World Of Hempy

Zackk

Zackk

Member
I've learned the most from reading your journal YT as well as Koolkats.
Starting growing exactly a year ago starting with just a small plant in my bathroom in soil.
Now i've SCROGGED, SOG, and learned all about living soil (though not my thing.
Thanks for all the knowledge and tips!
 

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Sickomindo

Well-Known Member
Current Hempy Run. 2 Gals this time (never that small again although no problems yet). 14 days since flip. Also adding pics of my last grows root system 3gal concidering its a bottom fed Airstone Hydroton Hempy, its quite interesting.
 

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yankeetransplant

yankeetransplant

Well-Known Member
Oh yeah, those are crazy healthy!!!!....once u catch onto the concept, it actually pretty simple stuff....Seems like you NAILED IT!!!.....Hempy Buckets rule..even better with minor modifications.....Theres a HUGE industry that doesnt like hearing that..LOL...Oh well, cant argue with results like that...YT
 
yankeetransplant

yankeetransplant

Well-Known Member
i didnt look back into the thread to see what strain that is???...Sure produces some great looking tops!!!!
I switched to 3 gal buckets...look exactly the same as the 5gal paint buckets, just smaller....I run 6 plants in a 4ft by 5ft closet and I'm sure I can do the same with 3 gal buckets....if I was organic, I wouldn't consider going smaller but it's ok with a properly run Hempy bucket.....it WILL require more frequent waterings, but it only takes me 10 min to water....I am running ALL NEW STRAINS from seed this time...got tired of some of mine producers...some are a cpl yrs old now....now running Green Crack, Blueberry, and a new limited release from Barney's Farm called Peyote Critical...its a cross of their Critical Kush and Peyote Purple....CK is a cup winner and the Peyote Purple has the sweetness, insane resins and good colors....Suppose to be a great indica cross...not much reading about it since it so new...I trust the work they do at Barney's, so I cant wait to get them in flower.....here is pic of one of the Peyote Criticals.....9 days into veg since I transplant them into the buckets...they grew in solo cups for 3 weeks after cracking them....So, far so good...the specs on them are great and they stay relatively short due to thick stalks...Will certainly post some pics as they progress, along with the Green Crack and Blueberry...I HATE starting from seed but gotta do it to find the good ones....YT20180216_214438-1.jpg
 
yankeetransplant

yankeetransplant

Well-Known Member
I'm sure SOMEONE will be scratching their head about that 2inch PVC tube....it goes right to the bottom, where its 45° cut....I top water thru the medium (4:1 perlite/vermiculite) until I'm sure the roots are bottomed out NICELY...then I water ONLY down the tube....fresh mix straight to the rez where they are now drinking and feeding from...At that time, I rinse the medium once with a super light nute and a Beneficial....Then there is ZERO flushing the rest of the crop...I will dampen the medium occasionally with a super light mix with more Bennies just to keep it damp enuf where the bennies dont go dormant.....But it works amazing and I'm ALL ABOUT not having to flush my medium every 2 or 3 feeding....over feed flush, over feed flush, IS NOT a good way to grow anyways....It works, BUT not as well as moderate feedings every watering...much more stable for the plants....I and a LOW nute feeder anyways....I run JUST ENUF to keep them a healthy green....heavy feeding is probably one of the biggest mistakes newer growers make.....I cut nutes in half 2 weeks out and withhold them the last week and they yellow out perfect...There is NOTHING to be flushed out that way....
 
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Sickomindo

Well-Known Member
yankeetransplant said:
I'm sure SOMEONE will be scratching their head about that 2inch PVC tube....it goes right to the bottom, where its 45° cut....I top water thru the medium (4:1 perlite/vermiculite) until I'm sure the roots are bottomed out NICELY...then I water ONLY down the tube....fresh mix straight to the rez where they are now drinking and feeding from...At that time, I rinse the medium once with a super light nute and a Beneficial....Then there is ZERO flushing the rest of the crop...I will dampen the medium occasionally with a super light mix with more Bennies just to keep it damp enuf where the bennies dont go dormant.....But it works amazing and I'm ALL ABOUT not having to flush my medium every 2 or 3 feeding....over feed flush, over feed flush, IS NOT a good way to grow anyways....It works, BUT not as well as moderate feedings every watering...much more stable for the plants....I and a LOW nute feeder anyways....I run JUST ENUF to keep them a healthy green....heavy feeding is probably one of the biggest mistakes newer growers make.....I cut nutes in half 2 weeks out and withhold them the last week and they yellow out perfect...There is NOTHING to be flushed out that way....
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Awesome. There is so much I can ask you me and you are growing very similar if not exactly the same what ppm's are you at? I'm around 500 second or third week in flower
 

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yankeetransplant

yankeetransplant

Well-Known Member
I prewet cups at 300ppm (flower formula), for cracked seeds....they stay there till I got the 4th node when I top it....the topping kind of slows things down a little while the secondary branching develops more growth hormones...soon as those secondaries get moving I increase to 500ppms (grow formula)....I rarely need to go higher than 600ppms for heavy vegging, and some light feeders stay fine at 500ppms.....Soon as I flip to 12/12, I jump to 700ppms to support that stretch...They stay on Grow formula thru stretch...it supports that rapid growth better....2 weeks into flower, when stretch is mostly over, and popcorn buds are forming, I switch to a full strength flower nute...Thats about 800ppms for me....after 5 full weeks at 12/12, I drop to 600ppm for a week, then cut that about in half for the 7th week (300ppms), and withhold for last week...thats with an 8 week photo plant.....when they ARE on 800ppms of flower, there is ZERO chance of EC buildup in the medium since I water down the tube....not a big of concern with flower nutes anyways, since its excess NITROGEN that is the worse culprit when abused...many mixing charts suggest high numbers too....numbers like 1200-1400ppms (and even higher), when flowering....they know those are not lethal amts, but also not necessary and usually require flushing, and will have you buying more faster....More moderate #'s and feed every watering.....I run a 1000w HID too....someone with say a 400w would be using lower #'s....Numbers are VERY specific to the crop in question, and ultimately, you tweek those #'s based on what the plants tell you...I been using the Dyna line of products since their inception....IMO, is the BEST SINGLE use formulas on the market....no part A and B with Base formulas, just a grow formula and a bloom formula....there are SO MANY gimmick addatives on the market to get into your wallet.....They make u feel like your plants just wont do well without them.....B.S. money maker products....Any truely experienced grower agrees with that!!!
I do add Hydroguard.... Beneficials are not a gimmick....
They colonizes just fine in soilless mixes too, and keeps root systems healthier and more efficient.... YT
 
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Sickomindo

Well-Known Member
yankeetransplant said:
I prewet cups at 300ppm (flower formula), for cracked seeds....they stay there till I got the 4th node when I top it....the topping kind of slows things down a little while the secondary branching develops more growth hormones...soon as those secondaries get moving I increase to 500ppms (grow formula)....I rarely need to go higher than 600ppms for heavy vegging, and some light feeders stay fine at 500ppms.....Soon as I flip to 12/12, I jump to 700ppms to support that stretch...They stay on Grow formula thru stretch...it supports that rapid growth better....2 weeks into flower, when stretch is mostly over, and popcorn buds are forming, I switch to a full strength flower nute...Thats about 800ppms for me....after 5 full weeks at 12/12, I drop to 600ppm for a week, then cut that about in half for the 7th week (300ppms), and withhold for last week...thats with an 8 week photo plant.....when they ARE on 800ppms of flower, there is ZERO chance of EC buildup in the medium since I water down the tube....not a big of concern with flower nutes anyways, since its excess NITROGEN that is the worse culprit when abused...many mixing charts suggest high numbers too....numbers like 1200-1400ppms (and even higher), when flowering....they know those are not lethal amts, but also not necessary and usually require flushing, and will have you buying more faster....More moderate #'s and feed every watering.....I run a 1000w HID too....someone with say a 400w would be using lower #'s....Numbers are VERY specific to the crop in question, and ultimately, you tweek those #'s based on what the plants tell you...I been using the Dyna line of products since their inception....IMO, is the BEST SINGLE use formulas on the market....no part A and B with Base formulas, just a grow formula and a bloom formula....there are SO MANY gimmick addatives on the market to get into your wallet.....They make u feel like your plants just wont do well without them.....B.S. money maker products....Any truely experienced grower agrees with that!!!
I do add Hydroguard.... Beneficials are not a gimmick....
They colonizes just fine in soilless mixes too, and keeps root systems healthier and more efficient.... YT
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You said a mouthful. I run a canna ANB I'm a big fan of the Dude Grows Show and I spent 16 hours a day learning how to grow but I'm so late to the grow party the chances of me being able to get my foot in the door somewhere is probably slim but I won't give up The problem is I have ankylosing spondylitis I had a paid off five bedroom house with a pool and Jacuzzi but I let it go for love You see it was in my moms name and after my stepdad died with lung cancer I could've had her put the house into my name but instead when I moved out to southern Illinois from Los Angeles I went back and got her and let her sell the house big mistake My mom pretty much blew everything and I'm now living in a fucking trailer trying to figure out how I'm going to go back to the West Coast because the girl I left all that for turned out to have a family that were Gypsies Her dad can't read and write and unfortunately the dysfunction turned out to be too great.
 
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Sickomindo

Well-Known Member
yankeetransplant said:
I prewet cups at 300ppm (flower formula), for cracked seeds....they stay there till I got the 4th node when I top it....the topping kind of slows things down a little while the secondary branching develops more growth hormones...soon as those secondaries get moving I increase to 500ppms (grow formula)....I rarely need to go higher than 600ppms for heavy vegging, and some light feeders stay fine at 500ppms.....Soon as I flip to 12/12, I jump to 700ppms to support that stretch...They stay on Grow formula thru stretch...it supports that rapid growth better....2 weeks into flower, when stretch is mostly over, and popcorn buds are forming, I switch to a full strength flower nute...Thats about 800ppms for me....after 5 full weeks at 12/12, I drop to 600ppm for a week, then cut that about in half for the 7th week (300ppms), and withhold for last week...thats with an 8 week photo plant.....when they ARE on 800ppms of flower, there is ZERO chance of EC buildup in the medium since I water down the tube....not a big of concern with flower nutes anyways, since its excess NITROGEN that is the worse culprit when abused...many mixing charts suggest high numbers too....numbers like 1200-1400ppms (and even higher), when flowering....they know those are not lethal amts, but also not necessary and usually require flushing, and will have you buying more faster....More moderate #'s and feed every watering.....I run a 1000w HID too....someone with say a 400w would be using lower #'s....Numbers are VERY specific to the crop in question, and ultimately, you tweek those #'s based on what the plants tell you...I been using the Dyna line of products since their inception....IMO, is the BEST SINGLE use formulas on the market....no part A and B with Base formulas, just a grow formula and a bloom formula....there are SO MANY gimmick addatives on the market to get into your wallet.....They make u feel like your plants just wont do well without them.....B.S. money maker products....Any truely experienced grower agrees with that!!!
I do add Hydroguard.... Beneficials are not a gimmick....
They colonizes just fine in soilless mixes too, and keeps root systems healthier and more efficient.... YT
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Hey Yankee what PH you like to run at? I been around 6.2 and lately it might be a issue. Also how do you Final Flush with regards to Hempy? I always flush bottom down like I feed and I think it took a friends honest opinion about the sample i sent him i was kind of insulted at first lol and even though i knew some tasted shitty he said it smelled and tasted like soap and thought it was my flush. Hes in/is a Cali Connoisseur as where im from but im growing in Illinois) and it made me rethink my flush. Top down on final flush from now on but also what if any product do you use with a flush?
 
yankeetransplant

yankeetransplant

Well-Known Member
I dont panic over pH as much as most ppl....a drift is the best...IDEALLY, I like to start at 5.7 cause I usually get a little up drift...It seems 6.0 is a sweet spot for mine...So I set a little lower and let it drift up to a little over 6.0, and reset again next watering....ANYONE trying to pin down a pH # to ZERO drift, will drive themselves crazy, and its not necessary...If your btwn 5.5 and 6.3 with a Hempy Bucket, your plants will be fine...understand the drift and use it as an advantage...Better nute absorbtion that way.....Of course, if your heavy feeding, you get a DROP in pH and light feeders see more of a pH rise....Kind of a nice additional gauge for proper ppm levels...tends to stay put when tuned...problem is the plants grow fast and your never tuned that close for that long, so a little drift just needs to be embraced instead of chasing it all over....FLUSHING,,,I run thru flower without CHOKING my plants too bad with nutes....2 weeks out from harvest I cut nutes in half...they start yellowing in a few days..and no nutes last week (10 days if the need more ripening)....
REMEMBER, my medium is CLEAN from nutes..I am watering down my 2 inch pvc tubes...When I cut down on nutes (and then stop them), those internal reservoirs rinse out immediately with runoff....I HATE FLUSHING, and watering that way eliminates it....buds smoke clean as they should!!!!....IF I DIDNT, have the PVC watering tubes, I would use the same nute reduction schedule, while top watering.....You pretty much know by the looks of your plants a cpl weeks from harvest, if you been heavy feeding.....problem is just flushing the medium wont cut it, IF THE PLANTS cant process what they stored up....if your flushing 2 weeks prior to harvest, AND STILL have Green plants at harvest time, your feeding too heavy thru flower...One way or another, they GOT TO CLEAN OUT....Nothing worse than smoking a bud still loaded with chemicals....SNAP, CRACKLE, POP, CHOKE, PUKE...LOL
 
Roger A. Shrubber

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
buds that snap, crackle, and pop, weren't cured properly. has nothing to do with how much nutes you used, or didn't use.
never has, and never will.
i water top down in 10 gallon hempy totes, don't flush, and NEVER have harsh, popping, crackling crap bud. ever. get 20% runoff each time you water, and you wouldn't, either.
the single thing you've said so far that i agree with is that its a good idea to let your ph swing. i use 70% perlite and 30% pro-mix. i ph to 6.3 because of the pro-mix, and let it drop to 6.0 occasionally, and rise to 6.5, but always go back to 6.3.
i'd do the same thing if i was using coco instead, but i would center at 6.1 instead of 6.3, with drops to 5.8 and rises to 6.3.
i'm honestly not sure of the ph range for pure perlite, but i'd guess it would be about the same as with coco, so in the 6.1 range
 
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Sickomindo

Well-Known Member
Thx for the advice guys. I totally know,understand & 100% agree about everything you guys said about the swing. My problem was I think I was leaving my starting ph at 6.2 then swings up so I plan on shooting for 6.0 tops then let them swing up if the choose.
As far as my other issue, i dont think my Bud is crackling or popping when smoked just smell and taste worse then they look or should. I still think if im flushing bottom down like when i feed, the roots are still in nutrients above the res. I will try final flush top down on my current run and i bought flawless finish and B. Candy from AN. I think even tho i put alot of thought into the cure, it could only be one or both of these as to why this has been happening.
 

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Roger A. Shrubber

Roger A. Shrubber

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i was having problems with it smelling like a brown bag after it was dry. i did some research, turns out it was drying too fast. i set up a small tent with a cool mist humidifier hooked to a humidistat, keeps it at 65% humidity. i put a small phresh filter in, hooked to a small fan on a timer, runs for 15 minutes every two hours, just to keep the air fresh. it now takes a minimum of 5 days to get dry enough to cure, and it smells and tastes so much better than 3 or even 4 days drying
 
yankeetransplant

yankeetransplant

Well-Known Member
Yes drying too quickly will give you that paper bag effect or moreso a hay like taste...If it dries in 3 or 4 days, its bound to happen....A VERY LONG jar cure can fix some of it depending how bad it was to begin with....I found a 6-7 day dry is plenty to get them into a jar to finish a fairly quick curing process, just as you have seen.
AND YES, RESIDUAL NUTES not cleaned out will create a crackling and popping....a quick dry will only 'F' up the taste and harshness if the buds were cleaned out propey to begin with, but is not going to be the cause of crackling and dark ash BS....There is NOTHING in them to cause that IF THEY WERE CLEANED OUT.....
Just my 2 cents based on growing for 39 yrs now....
 
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Sickomindo

Well-Known Member
yankeetransplant said:
Yes drying too quickly will give you that paper bag effect or moreso a hay like taste...If it dries in 3 or 4 days, its bound to happen....A VERY LONG jar cure can fix some of it depending how bad it was to begin with....I found a 6-7 day dry is plenty to get them into a jar to finish a fairly quick curing process, just as you have seen.
AND YES, RESIDUAL NUTES not cleaned out will create a crackling and popping....a quick dry will only 'F' up the taste and harshness if the buds were cleaned out propey to begin with, but is not going to be the cause of crackling and dark ash BS....There is NOTHING in them to cause that IF THEY WERE CLEANED OUT.....
Just my 2 cents based on growing for 39 yrs now....
Click to expand...
I bought a humidifier too and thought I did a spot on cure. Nothing was off. Weird. Might of missed something
 
yankeetransplant

yankeetransplant

Well-Known Member
Heh sick-o....Only your one buddy commented on the taste of your buds...may be he is just ober critical....nobody here is saying your buds are crackling...its nust something that WOULD occur is the buds were not flushed poperly...If they are fine to you and your friend, MAYBE someone else IS just being ober critical....You DO NEED the minimal of 6 days of drying before cure though....Good strong flushing the last cpl weeks should work even WITHOUT cleansing products...You want to see some MAJOR yellowing going on by harvest day...Idealy this should even start to effect the smaller sugar leaves sticking out of the buds....If the plants are still looking PHOTO WORTHY, (green and pretty), the cleanout had not worked....that extent of yellowing is a SURE SIGN, there are no more nutrients available for the plant to use and it basically cannibalizes itselt as a survival mechanism....This dude ROGER is stearing you wrong about stored nutes...Im sure your buds are not bad enuf to snap and crackle but ANYONE WITH EVEN MODERATE grow experience, KNOWS that is causes by stored nutes, should you ever experience it while smoking someones weed....
this link AND DOZENS MORE LIKE IT, explains how stored nutes cause crackling and popping in weed....
That one of the problems with using forums for info, your never sure who knows what they are talking about...A growers 3 worse enemies are spider mites, white flies and grow forums...LOL....I grew my 1st crop in 1979 and have SEEN IT ALL since then....Someone might pull off a cpl decent crops (in their own opinion) and all of of a sudden they are throwing around bogus advise thinking they are a grow master.....I continue to learn because science and technology keeps advancing...BE CAREFUL who is offering advise online and feel free to ask me...If I DONT KNOW, I would NEVER pretend I do and let you know....I certainly would never dish out any BS...YT
 
Roger A. Shrubber

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
for every link you can provide, i can provide one stating exactly the opposite. ask the experienced growers on this site, and you'll get as many different answers as people you ask....so who is pretending?......
i'm 52, i grew my first crop outdoors in the summer of 80, and haven't stopped since, just moved inside a few years ago...
i was trying to be nice, now i'm saying you're an asshole
watering a hempy bucket down a tube is a complete and total waste of time, if you feel like wasting time, go ahead....because this asshat expert knows better than the other 99.9% of the people using the same system......maybe someone does have to be the first to make an innovation...but it ain't you
 
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