canadian1969
Well-Known Member
The intensity of the Sun varies along with the 11-year sunspot cycle. When sunspots are numerous the solar constant is high (about 1367 W/m2); when sunspots are scarce the value is low (about 1365 W/m2).
Yet another UV thread
- Thread starter canadian1969
- Start date
iHearAll
Well-Known Member
So, you're just saying that the amounts of uvb calculated by satellites is too variable over the past decades. Based on the graph that would have shown an overlapping line if the calibration of the sensors had been the same. So, the data we are using is off by some unknown amount. I have read various scholarly articles on the thc uvb argument. And researches say there is literally a uvb reacting protein called uvr8 that is in charge thc production.
canadian1969
Well-Known Member
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/UV-...1.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.264.ZlenHW
I like, no English instructions, but meh, still cool
I like, no English instructions, but meh, still cool
canadian1969
Well-Known Member
canadian1969
Well-Known Member
So my EB panel is finally almost done, well its operational at least lol
https://imgur.com/a/U5UHp
Now I have to figure out what to put on the three 24" heatsinks that will be added and house the UVA, UVB and far red (I think people are talking 660-680nm in the morning and 730 at lights out). I haven't finished reading the "far red thread".
https://imgur.com/a/U5UHp
Now I have to figure out what to put on the three 24" heatsinks that will be added and house the UVA, UVB and far red (I think people are talking 660-680nm in the morning and 730 at lights out). I haven't finished reading the "far red thread".
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Photon Flinger
Well-Known Member
UVA works just fine, 335-380nm and doesn't hurt the eyes as badly. Plus it is cheap. 15w of led is more than enough. You want the effect not the problems.
canadian1969
Well-Known Member
How many watts of FAR/Infra Red do you guys think would be required per ever 100 watts of grow light?
I am just noticing that where UV makes up about 5% of the solar energy hitting the earths surface, IR makes up about 50%. Obviously no one is going to put an extra 50 watts of IR for every 100 watt grow light.
How much IR do LEDs output? (typically, assuming the current efficiencies we see with cobs and strips)
What would you do for 660nm and 730nm? 10%, 15%, 20% of total? (ie an extra 10, 15 or 20 watts)
Am I already way too high (lol) on the power estimates? Those initiator pucks dont seem to be particularly powerful, so maybe a little goes a long way on this end of the spectrum too.
I am just noticing that where UV makes up about 5% of the solar energy hitting the earths surface, IR makes up about 50%. Obviously no one is going to put an extra 50 watts of IR for every 100 watt grow light.
How much IR do LEDs output? (typically, assuming the current efficiencies we see with cobs and strips)
What would you do for 660nm and 730nm? 10%, 15%, 20% of total? (ie an extra 10, 15 or 20 watts)
Am I already way too high (lol) on the power estimates? Those initiator pucks dont seem to be particularly powerful, so maybe a little goes a long way on this end of the spectrum too.
I am going to use 10w 730nm and 10w 660nm in a 2x2 tent with 150w
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
You need not as much far-red indoors because it increase stretching in the most situations.
CRI80 has only half the amount of far-red as CRI90 and usually the CRI90 plants are 2-4" taller.
Far-red can also trigger SAS syndrom(SAS = shadow avoidance syndrome) which means additional stretch, less nodes and less yield. I've experienced full SAS syndrome when I put my far-red timer inadvertently on "random", LOL!
Incredible stretching with 1' nodial spacings and stems soft as from rubber was the consequence and in the end 30% loss in yield, although after a week everything was repaired and set back to the correct values. And this caused from a 10w COB, which draws only 5,5w above my 10sft.
I would only use additional far-red when I was'nt limited in heights but I am.
3.000°k/CRI80 seems to have enough far-red.
Far-red can also shorten the reproduction cycle, in part by more than a week. Here you have to consider that the plants gets less light over the time. It could be necessary to compensate this with stronger light in order to achieve the same results like under CRI80.
I've added 20w of 660nm(12 Osram Oslom SSL horti-LED's@700mA) to 145w of CXB COB(4x CXB3590@1050mA), so 7,25 : 1 white : deepred. Far-red only as EOD flower trigger for 3+3 minutes.
I notice a little more stretching, and the leaves become bigger and pray more when I turn the deepred switch on.
CRI80 has only half the amount of far-red as CRI90 and usually the CRI90 plants are 2-4" taller.
Far-red can also trigger SAS syndrom(SAS = shadow avoidance syndrome) which means additional stretch, less nodes and less yield. I've experienced full SAS syndrome when I put my far-red timer inadvertently on "random", LOL!
Incredible stretching with 1' nodial spacings and stems soft as from rubber was the consequence and in the end 30% loss in yield, although after a week everything was repaired and set back to the correct values. And this caused from a 10w COB, which draws only 5,5w above my 10sft.
I would only use additional far-red when I was'nt limited in heights but I am.
3.000°k/CRI80 seems to have enough far-red.
Far-red can also shorten the reproduction cycle, in part by more than a week. Here you have to consider that the plants gets less light over the time. It could be necessary to compensate this with stronger light in order to achieve the same results like under CRI80.
I've added 20w of 660nm(12 Osram Oslom SSL horti-LED's@700mA) to 145w of CXB COB(4x CXB3590@1050mA), so 7,25 : 1 white : deepred. Far-red only as EOD flower trigger for 3+3 minutes.
I notice a little more stretching, and the leaves become bigger and pray more when I turn the deepred switch on.
canadian1969
Well-Known Member
that sounds reasonable. I was thinking 30 watts each dimmable, but have no idea how to go about that yet. May just ultimately need a 4 output digital timer for each wavelength 280/360/660 and 730
30 watts of the reds is only $9
I was thinking,
nothing during veg
660nm at wake up 30 min @ 30 watts flowering
280nm for 15 min at mid day @ 1 watt (4x .25w diodes)
360nm for 60 to 120 min at mid day @30 watts
730nm at sleep 30 min @ 30 watts flowering
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canadian1969
Well-Known Member
Whoa!
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
If I wanted to have Far-red, then I'd rather work with CRI90 than with separate diodes.
The ratio in CRI90 LED's seems to be particularly good for plants and you'll save at best an LED string and an additional driver.
The ratio in CRI90 LED's seems to be particularly good for plants and you'll save at best an LED string and an additional driver.
canadian1969
Well-Known Member
Too late for that. Panel is already built, 5700/3000K EB (12x 560mm) strips on dual 185H-C1400B's (80 cri if I am not mistaken)
I have left three strips blank, 24"x1" extruded heatsinks to be used with the individual diodes for all the UV IR.
https://imgur.com/a/U5UHp
Photon Flinger
Well-Known Member
I going with a mixing of 80 and 90 for early flower and just using the 90 at the end. That's coming out of a 80 veg. Even with 1/6 cobs being 90 CRI the nodal stretch was evident. Didn't seem to affect yield, if anything the quality went up as it was far more sparkly and actually made it easier to harvest.
UVA does help, there was visibly more frost after the next dark cycle than normal. UVA is like the swiss army light of led in my opinion.
That is with a sativa, will try a short run indica next.
Photon Flinger
Well-Known Member
Alibaba, whatever source has them, usually just the 1/3w epistar diodes in the 310-410nm range. Like I said not much is needed or wanted.
is it? show me.
psychedelicdaddi
Well-Known Member
ebay is where the ones pictured by iHearAll came from.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-50PCS-3W-...hash=item3d0c6024df:m:mZZQn3ctcE0Ils4mzgD4Pqg
and for 310 nm, the cheapest were from here, but i dont think anyone has purchased these for testing yet. You would need 10-20 of these across a panel to get a good light spread, and THAT is pricey as fuck for just an experiement. not to mention that you only get 10mW or less on uvb diodes versus the 400-700mW that are from the modern uva.
http://www.highpowerleddiode.com/se...-light-emitting-diode-plant-growing-lamp.html
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