Yellowing leaves, not N deficiency

Blunter the kid

Blunter the kid

Well-Known Member
1)
2) Growing indoor:
under a 400w MH conversion bulb meant for HPS ballast
Temps stay around 78-86 throughout the day.
3) Watering Schedule:
I water the plant just about every other day whenever it gets dry with 0 ppm water fresh from the RO filter at 7.2 ph.
4) Growing Medium:
My soil is 25% perlite, 50% worm castings, and 25%
5) What stage of growth:
It's 11 weeks into vegetative.
I feed it every 4 weeks with a product
called growilla veg food (which is bat guano, azomite, and dried worm castings) Green Gro granular mycorrhizal Innoculants mixed into fresh worm castings.
The mixture is used to top dress my plant and is subsequently watered in with compost tea or RO water.

I have some yellowing of my lower leaves, but due to the color of the rest of my plant I'm thinking it cannot be nitrogen deficiency does anyone have any ideas, could it be a specific nutrient lockout? From what I've read it sounds like I have a nitrogen deficiency, but due to my very dark green leaves it also sounds like nitrogen toxicity :/
 

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Da Mann

Da Mann

Well-Known Member
To be honest the plant looks very good. As long as you do not start loosing a lot you should be ok.I do not think I have ever grown a plant that has not lost a few leaves. Keep a eye out and I would keep doing what you are doing. But I know nothing. Besides all the others look perfect.
 
Blunter the kid

Blunter the kid

Well-Known Member
Da Mann said:
To be honest the plant looks very good. As long as you do not start loosing a lot you should be ok.I do not think I have ever grown a plant that has not lost a few leaves. Keep a eye out and I would keep doing what you are doing. But I know nothing. Besides all the others look perfect.
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Okay cool, I really appreciate the input guy :)
 
Da Mann

Da Mann

Well-Known Member
I forgot one thing. Why is ph so high? Kind of alkaline. It looks good but I missed the 11 week veg deal. It looks more like about 8 weeks to me. Maybe drop the ph and keep a eye out. With ph a bit lower it might take up more nutes and be bad.
 
zander19

zander19

Well-Known Member
ok wow 11weeks in veg bro get them into flowering no need for 11 weeks 4weeks tops your ph is a little to high 6.5 is best works for me
 
zander19

zander19

Well-Known Member
an as for you yellowing thats fine just mean the plant used up the energy in those leaves it will happen more as you go through flowing. this is something people miss understand an confused buy grows buy saying it issue rather than something normal.. nice plant looks great an good you going to have buds everywere dude lol. whats the strain?
 
Blunter the kid

Blunter the kid

Well-Known Member
zander19 said:
an as for you yellowing thats fine just mean the plant used up the energy in those leaves it will happen more as you go through flowing. this is something people miss understand an confused buy grows buy saying it issue rather than something normal.. nice plant looks great an good you going to have buds everywere dude lol. whats the strain?
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I know I should have flowered but I've been playing around with LST for a while and just recently split a main stem down the middle, so I had to tie her up until the split sealed up.
For the most part it's healed but I'm gonna wait about a week and foliar some silica until she's all the way healed :)
As for the strain i believe its Sweet tooth x jack herrer
Da Mann said:
I forgot one thing. Why is ph so high? Kind of alkaline. It looks good but I missed the 11 week veg deal. It looks more like about 8 weeks to me. Maybe drop the ph and keep a eye out. With ph a bit lower it might take up more nutes and be bad.
Click to expand...
I wanted to lower the ph but I didn't want to disturb my microherd, but now that you say that I suppose I could try citric acid to lower ph a tad, do you think it would hurt the microbes?
 
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DonAlejandroVega

DonAlejandroVega

Well-Known Member
why RO water? give sprinkle of Epsom with next watering..............don't go crazy. looks good. if you get a yellow leaf here an' there, no biggy.
 
Da Mann

Da Mann

Well-Known Member
I wanted to lower the ph but I didn't want to disturb my microherd said:
No. Lowering the PH is not going to hurt your dirt bugs. But the plant might be able to take up more nutes. Then watch for any changes. You have a lot of nitrogen in them.
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Schwagstock

Schwagstock

Active Member
Any kind of chemical salt , or chemical that is not biodegradable WILL damage any life within the soil. The questions remains as to how much exzactly...but when we look at how soil is very much one large working organism, comprised of many smaller ones much like our bodies, it tends to make me think putting a little of any chemical is much like putting a little lye on our arm, sure it wont kill ya, many people may not even notice the changes, but god damn you sure will know and so will your soil even if its just a little burn
 
Blunter the kid

Blunter the kid

Well-Known Member
Schwagstock said:
Any kind of chemical salt , or chemical that is not biodegradable WILL damage any life within the soil. The questions remains as to how much exzactly...but when we look at how soil is very much one large working organism, comprised of many smaller ones much like our bodies, it tends to make me think putting a little of any chemical is much like putting a little lye on our arm, sure it wont kill ya, many people may not even notice the changes, but god damn you sure will know and so will your soil even if its just a little burn
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Yea I figured they would be sensitive to the ph up and down chemicals so I thought it best not to even test it.
I had been building my soil with microbes for about a month prior to using the soil for my plant, so I did not want to undo all that work those little critters have already done :)
What do you recommend for organic ph up and down?
 
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Schwagstock

Schwagstock

Active Member
Blunter the kid said:
Yea I figured they would be sensitive to the ph up and down chemicals so I thought it best not to even test it.
I had been building my soil with microbes for about a month prior to using the soil for my plant, so I did not want to undo all that work those little critters have already done :)
What do you recommend for organic ph up and down?
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I dont personally use ph up or down, I like to put dolomite lime as well as gypsum to stabilize ph into my soil prior to planting and cooking into there along with many other amendments. That ensures my ph stays at 6.5 without ever phing anything. My ro comes out around 5.6ish?
 
Blunter the kid

Blunter the kid

Well-Known Member
Schwagstock said:
I dont personally use ph up or down, I like to put dolomite lime as well as gypsum to stabilize ph into my soil prior to planting and cooking into there along with many other amendments. That ensures my ph stays at 6.5 without ever phing anything. My ro comes out around 5.6ish?
Click to expand...
I'm willing to do the same thing, problem is I don't really understand how much I need to add to lower my ph to the 6.5-6.8 range.
I'm heading to the local nursery tomorrow to pick up some soil after school, so I may as well pick up some dolomite and gypsum, could you help me figure out how
much to add to the soil when I transplant?
Help will be much appreciated as always :o

Edit: I should add that my problem has become clear, it is high ph, my leaves are starting to turn a little pale green and the discoloration is moving up the plant pretty fast, so I would like to get this sorted out quickly before I start dropping more than a few leaves
 
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Schwagstock

Schwagstock

Active Member
I personally put about a half cup gypsum and a half to 3/4 dolomite lime per 1.5 c/f some people put about twice that atleast in the dolomite area for the calcium magnesium and buffer ability but I find it then keeps the ph higher maintaining it around 7 which is not necessarily bad in soil but I prefer to be under the highest I am willing to get. I then compensate later in flowering around week 4 for the mg and ca being eaten up by adding mollasses in small amounts and adding crabshell to my teas as well as amending that into the soil to add additional calcium to compensate for the lesser amount im getting in the dolomite .To put it all simply though add that to your soil in a tote and water it, turn it ever few days and water as needed until about the 21 day mark (a tad longer wouldnt hurt) and then the dirt is ready to go. You possibly could just put it right in and not cook it (the process of watering and turning is called cooking) with that low of an amount of amendment, but I wouldnt advise it, it could cause a few lockouts for the first week or two. Sorry its so long, if anything is confusing or you got questions I log on fairly often.
 
weedenhanced

weedenhanced

Well-Known Member
Blunter the kid said:
1)
2) Growing indoor:
under a 400w MH conversion bulb meant for HPS ballast
Temps stay around 78-86 throughout the day.
3) Watering Schedule:
I water the plant just about every other day whenever it gets dry with 0 ppm water fresh from the RO filter at 7.2 ph.
4) Growing Medium:
My soil is 25% perlite, 50% worm castings, and 25%
5) What stage of growth:
It's 11 weeks into vegetative.
I feed it every 4 weeks with a product
called growilla veg food (which is bat guano, azomite, and dried worm castings) Green Gro granular mycorrhizal Innoculants mixed into fresh worm castings.
The mixture is used to top dress my plant and is subsequently watered in with compost tea or RO water.

I have some yellowing of my lower leaves, but due to the color of the rest of my plant I'm thinking it cannot be nitrogen deficiency does anyone have any ideas, could it be a specific nutrient lockout? From what I've read it sounds like I have a nitrogen deficiency, but due to my very dark green leaves it also sounds like nitrogen toxicity :/
Click to expand...
There is absolutely nothing wrong with ut plants its normal for lower growth to die like that it will yellow and fall off if u leave it id recommend a nice little trim of the lower section of ur plant get bit more airflow in it
Schwagstock said:
Any kind of chemical salt , or chemical that is not biodegradable WILL damage any life within the soil. The questions remains as to how much exzactly...but when we look at how soil is very much one large working organism, comprised of many smaller ones much like our bodies, it tends to make me think putting a little of any chemical is much like putting a little lye on our arm, sure it wont kill ya, many people may not even notice the changes, but god damn you sure will know and so will your soil even if its just a little burn
Click to expand...
Hmmm I use epsom salts to its magnesium
I use all chemical nuts 2 absolutely no organic shit full hydro chem fulla salt should see bottom of pots or res after a grow hardcore salt build up makes my plants thrive go super concentrated chems here is a 3 week old nl auto feeding it dutch master gold nuts
20140606_181819.jpg
Thats under hps it just started to bud
20140529_194619.jpg
2 weeks old under mh fed nut chems since it was 1 week old
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Blunter the kid said:
I'm willing to do the same thing, problem is I don't really understand how much I need to add to lower my ph to the 6.5-6.8 range.
I'm heading to the local nursery tomorrow to pick up some soil after school, so I may as well pick up some dolomite and gypsum, could you help me figure out how
much to add to the soil when I transplant?
Help will be much appreciated as always :o

Edit: I should add that my problem has become clear, it is high ph, my leaves are starting to turn a little pale green and the discoloration is moving up the plant pretty fast, so I would like to get this sorted out quickly before I start dropping more than a few leaves
Click to expand...
Rule of thumb on Dolomite to base soil mixture is 1 cup per cubic foot of soil......
The amount of dissolved C02 in the water is the determining factor in what the pH will be after RO treatment....You won't change that......
But a pH even as high as yours will be handled by the soil to the proper #'s.....
Soil will self pH if it has the proper amendments.....Don't worry about your soil's pH......
Silica will lower the pH of solutions and waters......I understand you want to go organic,,,,there are organic silica's available.

Dyna-Gro Pro-tekt Silica
G&H Armor Si
Are real good silica's

Strictly organic you say?
Azomite

Look around
 
R

resinousflowers420

Well-Known Member
Schwagstock said:
Any kind of chemical salt , or chemical that is not biodegradable WILL damage any life within the soil. The questions remains as to how much exzactly...but when we look at how soil is very much one large working organism, comprised of many smaller ones much like our bodies, it tends to make me think putting a little of any chemical is much like putting a little lye on our arm, sure it wont kill ya, many people may not even notice the changes, but god damn you sure will know and so will your soil even if its just a little burn
Click to expand...
you can foliar feed with epsom salts,its fine.and epsom salt is a naturally occurring mineral.
 
S'Manta

S'Manta

Well-Known Member
I think my well water pH may be my problem, too, along with being root bound. My water is 7.2. This post is very enlightening and back to the store I go.
 
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