jcommerce
Well-Known Member
Great recipe for stem rot.
DWC Root Slime Cure aka How to Breed Beneficial Microbes
- Thread starter Heisenberg
- Start date
BenFranklin
Well-Known Member
Not with hydro... You don't get stem rot with hydro.... Unless you're doing something REALLY stupid.... The whole "highly oxygenated water" and cooler temperatures part helps eliminates root rot, which would also eliminate chances for stem rot...
If you think this is a recipe for stem rot, then how the ferk do you think things grow in Aeroponics?
Stem rot occurs when unoxygenated stagnant moisture stays in constant contact with the apical meristem.
(For those that don't know, apical meristem is the main stem.)
On top of that, the stems of pot plants, in dwc, sit ABOVE the water line in their net pots, in fact in my system the stem line is slightly above the top of the bucket... So no chance of stem rot, because water is NEVER in contact with the stem, EVER. You can't fill the bucket to the top anyway as displacement will push excessive water out. Not to mention the flood you will get when you turn the air on as the excess water bubbles out of the top of the net pot... Which I've done on several occasions over my 30+ years growing and NEVER got root rot.
On top of that, the main portion of the rootball, is where root rot occurs in DWC, if done right, the main portion of the rootball should be growing beneath the net pot, and be completely submerged in vigorously aerated water.
Between the bottom of the net pot, and the water level, is where root rot is likely to occur, as highly moist air and higher temps in that little air chamber will promote root rot when even the smallest amount of light is added. To prevent this, fill the water up in the bucket, so that it eliminates that chamber.
@jcommerce ; I am sure you have the best grow out there, for you. However, your way is not the only way, there are many people with decades of experience both in growing marijuana and other more legal operations that are full of sound advice, most of which you would probably claim would not be the way YOU would do things, and well, thats what works for YOU. Now have a nice day, doing, whatever it is you do.
If you think this is a recipe for stem rot, then how the ferk do you think things grow in Aeroponics?
Stem rot occurs when unoxygenated stagnant moisture stays in constant contact with the apical meristem.
(For those that don't know, apical meristem is the main stem.)
On top of that, the stems of pot plants, in dwc, sit ABOVE the water line in their net pots, in fact in my system the stem line is slightly above the top of the bucket... So no chance of stem rot, because water is NEVER in contact with the stem, EVER. You can't fill the bucket to the top anyway as displacement will push excessive water out. Not to mention the flood you will get when you turn the air on as the excess water bubbles out of the top of the net pot... Which I've done on several occasions over my 30+ years growing and NEVER got root rot.
On top of that, the main portion of the rootball, is where root rot occurs in DWC, if done right, the main portion of the rootball should be growing beneath the net pot, and be completely submerged in vigorously aerated water.
Between the bottom of the net pot, and the water level, is where root rot is likely to occur, as highly moist air and higher temps in that little air chamber will promote root rot when even the smallest amount of light is added. To prevent this, fill the water up in the bucket, so that it eliminates that chamber.
@jcommerce ; I am sure you have the best grow out there, for you. However, your way is not the only way, there are many people with decades of experience both in growing marijuana and other more legal operations that are full of sound advice, most of which you would probably claim would not be the way YOU would do things, and well, thats what works for YOU. Now have a nice day, doing, whatever it is you do.
Last edited:
Mr Crew
New Member
Hi and thank you for your information. I believe, myself included in the past, that people coming here are in need of help, and the information you're giving out, like you said, one man's individual experience, i.e. Yours. I don't believe to be true, also if I may, bring too your attention these two statements you made.
(On top of that, the main portion of the rootball, is where root rot occurs)
And then only three lines below that you say.
(Between the bottom of the net pot, and the water level, is where root rot is likely to occur)
These are two conflicting statements, in the same post, so I don't believe anyone should take any of your advice, as you are unsure yourself.
You also come across quite aggressive, specially if you're only giving your opinion, or a suggestion.
Please don't think I'm saying this for any other reason then, the people in need of help that come here and spend three days looking through this, only need to read about Heisenberg's tea, success or not.
Something else that caught my attention, again your statement.
(Which I've done on several occasions over my 30+ years growing and NEVER got root rot)
This has left me wondering how you found this post.
However I do not request an answer for any of these, for the same reason, that is clogging up the fred.
Thanks Mr Crew
BenFranklin
Well-Known Member
There is nothing contradictory about a space being between the bottom of the net pot and the water line, there is always a space between the net pot and the SIDE of the bucket unless you have the bucket filled to the top 24/7, this space ALSO gets VERY warm. As evaporation occurs, this space, or stagnant hot air pocket, gets larger, leaving the top portion of the root ball exposed to this hotter, moist, air.
Unless you're in 70+ degree water and are not aerating the water vigorously enough, then root rot will occur below the water line, however, in MANY and most cases, root rot will occur above the water line because there is not enough water to be able to cool that chamber given the heat of the lights that the chamber absorbs.
Apparently you don't understand how big a root ball gets, I use 5 gallon buckets, my root ball fills about 2/3rds of the bucket, to just below the net pot, If you know anything about marijuana you'll know that it sends down a tap root about 6-8 inches, the main portion of the rootball is NOT in the net pot.
A little bit of experience would tell you this. I would also suggest you look up the very definition of "Root Rot", there is even a Wikipedia explanation for it, it says:
"Root rot can occur in hydroponic applications, if the water is not properly aerated. This is usually accomplished by use of an air pump, air stones, air diffusers and by adjustment of the frequency and length of watering cycles where applicable. Hydroponic air pumps function in much the same way as aquarium pumps, which are used for the same purpose. Root rot and other problems associated with poor water aeration were principal reasons for the development of aeroponics."
So, now, not only do you have myself and my 30 years experience, but, you have literally millions of others experience at your finger tips. Instead of trying to denigrate my experience and expertise, maybe you should understand what you're talking about to begin with.
I am not even going to comment on the "aggressiveness" of my response given the ignorance of the comment that I responded to, as this is just a further effort to troll.
Not to mention the whole idea that I'm supposed to believe that you've been following this post for 4 month and are a "new member"..
Good day to you.
Unless you're in 70+ degree water and are not aerating the water vigorously enough, then root rot will occur below the water line, however, in MANY and most cases, root rot will occur above the water line because there is not enough water to be able to cool that chamber given the heat of the lights that the chamber absorbs.
Apparently you don't understand how big a root ball gets, I use 5 gallon buckets, my root ball fills about 2/3rds of the bucket, to just below the net pot, If you know anything about marijuana you'll know that it sends down a tap root about 6-8 inches, the main portion of the rootball is NOT in the net pot.
A little bit of experience would tell you this. I would also suggest you look up the very definition of "Root Rot", there is even a Wikipedia explanation for it, it says:
"Root rot can occur in hydroponic applications, if the water is not properly aerated. This is usually accomplished by use of an air pump, air stones, air diffusers and by adjustment of the frequency and length of watering cycles where applicable. Hydroponic air pumps function in much the same way as aquarium pumps, which are used for the same purpose. Root rot and other problems associated with poor water aeration were principal reasons for the development of aeroponics."
So, now, not only do you have myself and my 30 years experience, but, you have literally millions of others experience at your finger tips. Instead of trying to denigrate my experience and expertise, maybe you should understand what you're talking about to begin with.
I am not even going to comment on the "aggressiveness" of my response given the ignorance of the comment that I responded to, as this is just a further effort to troll.
Not to mention the whole idea that I'm supposed to believe that you've been following this post for 4 month and are a "new member"..
Good day to you.
Last edited:
Commander Strax
Well-Known Member
so after a fight I thought I would never win, I assumed I had the slime problem licked but today I felt some sliminess on the sides of my DWC, is that normal or am I on my way back into battle?
Last edited:
duudical
Well-Known Member
Definitely dig this approach Scroga...I have been doing this in veg for a couple of months and have seen some great results and no real slime issues.
In flower I switch to DM Gold Zone + Z7 Water Conditioner...no slime issues. Only reason I don't continue the microbes in flower is because at that point I am mostly just wanting the roots already established to stay healthy and don't want to risk some out of control bacterial issue that will set a plant back or stress it out and cause it to not reach it's potential. In veg though, I add microbes to all my plants once per week - usually a day or two before res. changes for the DWC plants. Let them do their thing and then give them fresh bucket the next day or so.
Scroga
Well-Known Member
With the microbe population there in flower there's no chance of anything else moving in, it also allows you to throw various organic products in the mix without fear... but I find it better cheaper safer to do it threw the tea bucket, also the benefit of molasses
I believe it expresses better terp oil production, lessens the need for cal mag ... p.s. I also sprinkle a lil pondzyme occasionally... another cost effective product... in flower roots don't always look pearly white using the organic semi organic method but you just have to trust in your micro herd
I believe it expresses better terp oil production, lessens the need for cal mag ... p.s. I also sprinkle a lil pondzyme occasionally... another cost effective product... in flower roots don't always look pearly white using the organic semi organic method but you just have to trust in your micro herd
Last edited:
Rocky Lemons
New Member
running a dwc an eroponics . dwc had horriable brown slime on roots an almost bubbles foam on top of water . brewed tea and cleaned in right up thanks !!!!!!!!!!!
Rocky Lemons
New Member
can anyone suggest a good cheap inline fan for heat exhaust ? ??????????? pls help
I have been fighting the slime and the brown roots and the tea does not work...and it definitely is not a cure because root rot is systemic...the beneficial microbes do help with keeping the plant alive but if you really do have Pythium root rot which I do not think most people commenting on this tea has because if they did they would notice that it does not work....maybe they have or had some other kind of fungus or pathogen ...the tea is just displacing some of the pathogen/fungus it is not curing it and it is always in there once you contract it unless you kill it off by oxidizing it with something like bleach or h202 if it even touches any of the pathogen / found it will be taken up systemically and pass it on to any other plants that are sharing water with it
yeah the plant is supposed to grow so fast that the pathogen does not reach the tips of the plant . so if you clone from the tip of the plant it is not supposed to have the pathogen in it ....but I have not had any luck with that ...I bleach everything with a strong bleaching solution pH at 6.0 (that's where bleach is the strongest)and I also put things in the dishwasher ...but I have had no luck with the bennies so next time moving onto a sterile grow and I'm also going to try and do a grow with collidal silver which is supposed to suffocate any pathogens in the water and systemic within the plant..
duudical
Well-Known Member
For more serious scenarios such as true pythium colonization, etc. is Dutch Master Zone. I use Z7 water conditioner to deal with inanimate slime and other issues in conjunction with tea. But if you have serious issues, you do need to take some serious steps.
I don't really have any hard core issue right now...the beneficial bacteria does help with keeping the plants alive and it actually keeps the clear snot off of the roots but the roots still turn brown ...the roots are growing so fast that the brown cannot keep up with the roots until you moved into flower and then about 2 weeks into flowers the plants really stall ...so the plants grow really fast and healthy but I think I am getting a diminishing return when it comes to harvesting because of the pathogen in the plant ... I have been growing for along time and I am very good at what I do but this pathogen is really holding me back ...this is the first time I have ever had to try to find help for my problem ...I have done anything and everything that you can find on the internet too help with root rot but so far nothing works.. of course water temperature is in check and well aerated ...starting to think the only thing I'm going to be able to do is replace all equipment and that would be extremely expensive... I'm getting ready to start a whole new set of seeds. I'm going to go with a sterile grow this time and see how that go's. I am also wanting to try out the silver ...I have a big bottle of colloidal shield (silver)...I think I might also pick up the Dutch masters zone and see how that goes it is just chlorine also but maybe they have a way of keeping it from dissipating once it's added to nutrients ...I know the clear Res from the EZ cloner stuff works I've used it before but it's expensive and it is also just chlorine but when I was using it I never tested to see if it dissipated immediately after nutrients was added because in my cloner I just use pure water ..
Scroga
Well-Known Member
My turning corner/salvation moment happened when I started using h &g. roots excel as an inoculant at the start of the grow... once good micro herd is established they take the fight (and win) to any nasties... with this and teas I haven't had a prob since... and I had it bad...
Or
You could try Fongarid
as a nuclear approach...
Or
You could try Fongarid
as a nuclear approach...
Scroga
Well-Known Member
What we're the first 2?Hey have any Australians here got any tips for different products I could use instead of the first two ?
I use general hydroponics rapid start .. but those products are just keeping the roots growing faster than the disease can keep up with ....but maybe roots elevator has some extra ingredients....I'm thinking right now i want to do a few sterile grows that way it will clean everything thoroughly since I will be putting everything in a sterile solution (they will be sitting in a sterile solution for months not days like you would normally do when you nucke your whole setup)... then maybe after few cycles I will switch back to a normal grow aka with beneficials ...maybe depending on how good the sterile grow go's...I've never had to do a full sterile growth before but I do know that it works good and it is much cheaper...I'm thinking I'll try and use one of the sterilizing agents made for hydroponics since the bleach thing is not working out but they are expensive so I'd rather figure out the bleach/chlorine thing ....I have some other plants sitting in some nutrient solution that I added bleach to even though my test strips say there is no more Bleach left in the nutrients just to see if it still has an effect .....