Agree, I think the higher end outdoor timers are a little better design/reliability. I have in-wall digital timers for my main flower room, they're awesome but require wiring them in direct. For my smaller cabinets/tent I use these (Woods) for the lights and they've been good so far, have had one for about 8 months, no resets or failures. I had tried some of the Noma digital timers and after 3 random resets I scrapped them, they're f'n garbage.I'd suggest getting yourself a 15a outdoor digital timer that has a battery backup(they probably all do). I have two, one is going on 10 years without fail the other is 3 years old and both do their job well. Mine are similar to this, just a different brand (Noma). I never trusted those cheap timers.
Yip i used to use these...but every single one of them fucked up...(just stopped clicking on when time was due) I replaced them with $8 digital ones (with backup) never had a problem since....It was a cheap analogue timer (one with the pins that you push down for 15 minute increments). Any ideas?
I have read that the digital ones can leak a small amount of charge during the off phase leading to the lights illuminating slightly with LED panels . This is why I am going for the analogue ones. Ill check my hardware store tomorrow to see if I can find a digital one that uses a proper relay to connect the circuit. That may be the best of both worlds......Yip i used to use these...but every single one of them fucked up...(just stopped clicking on when time was due) I replaced them with $8 digital ones (with backup) never had a problem since....
Funny, I've heard of this (illumination after shut-off), but have never seen/experienced it with any digital timer with a proper load rating.I have read that the digital ones can leak a small amount of charge during the off phase leading to the lights illuminating slightly with LED panels . This is why I am going for the analogue ones. Ill check my hardware store tomorrow to see if I can find a digital one that uses a proper relay to connect the circuit. That may be the best of both worlds......
I have been using that type for years and have had no problems except when I bumped the pins and didn't check for awhile, they started back into Vegging. Anyway you must have just got a lemon. 40 years ago caught my parents house on fire with one. I think it was that clothe wraped wire, bummerA little off topic, but I just found out that my timer used for controlling my 200w 3070 panel has fucked up and the timing feature no longer works and has been giving my plants that should have been getting 12/12, 24 hours of light instead and I don't know how long it's been doing it as I very rarely enter the room during the lights off time. I bought this thing like 2 weeks ago. It is the same kind of timer that is being used on my water pump and that has been going for over a month now. Really pissed me off as I am basically starting flowering again and hopefully they wont stress too much.
The timer was certified to go up to 2400w so I don't think my light would have broken it - I am manually controlling the lights at the moment, but this is not a good long-term arrangement. Did I just get unlucky with the timer or is there something that I am overlooking? I don't want to get another timer only to find that it lasts less than 2 weeks and fucks up again. It was a cheap analogue timer (one with the pins that you push down for 15 minute increments). Any ideas?
Wow, that was fast! Thanks a lot Scotch!^^yup just use a screwdriver
I guess idk what you mean? I got the HLG-185-C700A in the spreadsheet the drivers are defined with what options you have with A, B, or D. I think A was the built in dimmer (comes with wires so you'll have to take those off if you're not using a knob)
OK, what you're saying makes sense! there is an [A] after the statement. The D model seems cool.. Can be dimmed through a timer..
OK i will copy your driver setup (but skip the knob-yhing)! Why did you choose to use resistance and knob? A knob is neat, but is that the only reason?
Do you feel calm working with the high voltage by the way?
This is one of few replies that maybe actually saved my life. Really good that you are sharing this info to me and others on this forum!Yep the "A" version has a the internal dimming pot.
There are steps you can take to protect yourself around the high voltage. Double layers of heatshrink tubing. You can cover all exposed copper and solder points with dabs of silicon and put kapton over that so the silicon cant get knocked off. Also you can ground your heatsinks so if voltage ever finds its way to the sinks the driver will shut the circuit down. You can also use a GFCI on that AC circuit.