Yield? Pictures included

houstonblowskush

Well-Known Member
^ actually molasses does "beef" up the plant. the main reason its used is to increase the amount of sugar taken into the plant, and molasses is just sugar in liquid form
my fault
i meant to edit that....first line..if you look midway thru my comment...i says mentioned it will plump but not as much if your micro chain of life was in order
 

Kine Sensi

Well-Known Member
Well, I just went and bought some more soft white cfls. I had 4 soft white and 3 daylight in there, but now its 7 soft white bulbs. Hopefully this will help the bud grow to it's fullest. Thanks for all the input guys.
 

Kine Sensi

Well-Known Member
In that case no! You can get a 75 or 100 watt or something like that hps at home depot or lowes. Personally i would say get a bigger cabinet if possible. And try to get as much air circulation as possible. Some people overlook this critical aspect. If you decide to buy a hps/mh or whatever, go ahead and get atleast a 250 watt or later on down the road you will regret getting such a small one. But i have known people who have grown an entire plant with a home depot security light and had some pretty decent bud
Well I gotta stay kinda small and stealthy, so I can't go too big, plus it's all personal. I don't plan on selling. I've currently got 4 clones in veg under a couple cfls. I eventually want to be vegging 4 clones in the rubbermaid, and flowering 4 in the plywood cab. If I go this route, and am looking to harvest 2-3 oz off the 4 plants (2-3ft tall), you think 150w HPS would be good? I really don't plan on going any bigger, cause I'm not selling, and I'm afraid of the popos.
 

scaredspliffless

Well-Known Member
Well I gotta stay kinda small and stealthy, so I can't go too big, plus it's all personal. I don't plan on selling. I've currently got 4 clones in veg under a couple cfls. I eventually want to be vegging 4 clones in the rubbermaid, and flowering 4 in the plywood cab. If I go this route, and am looking to harvest 2-3 oz off the 4 plants (2-3ft tall), you think 150w HPS would be good? I really don't plan on going any bigger, cause I'm not selling, and I'm afraid of the popos.
If you did decide to get a 150 watt hps, try to get one that will accept a metel halide conversion bulb. Even with only a 150 watter you should still notice considerably better results than cfl's. You wont regret buying it.
 

Kine Sensi

Well-Known Member
close to an oz dried. looking good. they have at least 6 weeks.
You really think I could get an oz out of it? That would be sick! I mean, that's what I was kinda thinking, but I'm pretty inexperienced, and thought I'd ask the pros to see how much they saw.
 

Kine Sensi

Well-Known Member
If you did decide to get a 150 watt hps, try to get one that will accept a metel halide conversion bulb. Even with only a 150 watter you should still notice considerably better results than cfl's. You wont regret buying it.
So if I've got 4 plants in that cab with a 150w, how much more weight could I expect as compared to like 160w of cfls? Maybe like a percentage or just a guess man. Thanks for all the help so far.
 

Reiss

Well-Known Member
unless you get yourself a HPS, you'll be lucky to get 3/4 oz dried. Adding soft white cfl's isn't going to do your flowering much good as they are not in the correct light spectrum (red)
 

Kine Sensi

Well-Known Member
unless you get yourself a HPS, you'll be lucky to get 3/4 oz dried. Adding soft white cfl's isn't going to do your flowering much good as they are not in the correct light spectrum (red)
For real? That's all I've been using so far, and it's been aight. What bulbs do you recommend then? I used the daylights for veg, and switched to soft white for flower.
 

Reiss

Well-Known Member
soft white cant be 2700K, this is the red colour spectrum. white is usually around 6400K (i think)
Your buds may grow to look ok, but with the minimal lighting you have they will be light and fluffy and not too potent.

I used to use one of these - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/200W-ENVIROLITE-Grow-Lamp-Light-2700K-Flower-New_W0QQitemZ290264137111QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_HomeGarden_Garden_PlantsSeedsBulbs_JN?hash=item290264137111&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1686%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

which IS 2700K and it produced an redish glow. Upgraded to a 400W HPS with cooltube (£40 off ebay!) and the difference is huge!

you have any links to the lights you are using?
 

Kine Sensi

Well-Known Member
soft white cant be 2700K, this is the red colour spectrum. white is usually around 6400K (i think)
Your buds may grow to look ok, but with the minimal lighting you have they will be light and fluffy and not too potent.

I used to use one of these - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/200W-ENVIROLITE-Grow-Lamp-Light-2700K-Flower-New_W0QQitemZ290264137111QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_HomeGarden_Garden_PlantsSeedsBulbs_JN?hash=item290264137111&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1686%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

which IS 2700K and it produced an redish glow. Upgraded to a 400W HPS with cooltube (£40 off ebay!) and the difference is huge!

you have any links to the lights you are using?
I could give you a link to the nvision page but it just says soft white. Here's a chart from wiki's cfl page
color temp chart 2.jpg

The warm white are around 3000K, soft white around 2700K.
The light isn't actually white, that's just the name of the bulb. The light actually appears really yellow.
 

scaredspliffless

Well-Known Member
If you do decide to go the molasses route, contrary to popular belief, there are plant food products that contain molasses. A popular one which you will read about on this site is Flora nectar sweetener. As opposed to straight molasses this product made by General Hydroponics is a well balanced formula in my opinion. It will help ensure optimal metabolic rates occur in the flowering stage. The other ingredients have a synergistic effect when combined with the molasses. I will be using this product on my next grow as i have been reading about it a lot lately. I have used straight molasses in the past and im thinkin i may have messed up the proportion to water. To answer your previous question, you will love an hps should you make the transfer. Save all those cfls for the earlier stages of the plants life. Should you later on have more room(s) to work with you might be glad you bought them. And about drawing attention to yourself with the hps, keep your windows closed up good as the hps has a very distinctive glow. Im pretty sure you would need a lot more wattage than what we have been talking about to draw attention to yourself. Just make sure your room is not like 5000 degrees and tell nobody. Active carbon filters are nice as well.
 

Kine Sensi

Well-Known Member
If you do decide to go the molasses route, contrary to popular belief, there are plant food products that contain molasses. A popular one which you will read about on this site is Flora nectar sweetener. As opposed to straight molasses this product made by General Hydroponics is a well balanced formula in my opinion. It will help ensure optimal metabolic rates occur in the flowering stage. The other ingredients have a synergistic effect when combined with the molasses. I will be using this product on my next grow as i have been reading about it a lot lately. I have used straight molasses in the past and im thinkin i may have messed up the proportion to water. To answer your previous question, you will love an hps should you make the transfer. Save all those cfls for the earlier stages of the plants life. Should you later on have more room(s) to work with you might be glad you bought them. And about drawing attention to yourself with the hps, keep your windows closed up good as the hps has a very distinctive glow. Im pretty sure you would need a lot more wattage than what we have been talking about to draw attention to yourself. Just make sure your room is not like 5000 degrees and tell nobody. Active carbon filters are nice as well.
Hey man thanks for all of your help today. I'll keep that Flora Nectar Sweetener in mind next time I make a trip to the hydroponic shop. I just set up some cfls in my closet today for the clones, and think I'll stay with the rubbermaid for flower until summer when I have more time to put some stuff together, not to mention a job where I can afford a nicer light haha. But I think my plan will be to eventually have a small cabinet with a small HPS in it just to keep my personals stocked.
As for the molasses, don't know if this helps but I just used two tablespoons per gallon of water, and use it about every third water. It seems to be fine, but I might cut it back to every fourth water from now on just to be safe. Thanks again for all of your help.
 

mrfloaty

Well-Known Member
Are you talking about flushing it before going into flowering? Or are you talking about before 8-12 week period in flowering?

I was told you dont need to flush when you go into flowering, just start with whatever other nutes. .02 if thats what u meant :eyesmoke:

Sorry i should have been more spacific whith my infomation you are right in all you have said that you dont have to flush during any state of veg or flower unless you need to IE you have to get rid of excess nuts as the leaves are starting to look unhealthy, the only time that i flush is the last week befor harvest as this will get rid of any excess nutrients in the soil and you wont have the harsh taist that generaly comes with poor dried and cured bud, saying all that the process of drying and curing so i have read breaks down the nutrients anyway
my best advice to all is to read read read get the grow bibble by greg green best book i have ever bought and the closet grow bible ( put closet grow bible into google with pdf after and you should have the hole book in pdf format free!!!!)

hope this has been some help.....
 
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