Here is something that might help you out I don't remember what forum it was on
so I just pasted what I copied.
Hey folks, so here is info on diagnosing your ill plant and my guide on plant body language too! hope it helps!
Nutrient Disorder Problem Solver
To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it.
Diagnose carefully before making major changes.
1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. B) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.
2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen(N) deficiency. B) If not, go to #3.
3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. B) If not, go to #4.
4) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency. B) If not, keep reading.
5) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorus(P) deficiency. B) If not, go to #6.
6) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. B) If not, go to #7.
7) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N). B) If not, go to #8.
The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >> Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely). B) If not, go to #9.
9) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning. B) If not, go to #10...
10) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency. B) If not, go to #11.
11) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. B) If not, #12.
12) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency. B) If not, #13
13) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency. B) If not. You may just have a weak plant.
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The Nutrients:
Nitrogen -
Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.
Nitrogen is a key Element in the production of Amino Acids, which are the building block of Proteins. Many plant hormones contain Nitrogen as well as Chlorophyll, DNA and RNA (Genetic materials), and a myriad of enzymes that help control and regulate growth. Nitrogen is the most mobile element.
Plants suffering from this deficiency are distinct in their pattern of yellowing. Yellowing starts on the older leaves and progresses upward, leaving the top parts of the plant green.
Notice that the large fan leaves are yellowing and turning purple-ish. from the bottom up.
Feeding with a high N fert will clear it up, like an emulsion of fish at 5-1-1.
[Editor?s note: Leaves will turn pale green, then yellow evenly. There are no intervenial striping or yellow patches. Color is uniform over the entire leaf. Yellowing is expected during flushing, as the plant is using up all available internal nutrients]
Nitrogen (N)
Nitrate - Ammonium is found in both inorganic and organic forms in the plant, and combines with carbon, hydrogen, oxygen and sometimes sulfur to form amino acids, amino enzymes, nucleic acids, chlorophyll, alkaloids, and purine bases. Nitrogen rates high as molecular weight proteins in plant tissue.
Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients.
Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.
Nitrogen Deficiencies:
Plants will exhibit lack of vigor, slow growth and will be weak and stunted. Quality and yield will be significantly reduced. Older leaves become yellow (chlorotic) from lack of chlorophyll. Deficient plants will exhibit uniform light green to yellow on older leaves, these leaves may die and drop. Leaf margins will not curled up noticeably. Chlorosis will eventually spread throughout the plant. Stems, petioles and lower leaf surfaces may turn purple.
Figure 9
As seen in figure 10 consumption of nitrogen (N) from the fan leaves during the final phase of flowing is 100% normal.
Figure 10
Nitrogen Toxicity:
Leaves are often dark green and in the early stages abundant with foliage. If excess is severe, leaves will dry and begin to fall off. Root system will remain under developed or deteriorate after time. Fruit and flower set will be inhibited or deformed.
With breakdown of vascular tissue restricting water uptake. Stress resistance is drastically diminished.
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Magnesium -
Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
Magnesium (Mg)
Magnesium is a component of the chlorophyll molecule and serves as a cofactor in most enzymes.
Magnesium (Mg) deficiency:
Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green though as can be seen in figure 15.
Notice how in figure 16 and 17 the leaves curl upwards like they're praying? They're praying for Mg! The tips may also twist. This can be quickly resolved by watering with 1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.
If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout or invest into a reverse osmosis water filter.
Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
Figure 15
Figure 16
Figure 17
Magnesium (Mg) Toxicity:
Magnesium toxicity is rare and not generally exhibited visibly. Extreme high levels will antagonize other ions in the nutrient solution.
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Potassium -
Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.
Potassium serves to aid in the process of photosynthesis, nutrient uptake, respiration, and is a key to sturdy stems and disease resistance. Having an adequate supply for the plant early in it?s life stage will keep your seedlings from falling over.
Potassium deficiencies are identified by necrosis on the margins of larger fan leaves. Necrotic patches can be seen on the leaves as well. Leaves will eventually turn yellow, brown and die off. Most of the plants that show signs of a Potassium deficiency are going to be the tallest and best looking plants you have.
Again, feeding with a good all-around fertilizer will clear it up as well.
You can also use wood ashes and water them into your soil to fix this. You'll need to replace your soil's holding capacity of Potassium, and have a surplus before it will become available to the roots again.
Potassium (K)
Potassium is involved in maintaining the water status of the plant and the
tugor pressure of it's cells and the opening and closing of the stomata. Potassium is required in the accumulation and translocation of carbohydrates. Lack of potassium will reduce yield and quality.
Potassium deficiency:
Older leaves are initially chlorotic but soon develop dark necrotic lesions
(dead tissue). First apparent on the tips and margins of the leaves. Stem and branches may become weak and easily broken, the plant may also stretch. The plant will become susceptible to disease and toxicity. In addition to appearing to look like iron deficiency, the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die.
Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.
Figure 13
Figure 14
Potassium (K) Toxicity:
Usually not absorbed excessively by plants. Excess potassium can aggravate the uptake of magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron and effect the availability of calcium.
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Phosphorous -
Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.
Phosphorus (P)
Phosphorus is a component of certain enzymes and proteins, adenosine triphosphate (ATP), ribonucleic acids (RNA), deoxyribonucleic acids (DNA) and phytin. ATP is involved in various energy transfer reactions, and RNA and DNA are components of genetic information.
Phosphorous is used for plant energy by being assimilated into molecules called Adenosine-tri-phosphate, or ATP. This molecule is necessary for any plant activity that requires energy such as root growth, flowering, respiration, and vegetative growth.
Phosphorous deficiencies are distinct. Purple stems, leaf stems, leaf veins and stunted growth are a sure sign of a Phosphorous deficiency. Leaves will also tend to be smaller and dark green, and may or may not include necrotic patches. Bud size will be smaller and underdeveloped, as will the root mass.
A good all-around fertilizer like Peter's 20-20-20 will clear this up.
Phosphorus (P) deficiency:
Figure 11 is severe phosphorus (P) deficiency during flowering. Fan leaves are dark green or red/purple, and may turn yellow. Leaves may curl under, go brown and die. Small-formed buds are another main symptom.
Phosphorus deficiencies exhibit slow growing, weak and stunted plants with dark green or purple pigmentation in older leaves and stems.
Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.
Purpling: accumulation of anthocyanin pigments; causes an overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint, and is the common sign of phosphate deficiency. Some plant species and varieties respond to phosphate deficiency by yellowing instead of purpling. Purpling is natural to some healthy ornamentals.
Figure 11
Figure 12 shows Phosphorus (P) deficiency during vegatative growth. Many people mistaken this for a fungus, but look for the damage to occur near the end of leave, and leaves the color dull greyish with a very brittle texture.
Figure 12
Phosphorus (P) Toxicity:
This condition is rare and usually buffered by pH limitations. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the availability and stability of copper and zinc.
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Iron -
Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.
An Iron deficiency will mask a Magnesium deficiency. If you look at the newer growth, that will be where the plant exhibits the intervenial chlorosis typically differentiating it from a Magnesium deficiency.
Notice how the top of the plant is exhibiting intervenial chlorosis and the lower part is unaffected.
Iron (Fe)
Iron is an important component of plant enzyme systems for electron transport to carry electrons during photosynthesis and terminal respiration. It is a catalyst for chlorophyll production and is required for nitrate and sulfate reduction and assimilation.
Iron deficiency:
- Pronounced interveinal chlorosis similar to that caused by magnesium deficiency but on the younger leaves.
-Leaves exhibit chlorosis (yellowing) of the leaves mainly between the veins, starting with the lower and middle leaves.
Caused by factors that interfere with iron absorption of roots: over irrigation, excessive soluble salts, inadequate drainage, pests, high substrate pH, or nematodes. This is easily corrected by adding an iron supplement with the next watering.
Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.
Note : When adding iron to the solution, it is often necessary to not use fertilizer for that watering. Iron has a tendency of reacting with many of the components of fertilizer solutions, and will cause nutrient lockup to occur. Read the labels of both the iron supplement and the fertilizer you are using before you attempt to combine the two.
Figure 20
Iron Toxicity:
Excess accumulation is rare but could cause bronzing or tiny brown spots on leaf surface.
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Manganese -
Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.
A Manganese deficiency exhibits a general chlorosis, followed by yellowing patches and necrotic patches between the veins of the larger fan leaves.
Magnesium
Chlorophyll has the same structure as Hemoglobin, except that it has a magnesium atom in place of the Iron atom. Chlorophyll is how plants make sugars to feed the process of building ATP through the Krebs cycle(energy making process).
A magnesium deficient plant is identified by intervenial chlorosis, necrosis, and eventually a lockout of plant nutrients. The problems starts at the bottom of the plants and works its way up
These images depict different stages and signs of a magnesium deficiency. The first picture is a Mg deficient plant in flower, and the second two are of the leaves to show what I mean by Intervenial Chlorosis.
Treating with an Epsom salts mix will clear this right up.
Manganese (Mn)
Manganese is involved in the oxidation reduction process in the photosynthetic electron transport system. Biochemical research shows that this element plays a structural role in the chloroplast membrane system, and also activates numerous enzymes.
Manganese Deficiency:
Interveinal chlorosis of younger leaves, necrotic lesions and leaf shredding are typical symptom of this deficiency. High levels can cause uneven distribution of chlorophyll resulting in blotchy appearance. Restricted growth and failure to mature normally can also result.
-Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.
Manganese Toxicity:
Toxicity:Chlorosis, or blotchy leaf tissue due to insufficient chlorophyll synthesis. Growth rate will slow and vigor will decline.
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Zinc -
Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients-lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.
A Zinc deficient plant is obvious from the wispy new growth with twisted leaflets at 90°. There is also intervenial chlorosis at the top of the plant that is commonly confused with an Iron deficiency.
Notice in this picture that the older grown leaves are relatively unaffected and healthy
Zinc (Zn)
Zinc plays a roll in the same enzyme functions as manganese and magnesium. More than eighty enzymes contain tightly bound zinc essential for their function. Zinc participates in chlorophyll formation and helps prevent chlorophyll destruction. Carbonic anhydrate has been found to be specifically activated by zinc.
Zinc Deficiencies:
Deficiencies appear as chlorosis in the inter-veinal areas of new leaves producing a banding appearance as seen in figure 18. This may be accompany reduction of leaf size and a shortening between internodes. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled. Branch terminals of fruit will die back in severe cases.
Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients, lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc. Zinc deficiency produces "little leaf" in many species, especially woody ones; the younger leaves are distinctly smaller than normal. Zinc defeciency may also produce "rosetting"; the stem fails to elongate behind the growing tip, so that the terminal leaves become tightly bunched.
Figure 18
Zinc Toxicity:
Excess Zinc is extremely toxic and will cause rapid death. Excess zinc interferes with iron causing chlorosis from iron deficiency. Excess will cause sensitive plants to become chlorotic.
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Sulphur (S)
Sulfate is involved in protein synthesis and is part of the amino acids, cystine and thiamine, which are the building blocks of proteins. It is active in the structure and metabolism in the plant. It is essential for respiration and the synthesis and breakdown of fatty acids.
Sulphur deficiency:
The initial symptoms are the yellowing of the entire leaf including veins usually starting with the younger leaves. Leaf tips may yellow and curl downward. Sulfur deficiencies are light green fruit or younger leaves with a lack of succulence. Elongated roots and woody stem. Although it's hard to see in figure 19, the upper stems of this plant are purple. Although many varieties of cannabis do get purplish stems, the trait generally extends the entire length of the plant's stem, and not just near the top as in this specimen.
Figure 19
Sulphur Toxicity:
Leaf size will be reduced and overall growth will be stunted. Leaves yellowing or scorched at edges. Excess may cause early senescence.
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Chlorine (Cl)
Chloride is involved in the evolution of oxygen in the photosynthesis process and is essential for cell division in roots and leaves. Chlorine raises the cell osmotic pressure and affects stomata regulation and increases the hydration of plant tissue. Levels less than 140 ppm are safe for most plants. Chloride sensitive plants may experience tip or marginal leaf burn at concentrations above 20 ppm.
Chlorine Deficiency:
Wilted chlorotic leaves become bronze in color. Roots become stunted and thickened near tips. Plants with chlorine deficiencies will be pale and suffer wilting.
Chlorine Toxicity:
Burning of leaf tip or margins. Bronzing, yellowing and leaf splitting. Reduced leaf size and lower growth rate.
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Boron (B)
This is a rare occurrence and is exemplified by small gray or necrotic patches on the growing shoots which eventually die.
Fixing this is done easily by applying a foliar spray of eyewash containing Boric Acid. This picture is not really the best IMO, but it shows a gray patch on a leaf that is indicative of what to look for. This will most likely occur in outdoor grows.
Boron biochemical functions are yet uncertain, but evidence suggests it is involved in the synthesis of one of the bases for nucleic acid (RNA uracil) formation. It may also be involved in some cellular activities such as division, differentiation, maturation and respiration. It is associated with pollen germination.
Boron Deficiency:
Plants deficient in boron exhibit brittle abnormal growth at shoot tips and one of the earliest symptoms is failure of root tips to elongate normally. Stem and root apical meristems often die. Root tips often become swollen and discolored. Internal tissues may rot and become host to fungal disease. Leaves show various symptoms which include drying, thickening, distorting, wilting, and chlorotic or necrotic spotting.
Boron Toxicity:
Yellowing of leaf tip followed by necrosis of the leaves beginning at tips or margins and progressing inward before leaves die and prematurely fall off. Some plants are especially sensitive to boron accumulation.
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Copper (Cu)
A copper deficiency is commonly mistaken for an over fertilization problem, but it is set apart by the growing tips dieing off first along with the crispy leaves. The new shoots will die from the tips and margins first, often going brown or even white before they die.
A foliar feeding with a commercial fungicide containing Copper (ie. Copper Sulphate) will clear it up, but the damaged leaves may never recover.
Copper is a constituent of many enzymes and proteins. Assists in carbohydrate metabolism, nitrogen fixation and in the process of oxygen reduction.
Copper Deficiency:
Symptoms of deficiency are a reduced or stunted growth with a distortion of the younger leaves and growth tip die-back. Young leaves often become dark green and twisted. They may die back or just exhibit necrotic spots. Growth and yield will be deficient as well.
Copper Toxicity:
Copper is required in very small amounts and readily becomes toxic in solution culture if not carefully controlled. Excess values will induce iron deficiency. Root growth will be suppressed followed by symptoms of iron chlorosis, stunting, reduced branching, abnormal darkening and thickening of roots.
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Molybdenum (Mo)
A Molybdenum deficient plant will exhibit yellowing necrotic leaves from the tips inward, with necrotic lesions present from the tips inward. A very distinctive feature is that it occurs in the middle of the plant. It also may spread to the rest of the plant if not stopped, eventually killing your plant.
Fritted Trace Elements may be added to your soil mix as you prepare it for planting. A good Hydroponic nutrient should contain ample micros to get your plant through its lifecycle.
Molybdenum is a component of two major enzyme systems involved in the nitrate reeducates, this is the process of conversion of nitrate to ammonium.
Molybdenum Deficiencies:
Often interveinal chlorosis which occurs first on older leaves, then progressing to the entire plant. Developing severely twisted younger leaves which eventually die. Molybdenum deficiencies frequently resemble nitrogen, with older leaves chlorotic with rolled margins and stunted growth.
Molybdenum Toxicity:
Excess may cause discoloration of leaves depending on plant species. This condition is rare but could occur from accumulation by continuous application. Used by the plant in very small quantities. Excess mostly usually does not effect the plant, however the consumption of high levels by grazing animals can pose problems so she might not be too good to smoke.
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Sodium (Na)
Sodium seems to encourage crop yields and in specific cases it acts as an antidoting agent against various toxic salts. It may act as a partial substitute for potassium deficiencies. Excess may cause plant toxicity or induce deficiencies of other elements. If sodium predominates in the solution calcium and magnesium may be affected.
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Silicon (Si)
Silicon usually exists in solution as silicic acid and is absorbed in this form. It accumulates as hydrated amorphous silica most abundantly in walls of epidermal cells, but also in primary and secondary walls of other cells. It is largely available in soils and is found in water as well. Inadequate amounts of silicon can reduce tomato yields as much as 50%, cause new leaves to be deformed and inhibit fruit set. At this time toxicity symptoms are undetermined.
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Cobalt (Co)
Cobalt is essential to many beneficial bacteria that are involved in nitrogen fixation of legumes. It is a component of vitamin B12 which is essential to most animals and possibly in plants. Reports suggest that it may be involved with enzymes needed to form aromatic compounds. Otherwise, it is not understood fully as to its benefit to plant growth, but it is considered essential to some animal health issues.
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Calcium
Calcium is an important co-enzyme in the production of fatty acids, cell membranes, and is necessary for normal mitosis/cell division. A Ca deficiency will stunt plant growth. Acidic soils may increase the risk of a Ca def.
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Enviromental Factors
Check Your Water -
Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is "hard," usually due to too many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more than around 200ppm (parts per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants have a chronic problem. Ask your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area. This is a common request, especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and de-ionizers will. A digital TDS meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool for monitoring the nutrient levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it. They run about $40 and up.
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General Feeding Tips -
Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of thumb is to use more nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact opposite during the flowering period. For the veg. period try a N
:K ratio of about 10:7:8 (which of course is the same ratio as 20:14:16), and for flowering plants, 4:8:8. Check the pH after adding nutrients. If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks.
A general guideline for TDS levels is as follows:
seedlings = 50-150 ppm;
unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm;
small plants = 400-800 ppm;
large plants = 900-1800 ppm;
last week of flowering = taper off to plain water *** Personally, I would ALWAYS flush for 14days in soil, the colloids hold on to nutes very well in soil, minimum 10day in hydro, although 21 days in all media results in the smoothest smoke ever for me!. These numbers are just a guideline, and many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain nutrients are "invisible" to TDS meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual nutrient levels. When in doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or radish plants nearby for comparison.
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Nutrient Solution Burn:
Over Fertilization
This is a very common problem that can be disguised as an improper pH, or light burning, as well as a myriad of other problems.
The first picture masks as over Nitrification, but notice how the entire leaf is curled under, not just the tip.
This photo displays many problems associated with overferting, some of which could be a simple imbalance of pH and a certain nutrient/micro lockout at the given pH.
There's a good chance that this leaf was subjected to nutrient solution burn. These symptoms are seen when the EC concentration of hydroponic solutions is too high. These symptoms also appear when strong nutrient solution is splashed onto the leaves under hot HID lamps, causing the leaves to burn under the solution.
Figure 2
Many hydroponic gardeners see this problem. It's the beginning of nutrient burn. It indicates that the plants have all the nutrients they can possibly use, and there's a slight excess. Back off the concentration of the nutrient solution just a touch, and the problem should disappear. Note that if the plants never get any worse than this leaf (figure 3), then the plants are probably just fine. Figure 4 is definitely an over-fert problem. The high level of nutrients accumulates in the leaves and causes them to dry out and burn up as shown here. You must flush with clear, clean water immediately to allow the roots to recover, and prevent further damage. Now find the cause of the high nutrient levels.
If you know you have acute (very serious symptoms) of over fertilization (nutrient surplus) you need to act fast to save your plant. If you are growing hydroponically, empty the reservoir and start over. You may want to flush the medium once before refilling the reservoir. Read on for soil and soilless mixtures.
First, leach the grow medium. Leaching means you basically flush or run water through the mixture. Nutrients will be carried by the water and into the tray you use to catch water over flow. You should water your plants until it runs out the bottom into the trays. You will need to empty the trays a few times, so it is a good idea to have a spare tray to put the plant in when you empty the tray. (The plant will continue to drip out water so you want to have a second tray to put the plant in to keep down on the mess).
I use tap water, but you can leach the growing medium with a professional leaching agent to leach away metals, calcium, sodium, chlorides and other compounds, which can build up in the growing media. This leaching agent will bind to the nutrients and a good one will help remove nutrients that are not water soluble. Check the HTGSupply.com website for specific products.
Second, you need to check the pH if you are using a soilless mixture. Overwatering and leaching of nutrients will affect pH. If you are using soil this won’t be such a problem. Adjust the pH to the proper range for your plant.
Third, I would then administer a beneficial product like stump tea to the soil. The microorganisms will help to bring to balance any remaining nutrients and those lacking due to leaching. You could also use a high quality vitamin B-1 product such as Superthrive (1 drop per gallon). If your plants have been in the medium for a few weeks, you should also use a ¼ strength organic fertilizer to supply some nutrients for a week or two. Once you see good grow again increase to the manufactures recommended strength fertilizer.
You also may want to reduce the light intensity for a few days. If you are using an HID or LED you may want to raise the light a bit. Most indoor growers have the lights as close as possible to the plants to maximize absorption. But if you over fertilized your plants, they are stressed so reduce the light intensity and let the plants recover. Or, if it is not a hassle use fluorescents about 1” from the plant tops for a few days. The low output but excellent light frequencies provided by fluorescents are easy on plants.
You won’t see results instantly, it will be days. But you should see new growth lacking the symptoms.
Figure 3 (left) and Figure 4 (right)
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Over watering/ lack of Dissolved Oxygen:
Droopy leaves and lower leaf yellowing are indications of persistent over watering problems
The plants in figure 5 were on a continous drip system, where nutrient solution is constantly being pumped into the medium. This tends to keep the entire root system completely saturated. A better way would be to periodically feed the plants, say for 1/2 hour every 2-3 hours. This would give the roots a chance to get needed air to them, and prevent root rot and other problems.
Don't be throw off by the fact that the plants in figure 5 are sitting in still water, this is actually an H2O2 solution used to try and correct the problem. Adding an airstone to the tub would also help add O2 to the solution.
Figure 5
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PH -
Improper pH can cause an abundance of problems that you might easily confuse with other problems or deficiencies.
A pH imbalance may also be the cause of the deficiencies in the first place. pH in soil is best in the range of 6 up to 7.5, and in a Hydroponic system it?s best at 5.2-5.8. ***N.B I prefer the range in hydro of 5.6 in veg, 5.9 in flower, or 5.8 as a standard constant... see charts below!
The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5 (in rockwool, 5.5-6.1). Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above 7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy, and generally the more you pay the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from aquarium stores are inexpensive, but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter, preferably a waterproof one. You won't regret it.
pH Fluctuation:
Both of these leaves in figure 6 and figure 7 are from the same plant. It could be over fertilization, but more likely it is due to the pH being off. Too high or too low a pH can lock up nutrients in the form of undisolvable salts and compounds, some of which are actually toxic to the plants. What then happens is the grower then tries to supplement the plants diet by adding more fertilizers, throwing off the pH even more and locking up even more nutrients. This type of problem is seen more often in soil mixes, where inconsistent mixing of the medium's components leads to "hot" spots.
Figure 6 (top) and Figure 7 (bottom)
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Over Nitrification -
The following pictures show the ?claw?: indicative of over Nitrification. Some growers loadup their plants with Nitrogen prior to flowering. This will prepare them for the stretch to follow, and will increase bud production if induced a few weeks prior to blooming the plant.
Cold -
Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some
varieties, like equatorial sativas, don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the plant will be able to take cooler temps than it otherwise could.
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Heat -
[Editor's note: Radiant heat is also called ?light burn?. Typically, topmost leaves will become pale green, then turn brown as the burn progresses. Plants on the outmost edge of the garden will remain a healthy dark green, with light burned plants directly underneath the reflectors in a circular pattern.]
If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and look burnt, mimicking a nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you hold it at the top of the plants. Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should
be kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F (33) if you add additional CO2.
Look closely below, and you'll see the brown leaf edges that are indicative of heat stress. This damage looks alot like nutrient burn, except it occurs only at the tops of the plants closest to the lamps. There's only one cure for this...get the heat away from the plants, either by moving the lamps or moving the plants.
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Humidity -
Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is usually fine.
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Mold and Fungus -
Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower the humidity and increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves, wherever they are. Keep your garden clean.
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Insects -
White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites
underneath.
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Sprays -
Foliar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright lights, causing small white, yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some sprays can also cause chemical reactions.
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Insufficient light -
tall, stretching plants are usually from using the wrong kind of light.. Don't use regular incandescent bulbs ("grow bulbs") or halogens to grow cannabis. Invest in fluorescent lighting (good) or HID lighting (much better) which supply the high-intensity light
that cannabis needs for good growth and tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight.
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Clones -
yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or the stem may not be firmly touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much fertilizer can shrivel or wilt clones - plain tap water is fine.
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Ozone Damage -
Ozone damage typically found near the generator. Although a rare problem, symptoms generally appear as a Mg deficiency, but the symptoms are localized to immediately around the generator.
These Documents contain information gathered from many Online Communities and all possible references have been given to the authors of each individual article.
Plant Body Language.
First of all: prevention is key, keep on top
Of things and be pro-acktice with plant care and hygiene! That being said, growers everywhere run into problems so heres a useful guide to learning your plant!
Anyone who has grown plants indoors a few times will know that varieties of plant within a species can be quite different. They have different feeding requirements, look different, grow at a variety of speeds to a variety of sizes in a variety of timescales, and react differently to environmental conditions. These differences are due to genetic traits and are mainly a product of differences in geographical origin in respect to latitudinal climatic and light conditions, and natural selection within the environment. Plants are then crossed and bred to exhibit desirable qualities and new varieties are developed within the species. Other differences between varieties also become apparent, some plants are delicate and temperamental, some are strong and hardy, some more resistant to disease, some feed more than others, etc. With weed 93% is genetic, so make your 7% count!
With all that going on we need to get used to looking at the plant and quickly identifying any potential problems. This involves recognizing and familiarizing yourself with the plants body language and visual clues, some of which are in more detail below.
Looking at the plant as a whole
Look at the general colour and look of the plant
Stand back and have a general look at the plant as a whole. Does it look normal? It should be a fairly even colour – a nice vibrant shiny green and not too dark. The plants leaves should be a good size and fall nice and flat perpendicular to the light, and not pointing up or drooping down too much. Does the plant look relaxed and happy or tense and curled up? If you are having problems the first thing to do is back the light off a few inches, or a foot or two, this will take the pressure off the plant and help the plant recover while you evaluate any other causes.
Is the plant growing every day?
Under intense conditions it’s hard to keep everything perfect. As long as the plant is fairly healthy and growing every day then things aren’t too bad. As the plant gets bigger it will cope better with intense light conditions.
Look at new shoot growth
The new shoot growth is always the best indication of what is happening at any particular time. If new shoots are growing well and looking healthy then this might indicate any previous problems have now been overcome.
Is there any colour loss?
Top, middle or bottom of the plant Colour loss across areas of the plant may be caused by many things; overfeeding, causing nutrient deficiencies and colour loss over the whole plant, along with rust spots and small leaves. The first signs of overfeeding are dark green leaves that curl or hook downward at the tips as the plant tries to retain moisture; underfeeding, causing colour loss across the whole plant followed by nutrient deficiencies. Lack of main elements will show at the bottom of the plant first and move up, this is because the main three elements (N,P,K,) are mobile and will be transported from these positions to the tops where they are needed. Deficiencies in micro elements like iron, calcium and magnesium will show at the new shoots as interveinal colour loss as they cannot be borrowed internally from other leaves and are not mobile elements.
Other reasons for colour loss include cold nights, bleaching from the light being too close, wind burn, and too warm a nutrient solution causing lack of oxygen to the root for nutrient uptake. This will make the plant look droopy, grow very slowly and eventually develop colour loss and deficiencies. Over transpiration of the leaf from being too close to the light will show initially as a subtle loss of surface sheen followed by yellowing and rust spots a couple of weeks after the initial damage was done. These leaves will slowly die as the stomata are damaged and the leaf can no longer function properly.
Is there any leaf droop?
It’s often hard to avoid a bit of leaf droop during the latter part of an 18 hour light cycle using big lights, particularly in pots where the oxygen take up is limited or in hydroponic systems if the nutrient is getting a bit warm as the light cycle goes on. Protect your nutrient temperature. 18 hours of optimum light is very demanding especially on young plants but as they get bigger they can deal with the light and heat better, it is important to keep the plant healthy until on the 12hour cycle where the larger plant and shorter grow light cycle will make better use of lower lamp heights and more intense conditions.
Leaf loss
With fast growing light loving plants it is quite normal to lose some of the bottom larger leaves as the plant gets bigger. They will normally gradually lose their colour first. These leaves are not getting much light any more and the plant will discard them for leaves nearer the light that can produce more energy.
Growth patterns
These are largely inbuilt into the plant genetics but can be quite largely affected by the growing conditions, environment and plant diet. Some plants are naturally short and bushy, others are tall and sparsely branched. Apart from the breeding, sparsely branched and stretched looking plants could be due to not enough light or too much light and heat from the light source. So is the light too close or not close enough? It’s your call, work it out. Look for other signs like upward leaf curl indicating the leaf is trying to retain moisture. In this case maybe the light is too close and too hot causing this curl. (Note: Plants can cope better with intense high light levels better in a good hydroponic system where there is lots of water and oxygen, the plants can transpire and control their body temperature more easily and efficiently. In pots under optimum light the plant cannot perform as efficiently and the light may need to be slightly farther away.)
A closer look at leaves
Leaf size
Leaf size is important. Leaves may generally be bigger under sodium lights and slightly smaller under fluorescent and halide lights. If leaves generally appear too small it may also be an indication that you are close to overfeeding, check leaf colour to confirm. Large leaves are a good thing.
Leaf colour
A shiny vibrant green, not to dark, is what we’re looking for. Too dark and dull are symptoms of overfeeding.
Leaf shape
The shape of the leaf depends largely on the genetics, although if the blades look a little narrow, lacking in colour and not reaching a good size or shape the may be a main element deficiency. Increase feed strength slightly. Twisting and mutating of new leaves is either unstable genetics, lack of silicon or more commonly excess chlorine. De-chlorinate your tap water for at least 12 hours before use.
Yellowing of leaf tips
This is common and hard to avoid, as long as there are no other associated symptoms it may just be a bit of light wind burn.
Leaf tip curl down
When leaves curl at the tips and margins the plant is trying to retain moisture. When they curl down this is usually an indication of overfeeding, the feed is too strong on the outside of the root membrane so through reverse osmosis water passes from inside the plant across the root membrane to water down the strong solution outside the plant, it does this in an attempt to even out the pressure on both side of the root membrane.
Leaf tip curl up
When leaves curl at the tips and margins the plant is trying to retain moisture. When they up this is would be due to an environmental problem rather than a nutrient problem. This could either be due to wind burn, or the lights to close, or not enough air exchange or a combination of all three. I may well be the light is too close for the stage of growth, size of plant or specific variety. Some plants are more sensitive than others.
Leaf margin curl
Curling down is more associated with problems in the root zone, usually overfeeding (check for curling down leaf tip and other symptoms). It could also be temperature or oxygen problems in the root zone. Curling up margins are more associated with environmental problems and would be caused by the same problems as leaf tip curl up.
Over transpiration damage
Transpiration damage on leaves is caused by too much light and heat. In its attempts to keep cool the plant over transpires moisture from its. In this case the leaf may immediately look a bit blotchy and have lost it shiny, thick, smooth green look for a few days and then start to loose colour generally and especially between the leaf veins where rusty spots start to appear. These later symptoms of colour loss, rusty spots and general leaf damage usually show themselves a couple of weeks after the damage has been done, a few inches under the fresh shoots, indicating it was a bit hot or the light was a little close for a while a couple of weeks ago. The bigger the plant gets the easier it can deal with the light and heat. Always check new growth and move the light away a few inches if your’e in doubt. This condition is often mistaken as a nutrient deficiency, which are actually quite rare and 90% of all leaf damage and rust spotting is environmental not nutritional.
Wind burn
This is a common problem in the summer when using oscillating fans indoors, you have to be careful not to blow too hard on the top surface of the leaf where there is a lot of light or you can draw too much moisture from the leaf and it will at first start to curl up at the tip and margins slightly in an attempt to retain moisture. Then the leaf will lose colour and start to die back a golden brown colour from the leaf tip. The dead part will soon become brittle and crispy. Aim you fans away slightly or more directly at the lamp.
Main element leaf deficiency symptoms
Potassium deficiency is common and will show first as a yellowing of the larger leaves from the tips and margins inward towards the main leaf vein. Nitrogen deficiency shows first on the larger lower leaves as a yellowing of the tips spreading evenly back towards the leaf stem. Phosphorus deficiency is common too and will give a dark purple tinge to your larger green leaves, it will also cause purpling of the stems. These are main elements and therefore mobile elements, meaning your new shoots are one of the last parts of the plant to be affected, enabling you to rectify the deficiency before it seriously affects the plant.
Micro element deficiency symptoms
All essential micro elements like iron, calcium, magnesium, etc are all non-mobile elements. This means these elements once initially sited cannot move around the plant to where they are needed like Nitrogen. Instead deficiencies in the micro elements will initially show at the new shoots and leaves and not on older or bigger leaves.
Colour loss on old large leaves
This is very normal. These big leaves are the main engines of the plant, when the plant gets bigger they will fall off and often lose colour first. These leaves are no longer getting enough light, the plant will replace them with up and coming leaves nearer the light source and grow them into big leaf light catching engines to replace the old ones which now use more energy than they produce.
Purple stems
This is usually associated with a Phosphorus deficiency, check for purpling of the leaves. It can also be caused by cold or just normal plant genetics.
Roots
Damping off
This often affects young plants in propagators where the environment is too wet and humid, and the air is still. The bottom of the stem goes soft and watery looking, this may be the start of stem rot.
Healthy roots
If you are in a hydoponic system check your roots regularly making sure they look reasonably white and healthy and growing to a reasonable size. If in doubt or in pots use products like Sensi Zym, Hygrozyme or Voodoo Juice to increase root mass and products like Trichoderma and Guardian Angel to protect the roots zone from infection.
Slight Browning of the root surface
This is hard to avoid especially during the latter part of a plant’s cycle. Slight browning may be caused by chilled roots from turning solution off where roots are totally exposed like in NFT system. Any more than a bit of browning here and there may indicate you have some root disease.
Pythium and other root diseases
If your roots come apart when gentle pulled, are all sloppy and off colour you probably have pythium or some other root disease. You can protect yourself from the offset by inoculating your young plantlets with Trichoderma Powder which is a beneficial fungi. These beneficial mould and fungi treatments will prevent any other pathogen from taking hold in the root zone and also stimulate the roots. Enzyme products like Dutch master zone, Hygrozyme and Sensi Zym also help prevent infection by bolstering the root zone and significantly increasing root mass. If you already have a disease problem use Bio-Sept, Guardian Angel or ultimately a Vecton UV Sterilizer unit.
For those of you who took the time to read to hear... Without skipping, you have promise, a keen learner will make a good grower! For those who skipped most of it, stop being lazy and read... It could save your plants one day.
disorder guides!
Peace folks!
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