Another Cree CXA3070 DIY Thread

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
PET is going to love me for this..

you showed me a link to a $200 dollar flood light with 730nm..

BML have to 7 inch bars for $100 which they claim are osram... do you think this would be better due to having them cover more area..IE one at each end of the tent/room

Im curious as to just how much 730 is needed

HaHa

The 730s cost extra, but not outlandish.


That said the bars have 15 diodes

What to mix the 730s with for a brief blast at lights off?

What's nice is since each bar has its' own driver they are easy to run off a separate timer
 

spazatak

Well-Known Member
HaHa

The 730s cost extra, but not outlandish.


That said the bars have 15 diodes

What to mix the 730s with for a brief blast at lights off?

What's nice is since each bar has its' own driver they are easy to run off a separate timer
I was thinking about it... when you go to their site the 7 inch bars at 730nm are 99 and 12 inch at 119..

Ive been looking at the ind gro quite seriously but the pontoon is a little over priced IMO.. been looking at ways of minimising the cost of the supplemental lighting... adding some 660 during flower and 730 at lights out...

Capt.. said a 10w 730nm light will cover and 8 x 8 I think... I only need it for a 4x4 or 4x5...so would need to see how much a bar would cover...

I would like to get the 660 and 730 in the tent with whatever light I had and its between a51 and indagro ATM. All the IG grows I have seen with the pontoon look juicy and frosty and I think that added red is essential
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
I was thinking about it... when you go to their site the 7 inch bars at 730nm are 99 and 12 inch at 119..

Ive been looking at the ind gro quite seriously but the pontoon is a little over priced IMO.. been looking at ways of minimising the cost of the supplemental lighting... adding some 660 during flower and 730 at lights out...

Capt.. said a 10w 730nm light will cover and 8 x 8 I think... I only need it for a 4x4 or 4x5...so would need to see how much a bar would cover...

I would like to get the 660 and 730 in the tent with whatever light I had and its between a51 and indagro ATM. All the IG grows I have seen with the pontoon look juicy and frosty and I think that added red is essential
I don't think the bars will cover the same. . But with 730 at lights out very little light is needed. If the led's on the bars were angled in an interlaced fashion like the pontoons ,they would cover better. The pontoons are expensive because of the housing , 730 5w leds, and the boards. The 730's run off a battery that charges when the rest of the pontoon is turned on... To save money I would probably go with the flood light. With the bars I would remove lenses and add some sort of diy reflector for better coverage since they are not interlaced. Then you can use the bars fo added 660. About $400 total with 660 bars and 730 flood light.
 
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spazatak

Well-Known Member
I don't think the bars will cover the same. . But with 730 at lights out very little light is needed. If the led's on the bars were angled in an interlaced fashion like the pontoons ,they would cover better. The pontoons are expensive because of the housing , 730 leds, and the boards. The 730's run off a battery that charges when the rest of the pontoon is turned on... To save money I would probably go with the flood light. With the bars I would remove lenses and add some sort of diy reflector for better coverage since they are not interlaced.
how many 730 and 660 are on that pontoon?

I still may go the pontoon and the IG but weighing up all options before pulling the pin....

I think whatever light adding those spectrums is fantastic for final product from what I have seen so far...
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
how many 730 and 660 are on that pontoon?

I still may go the pontoon and the IG but weighing up all options before pulling the pin....

I think whatever light adding those spectrums is fantastic for final product from what I have seen so far...
there's. 9 660 5w on each bar and 3 or 4 730 5w on each bar. So 18 660 and 6 or 8 730 total. Driven soft to a little over 3w each.

I will count them when lights turn on in 11 hours to double check.
 

Bueno Time

Well-Known Member
Nice healthy branchy plants Capt. It looks like you have smart ports or root pots and plastic around the outside and foil or mylar on top of the medium, is that just to hold moisture in a little better or something?
 

captainmorgan

Well-Known Member
Nice healthy branchy plants Capt. It looks like you have smart ports or root pots and plastic around the outside and foil or mylar on top of the medium, is that just to hold moisture in a little better or something?
It's a my way of keeping a more consistent moisture level in these fabric pots from top to bottom,I leave a couple inches exposed around the bottom so they get plenty of air. They don't dry out to fast on the top and sides and my roots are in every bit of soil,live roots at the surface and coming out of the sides and bottom.
 

RedCarpetMatches

Well-Known Member
It would be kind of like starting into flower at 10/14 if you didn't use the 730nm,it makes them start faster,then the 13.5/10.5 is just to get the plant more energy intake. My Glues had lots of long pistils at the start of day 5.
I have an IG w/pontoon. I was able to sex within a week @ the 13.5/10.5 starting point. I have several sat and indy doms that don't seem to have crazy stretch (plenty of blue) or sexing issues. Just very curious on the science of beginning bloom @ 12, then raising, and lowering again. I just always thought about it like nature (slowly decreasing light).
 

Mohican

Well-Known Member
Thanks!
For sativas DJ Shorts talks about doing 11/13. That is why I wasn't sure which way you were going.
 

captainmorgan

Well-Known Member
I have an IG w/pontoon. I was able to sex within a week @ the 13.5/10.5 starting point. I have several sat and indy doms that don't seem to have crazy stretch (plenty of blue) or sexing issues. Just very curious on the science of beginning bloom @ 12, then raising, and lowering again. I just always thought about it like nature (slowly decreasing light).

Cannabis is a short day plant and the flowering is controlled by the length of darkness,the longer the dark period the higher the flowering hormone gets. Starting with 730nm at 12/12 pushes the plant into flower harder,at 12/12 without 730nm the plant thinks it's only getting 10 hrs of darkness indoors. Outdoors where the plant gets 730nm naturally,flowering usually starts at 14/10. Once flowering is well underway you increase your lights on to increase the amount of energy the plants can absorb to build flowers. Then at the end you increase the dark period to push the plants to flower harder. Your just manipulating the plants hormone levels as I understand it.
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
ledengin has a bunch of 730nm packages. I think Positivity is using their 10W package. It's worth looking into if you're looking to spend less but do more work. If you haven't seen his DIY thread, it's definitely worth reading.

how many 730 and 660 are on that pontoon?

I still may go the pontoon and the IG but weighing up all options before pulling the pin....

I think whatever light adding those spectrums is fantastic for final product from what I have seen so far...
 

Red1966

Well-Known Member
Looking forward to seeing this build! Cap if you are interested in the technical details, this setup should dissipate about 208W @ 39.3% efficient. 81.7 PAR Watts. 128 lumens/W.

If it makes everyone feel better, I buy LEDs that I don't even need and then have to think up valid uses for them. I have them on my front porch, motion lights, a dozen headlamps, over the stove and a dozen other nerdy projects :joint:

Good call bueno time, I am a big fan of flattening the heatsink, it is surprising how much efficiency you gain from a lower Tj. Last time I wet sanded with 80 grit (alot) ->180-> 320->600->1000. I can vouch for the quality of this sellers silicon carbine wet or dry kits. I highly recommend wet sanding outdoors to avoid inhaling aluminum dust.

Stack of heatsinks drying out, flattening these to 1000 grit took 3-4 hours with a palm sander.
If you want to get them FLAT, don't use a palm sander. Place the paper on a flat surface and slide the heat sink back and forth on top of it. Be sure the surface underneath is clean. Any little bit of crap under it will gouge the heat sink and/or rip the paper. Wet sanding is the way to go.
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
That's how I flatten my water stones.

I've heard of older mechanics resurfacing heads the same way while doing quick head gasket jobs. (just putting a big piece of sandpaper on a flat surface, and moving the whole head around on top)

If you want to get them FLAT, don't use a palm sander. Place the paper on a flat surface and slide the heat sink back and forth on top of it. Be sure the surface underneath is clean. Any little bit of crap under it will gouge the heat sink and/or rip the paper. Wet sanding is the way to go.
 
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