Yellowing leaves, not N deficiency

Dr. Who said:

Rule of thumb on Dolomite to base soil mixture is 1 cup per cubic foot of soil......
The amount of dissolved C02 in the water is the determining factor in what the pH will be after RO treatment....You won't change that......
But a pH even as high as yours will be handled by the soil to the proper #'s.....
Soil will self pH if it has the proper amendments.....Don't worry about your soil's pH......
Silica will lower the pH of solutions and waters......I understand you want to go organic,,,,there are organic silica's available.

Dyna-Gro Pro-tekt Silica
G&H Armor Si
Are real good silica's

Strictly organic you say?
Azomite

Look around

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Thanks for all the help so far, I'm not going 100% organic because it's very confusing and there is a lot of debate as to what works and what doesn't and I don't have enough experience with compost teas yet.
In my opinion chemical fertilizers are not bad, in fact I use a couple products by H&G, I already spray her with silica here's the foliar regimen I give my plant twice a week:
Amino Treatment
Multi-Zen
Kelplex liquid kelp
Magic green

I have worked to keep these microbes alive for a while now and it would be a shame to massacre them just to try and solve my ph problem so I'll try adding in some azomite and dolomite to see if the problem clears up.
I'll post back with results but for now here's a few pictures of my plant as she stands now, yellowing is increasing

Edit: Notice how my plant is exhibiting that weird growth in the last picture, I'm thinking it stopped growing from the main terminal shoot and all the internodes are growing out, it's happened before just not quite like this, every one of my tops is trying to turn into about 7 new tops.
I'm curious whether I should transplant this one and leave it under the sun for the rest of the season so it turns into a real big bush or should I transplant it and flower it?

weedenhanced said:

There is absolutely nothing wrong with ut plants its normal for lower growth to die like that it will yellow and fall off if u leave it id recommend a nice little trim of the lower section of ur plant get bit more airflow in it

Hmmm I use epsom salts to its magnesium
I use all chemical nuts 2 absolutely no organic shit full hydro chem fulla salt should see bottom of pots or res after a grow hardcore salt build up makes my plants thrive go super concentrated chems here is a 3 week old nl auto feeding it dutch master gold nuts
View attachment 3171389
Thats under hps it just started to bud
View attachment 3171390
2 weeks old under mh fed nut chems since it was 1 week old

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Thats cool bro never said you cant do it, and im not hitting on chemical or organic hydro or soil I do love em all if done properly. Ive done chem and organic personally I get way greater yields when I mastered the organic, and much easier but thats just me. Im just saying in a totally organic grow it def will and does harm micro life, any salt buildup will dry it out. Throw salt on a worm see what happens...in a chem grow youre not really focused on the microlife as you are force feeding the plant nutes, im sure micros still live amongst your soil just fine, but I could guarantee you if we tested both our soils mine would have far far more thriving and living in it just because it has nothing added to it that could dry it out. Epsom salts are a great means of magnesium for sure I know many who use it, and of course if its working for you rock it..

The yellowing you have is natural leaf die off. These are the lower, not in the light , of no more good use to the plant leaves.
The plant is using up the available nutrition in the leaves before they dry up and fall off.
Nothing to worry about.

Keep going.

didnt read all the responses but easy answer.

FLOWER THAT BITCH!!!!

Also may possibly just be rootbound after a HUGE veg. I would give it some calmag, put it in a 5gal pot, and put it in your flowering area under 18-6 or 16-8 (under your HPS/LED whatever u are flowering with) for a week or 2 then 12/12. Once she looks like she has adjusted to the new pot and lights get that bitch flowering asap, she is more than ready but dont put a stressed plant into 12/12.

purplehays1 said:

didnt read all the responses but easy answer.

FLOWER THAT BITCH!!!!

Also may possibly just be rootbound after a HUGE veg. I would give it some calmag, put it in a 5gal pot, and put it in your flowering area under 18-6 or 16-8 (under your HPS/LED whatever u are flowering with) for a week or 2 then 12/12. Once she looks like she has adjusted to the new pot and lights get that bitch flowering asap, she is more than ready but dont put a stressed plant into 12/12.

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I'm thinking about mixing up powdered kelp, leonardite, dolomite, azomite, and mycorrhizal Innoculant into the soil I'm using for transplanting.
Then I'm thinking about layering the soil with Jamaican bat guano so i can use only water up until harvest.
Would adding all that into the pot be overkill?

Transplanted yesterday and she seems to be doing fine, yellowing was because she was totally root bound.
I walked outside this morning and she was standing straight up, reaching for the sun so she's all fixed up.
Thanks everyone for the advice

I'm having some necrosis after a transplant.
I'm thinking it's a potassium deficiency the symptoms are brown spots on the lower middle leaves accompanied by yellowing and eventual death of lower leaves.
I thought I had it sorted out but the evidence is obviously there, I seem to have furthered whatever deficiency I have, any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Bump.. Can anyone give some advice, I don't want to give my plant the wrong treatment.