Young Plant Problems, Please Help!!! (PICS INCLUDED)

Xenosis

Xenosis

Active Member
genovese01 said:
i also did a soil test with the new soil, i will add these to my pictures as well......im still getting a high K reading, P is about medium, and N is low..........this high K is worrying me because ive read that it can lockout alot of the secondary nutes and cause P to be high....idk this is my new obsession....i cant seem to stop analyzing shit
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you want the n to be fairly high, or at least higher than the other two. the ratio itself is important to maintain, but you also dont want to have too much of any of the three.

gfreeman said:
white powder, sounds like mold buddy. seems you have a bad case of i cant fucking leave it alone so i over fucked with it now there all dead. loll
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yeah as long as the plants basic needs are met you just gotta leave it alone and water it every couple days. i havent payed any real attention to my plants in the past few days besides a transplant and they have been booming.
 
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dxco

Active Member
NPK should be like Zero for seedlings -I would personally skip the lime & put your cups under a little humidity dome. Starting in sunlight at this time of year might also throw off the grow cycle since the days are under 12hrs now -maybe a small CFL is a 60 watt bulb at 12" is in order. -Just my two-cents... [email protected]
 
Xenosis

Xenosis

Active Member
dxco said:
NPK should be like Zero for seedlings -I would personally skip the lime & put your cups under a little humidity dome. Starting in sunlight at this time of year might also throw off the grow cycle since the days are under 12hrs now -maybe a small CFL is a 60 watt bulb at 12" is in order. -Just my two-cents... [email protected]
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its past seeding at this point but yeah i would definately get some cfls, 5 even at least until you get another light source.
 
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genovese01

Member
LET ME EXPLAIN THIS ONE THING: i do not touch my plants, fondle them, jerk off on them or any type of poking around.....all i do is move them (the pot or container) to where ever the sun is shinning best.... the only thing i do physically is take soil samples to test.....i felt that one was on it way out, I still have one of course it came from swag the other was haze, but i dont care because i just want to learn and get the science to this down.......that is another thing, I was going nuts because since i started like beginning of the summer i have had 7 or more plants die on me at the same stage and same way, symptoms etc.... and people tell you alot of conflicting stories, all are welcomed though.....i have a friend around the block who asked me how to do this and when i went to see his plant yest it was twice as big as i ever got one of mine, he was usuing the MG potting mix (it is 6month slow release)... he transplanted quickly and has great growth and color.....that just gives me more of a reason to believe the soil mix i was using in the beginnings was a big issue.....now that i have one still alive in similar soil, I am looking foward to seeing some growth after it recovers from transplant shock, if not its ok friends of mine have seeds.......I want to learn this process/science before i move onto real seeds real strains........i would like to grow one in soil and one hydro, which ideally i want to use when I have money to do so....

it has been 2 days since transplant and my one plant left is looking "ok" for now...might even see some green coming back in parts of the leaves that looked bad...gonna take some pics today...7

for the soil samples of the new soil N is medium-low, P is medium and K which I have been reading wrong! is medium as well.....ph is 6-7.....this is for the MG moister control potting mix which on the bag ratio is .21-.7-.14 same as my buddies MG soil....
 
rural hick

rural hick

Well-Known Member
i think you should slowly introduce them to direct continous sunlight. meaning a little shade during the day. they just might be having a adjust problem to direct sunlight and heat....it has been a hot summer. i dont think they was a spring this year.
 
Dan Kone

Dan Kone

Well-Known Member
All I do is germinate my seeds in a wet paper towel, plant them in little cups with holes in the bottom filled with fox farm happy frog or ocean forest. Put them under a $9 T5 I got at home depot. Then water them when the dirt gets dry. The only time a seedling ever dies on me with that system is when I forget to water. Other than that I can't even remember the last time I had a seedling die on me.

This should be a really simple process. I'm not quite sure why you're having so many issues. Sorry dude.
 
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genovese01

Member
that is what i do but the seedlings were showing symptoms in the cups about a week after germination..............it had to be my soil.......hopefully i have better luck with my new soil.....and i understand the process and its quite simple thats why i get so fuckin pissed off when the same shit was happening to me in the past.......i believe it was my medium..
 
Xenosis

Xenosis

Active Member
you need around 30k lumens worth of CFLs or equiv with t5's. lumen output should be marked on the bulbs. and you would want daylight bulbs for vegging and soft white bulbs for flowering if you get to that point and dont have a hps hid.

you wont see too much improvement in the existing leaves, but newer growth will be nice and green and the stem should bulk up.
 
cowboylogic

cowboylogic

Well-Known Member
inyourhead said:
Nute burn total nute burn flush your little soil cups out, npk shouldnt all be high n should be sufficient p and k should be a light haze... Just traces of it
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P and K are more important to plants that young than N. They are both very important in cell division and root development. Thats what you want in the first few weeks. Then mmore n and back down on the P but keep some K in the diet.
 
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genovese01

Member
will high temps and high humidity hurt a seedling and bring on these problems?

its been extremely hot here and humid, ive seen "my problem" which starts at the tips of the leaves turning to a light yellow to brownish color and then work its way into the leaf.....this has happened with every germinated seed ive germinated since begining of the summer over 7 at least....

i would germinate in paper towel soaked in distilled water, put towel into zip lock bag and put it in my draw....they would sprout in 24hrs-72hrs.
i would then fill a keg cup with soil and punch alot of holes in it, plant it, and put the cup outside in the sun.
once they break the surface they look great, ive had one this 2 weeks ago that leave's spread to the diameter of the cup in just a day....then a few days down the road i would see one leave with the "tip" problem, plant would not look as green, and growth will stop.
this has happened to me over and over since begging of the summer. the soil i was using was the peat moss mixture i talked about in the opening of this thread....half peat,quarter vermiculite,quarter perlite, and a few teaspoons of dolomite lime..

I dont know what i am doing wrong
 
Xenosis

Xenosis

Active Member
either way the new soil will fix that problem. before i transplanted, a few of the leaves started doing the same but stopped right after. 2 days after doing another transplant to the smaller plant, the upper leaves started turner darker green and shimmering. as in the new soil that the roots had grown into was reaching the plant and helped it. the previous soil i had was very low in nutes like your previous setup was. the mg is golden.

my plant recovered from and went through even more crap and its growing inches a day now and sucking up tons of water, just give it a few days, probably up to 4 before you see any real signs since its still little. you do gotta get the light thing sorted out though, it needs tons of sunlight right now to heal and use the nutes.
 
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genovese01

Member
yea I hear that.....i have a fixture in my garage that has two F40CW/RS/EW 34W T12 48 COOLWHITE 4100K....can I use those as the time being...as in a few days or so...will they work at all? i know they prob will get hot but would they help out at all for now till i get the correct lighting...

Watts:34WBase:G13 MEDIUM 2 PIN 13MM CENTER-TO-CENTERLength:48.00 Inches ---- 1219.2 Millimeters Life:20000Kelvins:4100Bulb Shape:T12CRI:62Lumens:2700
 
Xenosis

Xenosis

Active Member
yeah that should work for the time being. just put them a few inches away around the plant for higher intensity. as long as the heat doesn't radiate too heavily on the plants your good. try not to go over 85/90F.
 
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