CaliWorthington
Well-Known Member
Have you guys checked at any auto parts stores? Auto Zone has fine wet/dry sandpaper, beyond 1,000 grit I believe.
DiY LED - Cree CXA3070
- Thread starter SupraSPL
- Start date
captainmorgan
Well-Known Member
I got a assortment pack at my local auto parts,220/400/800/1000.
Westnewton
Active Member
Cheers and thank you all!
Lights are working very well.
Lights are working very well.
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Bueno Time
Well-Known Member
Last night I swapped the two plants on one side to the other. Since one COB is a Z4 and one is a Z2, I figured to be more fair to them all they should have nearly equal time under each, even though the difference isnt that great between the two (honestly cant tell any real difference between the two with my naked eye).
Tonight I snapped a couple pics after watering.
Day 18 12/12, they are starting bud formation fast this run
Looking pretty good, wish the canopy was full, but we'll see how this turns out with ~2/3 canopy.
Blackberry Kush x Chemmy Jones (x3) and a Pineapple Express x Cheese n Chaze (back left)
Tonight I snapped a couple pics after watering.
Day 18 12/12, they are starting bud formation fast this run
Blackberry Kush x Chemmy Jones (x3) and a Pineapple Express x Cheese n Chaze (back left)
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
I think we can attribute the anthocyanins present to the green light the CXA emits. Even under the 2700k 3050 I had a completely purple stems and buds Edit: on my Blueberry Gum. It is a wonder how the CXAs bring out the true nature of these plants
CXA3070 ex-Z4 (current-AB ) is very powerful ...
It might be as a result of photoinhibition ...
(Some plants are different than others ..)
(...) accumulation of screening compounds such as anthocyanins and rhodoxanthin can also be a light-induced protection mechanism (Weger et al. 1993; Chalker-Scott 1999; Smillie and Hetherington 1999;
Havaux et al. 2000; Steyn et al. 2002). In addition, accumulation of antioxidant molecules,
such as tocopherols, tocotrienols and vitamin b6, may be enhanced under strong light to
protect plants from photodamage and photo-oxidative stress (Havaux et al. 2000, 2005,
2009; Trebst et al. 2002; Krieger-Liszkay and Trebst 2006; Krieger-Liszkay et al. 2008;
Matringe et al. 200
.(...)http://www.helsinki.fi/fdpps/PhD theses/Sarvikas.pdf
And Beta-carotene ,which is binded with D1 protein(protein that serves as ...."glue" ..to bond photosynthetic pigments..") is increased in concentrations under high irradiances ...
(And absorbs mostly where ?.... Find out ...)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photosystem_II
A relative thread here..Please, enter ...Just for the fun of it ...
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
Beauty !!!!
To the point of ...Art !
To the point of ...Art !
foreverflyhi
Well-Known Member
How many weeks b that pruple chem?
Does it taste like the name suggest? Purple and chemy?
Ive always been hesitant on purple hybrids with fuel herbs, but that blackwater def changed my mind
Does it taste like the name suggest? Purple and chemy?
Ive always been hesitant on purple hybrids with fuel herbs, but that blackwater def changed my mind
Bueno Time
Well-Known Member
So I purchased some LEDs, heatsinks, and a driver last night. To save on cost per 24" heatsink bar I bought 4 from heatsinkusa and going to use two for the R/B string in flower and the other two for the XML veg light when I get around to building that.
Going to add two 24" Red/Blue LED bars to the flowering tent. 4 Luxeon ES M4R Royal Blue 445-450nm, 4 Cree XP-E P3 630-635nm Red, and 10 Luxeon ES EX6 Deep Red 660-760nm. Running on a fasttech 650mA driver should get just under 30W LED dissipation from the two bars.
Just ordered the parts last night so wont be all here for a couple weeks Im sure since the 630nm reds and the driver are ordered from China.
The lighting layout in the flower tent will be like this. Dark red circles are ES EX6s, lighter reds are XP-E P3s, and the blues are ES M4Rs. The COB modules can be adjusted side to side.
What do you guys think about the R/B bars? Do you like how the different nm LEDs are spaced or should I move the blues or 630s out one more space to each side and have 3 660 in the middle? I think it seems pretty good the way it is in the picture. Symmetrical and seems like it should spread the blue out pretty well that way the 630nm would be nice if they were further apart on the bars maybe to spread that wavelength out more. Maybe move the 630s to the outside of the blues and have 3 660nm in the center of each bar. In the pic its DR DR BL R DR R BL DR DR and with the 630s moved it would be DR R BL DR DR DR BL R DR. Where DR is Deep Red, BL is Blue, and R is the 630nm red.
Also wanted to say that I realized last night while looking at the girls how the Alpine 11 coolers have the fans blowing down into them and out the sides of the fins, if I rotate the COB modules/heatsinks 90 degrees the air will blow out the fins toward the front and back of the tent rather than the sides and the air flow from them will hit the R/B bars and provide some active cooling to the passively cooled R/B bars.
Going to add two 24" Red/Blue LED bars to the flowering tent. 4 Luxeon ES M4R Royal Blue 445-450nm, 4 Cree XP-E P3 630-635nm Red, and 10 Luxeon ES EX6 Deep Red 660-760nm. Running on a fasttech 650mA driver should get just under 30W LED dissipation from the two bars.
Just ordered the parts last night so wont be all here for a couple weeks Im sure since the 630nm reds and the driver are ordered from China.
The lighting layout in the flower tent will be like this. Dark red circles are ES EX6s, lighter reds are XP-E P3s, and the blues are ES M4Rs. The COB modules can be adjusted side to side.
What do you guys think about the R/B bars? Do you like how the different nm LEDs are spaced or should I move the blues or 630s out one more space to each side and have 3 660 in the middle? I think it seems pretty good the way it is in the picture. Symmetrical and seems like it should spread the blue out pretty well that way the 630nm would be nice if they were further apart on the bars maybe to spread that wavelength out more. Maybe move the 630s to the outside of the blues and have 3 660nm in the center of each bar. In the pic its DR DR BL R DR R BL DR DR and with the 630s moved it would be DR R BL DR DR DR BL R DR. Where DR is Deep Red, BL is Blue, and R is the 630nm red.
Also wanted to say that I realized last night while looking at the girls how the Alpine 11 coolers have the fans blowing down into them and out the sides of the fins, if I rotate the COB modules/heatsinks 90 degrees the air will blow out the fins toward the front and back of the tent rather than the sides and the air flow from them will hit the R/B bars and provide some active cooling to the passively cooled R/B bars.
Chronikool
Well-Known Member
Lookz really good....The COB modules can be adjusted side to side.
What do you mean by the COB modules can be adjusted side to side? Just spacing or light mover or?
Thought about adding another COB? There might be a few 'dead' spotz in the room..
captainmorgan
Well-Known Member
I would have gone 4 reds and 3 deep reds,COB probably peaks at 610.So I purchased some LEDs, heatsinks, and a driver last night. To save on cost per 24" heatsink bar I bought 4 from heatsinkusa and going to use two for the R/B string in flower and the other two for the XML veg light when I get around to building that.
Going to add two 24" Red/Blue LED bars to the flowering tent. 4 Luxeon ES M4R Royal Blue 445-450nm, 4 Cree XP-E P3 630-635nm Red, and 10 Luxeon ES EX6 Deep Red 660-760nm. Running on a fasttech 650mA driver should get just under 30W LED dissipation from the two bars.
Just ordered the parts last night so wont be all here for a couple weeks Im sure since the 630nm reds and the driver are ordered from China.
The lighting layout in the flower tent will be like this. Dark red circles are ES EX6s, lighter reds are XP-E P3s, and the blues are ES M4Rs. The COB modules can be adjusted side to side.
What do you guys think about the R/B bars? Do you like how the different nm LEDs are spaced or should I move the blues or 630s out one more space to each side and have 3 660 in the middle? I think it seems pretty good the way it is in the picture. Symmetrical and seems like it should spread the blue out pretty well that way the 630nm would be nice if they were further apart on the bars maybe to spread that wavelength out more. Maybe move the 630s to the outside of the blues and have 3 660nm in the center of each bar. In the pic its DR DR BL R DR R BL DR DR and with the 630s moved it would be DR R BL DR DR DR BL R DR. Where DR is Deep Red, BL is Blue, and R is the 630nm red.
Also wanted to say that I realized last night while looking at the girls how the Alpine 11 coolers have the fans blowing down into them and out the sides of the fins, if I rotate the COB modules/heatsinks 90 degrees the air will blow out the fins toward the front and back of the tent rather than the sides and the air flow from them will hit the R/B bars and provide some active cooling to the passively cooled R/B bars.
Bueno Time
Well-Known Member
Adjusted side to side for spacing. I have thought of adding a third COB but I think it might end up being too much heat unless I added a third COB and ran them at 900mA each instead of the two at 1400mA.
Already spent way more money than I planned to on these LED projects. Maybe in the future though.
Chronikool
Well-Known Member
Hahaha...isnt that alwayz the way...
Bueno Time
Well-Known Member
Not sure what you mean. Just 4 630 and 3 660? And what was that per bar?
It would appear that way. It pays for itself over time but is a significant expenditure initially.Hahaha...isnt that alwayz the way...
If I started over again I would do a bunch of heatsink bars with Vero 10s or similar like MrFlux did. My height limitation is horrible so I cant raise the COB up higher to cover the canopy and the multi COB bars would cover the whole canopy evenly. I think sacrificing efficiency and not using 3070s in my particular mini tent and going with lower efficiency but more quantity COBs/better light spread would be better in my situation.
Oh well live and learn, or SCROG with the screen set pretty low and flip to 12/12 early (next run?).
captainmorgan
Well-Known Member
Sorry per bar,just changing the ratio so 8-630 and 6-660 total. You can end up with too much stretch with too much 660,even in the buds. Just my opinion,some may disagree.
Bueno Time
Well-Known Member
Oh makes sense now. Yea I have never messed with LEDs other than my 2 COBs I got now. I was going to wait until after stretch to turn the bars on but still I hope they dont cause issues like you say. If they will I will probably sell the LEDs and get different ones or just make a pair of COB bars which I did think about but I thought the 450 630 660 bars would add to the spectrum and final quality of the buds.
edit: And I was also under the impression that the 3000k CXAs had a little 630 in them already which is why I went with fewer of those. And I was going to originally go with 8 LEDs per bar but decided to go with 9 to get closer to maxing out the driver. I added the extra 660 to each bar.
captainmorgan
Well-Known Member
I don't have the graph handy but most warm whites peak at 610 and drop sharply after that. I have some 20 watt all 660 floods and when the 660 ratio has been too high I've gotten bud stretch. You probably won't notice it till the buds start to get large if you have too much 660 running,just keep a eye out for it.
Bueno Time
Well-Known Member
Cool, thanks for looking out and for the info.
I could assemble the bars with a couple less LEDs (less 660s) and run them that way but would be less wattage per bar too. Or I can order some more 630s and put those on in place of some of the 660s if its going to be a potential problem.
I could build them according to my original plan and swap out some 660s for 630s if the issue arises but Id rather do it right the first time, just not sure what right is. Testing...
I can put wire connectors between some of the 660s and the neighboring LEDs, that way I can quickly disconnect the connector on either side of the 660 and swap it out quickly for a different LED without having to unsolder and solder on a different LED until I figure out what works well.
Sounds like a PITA though I would rather not deal with it if I can avoid it in the first place.