low 72 with the lights on, 68 lights off
RH of Room/cab? 45 to 60
PH of media or res? pH in 5.8, do not take reading on reservoir.
Any Pests ? Just a couple of gnats, have never seen more that two in the cabinet.
How often are you watering? Early grow 2 cups water/nutes per day, later in the grow it will be morning and evening.
Type and strength of ferts used? GH Micro @ 4ml/gal, GH Bloom @ 9ml/gal, GH Cal/Mag 1.5ml/gal and 1 gram Epsom salts. So 4/9/1.5/1, the Micro will be reduce during the grow. Will begin adding Organic Molasses at the 5th week.

GR
 

gr865

Well-Known Member
The White Rhino and Exodus Cheese SOG day 14 of 12/12.

Installed a shelf in the cabinet today, it is adjustable. Since the EC is sativa dominate I needed a way to keep the WR canopy even with the EC. It looks like it is going to work well, a lot better than what I was planning, lifting the six WR with pieces of foam insulation.
Some pics are from the last post just don't like that thumbnail format.

WR
View attachment 3593997
WR20160125_155302.jpg EC
20160125_155355.jpg
EC
20160125_155413.jpg
Will get a better pic of the shelf tomorrow.
20160125_190236.jpg

I have two of the WR's on squares of foam insulation to raise them to the canopy level of the others. They have lagged behind since veg, probably the problem I had with the clones right after I planted them in they one gallon Folger Hempy buckets. Only thing I can figure is the got damping off, strange though as all clones were treated exactly the same, I lost 12 out of the 26 I rooted and were all ready to transplant.
Two of the effected plants
20151215_151844.jpg 20151215_151928.jpg

Two healthy plants from the same batch
20151215_152051.jpg 20151215_152100.jpg

Well that's it for now, suggestions, help and any comments are more than welcome.

GR
 
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gr865

Well-Known Member
Just a quicky to show the shelf.

The black piece under the EC to the right is a short inverted tray raising the plants 1" to allow for good drainage and keep the bottom of the Hempy pots out of standing water. Although the large catch tray I built to put the pots into is sloped to the left hand corner the pots were staying wet sitting directly on the floor of the tray.
20160126_064342.jpg

20160126_063942.jpg
GR
 
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gr865

Well-Known Member
White Rhino & Exodus Cheese Day 21 of 12/12

The ladies did not seem to do a lot this week, got a little taller and beginning to fatten, the EC is lagging just like her mother did. I did my last super cropping this morning as it is day 21. Not sure where I heard this, but it was long ago that you can trim up to day 21 of 12/12 with no harm to the plant. They have responded very well to the SC and I will be using it much more in future grows. The only thing I will do now is do some minor fan leaf removal of leaves blocking bud sites.
White Rhino
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Exodus Cheese
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Group Shot
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WR
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GR
 
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gr865

Well-Known Member
Have a simple question, how much N so you use toward the end of the grow? I have been using H3ad's formula for coco at a reduced rate all the way thru the grow, 4ml Micro, 6ml Bloom, 1.5 ml Cal/Mag and 1 gram epsom. My question is should I be reducing the N at the end of my grow?
GR
 

Javadog

Well-Known Member
GR, I have to admit that I kinda eyeball it.

....but it is standard thinking that many breeds will actually
experience a small jump in their N needs toward the end.

Good luck,

JD
 

HydroGp

Well-Known Member
Ive been eyeballing it too :( I mean i know the plants need less n and more pk when in flowering but yeah reduce.
Found this some where:
It should also be noted that there is no point at which the marijuana plant should be without nitrogen at any point during its growth cycle. Of course, nitrogen is most important during the vegetative stage to encourage growth. Many people might suggest that you eliminate nitrogen entirely during the flowering stage, but that is not the case. While you should not have as much nitrogen during the flowering stage, you should still maintain enough nitrogen for the plant to manufacture vital amino acids.

Bloom fertilizers tend to have more phosphorus and potassium than they do nitrogen, but it’s common for plants to exhibit a nitrogen deficiency during the mid- to late-flowering period. This can cause plants to lose leaves and reduce yield as the nitrogen exits the old growth for new growth.

You should gradually switch over to bloom fertilizers to ensure that you don’t run into a nitrogen deficiency during flowering. Use the following fertilizer example for how to carry this out properly:

  • First Week of Flowering: 1 part bloom fertilizer and 1 part vegetative fertilizer
  • Second Week of Flowering: 2 parts bloom fertilizer and 1 part vegetative fertilizer
  • Third Week of Flowering: 3 parts bloom fertilizer and 1 part vegetative fertilizer
  • Fourth Week and Beyond: All bloom fertilizer
This essentially allows the marijuana plants to store enough nitrogen until the end of the flowering period.
 

gr865

Well-Known Member
Hi y'all,

I have been reading some articles on this matter and have also found some possible "useful" information. Also, I am a retired Agronomist, LoL think I should be able to peg this ever shot.
As with most, if not all, plants in the wild that are not supplies constant nutrients, the cannabis plant as it ages has spent it's grow area. This means it is pulling the available foods, and as it does it begins using the plant as a nute source. Drawing from the bottom leaves and moving upwards as can be seen from the yellowing and eventual death of that leaf. Just like the first leaves from a seedling they get spent and die. I see this a lot on my mother plants as I don't treat them as well as I would plants for harvest. I back way off the nutes and water just enough to keep them alive.
That being said, in our situation where we are controlling all growing conditions then we remove nature from the equation. But shouldn't we try to emulate nature in certain ways, like backing off the N at the finish of the grow to a point that the plant does begin using it's reserves to feed the finishing growth? WE do see this in some pictures from growers and probably better growers and I am for sure. Then we see the pics of the plant staying bright and green during the entire grow, like mine, and I have come to believe that this may not be a good thing.
I just started my fourth week of flower and have begun backing the N down some. Y'all know I am in Hempys so I feed ever day, so I will gradually bring it down.

Have also been reading about defoliation, but that is a whole nother long post and much discussion. :wall:

GR
 

SamsonsRiddle

Well-Known Member
I'm sorry if this has been covered before, but have a question about a hempy problem. It has to do with what i believe is green algae.

I have a girl 3 weeks into flower in a mapito (poly foam/rockwool) hempy with hydroton in the reservoir. She has been thriving and didn't exhibit any deficiencies or problems until about 3 days ago. All of a sudden, her bottom leaf yellowed and shriveled and it is now moving up. She isn't overfed and isn't underfed, but is being fed Dyna Gro Foliage Pro and Protekt at a 4:1 ratio along with Floralicious Plus at the right amount for her. PH going in and out between 5.8 - 6.2

Anyways, she has been in this pot since about 2 weeks before flower. After a week i started to notice a small amount of green sludge at the top. Now it is completely covering the top of the media.

From previous hydro experience, i know a hydrogen peroxide solution can clean algae off roots and am planning on doing this immediately since this is getting out of control. So can algae really cause the yellowing and shriveling of leaves? Does mapito need to be switched to bloom nutrients instead of a steady 3-1-2 all through her life like other container plants?
 

gr865

Well-Known Member
I'm sorry if this has been covered before, but have a question about a hempy problem. It has to do with what i believe is green algae.

I have a girl 3 weeks into flower in a mapito (poly foam/rockwool) hempy with hydroton in the reservoir. She has been thriving and didn't exhibit any deficiencies or problems until about 3 days ago. All of a sudden, her bottom leaf yellowed and shriveled and it is now moving up. She isn't overfed and isn't underfed, but is being fed Dyna Gro Foliage Pro and Protekt at a 4:1 ratio along with Floralicious Plus at the right amount for her. PH going in and out between 5.8 - 6.2

Anyways, she has been in this pot since about 2 weeks before flower. After a week i started to notice a small amount of green sludge at the top. Now it is completely covering the top of the media.

From previous hydro experience, i know a hydrogen peroxide solution can clean algae off roots and am planning on doing this immediately since this is getting out of control. So can algae really cause the yellowing and shriveling of leaves? Does mapito need to be switched to bloom nutrients instead of a steady 3-1-2 all through her life like other container plants?
Not sure it a algae bloom on the surface is a problem, it is just from the light hitting the surface and the amt of nutes there.
Try covering the surface and that should solve that,
Now if I understand you right your losing bottom growth, that is natural to lose the early set of leaves. I am not familuar with the product your using, What is you EC or ppm? How much runoff are you allowing? How often you watering?

GR
 

SamsonsRiddle

Well-Known Member
Not sure it a algae bloom on the surface is a problem, it is just from the light hitting the surface and the amt of nutes there.
Try covering the surface and that should solve that,
Now if I understand you right your losing bottom growth, that is natural to lose the early set of leaves. I am not familuar with the product your using, What is you EC or ppm? How much runoff are you allowing? How often you watering?

GR
Foliage Pro: 9-3-6 is the npk with all the essential micro and macro nutrients and
ProTekt: 0-0-3 silicon supplement
Floralicious Plus: 2-.8-.02
PPM after everything right now is @ 250 (.5 scale)
Have another next to it in a promix 2 gallon fabric pot with same feeding (except she needs watered every day) that is thriving.
I water every 2-3 days when the reservoir is NEAR dry until 20% runoff.
 

gr865

Well-Known Member
Foliage Pro: 9-3-6 is the npk with all the essential micro and macro nutrients and
ProTekt: 0-0-3 silicon supplement
Floralicious Plus: 2-.8-.02
PPM after everything right now is @ 250 (.5 scale)
Have another next to it in a promix 2 gallon fabric pot with same feeding (except she needs watered every day) that is thriving.
I water every 2-3 days when the reservoir is NEAR dry until 20% runoff.
Hempy's should be watered daily to a 30% runoff. You should at least go back and read the beginning of this tread, it will give you valuable info.
That is my suggestion, they will pick back up. You are treating them like dirt grow, it is a hydroponic grow and should be watered every day, and possibly twice when you get into flower.
GR
 
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