Zeus' 1400w Canadian Basement

GypsyBush

Well-Known Member
yeah but ROT is not induced by forces..

And fungi , mold and mildew are the same thing...:lol: and is very different from rot....

As for permeable.. sure... but at what rate?

Kinda like GORETEX is breathe-able.. but in fact it is less than 4% breathe-able...:lol: but it is...
 

LoudBlunts

Well-Known Member
who said anything about rot being induced by force???? where did that come from?

secondly fungi, mold and mildew ARE NOT the same thing, if they were why would they have different names? so no they aren't the same. And im pretty sure that i know what bud rot is and that it is very different from the three ;) that seems to be borderline condescending :)

and as for your permeable question and analogy....well first thas a bad analogy......

second, permeability doesnt care what rate it happens. its apart of life. there is no such thing as a sealed shut bud. impossible.

if a sealed plastic bag is permeable.....what makes you think a bud that can crumble in the hands of man isnt?

with that said.... a dehumidifier doesnt care what percentage. if its there....it WILL suck the moisture out of anything
 

GypsyBush

Well-Known Member
who said anything about rot being induced by force???? where did that come from?
That was my bad .. it should have read outside forces... meaning external influence.. as the case with mold, that requires spores...

secondly fungi, mold and mildew ARE NOT the same thing, if they were why would they have different names? so no they aren't the same.
I suppose you could get technical.. but they are the same bro... it's all basically the same... although there are countless types... they are all basically the same thing for our purposes...

But wait... are Ganja, pot, maryjane, weed, reefer.. etc.. all different things?





http://www.restcon.com/links/articles/mold_and_mildew.html
Mold · Mildew · Fungus · Fungi





To begin, molds are a part of the Kingdom Fungi. This Kingdom is divided into yeasts, mushrooms and molds. Mildew is a type of mold.
And im pretty sure that i know what bud rot is and that it is very different from the three ;) that seems to be borderline condescending :)
Don;t be silly.. you know I have enough respect for you to not come out with anything condescending or offensive...

Sorry if I sounded like that.. but know this...

If you ever feel offended by something I say... call me up on it cause I guarantee you it was not intentional...

and as for your permeable question and analogy....well first thas a bad analogy......
Why is that?

second, permeability doesnt care what rate it happens. its apart of life. there is no such thing as a sealed shut bud. impossible.
Sure... but if a bud is airy.. it will "permeate" much faster than a solid nug...

and rot is a factor of moisture and time...

So it matters... I think... the longer it takes to dry out.. the more chance of rot...

if a sealed plastic bag is permeable.....what makes you think a bud that can crumble in the hands of man isnt?
Ok.. we can get technical again...

But I still think that a damp anything will rot, given enough time...

Sure my bud isn;t SEALED... but it might as well be if moisture takes so long to leave that it causes rot...

I guess I was using the term loosely and only for illustrative purposes

with that said.... a dehumidifier doesnt care what percentage. if its there....it WILL suck the moisture out of anything
Sure but it may take a really long time to dry out the inside of a stciky dense bud...

And just for this conversation's sake, my buds are not dry and crumbly when they are still in the plant...

They are very sticky... and as you know... our belovd trichs are not water soluble... get enough of them and you will have about the same effect as a plastic bag.. not "sealed" .. but it definitely hold moisture in...

Now...

LB... never take anything I say to you as disrespect.. never... it will never be meant that way...

Even when my leg hurts and I get short...

Nothing but respect for you ...:razz:
 

LoudBlunts

Well-Known Member
okay sorry that i got technical on you bro....and while i understand your meaning.... its just the way i was brought up...


my professor and my boss when i was interning used to reem me out grouping shit together. 3 years studying the different kingdoms and classification..... hell you'd be strong on terminology as well.... so sure molds are apart of the Kingdom Fungi. And yes Mildew is a type of Mold. And yes the Kingdom is broken down into yeasts, mushrooms and molds, yes yes yes. please dont bring back the long nights memories of being in Lab. All im saying is terminology bro. it can be confusing....remember when SoG said fim'n and topping....sure I knew what he was talking about but he confused alot of other folks. So sure they are kinda in the same group....but thas like me saying Chevys and Cadillac are the same thing cuz they are under the GM umbrella. (which would insult me cuz imma Chevy boy american muscle all day :p)

sorry for being so technical. i blame it on the years i spent researching different species of fungi and other shit (required for my intern at the time)

on the other part about airy bud vs tight dense nugs and about how rot develops and the other....i cosign with you.....i dont disagree at all

and yes you are right anything that is wet will create a supreme enviro for mold. it already has food (indoor environment) all it needs is moisture. and what i mean by indoor environment is food for mold.... i mean that molds are ubiquitous. THEY are everywhere...well of course unless you have a clean sterile environment....even then you may still find a trace of it


so with all this moisture talk and budrot talk. im very interested to see his air ventalition setup and his exactly humidity points.

last but not least....i dont even know your whole setup but i can put a few hundred on the table to bet and say a dehumidifier will cure just about all...

please prove me wrong SZ.


cuz i remember back in the day you were having high humidity problems and high temp probs...i even remember you saying you were scared to drop the humidity cuz you heard spidermites thrive in dry conditions....ayo FUCK THAT. dont be no scared bitch. dont let those fuckers ruin your grow cuz you scared to 'suit' their needs. so im anxious to see some RH numbers
 

NewGrowth

Well-Known Member
is that question relevant to the budrot?

or you just wanting to know?
Yeah it is I'm just to high to explain it again but I'll try.

I believe that the disease is systemic because environmental conditions are not favorable to mold. The rot is also starting inside the bud moving outward.
 

LoudBlunts

Well-Known Member
take a stab if ya feel like. stoned or not.

remember we all are stoned. so maybe it'll make sense.

i love to learn and listen and let the brain just wonder and explore
 

LoudBlunts

Well-Known Member
also, im leaning towards his enviro conditions only on the strength of previous problems and i didnt know what exactly he upgraded in his ventilation setup


however what could possibly represent/mimic that fuzzy mold he had and also the 'budrot' if its not budrot???
 

LoudBlunts

Well-Known Member
Wow, NG has gotten my attention on a whole 'nother viewpoint.....


*off to search what could mimic caused from shit being in the res
 

GypsyBush

Well-Known Member
From wiki...


Wikipedia said:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phytophthora_palmivora

Phytophthora palmivora causes bud-rot of palms, fruit-rot or kole-roga of coconut and arecanut.
Wikipedia said:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plant_virus

Plant viruses are viruses affecting plants. Like all other viruses, plant viruses are obligate intracellular parasites that do not have the molecular machinery to replicate without a host. Plant viruses are defined as viruses pathogenic to higher plants. While this article does not intend to list all plant viruses, it discusses some important viruses as well as their uses in plant molecular biology.

Wikipedia said:
http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Plant_pathogens_and_diseases&from=Blakeslea+trispora

This category includes economically significant plant diseases and the organisms that cause them including, fungi, bacteria, protists and viruses. For more information on plant pathology see phytopathology. For insects that transmit plant pathogens see insect vectors of plant pathogens.
 

LoudBlunts

Well-Known Member
DAMN YOU GYPSY

i was supposed to be making some damn nutes for my mothers!!!! and you just HAD TO ask my opinion cuz ya know i would go look!!!! lol


2-3 hours later fucking around on RIU and I aint got shit done!!! lol
 

LoudBlunts

Well-Known Member
SpruceZeus, does this sound familiar?


No fun fungi

Although healthy root zones and leaves often contain beneficial fungi and bacteria, other forms of fungi and bacteria are damaging to cannabis plants.

The most pervasive fungal invader is botrytis, otherwise known as gray mold. This fungus is particularly dangerous because it is virtually undetectable in early stages, and because it attacks the ripest, phattest buds from the
inside out.

Botrytis waits until cannabis flowers are dense and well developed, then it infests the buds near the core of the flower at stem level, and quickly produces gray garbage that destroys the bud's vigor and appearance. Gray mold and other pathogens can also affect harvested cannabis, even when harvested material is placed in a freezer.

Gray mold causes problems indoors and outdoors, particularly where humidity levels are above 50%, with poor aeration of plant tops. Downy mildew is almost as prevalent as gray mold, although it causes less damage and is harder to detect. It originally appears as faint whitish or yellowish spots on leaf tops, with corresponding bumps on the undersides of leaves. Leaves curl up and mutate as the mildew takes hold.

Powdery mildew is not downy mildew; it first appears as small bumps on the top of leaves; soon, the leaves look like they are covered in dusty grit. In some cases, powdery mildew can superficially resemble resin glands.
 

GypsyBush

Well-Known Member
Is this the same article...?

Here is another reference to rot...

Several species of bacteria also attack cannabis. Most of these bacteria manifest themselves as "blight" diseases that create spots on leaves, wilting, rotting, weak stems, and rapid decay of harvested material.
How to stop insects and fungi from ruining your garden.

Marijuana growers face many challenges. Among the most persistent problems they encounter are insects, diseases, fungi, viruses and bacteria that harm plants. This article will describe the most common of these problems, and prescribe preventive and corrective measures.

Some nasty buggers


The most common insects that plague marijuana indoors and outdoors are thrips, mites, whiteflies, fungus gnats, budworms, and caterpillars. Of these, mites are most prevalent in indoor grow rooms; outdoor growers generally find that leaf-eating insects like caterpillars and budworms are their most threatening insect pests.


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White Fly

Mites are tiny, mobile, hardy, and vicious. They travel from grow room to grow room on infected clones and on the bodies and clothes of people who have come in contact with mites. Mites live in nature and on dogs. Approximately 60% of BC's indoor grow rooms are infected with mites.
Mites puncture leaves and gorge themselves on plant juices. In the early stages of infestation, they produce little evidence of their presence, although they can be detected by careful examination of leaf surfaces with a magnifying glass. Look for yellow or white spots on both sides of the leaves. The spots radiate along leaf veins, and are evenly spaced.

In advanced stages, spider mite infestations are easily diagnosed, because the mites build white webbing which encapsulates plant sections.


Non-web leaf damage caused by mites can be mistakenly diagnosed as leaf spotting caused by thrips. Thrips are larger than mites with a more linear body shape. They bite leaves and create white or yellowish marks on them, but the marks are more clustered and solidly discolored than those left by mites. Thrips leave black fecal debris on leaves and in floral clusters.

Whiteflies are more easily seen than thrips or mites because they fly around plants, especially when plants are shaken by gardeners or air movement. As their name implies, whiteflies are pure white, and are about the size of the head of a pencil lead.
Whiteflies drink plant juices and leave residue on plant surfaces that provides sustenance for harmful fungi.
Fungus gnats and related species such as the crane fly infest soil and root zones. They feed on roots, which causes a decrease in plants' ability to uptake nutrients. Gnats are tiny, mobile, and dark. Crane flies resemble mosquitoes.

Budworms and caterpillars are problems primarily for outdoor growers. Budworms burrow into ripe floral clusters; they also spin webs around floral clusters, although this is infrequent. They eat floral clusters from the inside out, and their activities provide a vector for a pervasive cannabis fungal disease known as botrytis or gray mold.




Leaf infected by a mosiac virus

Leaf-eating caterpillars are less difficult to detect than budworms because they spend most of their time on leaves. They often manipulate leaves before eating them; their feeding habits include eating small sections of leaf in between leaf veins, or eating large chunks of leaf outright.



Mite


No fun fungi

Although healthy root zones and leaves often contain beneficial fungi and bacteria, other forms of fungi and bacteria are damaging to cannabis plants.

The most pervasive fungal invader is botrytis, otherwise known as gray mold. This fungus is particularly dangerous because it is virtually undetectable in early stages, and because it attacks the ripest, phattest buds from the
inside out.

Botrytis waits until cannabis flowers are dense and well developed, then it infests the buds near the core of the flower at stem level, and quickly produces gray garbage that destroys the bud's vigor and appearance. Gray mold and other pathogens can also affect harvested cannabis, even when harvested material is placed in a freezer.

Gray mold causes problems indoors and outdoors, particularly where humidity levels are above 50%, with poor aeration of plant tops. Downy mildew is almost as prevalent as gray mold, although it causes less damage and is harder to detect. It originally appears as faint whitish or yellowish spots on leaf tops, with corresponding bumps on the undersides of leaves. Leaves curl up and mutate as the mildew takes hold.

Powdery mildew is not downy mildew; it first appears as small bumps on the top of leaves; soon, the leaves look like they are covered in dusty grit. In some cases, powdery mildew can superficially resemble resin glands.

"Damping off" molds attack seeds before and after they have been planted. The molds also attack emergent seedlings and seedlings that have attained as much as six inches in height. Damping off can keep seeds from sprouting at all. Or, they kill sprouts by rotting their stems at the base.

Viruses and bacteria

Viruses affect plants, not just people, and some viruses can jump from people to plants and back again. Among the most prevalent cannabis viruses are "streak" and "mosaic" viruses that cause swirling white and yellow discolorations on leaves. The discolorations are almost artistic, but soon, the leaves wilt.

Several species of bacteria also attack cannabis. Most of these bacteria manifest themselves as "blight" diseases that create spots on leaves, wilting, rotting, weak stems, and rapid decay of harvested material.


Plant infected with mites

Insect elimination

The first line of defense against insects and other plant invaders is to prevent them from getting near plants. Indoor growers can achieve this by carefully filtering air intakes and other vectors. Outdoor growers have a harder time preventing insects from alighting on plants.

All growers should examine plants daily with a magnifying glass, looking for insects and insect damage. Grow environment sanitation is also important; growers should maintain a pristine environment: remove all plant debris, use sterilized equipment, do not bring dogs into grow areas, make sure water and water reservoirs are disinfected, do not enter a grow area in the same clothes after visiting an infected grow area.



Fungus Gnat


If spider mites establish themselves in a grow area, it is virtually impossible to get rid of them without removing all equipment and plants from the area and totally cleansing the space. Beneficial predatory mites placed on plants before spider mite infestations take hold can help defeat spider mites. Spraying mite-infested plants with organic soap-garlic-cinnamide sprays also kills mites. The use of toxic poisons on cannabis, at any stage in its growth cycle but especially during flowering, is dangerous to the consumer and unethical.
Thrips can be controlled using predatory organisms and sprays, especially sprays containing pyrethrum, nicotinic acid, organic soap, and garlic. Thrips often rely on grow medium for their reproduction, so be sure to treat grow mediums as well as plants. Whiteflies like the color yellow; one control for whiteflies is a commercially available yellow strip coated with sticky material that attracts whiteflies and then traps them.


Parasitic wasps released before whitefly infestation can keep whiteflies from taking over a grow situation. Sprays containing pyrethrum and organic gardening soap kill some whiteflies, especially when they are airborne. Whenever using sprays, be sure to spray the underside of leaves thoroughly, as this is where many pests live.



Fungus gnats thrive in overfertilized, over-watered grow mediums, especially those where organic fertilizer high in nitrogen has been used. Gnats can be killed by disturbing soil, heating soil, by predatory wasps, and by applying insecticidal soap, neem, rotenone, and garlic oil to gnat infestations.
Budworms and caterpillars can be controlled by shaking plants several times a day to dislodge the insects. Preventive sprays containing insecticidal soaps and organic toxins can be used selectively during vegetative cycle, but extreme care must be taken during floral cycle.

It is usually best to watch for the gray mold-like symptoms of budworm and remove the bud or section of bud where the worm resides, rather than to risk spraying any kind of toxin on a dense, harvest-ready bud.


Virus, bacteria and mold control tips

High humidity (over 50%) and grow environment contamination should be eliminated. Grow mediums should be sterilized and then treated with beneficial fungi (such as Trichoderma and Gliocladium) and beneficial bacteria.
Light intensity should be adequate for penetration deep into plant canopy, both vertical and horizontal. Plants should be directly in line of fans and other aeration. In-line charcoal filters and other traps should be in place on all air intakes. Strict sanitation controls should be in place for anyone who enters a grow environment.


Thrips


"Bourdeaux mixture" can be useful for controlling gray mold. A spray containing copper, Bourdeaux mixture, and a beneficial organism called Bacillus subtilis is effective against downy mildew. Spraying with bicarbonate of soda, organic horticultural oils, and sulfur can kill powdery mildew. Some growers use sulfur burners to create airborne sulfur treatment against powdery mildew. Bacteria can be controlled using Bourdeaux mixture.



Plant infected from thrips


Viruses are impossible to kill once they have infected a plant. A preventive measure to protect against viruses, other than the generic tactic of preventing them from entering grow environments, is to keep plants' immune systems healthy with proper watering, temperature, root zones, and nutrients.
If molds, fungi, viruses or bacteria take hold in a grow environment, it may be necessary to remove affected plants completely. Near-harvest buds affected by most insects, pathogens and diseases can be partially salvaged by using them to make water hash. Otherwise, all plants or plant parts affected must be immediately removed and destroyed, and any tools, clothing, or other materials that came in contact with the affected plants must be removed, sterilized or destroyed.


Please note that smoking or handling whole marijuana infected by molds, mildews, and fungi can cause serious
human health problems.​
 

LoudBlunts

Well-Known Member
SpruceZeus, do you have any silica products?

AN's Barricade?


or Dynatek Protekt silica?


i really think some silica in your nute soup will help cuz it sounds like you have some serious cooties....not the normal kind. Dare i say you have some sort of plant virus?

How many plants are affected?
 

Mammath

Well-Known Member
Now this is where spider mites would have been better lol.

Seriously though....

I'm still thinking your prob' is environment related.

Like LB asked... Was the whole table of rhinos affected? Every clone?
What position in your room do you measure your RH?
From the canopy in the table of the rhinos?

E&F set ups are like f*cking ponds and every flood emits a shit load of moisture into the room.
...and yeah, a lot of shit lives, and can live, in your pond water.
More so than other hydro set ups.

As much as this discussion on "What the hell is going on here?" is interesting and beneficial, I don't want to start sowing doom and gloom over your room just yet.

Ventilation, given your basement set up, is paramount.
I mean you really need to be moving a lot of air in and out of that cave, and around your canopies 24/7.
Crank that dehumidifier, increase air circulation and ventilation, and I would hope this problem will disappear.

But lets start with how much of the grow is affected?
 
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