Bueno Time
Well-Known Member
Looking great MrFlux! Driver board looks nice and clean with those few meanwells on there. Awesome.
Parallel driving is not the recommended way because the results are unpredictable; It's a bit of a lottery of what Vf (forward voltage) your COBs have and hence how the current will be distributed among the COBs. The best thing (apart from not doing it) is to do you own "binning". For example if you had 8 COBs you could select 4 that are close together. Perhaps you could group the 4 lowest and the 4 highest and build two lights.That's awsome, the grow and driver setup. I was just looking at one of the hlg240's to run 4 cxa's parallel last week. 150-180w running power total.
Is there anything special you do/add extra to yours when running parallel?
It's kept kitchen clean inside so that I can the eat the leaves without worryMr Flux - this is so cool!
Just read the whole thread! That cabinet is a pristine clean room! Very simple lights. Makes me feel like I could make some my stupid self.
The Cindy is so frosty! What did you feed her?
Thanks for the help. Supra alluded to that problem when I asked him.Parallel driving is not the recommended way because the results are unpredictable; It's a bit of a lottery of what Vf (forward voltage) your COBs have and hence how the current will be distributed among the COBs. The best thing (apart from not doing it) is to do you own "binning". For example if you had 8 COBs you could select 4 that are close together. Perhaps you could group the 4 lowest and the 4 highest and build two lights.
For the Vero 10 I see a spread of about 5% between highest and lowest Vf, and this has a significant impact on the current. Perhaps someone with CXA's can measure this for the CXA?
THIS ˆˆˆˆThanks for the help. Supra alluded to that problem when I asked him.
Is there a way to use a resistor or something to regulate each string(cob in my case) to it's own needs(different Vf's)? ...in an efficient way of course. It would just be so nice to run them all on one driver.
It's the most common bio feed around here. It gives me nitrogen toxicity when using the recommended dose so I use half that dose. Not sure if my plants are getting optimum phosphor levels now.Those are some fancy Euro nutes, I don't think anyone is importing them into the U.S. I did find some on ebay, but they ship from the UK. Looks like good stuff!
A resistor would work but gives a loss of ΔV * I, typically a few percent. You could replace the resistor with something that does useful work, like a single LED. Perhaps some combinations of red (Vf ~ 2V) and blue or white (Vf ~ 3V). Doesn't make it simple thoughIs there a way to use a resistor or something to regulate each string(cob in my case) to it's own needs(different Vf's)? ...in an efficient way of course. It would just be so nice to run them all on one driver.
Yes that Kafuter stuff is too strong to be removed. I have tried regular non-thermal silicone glue ("Bison Power") and that can be removed.For the Kafuter I see "high adhesive strength, shear strength 18 kg / cm , the peel strength 6 kg / cm".
Sounds like they need to tweak their formula a bit. Good thing you spotted that. I tried varying the amount of A or B in a 2-part formula, but I think it ended up causing slight phosphorus deficiency, so I stopped after a few days. I should add, that's just for one sensitive plant I've got. Most other strains don't seem to care what I do to the mix.It's the most common bio feed around here. It gives me nitrogen toxicity when using the recommended dose so I use half that dose. Not sure if my plants are getting optimum phosphor levels now.
God i hope that wasnt 12/12 from seed....i will never enter the comp again...That is an award winning party cup plant!
Is there a way to use a resistor or something to regulate each string(cob in my case) to it's own needs(different Vf's)? ...in an efficient way of course. It would just be so nice to run them all on one driver.