DiY LEDs - How to Power Them
- Thread starter SupraSPL
- Start date
IlovePlants
Well-Known Member
Hey SupraSPL,
You are awesome for starting this thread! I wish I had this info 2 years ago when I was trying to build my own. I guess this is kind of a reply to your first post. Damn this site has changed over the years, but with people like you on the forum it changes for the better. Keep adding to the community, this kind of information helps to spread the modernization of growing. Much praise sir.
Best wishes in your growing endeavors,
IlovePlants
You are awesome for starting this thread! I wish I had this info 2 years ago when I was trying to build my own. I guess this is kind of a reply to your first post. Damn this site has changed over the years, but with people like you on the forum it changes for the better. Keep adding to the community, this kind of information helps to spread the modernization of growing. Much praise sir.
Best wishes in your growing endeavors,
IlovePlants
Chronikool
Well-Known Member
^^^^^ good to see you back around these partz... 
A little off topic, but I just found out that my timer used for controlling my 200w 3070 panel has fucked up and the timing feature no longer works and has been giving my plants that should have been getting 12/12, 24 hours of light instead and I don't know how long it's been doing it as I very rarely enter the room during the lights off time. I bought this thing like 2 weeks ago. It is the same kind of timer that is being used on my water pump and that has been going for over a month now. Really pissed me off as I am basically starting flowering again and hopefully they wont stress too much.
The timer was certified to go up to 2400w so I don't think my light would have broken it - I am manually controlling the lights at the moment, but this is not a good long-term arrangement. Did I just get unlucky with the timer or is there something that I am overlooking? I don't want to get another timer only to find that it lasts less than 2 weeks and fucks up again. It was a cheap analogue timer (one with the pins that you push down for 15 minute increments). Any ideas?
The timer was certified to go up to 2400w so I don't think my light would have broken it - I am manually controlling the lights at the moment, but this is not a good long-term arrangement. Did I just get unlucky with the timer or is there something that I am overlooking? I don't want to get another timer only to find that it lasts less than 2 weeks and fucks up again. It was a cheap analogue timer (one with the pins that you push down for 15 minute increments). Any ideas?
epicfail
Well-Known Member
I'd suggest getting yourself a 15a outdoor digital timer that has a battery backup(they probably all do). I have two, one is going on 10 years without fail the other is 3 years old and both do their job well. Mine are similar to this, just a different brand (Noma). I never trusted those cheap timers.
GroErr
Well-Known Member
Agree, I think the higher end outdoor timers are a little better design/reliability. I have in-wall digital timers for my main flower room, they're awesome but require wiring them in direct. For my smaller cabinets/tent I use these (Woods) for the lights and they've been good so far, have had one for about 8 months, no resets or failures. I had tried some of the Noma digital timers and after 3 random resets I scrapped them, they're f'n garbage.
Chronikool
Well-Known Member
Yip i used to use these...but every single one of them fucked up...(just stopped clicking on when time was due) I replaced them with $8 digital ones (with backup) never had a problem since....
I have read that the digital ones can leak a small amount of charge during the off phase leading to the lights illuminating slightly with LED panels . This is why I am going for the analogue ones. Ill check my hardware store tomorrow to see if I can find a digital one that uses a proper relay to connect the circuit. That may be the best of both worlds......
GroErr
Well-Known Member
Funny, I've heard of this (illumination after shut-off), but have never seen/experienced it with any digital timer with a proper load rating.
medicinehuman
Well-Known Member
I have been using that type for years and have had no problems except when I bumped the pins and didn't check for awhile, they started back into Vegging. Anyway you must have just got a lemon. 40 years ago caught my parents house on fire with one. I think it was that clothe wraped wire, bummer
Fiveleafsleft
Well-Known Member
Another noob question..
I'm tempted to use the mean well HLG-185 drivers for my 8 cobs. The high voltage scares me a bit.. but so efficient and also relatively cheap.
I'd like to dim them and understand that you need a 100k resistance plus a knob. This is a bit complicated for a noob like me.. I see that some of the models come with an internal potentiometer, does this mean that you there is a dimmer built into the driver? really wish it's that simple..
I'm tempted to use the mean well HLG-185 drivers for my 8 cobs. The high voltage scares me a bit.. but so efficient and also relatively cheap.
I'd like to dim them and understand that you need a 100k resistance plus a knob. This is a bit complicated for a noob like me.. I see that some of the models come with an internal potentiometer, does this mean that you there is a dimmer built into the driver? really wish it's that simple..
Fiveleafsleft
Well-Known Member
Scotch089
Well-Known Member
I guess idk what you mean? I got the HLG-185-C700A in the spreadsheet the drivers are defined with what options you have with A, B, or D. I think A was the built in dimmer (comes with wires so you'll have to take those off if you're not using a knob)
http://www.meanwell.com/search/HLG-185H-C/HLG-185H-C-spec.pdf
http://www.meanwell.com/search/HLG-185H-C/HLG-185H-C-spec.pdf
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
Yep the "A" version has a the internal dimming pot.
There are steps you can take to protect yourself around the high voltage. Double layers of heatshrink tubing. You can cover all exposed copper and solder points with dabs of silicon and put kapton over that so the silicon cant get knocked off. Also you can ground your heatsinks so if voltage ever finds its way to the sinks the driver will shut the circuit down. You can also use a GFCI on that AC circuit.
There are steps you can take to protect yourself around the high voltage. Double layers of heatshrink tubing. You can cover all exposed copper and solder points with dabs of silicon and put kapton over that so the silicon cant get knocked off. Also you can ground your heatsinks so if voltage ever finds its way to the sinks the driver will shut the circuit down. You can also use a GFCI on that AC circuit.
Fiveleafsleft
Well-Known Member
Fiveleafsleft
Well-Known Member
This is one of few replies that maybe actually saved my life. Really good that you are sharing this info to me and others on this forum!
Fiveleafsleft
Well-Known Member
I'll buy two of those!
If there is someone who wants to drive several cobs without dealing with the high voltage, this could be a good option:
http://www.inventronics-co.com/upload/EUC-144QxxxDT(ST)_2014022709293931211.PDF
If there is someone who wants to drive several cobs without dealing with the high voltage, this could be a good option:
http://www.inventronics-co.com/upload/EUC-144QxxxDT(ST)_2014022709293931211.PDF
Positivity
Well-Known Member
Covering the solder points is a good idea..need to look into the different options. Think they have paste, spray, etc..
I took a little zap from my light when I was working on it and putting it up and down. Must have touched the solder points and I was a bit sweaty. Wasn't really much..actually took me a second to realize what it was. Was my first shock..so low voltage probably wouldn't have done that. Careful..
I took a little zap from my light when I was working on it and putting it up and down. Must have touched the solder points and I was a bit sweaty. Wasn't really much..actually took me a second to realize what it was. Was my first shock..so low voltage probably wouldn't have done that. Careful..