Zinc deficiency?

Boston710

Boston710

Member
Hey guys, noticed this weird leaf texture about a week ago (light green between leaf veins on new growth, also very tight node spacing on new growth) thought my plant was showing signs of rootboud, so i transplanted. It started getting worse, so i looked it up and found it was a zinc deficiency from high ph.. ive been watering with 7 ph, in FFOF soil. I know its a bit high now, thats just what someone told me they do.. also I've never Fed any nutrients yet, transplanted from 1 gal to 7 gal about 5 days ago.. anyways, was just wondering if there were any ways to fix this without flushing. I don't really want to flush if it's not needed, but also want to stop it asap. I tried watering with 6.3-6.5 ph (I have to use ph tester drops until my buffer solution gets delivered) and it seems like it got a little worse over the last 12 hours. Thanks!20171130_033519.jpg 20171130_203822.jpg 20171130_203850.jpg
 
It does look like some kind of zinc lockout, do you use tap water? If so can you look up/test your water?

The transplant into fresh ffof should have taken care of it, did you up-pot into damp/moist soil?

How much have you watered that pot so far?
 
SPLFreak808 said:
It does look like some kind of zinc lockout, do you use tap water?

The transplant into fresh ffof should have taken care of it, did you up-pot into damp/moist soil?
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I water with a mixture of spring water and distilled water from the market. I just mix it to around 200ppm, the spring water is usually 300-400ppm. The last time i watered with the 6.3-6.5, i used a mixture of distilled and tap water because I ran out of spring water.. the soil was kindof moist, but not the most moist I've had. I also made sure it was fully watered before I put the plant in.
 
Boston710 said:
I water with a mixture of spring water and distilled water from the market. I just mix it to around 200ppm, the spring water is usually 300-400ppm. The last time i watered with the 6.3-6.5, i used a mixture of distilled and tap water because I ran out of spring water.. the soil was kindof moist, but not the most moist I've had. I also made sure it was fully watered before I put the plant in.
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Do you know the mineral content of the spring water? Any way to look it up?

High Ca/Fe can wreck Mn/Zn, you shouldn't have that problem in ffof unless its defective.

Try to look up the water, or better yet look up your tap water and see if you can use it.
 
I couldn't find anything on the spring water, and the report on my tap water doesn't say the fe/ca content. Here's the one i found thoughScreenshot_20171130-220524.png
 
Could it be a magnesium deficiency and maybe that's why when I watered it with a lower ph it got noticeably worse? That's kindof what I'm thinking.. might just flush them next time I water
 
probably lacking some micro nutes in your mix add those before anything else and do that when it drys back out dont flood it out its in veg it can grow and be deficient and come back no matter how long it takes its not in flower
 
Boston710 said:
Could it be a magnesium deficiency and maybe that's why when I watered it with a lower ph it got noticeably worse? That's kindof what I'm thinking.. might just flush them next time I water
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Mag def usually starts on the lower/middle of the plant.

Dolomite lime (5ml/g) is a good addition and will help ffof buffer its pH. Ffof is supposed to have it already but I've been hearing about people needing to add more lime with the newer batches.

If you are having pH problems from defective soil then this is the way to go, do a soil slurry test (look it up) to check how well your soil is buffering.



If your soil is good, and you aren't using some kind of calcium/iron heavy water then you can consider starting a nutrient schedule or boiling some zinc screws.

boiling a cup of 3/4 zinc coated screws for 15 mins then add this cup to a gallon of water for the next feed

Or

Dynagro foliage-pro is an easy one to use and will keep you running without defs.
 
SPLFreak808 said:
Mag def usually starts on the lower/middle of the plant.

Dolomite lime (5ml/g) is a good addition and will help ffof buffer its pH. Ffof is supposed to have it already but I've been hearing about people needing to add more lime with the newer batches.

If you are having pH problems from defective soil then this is the way to go, do a soil slurry test (look it up) to check how well your soil is buffering.



If your soil is good, and you aren't using some kind of calcium/iron heavy water then you can consider starting a nutrient schedule or boiling some zinc screws.

boiling a cup of 3/4 zinc coated screws for 15 mins then add this cup to a gallon of water for the next feed

Or

Dynagro foliage-pro is an easy one to use and will keep you running without defs.
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Hey so I did the slushy yesterday and my soil read 5.6. I've been feeding 7.0, not sure how it got that low but should I just add 5ml dolomite lime per gallon and feed?
 
Boston710 said:
Hey so I did the slushy yesterday and my soil read 5.6. I've been feeding 7.0, not sure how it got that low but should I just add 5ml dolomite lime per gallon and feed?
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Powdered dolomite lime, a teaspoon (5 - 10ml max) per gallon of soil, if you have a bigger pot in mind for transplant then don't forget to pre-mix the lime with soil.

If you are in your final pot then you'll just have to water it in and wait for it, dont add too much and you'll probably only need to water it in two/three times depending on pot size..

Watering/top dressing it will eventually fix the problem but it would take 2-3 weeks to see an improvement because it takes a while to spread and break down, atleast you aren't flowering.
 
SPLFreak808 said:
Powdered dolomite lime, a teaspoon (5 - 10ml max) per gallon of soil, if you have a bigger pot in mind for transplant then don't forget to pre-mix the lime with soil.

If you are in your final pot then you'll just have to water it in and wait for it, dont add too much and you'll probably only need to water it in two/three times depending on pot size..

Watering/top dressing it will eventually fix the problem but it would take 2-3 weeks to see an improvement because it takes a while to spread and break down, atleast you aren't flowering.
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Hey, so I recalibrated my meter today and did another slushy to make sure my other one was on point, and it read 6.68.. so would you recommend I just try feeding them nutes? It's getting a bit worse, starting to burn where it was light green on some leaves.
 
Boston710 said:
Hey, so I recalibrated my meter today and did another slushy to make sure my other one was on point, and it read 6.68.. so would you recommend I just try feeding them nutes? It's getting a bit worse, starting to burn where it was light green on some leaves.
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then dont feed! clean ph water
 
andy s said:
then dont feed! clean ph water
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Nute burn isn't the problem, I've never Fed them nutes. The zinc deficiency is starting to get to the point where it's burning my leaves, and I'm wondering why it's happening considering my ph is on point, and was wondering if maybe they're just hungry, and maybe a first feed would help. The whitish part on the leaf in the picture is the burn, also i have a few very small leaves towards the bottom that have gone completely yellow, shown in the second pic 15122907612511829718402.jpg1512290811131511277964.jpg
 
ok ok i see it now, id give them a dose of calmag and some micro nutes. i use a jacks 20-20-20 and it has absolutly everything in it they need micro and macro. ive had the same yellowing and brown tips form and all i fed them a low dose of that an they started greening back up. if you havent fed then id say shes getting hungry :) i tend to run into the same issues bc i dont feed for the first month clone or in veg. after one month or if theyre really getting deficient ill add a low dose then kick it up from there but i also only feed once a week when i start my feedings
 
Boston710 said:
Hey, so I recalibrated my meter today and did another slushy to make sure my other one was on point, and it read 6.68.. so would you recommend I just try feeding them nutes? It's getting a bit worse, starting to burn where it was light green on some leaves.
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at this point i would just feed, something with micros for cannabis starting at 1/4th recommend.

Jacks as andy mentioned or dynagro foliage pro ect... Something 1 part & complete to simplify everything & watch for recovery before bumping up the feed.

You could also try a foliar spray while you wait for the soil to take effect.


Make sure your pots aren't sitting on a cold floor & if you havr low humidity then make sure you dont underwater in those fabric pots.
 
So, I skimmed most of the posts, but read the ones with pics and some of the responses below...

One thing I noticed in all of your pictures, save for 1, the plant is never looking overly happy. What I mean by that is it's never really reaching for the light. Usually this is caused by overwatering. Also, overwatering can lead to multiple lockouts.

I also noticed you are mainlining and the "lower end"(stuff in the middle) has dark purple stems and super light colored. I'd guess this is an all macro lockout, again the most notable thing to cause this is overwatering.

If you aren't overwatering, I'd suggest perhaps underfeeding, but even underfed plants reach for the light more than any of your pictures.

Also, if you are underfeeding, your plants will somewhat recover withing 2-4 days of up-potting. Since you said they didn't really do this, I'm thinking you are drowning them.

*shrug* I'm a noob, but I overwatered and underfed my first grow... check out my journal for evidence of my noobness :P
 
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