Interesting thread to choose for your question(s).I want to implement something to this lighting configuration - using 18 Vero 10's arranged 3*6 or 6*3. I could power this all with one driver similar to this, but I'm nervous about thermal runaway. To avoid this I may prefer to use 3 drivers instead. This implies I can have either 3 or 6 on a string. If I go this route, how should I select my drivers? I intend individual COBs to run at 350 mA. These Vero's are the ones I'm looking at: http://www.digikey.ca/product-search/en?v=976&mpart=BXRC-40E1000-B-03
My understanding of COBs is fairly limited, but if I was working with regular power supplies (e.g. a battery), and regular LEDs, I would add up the voltage requirements when in series. This would put us at 81v if I put 3 in a single series. Using "constant current" power, does this mean that the driver will target 350 mA, and increase voltage across all 3 in series until it's satisfied? What 'spec' to I look for? It seems to be hard to fine. For example, the following is reasonably priced and seems to support the appropriate voltages at the desired draw: http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/APC-35-350/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt5PRBMPTWcafwf9UxD7OdlOvQxcoYbEiA=
Am I way off base?
Thanks for the help!
I advise organizing your question(s) so that viewers/readers can easily approach solving your problems. Sometimes numbering them helps others address issues quicker.Hmm, maybe I chose the wrong place to post this. Is there a more appropriate thread or forum? If so, I'll take this down.
Thanks guys. I've removed my post - I will post it in the appropriate forum. I wasn't even aware of that thread. I'm back on these forums after a few years, and well, things have changed Apologies.I advise organizing your question(s) so that viewers/readers can easily approach solving your problems. Sometimes numbering them helps others address issues quicker.
Yeah, I'd either post a cleaner version of the original on either/both How to Power LEDs and/or All Things Vero.
Mohi, every time that I see your avatar, I wonder what I'm looking at. Is it a seed of some sort? A dragon's eyeball? A planet on a plate? I give up .I always use Google and search for my question plus RIU. Usually sends me right to the thread I want
You can also just browse the Forums.
Looks like a ball of hash to meMohi, every time that I see your avatar, I wonder what I'm looking at. Is it a seed of some sort? A dragon's eyeball? A planet on a plate? I give up .
You guys are so far ahead of me. I never messed around with the stuff. But that may very well change one day.Looks like a ball of hash to me
MrFlux thank you very much for your patient assistance here. You're awesomeness is self-evident! I have some heat sink questions to discuss.C-channel (U profile) would work great.
I don't see the attraction here. The COBs can't be put in the center because of the airgap from the spacers. If they are staggered then you might as well use two loose profiles.
Btw you can use JB weld to glue profiles together to create larger heat sinks.
Ahhh, that makes sense. I suppose mass has a lot to do with it. I was using the analogy of a car radiator and how thin and numerous the cooling fins are, but there is still a lot of metal there too.The thicker stock would spread the heat faster, reducing the gradient from the hot spots to the cool spots. This lowers the junction temp and increases the heatsinks ability to exchange with the air at the same time. If you run your Veros very soft and spread far apart, you might be able to get away with C channel. The cheapest heatsink profile at heatsinkusa is the 2.08", great for Vero 10s and passive cooling.
Here is the cost for 5 ea. approx 1M (39") long. A $5 cut fee is not listed. Not bad at all!Ahhh, that makes sense. I suppose mass has a lot to do with it. I was using the analogy of a car radiator and how thin and numerous the cooling fins are, but there is still a lot of metal there too.
I assume there is a formula to determine heat sink efficiency, but my background is not in engineering and I didn't take calculus or physics in college...sigh...
BUT...I know basic electronics and can splice, test and solder as good as anyone. I really do appreciate the reference to the heat sink Supra, I am all about spending money for quality as long as I know I have the correct parts that are matched properly for the best efficiency. Thanks again man.