Would This Setup Work?

SmerkedOut

SmerkedOut

Well-Known Member
I'm thinking about running a 1000w hps in a 4x4 tent with a scrog. The thing is I want to run a passive hood (not air cooled) due to budget. I was going to leave the hood at the top of the tent (probably at least 2-3 ft away from canopy), but I don't know if it will still be too hot? I would be using a carbon filter as my exhaust running around 400cfm. Would that be too hot? Do I need to get a smaller bulb/air cooled hood?
 
_MrBelvedere_

_MrBelvedere_

Well-Known Member
What is the average temperature of the room it is in? As long as the room your tent is in gets cold fresh air from a window air conditioner, your setup and design may work. Does that room have a window AC or a central AC system with ducting. Tell me your average weather patterns, etc... Recommend getting the tube cooled though unless your tent is taller!! Thank you
 
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malicifice

malicifice

Well-Known Member
I'm running the same but with a tube. My fans like 440 or something. It fluctuates about 6-10 degrees from the room the tent is in.
 
_MrBelvedere_

_MrBelvedere_

Well-Known Member
with a 4x4 tent I would definitely recommend getting an air cooled hood, it is only a few dollars more and you won't have to worry as much... a 1000 watt hood would get too hot in a "short tent".
 
SmerkedOut

SmerkedOut

Well-Known Member
_MrBelvedere_ said:
What is the average temperature of the room it is in? As long as the room your tent is in gets cold fresh air from a window air conditioner, your setup and design may work. Does that room have a window AC or a central AC system with ducting. Tell me your average weather patterns, etc... Recommend getting the tube cooled though unless your tent is taller!! Thank you
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I'm running a portable AC and I can duct the cold side straight into the tent if needed. The room is set to 70 but the air coming out of the AC is way colder than that, but I've never measured it. What air cooled hood would you recommend? Because the wing reflector I was looking at was like $40.
 
SmerkedOut

SmerkedOut

Well-Known Member
_MrBelvedere_ said:
with a 4x4 tent I would definitely recommend getting an air cooled hood, it is only a few dollars more and you won't have to worry as much... a 1000 watt hood would get too hot in a "short tent".
Click to expand...
What 6 inch air cooled reflector would you recommend for $100 or less? I'm looking at the Yield Master II, any others?
 
SmerkedOut

SmerkedOut

Well-Known Member
justugh said:
http://www.amazon.com/iPower-GLCLTB6XL-6-Inch-Reflector-26-Inch/dp/B00BDGHIBE

is my fav simple hood design ....the reflection is nice the size of it ensures u get a great 4x4 coverage ...plus the size allows u to set the ropes ontop of it ......i use to use it to purge BHO some more

it always worked good for me
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Alright, so that's a nice square hood for a square tent, and it's the same size as a Blockbuster. Definitely could work, but you can't change the bulb without taking off the duct can you?
 
justugh

justugh

Well-Known Member
SmerkedOut said:
Alright, so that's a nice square hood for a square tent, and it's the same size as a Blockbuster. Definitely could work, but you can't change the bulb without taking off the duct can you?
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yes but u are talking about only exposing the smell to the outside for about 10 mins maximum 2 mins if u plan it

when u want to change the bulb if it has been on u need to give about 5 mins after that all the heat will be gone .......the clamp is loosened enough so it slides on and off .......take the bulb out change it put ducting back on tighten the clamp your done

one side has wires and a mounting steel for the socket .....that side is the one hooked to the fan
the other side is open u can put arm in and do work .........that side is what i hooked to carbon filter

well the way light works and this hood is .....it is made to spread out for a 5x5 1000w .......with u being in a 4x4 and a 1000w ..........i got a little envy i know what the lumen ratings will be i was getting the most amount with same set up ......if u can do a DWC u are going to pull at least a lb with a scrog maybe 2 or 3 ............get the GH flora box and fallow the RDWC plan in a single bucket will make u a monster (change the water once a week keep adding as need over the week and on the 3rd day u add 1 gallon worth of feed to the water u use to balance the lvls) just check the ph and keep on top of it and the plant will be a monster
 
SmerkedOut

SmerkedOut

Well-Known Member
justugh said:
yes but u are talking about only exposing the smell to the outside for about 10 mins maximum 2 mins if u plan it

when u want to change the bulb if it has been on u need to give about 5 mins after that all the heat will be gone .......the clamp is loosened enough so it slides on and off .......take the bulb out change it put ducting back on tighten the clamp your done

one side has wires and a mounting steel for the socket .....that side is the one hooked to the fan
the other side is open u can put arm in and do work .........that side is what i hooked to carbon filter

well the way light works and this hood is .....it is made to spread out for a 5x5 1000w .......with u being in a 4x4 and a 1000w ..........i got a little envy i know what the lumen ratings will be i was getting the most amount with same set up ......if u can do a DWC u are going to pull at least a lb with a scrog maybe 2 or 3 ............get the GH flora box and fallow the RDWC plan in a single bucket will make u a monster (change the water once a week keep adding as need over the week and on the 3rd day u add 1 gallon worth of feed to the water u use to balance the lvls) just check the ph and keep on top of it and the plant will be a monster
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The smell isn't the problem. I just don't know how to lean over my plants to get the duct off and change the bulb. Plus I'd have to take the duct tape off and all that nonsense. And yes I plan to run an RDWC with 4 plants due to time constraints for the veg cycle. Hoping for some beasts!
 
justugh

justugh

Well-Known Member
SmerkedOut said:
The smell isn't the problem. I just don't know how to lean over my plants to get the duct off and change the bulb. Plus I'd have to take the duct tape off and all that nonsense. And yes I plan to run an RDWC with 4 plants due to time constraints for the veg cycle. Hoping for some beasts!
Click to expand...

wire hanger bent to make a gaft hook or a piece of rope to let u pull closer
 
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SmerkedOut

SmerkedOut

Well-Known Member
justugh said:
wire hanger bent to make a gaft hook
Click to expand...
Seems simple enough. One more question. I'm gonna have 3 fans for 2 carbon filters and 2 reflectors. The way I've got my current tent set up is with 1 fan for reflector and 1 fan for filter. Should I use 1 fan in the other tent and run the light in series with the filter or should I run the lights both in series and give each filter its own fan?
 
justugh

justugh

Well-Known Member
SmerkedOut said:
Seems simple enough. One more question. I'm gonna have 3 fans for 2 carbon filters and 2 reflectors. The way I've got my current tent set up is with 1 fan for reflector and 1 fan for filter. Should I use 1 fan in the other tent and run the light in series with the filter or should I run the lights both in series and give each filter its own fan?
Click to expand...

your running a 2 tent set up ....u should have 4 fans 1 exhaust and 1 powered intake per tent

the powered intake u make a filter box (this cleans the air of mold smoke and other crap that can clog the pores on the leaves or cause u issue )
https://www.rollitup.org/Journal/justugh.597604/

if one of the tent is a veggie only tent then no need for a carbon scrubber as it makes no real smell
but u should do the simple carbon scrubber at the front then cool tube then fan then ejection point per tent

4x4x6 is 120 cf ........so those 6 inch booster fans are 2 times in a min recycling the air ...........if u are doing flowering with a HPS bulb u might want to stick to a 400cfm 6 inch inline as the HPS has 70% more IR heat then a MH bulb that is about 40% ir heat
 
SmerkedOut

SmerkedOut

Well-Known Member
justugh said:
your running a 2 tent set up ....u should have 4 fans 1 exhaust and 1 powered intake per tent

the powered intake u make a filter box (this cleans the air of mold smoke and other crap that can clog the pores on the leaves or cause u issue )
https://www.rollitup.org/Journal/justugh.597604/

if one of the tent is a veggie only tent then no need for a carbon scrubber as it makes no real smell
but u should do the simple carbon scrubber at the front then cool tube then fan then ejection point per tent

4x4x6 is 120 cf ........so those 6 inch booster fans are 2 times in a min recycling the air ...........if u are doing flowering with a HPS bulb u might want to stick to a 400cfm 6 inch inline as the HPS has 70% more IR heat then a MH bulb that is about 40% ir heat
Click to expand...
So I'm not sure I understand. You're saying I don't need high CFM for extraction, but I do need high CFM for my lights. So that would mean 2 separate loops. And I don't want to run an intake fan for the risk of it being set higher than the exhaust fan and causing smell to be forced out.
 
justugh

justugh

Well-Known Member
SmerkedOut said:
So I'm not sure I understand. You're saying I don't need high CFM for extraction, but I do need high CFM for my lights. So that would mean 2 separate loops. And I don't want to run an intake fan for the risk of it being set higher than the exhaust fan and causing smell to be forced out.
Click to expand...
your main control in the tent is the air coming in .........with a HPS on u should run a higher CFM to counter the IR heat it makes (u need to keep those leaves from getting heat stress) it is cheaper then running a AC unit as long as the temps are in the low 70s your plants will be fine

as for making positive pressure u can always stay with a 400 cfm fan and use the little booster 240 cfm for the intake (the filter box lowers it to about 220/230)..........and to keep your tents from con caving to much use a speed controller on the larger 400cfm fans u can set it little higher then the intake or full on

this is what i did with my tents
currently the veggie tent is 2 240 cfm boosters and the flower tent is the 400cfm and 240cfm booster ..........i kept the same from when i was doing HID
 
SmerkedOut

SmerkedOut

Well-Known Member
justugh said:
your main control in the tent is the air coming in .........with a HPS on u should run a higher CFM to counter the IR heat it makes (u need to keep those leaves from getting heat stress) it is cheaper then running a AC unit as long as the temps are in the low 70s your plants will be fine

as for making positive pressure u can always stay with a 400 cfm fan and use the little booster 240 cfm for the intake (the filter box lowers it to about 220/230)..........and to keep your tents from con caving to much use a speed controller on the larger 400cfm fans u can set it little higher then the intake or full on

this is what i did with my tents
currently the veggie tent is 2 240 cfm boosters and the flower tent is the 400cfm and 240cfm booster ..........i kept the same from when i was doing HID
Click to expand...
And what kind of ducting do you use? Because I've found that regular aluminum duct gets tons of holes in it and leaks, and insulated duct can be a pain in the ass to try to maneuver.
 
justugh

justugh

Well-Known Member
SmerkedOut said:
And what kind of ducting do you use? Because I've found that regular aluminum duct gets tons of holes in it and leaks, and insulated duct can be a pain in the ass to try to maneuver.
Click to expand...
well this depends

the area the tents are in ........the ducting will transfer heat and this will increase the temps of your tents intake air

Always Flexie ducting the semi ridged stuff is a bitch to work with
http://www.amazon.com/Dundas-Jafine-AF625ULPZW-Aluminum-6-Inches/dp/B001AHASV8/

my flowering tent since it was HPS i used insulted ducting (the trick is to get long strips of tape tape it down to the wall then use a staple gun to put a few at the top point and few at the lower point so the tape holds ....like tape brackets redneck style)
http://www.amazon.com/Dundas-Jafine-BPC625R6-Insulated-Flexible/dp/B0049H997K
 
SmerkedOut

SmerkedOut

Well-Known Member
I'm trying to decide if I should use 4 x 5 gallon buckets or 2 x 27 gallon Commander totes to make my RDWC. I'll be running 4 plants either way. The totes make the tubing way easier but also waste more water when I have to change the res.
 
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