Yellowing Leaves Problem!!

Milenko22

Member
Hi Guys,

I'd like some thoughts and advice please : -

Plant : Barney's Farm Tangerine Dream (sativa/indica) (from feminised seeds)
Environment : Outdoor for whole of UK season (started in March)
Medium : Soil - Miracle Gro Organic and lots of perlite
Food : Up until now - Miracle Gro All purpose soluble plant food
Once indoor i am using Plant Magic organic Old Timer "Bloom"

Problem : The plant has grown very well and has been very hardy. Have not really had any pests problems. I'm sure over time it has gradually got more and more yellow.
Just before flowering started There was a section in the top third of the plant that started yellowing more than anywhere else. The plant is huge. Probably about 6 and a half foot plus.
As i was worried about frosts towards end of year I decided to bring it indoors into a temporary grow room i set up.

Grow room : 1 x 600watt HPS (Sunmaster dual spectrum bulb)

As you can see from the pics it has got more yellow over time. The indoor pics unfortunately are biased to being more yellow due to colour of the light but new growth seems to be quite dark green but leaves seem to be dying and yellowing quicker than i'd like now.

One issue i've dealt with is that i should have potted on many months back and the plant got root bound. I took the executive decision to repot when i took it indoors. This was a few weeks into flowering. It's now in a huge patio pot. I carefully loosened the roots around the outside of the ball before placing in the new one.

I'm not sure of the problem. My thoughts were that it sounded like a possible pH problem causing lock-out. I live in a hard water area and i bought an electronic pH meter and my tap water came out at 7.9 which is not as bad as i thought.

Should i be adjusting pH manually when growing in soil? I thought that was only necessary when growing hydroponically?

...or is this level of leaf drop normal during flowering?
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max316420

Well-Known Member
Magnesium def, calmag will help.. next grow start supplementing with calmag right when you flip your lights to 12/12
 

max316420

Well-Known Member
shit dude you don't even have too, i can tell exactly what that is and u have yourself a magnesium def
 

mrbluesuk

Active Member
yea pretty bad mag def. dutch pro soil improver will most likely help too. that is if it is your soil what is causing the defiencies. and you could use it right awaybongsmilie
 

indipow82

Well-Known Member
Okay reall got a ph issue. your run off shot be only a few points higher thatn what you are putting in. That is causing nute lock out and that is what is really going on. Fix the PH and you supposed deficiency will go away. PH NEEDS TO BE LOWER. 7.9 is no good, get it down to 6.2 or so.
 

indipow82

Well-Known Member
And if your water is hard like you say, then you need to watch your ppm and keep your nutirent amount lower when feeding to avoid over fert.
 

max316420

Well-Known Member
Have you tried dolomite lime? Doesn't matter what the ph of your water is, if you have lime in your soil you will never have to worry about ph again.. I used to be crazy about ph and then a wise grower named WETDOG let me in on the secret of lime and how and why it works.. Have had a single issue since
 

indipow82

Well-Known Member
Dolomite lime is usually used when you have a low ph run off and you want to raise the PH not lower it. It has average ph of about 7.0 also. Not good in this case where it needs to be lowered.
 

indipow82

Well-Known Member
Have you tried dolomite lime? Doesn't matter what the ph of your water is, if you have lime in your soil you will never have to worry about ph again.. I used to be crazy about ph and then a wise grower named WETDOG let me in on the secret of lime and how and why it works.. Have had a single issue since
From a chemist on why USING PH adjusted water is important even with lime added as a conditioner and how it leaves excess amounts of slat build up! Very interesting and factual.

Why and how does lime work? A chemical discussion of lime and pH in soil.
Why does lime work?

As a chemist, I was very curious as to why lime (dolomite lime) works in soils. At first glance, it didn't seem like it should, as I will explain below. Note that this explanation is necessarily chemical in nature, but I will try to explain things as I go.

Before going further, I want to briefly explain chemical equilibria. If you're fluent in this area, you can skip this paragraph, otherwise, read on. Most chemical reactions are reversible, which means that they can go either way (forward or backward). This reversibility is repeatable, meaning a given chemical reaction will always perform the same way. Chemical reactions are described by a chemical equation, and the equilibrium constant tells the chemist which "side" of the reaction is more favored. The equilibrium constant is defined for a given reaction by the ratio of the concentration (or activity, or partial pressure, depending on your measurement system) of products of a reaction, multiplied by each other and taken to the power of their coefficient in the reaction, divided by the concentration (activity, partial pressure, etc.) of the reactants. An equilibrium constant is just that - a constant, and is unchanged at a given set of conditions. This means that a chemical reaction will do whatever is necessary to achieve the equilibrium defined by its equilibrium constant. This is important later on . What the equilibrium constant allows one to do is figure out what will happen when a given set of chemicals are put together. The equilibrium constant is usually given the symbol Keq ("eq" is subscript); for acids and bases, the equilibrium constant is known as Ka (the "a" should be subscript), which describes the "acidity" or "basicity" of the given chemical. The larger the Ka, the more acidic. Back to the main discussion...

The idea behind lime is that it takes acidity in the soil and neutralizes it, and the result is that the pH becomes neutral, or about 7. Some people think lime "buffers" the soil. This false belief will be explained below.

Limestone is composed primarily of magnesium and calcium carbonate, along with some other minerals. These have the formulas: Mg(CO3) and Ca(CO3). Note that when dissolved, these will create carbonate (CO3) (2-) and the respective 2+ metal ions.

However, when you look up the Ka2 for carbonic acid, the Henderson Hasselbalch equation tells us that the pH should be in the 10.25 range (Ka2 is 5.6E-11; (-)log of this value is 10.2518) (note, this value is a bit different in a 50/50 mix of carbonate and bicarbonate in this publication: http://www.biochemj.org/bj/039/0245/0390245.pdf, however the pH of the initial water will affect this value). If lime is used in soil, how could it be that the pH of the soil would end up as "neutral?" Reaction of acid with the carbonate would yield hydrogen carbonate (aka bicarbonate, or the anion of baking soda) so that the buffer system would be around 10.25 assuming equal parts bicarbonate and carbonate.

CO3 (2-) + H+ <--> HCO3 - Keq = 1/Ka2 (carbonic acid) = 1/5.6E-11

[An interesting sidenote: the buffer solution I bought with my pH meter uses this particular system as the pH = 10.0 buffer! This served as some of the motivation for this post.] If the system is composed of carbonate and bicarbonate, we will have a buffer, and at way too high of a pH!

But wait...the bicarbonate is still basic, i.e. it can accept a proton (Arrhenius base; in the same way that baking soda is a base!). However, because of the large separation of Ka values, this will happen only AFTER carbonate has been made into bicarbonate, i.e. no acid will react with bicarbonate when there is carbonate still around.

HCO3 - + H+ <---> H2CO3 Keq = 1/Ka1 (carbonic acid) = 1/4.3E-7

Thus, acid will convert carbonate to bicarbonate, then bicarbonate to carbonic acid.

The key to this system is that carbonic acid (our final product here) spontaneously decomposes into carbon dioxide and water.

H2CO3 --> CO2 + H2O

So as the carbonate is converted to bicarbonate and the bicarbonate is converted to carbonic acid, it is effectively "evaporated" from the soil!

So why not just add bicarbonate (baking soda) to the solution or to the soil right off the bat? If bicarbonate is the species that is created by lime reacting with natural soil acidity, why bother with lime and just instead use good ol' baking soda?

The answer is: you could, but there are two problems. The first is that you'll be introducing a lot of sodium into your system (soil). That's not good. The second is that, in the absence of acid, you would get a pH of soil around 8.2, which is far too high. Like I mentioned above, bicarbonate (we call sodium bicarbonate "baking soda") is a base, and will raise your pH.

But wait...if this is true, wouldn't carbonate be even more basic? Shouldn't it be worse? So...why does lime work?

The issue here is the solubility of Calcium/Magnesium carbonate. They have respective solubilities of 4.5E-9 (Ca) and 3.5E-8 (Mg); this is very low. In other words, there is not "free" carbonate in solution, the magnesium/calcium carbonate don't dissolve very well and as a result, CO3 (2-) is only released when it encounters acid. [Calcium carbonate is also "chalk," have you noticed that chalk doesn't dissolve very well in water? But the acid rain we now have around the world does eventually remove the sidewalk art that children draw, or outlines of dead bodies if you want to be dark...]

When you use calcium carbonate, and react with acid, you get a complex solubility problem; i.e. two equilibria are taking place simultaneously...dissolution and acid base reaction:

CaCO3 <--> Ca2+ and CO3 (2-)
CO3 (2-) + H+ <---> HCO3-

Keq (total) = Ksp(=4.5E-9)* 1/Ka2 =~ 80.

This means this reaction will go (though 80 is not that huge of a Keq); this is because the calcium carbonate doesn't WANT to dissolve, but it is immediately "eaten up" when it does dissolve that, by Le Chateliers principle, by "removing" carbonate in the first equation, the reaction will continue to shift to the right to ensure chemical equilibrium, so the calcium carbonate will continue to dissolve. Thus, carbonate is liberated and turned to bicarbonate, but note that the acidification of bicarbonate to make carbonic acid is much more likely to happen next (because of the small Keq here and the much larger Keq for the acidification of bicarbonate). So what will happen is that as you dissolve carbonate, you create bicarbonate, this in turn becomes carbonic acid, and then the carbonic acid will dissipate naturally.

Thus, a quick fix for a very low pH soil seems like it would be to add a baking soda solution, since this will raise the PH. However, you can easily "overshoot" and end up with a high pH, and you are unnecessarily adding sodium to your soil!

On the other hand, unless there is acidity, the lime won't do anything. People who say they have a high pH value because of lime added are blaming the wrong suspect...the lime is insoluble in basic solutions, so it will not raise the pH. These are first cousins of people who say that lime "buffers" the soil, which it does not do (from a strictly chemistry point of view). A buffer is created when there is a sufficient amount of a base and conjugate acid, or acid and conjugate base. In this case, we would be talking about a roughly equal proportion of CO3/HCO3 (which made my buffer solution, above!) or HCO3/H2CO3. This will not happen in a lime solution, no matter how much acid you have, because the acid will react with the carbonate to make bicarbonate, and when there is any bicarbonate around, the acid would much rather react with it until it is all converted to carbonic acid...which, as we know, will naturally degrade. So you cannot have both carbonate and bicarbonate in any appreciable amounts together, nor can you have bicarbonate and carbonic acid in appreciable amounts. Thus, lime does not "buffer" the pH, but it prevents it from getting too low. A buffer would protect against both positive and negative changes in pH, and lime will not prevent pH from raising from some other factor (e.g. you're stoned and put "quicklime" or, essentially, hydroxide [a strong base] into the soil!).

I hope this discussion explains the use of lime and helps guide people with their soil mixes

Some other questions: can you use too much lime?

Definitely. Not so much from an acid/base point of view, but we can't forget about our "spectator" ions...Mg and Ca. As the soil continues to be buffered, carbonate used up, etc., Magnesium and Calcium ions will be left in the soil. The result is a salt buildup of these ions, which can mess up the soil! Some Mg and Ca is good for the plant, but too much can be a problem.

How can I get rid of excess salt?

This question is tricky. One way is to add a complexing/chelating agent, such as EDTA, which will bind up the ions. This is hard for a normal person to come by, but it would work, and prevent "salt buildup" in a classic sense (the ions are no longer free to be absorbed by the plant, etc.). If present in the ionic form, you can wash them out of the soil, but of course in the process you will wash out nutrients, etc. The main point is that you want to use the minimum amount of lime you can get away with to prevent acidification of the soil without adding so much as to overload the system with ions. This is why watering with a neutral pH water is important... you don't want to liberate that lime you added, freeing too much Mg and Ca!

It is off of another mmj forum so if you want the link I can pm it to you so I dont piss of RIU.
 

max316420

Well-Known Member
and In that post i meant to say HAVEN'T just my fingers couldn't keep up with what I was thinkin to type lol
 

indipow82

Well-Known Member
and In that post i meant to say HAVEN'T just my fingers couldn't keep up with what I was thinkin to type lol
Could it be that the sativa is in your blood hyping your brain on these fine days?! LOL I know it makes my brain go all fuzzy and fast!
 

max316420

Well-Known Member
Well actually been smokin some bb lately and the second you hit it your high.. no buffer zone, a little strong for my taste but everybody loves her and she's a great yielder so I don't fix whats not broken lol you'd think id have a little more tolerance considering Ive been smokin weed for like 15 years.. Yikes and i'll tell ya that mk ultra is some STRONG shit too, smoked a half a joint and I was scared to drive hehe
 

indipow82

Well-Known Member
I LOVE MK ULTRA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I here ya on the whole having no tolerance thing. I have been smoking for about 18 or so years myself! Still get lit off of a little bit every day!
 

max316420

Well-Known Member
at least im not the only one lol I had a doobie of that mk and it kept me high for like 3 days.. that is one of the new strains i have in my garden, I would have to say it's probably the pretties buds I have ever seen. Very unique, tight compact nugs and a smell to die for. I did a test plant of it cause i was making sure it was gonna be a female and off one little plant I got over 2.5 z's dried.. great yeilder too.
 

max316420

Well-Known Member
yes my friend that is a magnesium def. If you want my honest opinion don't fuck with epsom salt, it only has magnesium in it and magnesium and calcium go hand in hand and from my 2 year long magnesium study lol epsom salt just isn't as effective as calmag in clearing up a def, it might do well in preventing one but once it has set in it doesn't help that much. Now as for calmag, there are alot of different companies that make it but from trying about 5-6 of the top food companies calmag's I have found that general organics calmag works the best, don't know the exact reason why but from what I have seen with my own 2 eyes it works the best.. Might be with what is chelated with or that it doesn't have any nutrients besides calcium and magnesium, all I know is it works the best. Now if you never want this to happen again then with your next crop start supplementing with the calmag with the last feeding before you flip your lights. And keep supplementing with every feeding up until around the 5th week of TRUE flowering. I have found that 1 1/2 teaspoons per gallon works great. Do that my friend and you'll never run into this problem again. P.S. that is the only product by GH I use so don't think I'm trying to sell ya on their whole nutrient line up cause I don't use them
 
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