It's the aluminium T-profiles, 1m long, 30x30x3mm.what heat sinks are you using?
Excellent question GG, cooling is always the hardest part. If I replace the word heatsink with radiator then perhaps it will become more familiar what is happening. The T bars form a radiator that the air can freely move through. There is nothing to obstruct the airflow like with normal heatsinks. Sort of like the difference between a breeze, or blowing through a straw. Even a little breeze going through the bars is already cooling a lot. The inverted T shape is completely exposed to the laminar airflow. The fin of the T also connects right to where it is most needed, namely the center of the COB.It's just so expensive to get a extruded multi-finned bars of the length of the canopy...then to get enough of them for the width.
I have always wondered how the simple T is working for you. I see you have the fans blowing down the lines. Do you have an idea of the jT's? Or just general thoughts on heatsinks. Your design is the closest of all the diy members to what I would want to do with my own, and heat sinks have been a weak spot in my plan.
The fans help a lot with cooling but are not strictly required. In the first few days there was an unscheduled test, thanks to Chinese QC, where the fan power stopped working. Passive cooling saved the day. I did some tests with the upgraded light and passive cooling still works well enough. The bars will get hot, about 70C, but they can handle that. Both the plants and lights will survive it. The funny thing is that the ambient temp will actually drop: All the hot air is pooling at the top instead of being circulated around, and the exhaust fan can then more easily suck it off from the top of the chamber.Yeah I agree, that's what I like about his design == simple and cost effective. Seems that active cooling is necessary though, wonder what the max wattage is per meter and maintain proper jt?
AKA the Hans option? Btw I always wondered how effective a fan can be when it can't really blow properly. Won't a little standoff improve things?No need to go for a multi-finned heatsink...aluminium panels...GO!
Yip....not as thick at the hans thoughAKA the Hans option? Btw I always wondered how effective a fan can be when it can't really blow properly. Won't a little standoff improve things?
Just try it out some distances and see what you like best.Yip....not as thick at the hans though
I have thought of 'risers'....but dont know how tall to make them...any ideas on this?
C-channel (U profile) would work great.still really digging your cab design. T profile doesn't seem to be carried by the two big hardware stores here in the states - aluminum angle and C-channel is readily available. Do you think either would as good a job as the t-profile?
I don't see the attraction here. The COBs can't be put in the center because of the airgap from the spacers. If they are staggered then you might as well use two loose profiles.Caretak3r- You could take 2 L's and bolt them together with a 5 mm spacer for even better cooling than a T.
Yes, that driver works great for 5 parallel strings of 5 Vero's each. I've used this little driver to sort the Vero's by their forward voltage. If you don't sort the Vero's beforehand nothing bad will happen but the strings will be running at different currents.Awesome set up dude. I'm about to build one of these myself. Just wondering how to mounted them to the heatsink? Also I'm gonna be using 25 vero 10 4000k. Would the mean well driver you used worked for me and give me that awesome efficiency?